Author: David Taylor

           I’m on the  VIP bus and have my computer plugged in but no internet connection. I did want to email Kay and Nora about subletting their apartment in June if possible.  Meanwhile I’m so much more comfortable on this bus with plenty of leg room.  My seat is wide and has a “lounge like support for your legs so that when you recline the back, it is almost like a bed.  I have an entertainment center with remote and headphones for video or musical entertainment with my own private screen built into the seat in front. There are 8 categories of movies and 9-13 movies in each category.
       They also offer complimentary beverage when you board.  When I return in June I’m applying for Senior Pass card that will allow me to travel  anywhere this bus line goes for 1/2 price.
That would save me a lot.  I can go to San Miguel Allende, Compeche, Merida, Cancun, Porto Escondido, etc and I will.  When I get settled in, there is a network of Gringos that exchange places…I go to your apartment in San Miguel and you come to mine in Oaxaca.  Half price transport and free place to stay…I can see a lot of Mexico and save enough to travel to South  and Central America…as well as anywhere in the Caribbean. Well I think I’ll watch a movie..whoops, I don’t speak or read Spanish.
    I took a nap a read a lot.  I started Dracula a long time ago and never finished it.  I started it again and hopefully will finish it this time.

    We pulled into Tapo Bus station around 8:30 p.m.  It was dark and dreary. A taxi driver accosted me as I was exiting the terminal.  I was trying to be cautious of pirate taxis but he had a badge so I followed him to the taxi. Normal looking but a little run down. He told me it would be 180 pesos to the hotel.  I balked and was going to offer 120 when I remembered paying 140 when I took a cab to get to the station and that was daylight.  I agreed and we started down back streets with no one but garbage pickers looking for dinner.  The streets were empty as was the businesses. It looked like a warehouse district all boarded up.  I was getting nervous and asked if this was the way to the Zocalo. He assured me it was a shortcut away from the traffic.  15 minutes later we approached the Zocalo and after going around a few one way street we arrived at the Canada.

          My room was ready and about 400 pesos less for the three nights than I remember being quoted.  The room was pleasant enough with a lightening internet connection in the room and a safe to store the computer, passport, tickets and money in.  Breakfast came with the deal.  I ran next door and brought a hamburg and fries up for an evening snack.  Midnight came and I retired.
         They offered me a breakfast menu on the roof top dining room. I had and American breakfast then  stopped at Starbucks for a Latte and to read a little news of the Oscars. I headed for the Mexico Museum of Art and spent the morning taking in the place.  I walked about a bit before returning to my room to relax and edit the photos I just took.  I did get Kay to sublet her studio in June and wrote a note to her landlady of my intentions to lease Gabriel’s studio if she was OK with that. He doesn’t leave until Fall I believe.

Sidewalk Painting

Goat Skulls

Watch the Dog eat the Man

Where do I sign?

        I decided to get some exercise and walked to the Zocalo where the Military was putting on a show for the children in hopes when they grew up they would become Federalies like them. I thought we were bad to have ROTC in college and recruiters in High School.  These kids, male and females were enjoying the whole day.  Parents too.
       I had some lousy Spaghetti Italiano and a glass of wine with an Ice Cream on the way home.
The Hotel TV has cable but no English speaking stations. I can access local Phoenix news on the computer and play some poker before retiring.

    Today is my last full day in Oaxaca.  I leave tomorrow on the 2:30 p.m.. VIP bus to Topo Bus Station in Mexico City then a taxi to my room at the Canada Hotel close to the Zocalo for three days.
     Paul and I went out to eat last night.  I had wanted to try the Crespa…a restaurant and cooking school.  They have a roof top dining where we ate.  I tried to get a photo of another procession with a band from above but missed it.   We had some appetizers and a glass of terrible warm wine they headed for Biznaga to have another glass of real wine.  Paul had been there before after dark and said he couldn’t see to read the menu…it is in an open courtyard and at night it is barely lit. Tonight was a full moon and a graduation. We returned and he retired to be refreshed for an all day tour.

     This morning a group of Honored Citizens did the 5 K run in Llano Park before returning for Juanita’s Tamales with Hot Chocolate. I should go for a walk. Saw the Sunday Zumba crowd, a choir by the church, kids playing soccer, and a karate class.  Missed the 33 piece band at the Zocalo.

        I walked over to get my Latte fix after breakfast and noticed another fiesta at the church nearby.  Mass was going on so I stepped into a full church.  It was around 10 am and tents were being put up in the courtyard.  I made a note to return later.
    Kay , true to her work, called Yuko and when I went to check my email Yuko was there awaiting my questions.  I emailed my list to her and thanked Kay.  I posted my blog and am off to see Gabriel’s studio with Kay.

      It was nice and I will take it when he moves to San Sebastian Spain.  His brother is in Princeton.  He is very classy and intelligent young man.  The studio was basic but had the internet connection, refrigerator, microwave and 2 burner gas hot plate.  It is within walking distance of the Centro area of Oaxaca.  Now how to pay for all this???  I tried honing my Poker skills but to no avail…I just don’t know when to Fold!
    I walked back to the church but no food stalls so returned to Mariposa to eat my leftovers.

    Kay contacted Gabriel and left a message when I woke that I could see the “Oaxaca” Studio Saturday at 1 p.m.  I wanted to visit my St Augustine place today and take photos so studied the bus routes over coffee but really not sure.  I have to just do it but I’m tired.  I just finished my “healthy” breakfast so maybe I could work it off.  I’ll start with a trip to the Mercado for some things to pack for the return trip.  Teresa allowed me one bag to leave at Mariposa so I can travel light on the way back.

      I was close to the Zocalo so walked down and bought some gifts to take home then walked over to the Crespa Bus line that takes me toward St Augustine.  I jumped on and took it up to my area then exited and walked around the area taking photos.  This was new territory for me and had I continued on I would have had to take a transfer later to get to St Augustine.  I was tired and headed for home.  Kay and I bumped into each other and confirmed our meeting tomorrow.  I did tell her I took the other place but was considering both.  She said we could work together and sublet one for the other.  She really wanted her grandchildren to stay in mine because it was next to her.  She also has friends that would like living in the country if I was staying in town.  She was on her way to a massage but agreed to call Yuko for me and try and get her email so I could forward my questions without having to bother going out there and scheduling another meeting with them.  I returned and emailed Kay the info then took a nap after going to a grand opening of a supermarket to get some water….I got lunch , some Tang and free candy all for the price of a bottle of water .50 cents.

      A quick Siesta then I invited Colin to join me for dinner at Biznaga but he had other plans.  I was passing the Santa Domingo Church when I ran into a large crowd, and a procession with police all around.  It was a Major Wedding of some prominent couple.  There were over 500 people, fireworks , a parade, band, dancers. and a long procession of people from all over Oaxaca all dressed in their finery. I took some photos. John the writer was at Biznaga when I arrive with the same lady he was with yesterday.  I didn’t bother him this time. I had my wine and a Filet Mignon stuffed with Goat Cheese and served with Rice and roasted Peanuts in a Red Mole Sauce. It was another winner.  The wedding was still going on and outside there were rows of tables with photos of all the couples that attended for souvenirs.

     It was almost a full moon and a cool breeze with lovers, children, families, Mennonites, musicians, vendors, hawkers, singers, strollers, Mormons, Indians, Mexicans, beggars,tourists from all over the world, just a very vibrant eclectic fun place to be.
     Shortly after I returned I was relaxing in my room and I heard a knock.  I hurried to put on my pants saying I’m coming…and I opened the door to no one.  It was the beginning of the fireworks…the wedding was over.  Oaxaca…so fine.

     The driver picked me up after breakfast and drove me to a drop off point where I boarded a Mini Van with a German couple and their sister all living in Toronto.  There was another Frenchman that lived in Geneva and spoke fluent English, Spanish and French.  The rest of the group were from Mexico.  Our driver and guide, Moses, had worked in Restaurants in Tempe Arizona and was also fluent in English, French and of course Spanish.

    Moses took us to the world’s largest (diameter) tree.  A 2000 year old Cypress tree that humbled us all.  He explained there are trees older 4000-6000 years…but not in Mexico.
    We moved on to a Zapotec village that specialized in woven tapestries, rugs, purses, etc. Our host, the owner, explained they bring the raw wool from Spain, spin it into string, twine, thread , then dye it with pomegranate, cacti, acacia, turmeric, marigolds, etc…quite fascinating. They “fix” the dye with salt and vinegar.  The women do the preparation of the wool and thread but the men do the dying and weaving.

   Moses took us to “Happy Hour” at a Mescal factory across the way where we watched to Agave Cacti harvested, then roasted in a kiln, boiled and shredded, pulverized and fermented to the final product that may or may not be aged in barrels for up to 8 years or more.  We drank lots of samples and I bought a bottle.
     We moved on to Mitla.  A village dating to 600 AD that was both Mexteo and Zapotec tribes. The temples were well preserved and the village still thrived today.

     Moses drove us to a restaurant where after lunch, the group split for the second half of the tour. Some went back home while the rest of us went on to Hierve El Aqua in San Isidro Roaguia Park.

     The drive was long winding mountain roads that reminded me of Jerome Arizona except steeper and much higher.  We rose to over 8500 feet altitude and ended up on 10 miles of rough dirt road through very poverty stricken villages to the entrance of the park.  We had to climb down to the waterfalls.  It had lots of calcium, limestone, sulfur that formed into a stalagmite formation as it flowed over the edge of the cliff.  The Frenchman wore a bathing suit and took a dip in the pool! I was impressed.

      My challenge was to return up the hill.  I took pictures then started out early to start the climb. It took about 15 minutes down and about 30 minutes back.  I was gasping for breath when I reached the top but no cramps or pain in my legs.  I think all this walking everyday has got me in shape…somewhat.  I was proud and felt good…still gasping for breath.  I drank a bottle of water then had some Nieve (fruit sorbet) while waiting for the rest.  It was a long drive back and darkness had set in when I arrived.
    Moses dropped me in the Park and I stopped into 100%  to have a glass of wine and a sandwich.   Paul was sitting on the patio when I walked into Mariposa so I treated him to my Mescal.  He checked on the use of a pool at a hotel he was checking out.  The owner said for $150 Pesos a person could use the pool but not it the hotel was full .  I thought it expensive. Paul lived in Cuernavaca before and said they had lots of pools and lots of water.  Oaxaca doesn’t have that luxury. We talked a bit then retired. My bed shrunk along with my room.
   

      This morning I gave Lucia my contact information in case there was any reason they needed to get in touch with me.  She booked an all day tour for me to Mitla and Tule. I asked for the tenants phone number so I could visit them one more time with last minute questions.
      I arrived at the Teatro to purchase the tickets but both performances were sold out so I stopped at my favorite Cafe Los Cuiles for my first “healthy” breakfast in a long while…fruit and yogurt.

      Teresa was in the office and gave me a print out of the address and Yuko’s, the tenant, phone number to contact so I could meet once more with them.  I attended my third and last Mexican history lesson at the Library.  Paul was out reading on the patio and told me he apologized to the irate lady about our  behavior and invited her to join us tonight…NO ,but thanks anyway.

     I am going to my happy hour but might try another restaurant for dinner. I went to La Quenque that didn’t serve wine but had good food at reasonable prices.    I was starved.  The place was full and I got the last seat.  Husband is Chef…wife the waitress.  I ordered a chicken dish that came with salad , flavored water, rice and vegetables. The  chicken turned out to be fried breast that covered the whole plate.  The salad was a meal in itself with radishes, tomato, carrot, and avocado on a bed of fresh greens. Under the Chicken was rice with fresh broccoli , mushrooms and squash. I had to take it home.
      Then I went back to Biznaga for my Chilean Merlot fix.  I noticed the kitchen in the back was larger than the dining room.  It was huge and well set up and staffed. I have a tour tomorrow and have to move so am off to early bed.

          Theresa told me she would have her Maintenance man drive me out to meet the tenants at her apartment for rent in St Augustine .  It was 9:30 so I inquired but she insisted we had until 10 a.m.  I agreed but thought she told me it would take 30 minutes.  Manana David..this is Mexico..relax.  Finally at 10 to 10 we left and of course arrive late but not by much.  A young Japanese couple were waiting to show me around.

 I took some photos and asked a few questions.  They have a car and a free space there in a lot.  It is located  away from the village. They said they rarely go tto the village because there is nothing there. A 10 minute walk to drop the laundry…gas is delivered in a tank if you call…they keep a parking space in Oaxaca for their convenience that cost 600 pesos a month.  A large patio, lots of light and a spacious living room and bedroom convinced me I needed to have this place.
     I walked back to the main road…about 15-20 minutes and took a taxi from the bus stop into town.  $1 dropped me a couple blocks from the main area. It had been less than one hour and so I went to Marco Polo for breakfast then returned to La Mariposa.

 Stopping at the Library on the way, I talked to Kay. She made arrangements to meet with Gabriel this weekend to view his place and I told her I was not taking the other in town place that her landlord referred me to because of the barking dog. She already had someone to take it and still hopes I will take Gabriel’s place…if I do, I will have two places.
    I told Luci at Mariposa that I was interested and wanted a better year round lease price.  I would pay a deposit after I got the price and agree to rent it year round starting in June.  I hope I can leave a lot of my stuff here for when I return.  I’m taking a siesta then might go explore the North Colonial part of town called the Reforma this evening.

        I ended up at the Oaxaca Cultural Institute…a language school.  Then returned to Biznaga for Happy Hour and a great appetizer.  Returning to the Mariposa , Theresa was sitting in the office. I approached her about my offer and she agreed to 3000 pesos…150 less than I was going to settle for.  I offered her a deposit she refused…I suggested I would like to put plants on the patio and she said I could do what I want.  I requested to leave most of my stuff for the next 3 months instead of having to return with it later…no problem.  I asked if she wanted a written agreement…she shook my hand and said this is our agreement.  I previously thought this woman a bit off and now I think she has better sense then I granted her.  We have a deal and I am happy.  I still might take a place in town if I can make the same deal with Cynthia at the studio of Gabriel’s…the Russian Ballet is in town…

      Paul, the lawyer from Rapid City and another man Colin, an FDA official from Washington,D.C.  were chatting on the patio when I joined them with the news. Paul got a bottle of Bacardi Rum and the three of us solved the world’s problems.  We were just finishing up a Pizza Paul sent out for when we were told it was past curfew and our noise was disturbing the guests…go to bed!  It was almost 11 p.m. when I retired…we finished the bottle…I think.  My Astro Graph said: Do you really think that you can have it both ways today?  Now is the time to make a choice that you will have to live with….hmmmm!

    I lost Sunday…went to church and stayed through the service to take photos of the beautiful Cathedral Santa Domingo.  Took a long walk after to find the address of the apartment I had an appointment on Monday to visit.  I found the street but not the apartment so headed for the Zocala.  I visited another church there and took some photos then tramped around the Markets to look at the Chocolate Shops.  I returned home late in the afternoon for dinner at the 100% Natural.  Nothing special and returned to Google Maps and try and find the apartment.  It came up right away with photos of the entrance.  It was no where near where I had been.  It was right around the corner from Kay’s.

    She had emailed and asked if she could come with me so Monday,after breakfast, picking up my laundry, then going to the news stand to meet the arrival of the Monday English newspaper I met Kay at her studio.  I had wanted to see the studio next to her and Gabriel told the landlord it would be fine but she didn’t have an extra key so he agreed to make one for her but wouldn’t be back until Saturday.  I leave on Monday.  We saw the one bedroom with kitchen and with a little fixing up could be nice for $275 a month.  There was a barking dog in the background that ruined it for me.  I told Perla that I would let her know by Saturday.
        I returned to the Lending Library and took a two hour course on Mexican History that was enjoyable.  When I got back to La Mariposa, Theresa the owner was there so I confronted her about seeing her one bedroom in St Augustine as soon as possible.  She had been avoiding calling the renters and Lucia kept mentioning it but she ignored her.  She agreed to call and Lucia talked to them and arranged for me to visit tomorrow morning.  I will leave at 9:30 with her maintenance man and he will take me to meet the tenants then leave me to take the bus home as I requested.  I wanted to visit the village as well as see what it was like to bus it on my own.
      I headed for Marco Polo, a highly recommended restaurant nearby but took the wrong entrance and ended up at Blu-lemon so ate there.  I hiked over to Biznaga for Happy Hour wine and an Iggy Pop dessert before settling in for the night.  Time flew by the last few days.  6 days before returning to Mexico City and I’m already getting teary eyed.

         Normal Breakfast, overcast day, dropped laundry, bought toothpaste…quiet and cool.

         I did stop over to my coffee shop and brought a Latte back to the room while I played on the internet.  The Lending Library has a Cultural and Language Exchange program every Saturday morning from 10 am to Noon.  It was packed with both Anglos and Mexicans sitting in small groups practicing there language.  A special room was set aside for the children of the participants to also learn and play together with Teachers to assist.
       11 a.m. I left to have some French Toast at my old neighborhood coffee shop near the Teatro where the Opera Rigoletto was being held.  I arrived almost last in line to get one of the only seats left in the front row. The Teatro was small and intimate but 5 stories inside and breathtakingly beautiful.

 Nora was there and agreed to meet me outside after the performance to stop by her home and call another Spanish speaking landlord about a room for me. The broadcast from NYC Carnegie Hall Live had started and I couldn’t see a thing.  I waited almost 15 minutes and still couldn’t see anything.  Then an usher took my ticket and directed me to my seat. I really was enjoying it even though it was in Italian with Spanish subtitles.  The lead was some Serbian singer and a great actor.  Then after one hour there was a 30 minute intermission.  I left for the bathroom and Nora stopped me.  She said it would be four hours long so she was going to cut out later.  I decided to cut out now after taking some photos of the Teatro…one of the reasons I went.  I would see it someday again I hope.  It took place in Vegas in the 60’s Rat Pack era with a Casino owner as Rigoletto.  I enjoyed the whole concept and was actually picking up some Spanish.  I told Nora I would see her at the apartment.

      I walked all around the area and took photos then headed toward her apartment. She hadn’t arrived yet so I went around the corner to Chianti Italian Restaurant and had a glass of wine.  I returned to Nora’s later but still she wasn’t in.   I sat outside her door until around 3 pm then tired and hungry, I left a note requesting she make the call and just forward the information to me on the internet.
     I took a siesta when a got back then went out to Biznaga for Soup and Seafood…the best meal I’ve had in 7 years at least.  It was outstanding creative, flavors that complimented each other, cooked to perfection and just eclectic. The Mushroom Soup accompanied by Stuff…could be anything but this was fresh tomato, avocado, red onion, and  chopped Celentro.  Other stuff could be chopped black olives, tortilla strips, etc.  The entree Al Pastor was Fresh Red Snapper with a chile rub broiled with a light chili sauce and served on a bed of fresh pineapple and onion saute with roasted marinated Cacti and fresh sweet onions. I left on a cloud.  The Chilean Merlot helped.

Great day again and it actually rained a few drops.

            My first night back I went to bed early and awoke around 9 a m.  I need someone to sleep with…keep waking in the night…restless…any offers out there?  I couldn’t wait to join the ‘crew” at breakfast.  The Mexican caterers weren’t there so I had to settle for the free coffee and cereal.  I paid my bill after complaining about the rate increase.  They did give my my original rate and I charged the balance owed.  Theresa told me she would contact the couple renting in St Augustine about showing the place to me for year round rental.  I’ve been told it is a ways out.  Jan’s place was way out and today I told her that I would not be renting her beautiful house with a view because it was too far from Oaxaca for me.

      I did contact Joe ,a retired teacher from Philadelphia Community College whose union supported his 12 hour workweek at full pay!  He retired after teaching over 25-30 years and also with his free time got to teach in Saudi Arabia, Guatemala ,Spain , and a number of other countries to supplement his hard earning 12 hours a week tenure. We met and took a short taxi ride with his Mexican assistant that lived at the house with his wife and three children. I took the tour and liked it a lot for the privacy, light, three bedrooms and a place to park a car and get naked.  It was a close 10 minute taxi ride too.   The problem was it would take some work to make it into my kind of place and half of my dwindling savings. It could yield an income from both Scottsdale and Oaxaca.

   We returned and I went to my coffee shop and bought some coffee from Chiapas to bring back to the US and stopped across the street to stock my communal refrigerator with some low fat homemade yogurt. I met an Englishman there that had a home in Long Island but bought some land many years back and after spending 2 and 1/2 years getting title to it built a home in downtown Oaxaca.  He gave me his card and some advice….get a good lawyer or notorio  that you can trust to handle any legal land transactions. Joe the seller said he has his own for us to use.  Hmmm…I thanked the gentleman and we exchanged cards.  I asked if he could recommend a trustworthy lawyer.  He would. The Friday Market in Llano Park was in full swing.

      I returned to Mariposa then off for lunch or Comidia at the place Kay and I dined with Micheal from Montreal.  It was great .  I was close to the place I was to meet to view an apartment for rent tomorrow morning but the directions were confusing so decided to walk off my meal and check out the neighborhood.    

    I arrived after running in circles for a while and a local knocked on the door.  I didn’t want to disturb the lady as she was living there but she welcomed me. This way I can sleep in tomorrow and I’ll show you the place now.  It was a quiet and friendly neighborhood she walked to and from the center daily with no problem. Mary was teaching English to young children and originally from California she lived in Minneapolis where she had a home as well as one in Arkansas.  Like others , she arrived and loved it but doesn’t want to commit to a long term lease until she has sold one or both of her properties. The area was quiet and nice…only one problem:

MORMON MISSIONARIES

I thanked her and took a taxi to Biznaga for happy hour.

      I sat at the bar and had my Chilean Red but after watching the bartender mix a batch of Margarita’s , I decided to try one.  35% Tequila 35% Cointreau and 30% fresh Lime juice then poured over Ice. It was great and the bill was less than $8. I walked home and emailed Jan, Joe and Maya about the homes and apartment.  I still have more to see…tomorrow is my day to do my thing…I’m going to see Rigoletto. The first opera I’ve seen in years. Ta Ta.