ANOTHER RAINY DAY IN ICELAND

         I should have brought IceWear   This is how they dress and how they look…If I knew I was going to a place to wear these clothes I would buy them…very high quality.  Unfortunately I’m only going to Norway for 5 days and hope to never see a cold climate again.  Here in Iceland, home to 160 volcanoes, you can experience all four seasons in one day and at any time of the year.  Their weather is the most unpredictable in the world. The air is so pristine…no pollution!  Cleanest air I’ve ever breathed. Just a lot of grey sky.  

Reykjavik on Monday

That could be the reason I have not experience ANY leg pain or intermittent claudation that has plagued my travels the last three years.  I still get the muscle pain from weakness…and welcome it. It gives me hope!!
      The overall temperatures here tend to be COOL…like 40%F-68%F with lows in January to Freezing…32%F    I couldn’t wear shorts and a T-Shirt here…but they do in summer…I could be comfortable with proper clothing…but I hate clothes.
        Sam, my landlord, was born in a suburb just outside the city and lived here all his life.  He is a charming, outgoing, physical, and well educated.  This is the impression I get of everyone I meet here. I think he is a professor at the University but haven’t seen him much to even ask.  Off for another adventure and maybe a Viking museum. 
       Oh Oh!  The Minke woke me at 6 am then after a bout in the bathroom with her / him I thought I had more sleep time so returned to bed.  At 10 am I woke all fresh , showered and was ready for a full day of Reykjavik…but after looking at my computer then my phone…I realized it was 3 pm!!! I slept from 10:30pm to 3 pm…16.5 hours…I think a record!  Jet lag!
         I rushed out the door in disbelief to make up for 5 lost hours.  I walked to the HARPA…music hall hoping to catch the last “Get on Get Off ” bus tour of the city.  I made it.

All For Just Me

Alice is going to catch a Cold

Look Close..can you see Grandma?

On the trip I made notes for stop off points and sites I wanted to spend time at.  I wish I had the time to take the ferry to Vigby Island.  Yoko Ono goes there on John Lennon’s birthday in October to beam a light into the Heavens and tell him she is OK and let the world know his wishes for Peace on Earth. The ticket was good for 24 hours. 


Some streets are Rainbows


     When the bus returned to the final stop, my starting point, I did a brief self tour of the Harpa, a marvelous building, then checked out the schedule of events there.

Even the Bathrooms are Special

   

 A 4 D movie was scheduled at 5:30 so I bought a ticket and saw at 4D Movie in a box theater of Iceland.  It was good but after NO COFFEE , food or anything…I was ready to feast. 
        I started back toward the apartment looking for a nice restaurant to relax in.  When I got closer to home I notice there was no commercial areas but saw a local mini mart and stopped to buy some coffee for in the mornings at my room.  When I inquired about a close by restaurant, the shop keeper directed me down the street to the “Three Frenchman” where I ate last night.  He cautioned that it was pricey.  I cautioned the Whale is not to be ordered and went back toward the center with my bag of coffee until I ran into the French Bistro.  I looked at the window menu and saw the crowd inside on a Monday and figured French restaurants couldn’t be all bad.  Later I discovered the Cafe Paris was already on my list as highly recommended…it was fate.

Couldn’t wait..my only meal of the Day

     I got a nice seat and noted the sign: “Slow Food”.  I told the waitress I was a Slow Eater so give me the Icelandic Lamb topped with Pesto on a bed of fresh green beans with the Ratatouille and a 1/2 liter of house Red.  When I finished I reordered the Cafe Gourmand…Coffee and Petite dessert…and add a Calvados Brandy to complete the feast.  It was a feast.  I got Three Mini Shots of Chocolate Mousse (70%), a lemon cake with creamy topping and I can’t remember the other but ate it with relish.  The final bill…$84…but you don’t tip here…at least I didn’t.  It is hard not to given my culture of tipping. TIP From David
     Sorry, wrong tip…new tip from David
     I have seen so many foreigners NOT tip and blatantly state they thought the idea was humiliating…I decided…after spending $84 for a meal.. for just me…solo…NOT to tip.  The party of 4 next to me had Seafood dishes, wine, etc and left NO tip …they were Icelanders.  I followed suit without regret…well maybe a little.

Viking

Danes Smoking and Drinking…in the Cold

The Toilet

      I returned home to an empty house, even the shoes that Sam left at the door when arriving were gone…all of them…I assumed he left on an over night and I have the place to myself.  I will set the alarm to be safe.  My Helicopter notice just arrived and I’m set for 2:15 tomorrow afternoon.  The only problem I see is that Regina Fanny, the contact, said it was 240 krona’s or 1600 Euros…1600 Euros is almost $2000 dollars.   I’m waiting for Regina Fanny ( Royal Ass)  to return my inquiry.  I’ve flown twice in my life $80 in Costa Rica on $120 in Hawaii…but am not paying $2000.   Hopefully I will have some special pictures in my next blog if we don’t get sucked into the volcano.
      Sam returned and I discovered he actually has a job from 10 am t0 5 pm Monday through Friday.  He is an construction engineer on commercial project and does find time to travel…Europe , Southeast Asia and Japan.  We talked about me making Iceland my summer home and exchanged cards. Who knows.  I haven’t had any pain in my legs and he thinks it’s the Oxygen in the Non polluted air…I have to agree!  That is the reason I get the pain is lack of oxygen to my legs.  The one time I felt the same was in Oaxaca in the summer.  I might try going back in summer or measuring the oxygen level this winter and comparing it using a weatherman or stats, if they have them on the levels of pollution in winter vs summer.?? You never know.

David’s future Summer Home

     I hope your day was as good as mine…short as it was.  Wow…just received a confirmation on the price of the volcano tour…$2025!  Not $225 I expected.  I cancelled and Sam said they are just ripping everyone off and taking advantage of the situation…he is taking a jeep tour of the volcano this weekend…for less than $150 but I’m not going to be here to join him.  So folks…you just have to watch Nature on PBS.  Good night.

    

FIRST DAY IN REYKJAVIK

When I awoke, I thought it was late afternoon but with only 5 hours sleep it was 9 am and a dreary grey SUNDAY MORNING.  I didn’t hear or see Sam, my landlord, so took a shower and decided to go out for coffee.  

 The streets were empty but started to fill with tourists like myself.  Japanese with their cameras clicking away.  Backpackers with their hiking boots and potato jackets.  I was wishing for one myself. It was cold and threatening rain.  I ended up in the center before I saw anything that was open.  Icelanders sleep in on Sunday!  The homes are interesting in that most are covered in corrugated metal sheets or plastic.  It is done so well you think its wood. The whole house including the roof and all the sides are sheets of corrugated something.  I also think I should have packed a wool hat, umbrella, windbreaker, binoculars, scarf, and bathing suit for the hot springs…though I’m sure some   don’t require them.

       The Coffee House Bakery was just that.  No Ham and Eggs or anything hot except coffee.  Lots of pastries.  I had a juice , a long john, and coffee.  Looking for more I ventured out into the tourist area and an information office.  

A free map and some brochures and I headed for the main church to catch the view from the top.


 An elevator took me to the top when just as I was taking a picture of the view the church bells started ringing just above us.

 The noise was deafening…well I’m already deaf but like the eye opening view, the bells were ear openers.  
      I checked the map and found my room was just down the hill.  It started to rain and I started home.  Just then I noticed the Sculpture Garden I read about and saw the open gate.

 I quickly ran around in the rain and took as many pictures as I could before starting to feel my coat soak through.  There was no 7/11 or Circle K around to pick up a snack, bottled water or something to put in the refrigerator for myself so I returned empty handed to and empty house.  It is now around 2 pm and I’ve recharged my camera and am ready to venture out into the rain again for an Icelandic lunch.
    I choose Loki because they serve Icelandic food and it was the closest.  My lunch was a Meat Soup with Icelandic Brown bread and butter with Smoked Lamb on the side.  Loki Tea was made with Artic Thyme, Sea Moss, and Viking balls or something.  I was good though.  I finished with Skyr (skeer) Cake (Yogurt) with Rubard sauce and Whipped Cream.  The whole meal was excellent but I’m still hungry. 

    Before returning, I picked up some bottled water, OJ , lunch in a cup and some Skyr (skeer).  That should keep me at home for a while.  I need to get rest so I can enjoy a full days sightseeing tomorrow.  Plenty of Museums, galleries, restaurants and shops to keep me busy for the next four days.
      Sam came home. He left at 7:30 this morning for wilderness emergency rescue training.  Repelling off Mountains and such things.  Very buff ,healthy individual…and smart to boot. He recommended the restaurant next door as one of the best Seafood places in the city and said I should call in a reservation as they  are usually packed on the weekend.
         He left and I went over and told the Hostess that I was a quick eater and if she suggested something quick I would be out of their before her party of 40 showed up in 40 minutes.  She suggested Whale and I feasted on a Minke…two 8 oz slices that looked like sirloin or calves liver.  It tasted good but had sinew throughout and was tough to cut through the sinew.  

 It was cooked RARE and looked like raw meat when you cut into it.  The order came with boiled potatoes and carrots, both fresh.  There was a rich cream and herb sauce with the Whale and nice fresh Rye bread.  I washed it down with the house Red Wine.  The bill was approximatly $54.  I left full, happy , and on time!  The party of 40 were waiting out in the rain.  I just had to cross the street!  Sam and I both agreed the cut of whale came from the tail.  When I came to the tail of any large ocean fish in my restaurant, we removed it, carefully separated the meat from the sinew and put in in the chowder…never serving it to the customer for an entree…but I forgot…the name of the restaurant in English is the Three Frenchman!  Most French have a tendency to go for the money.
     

ON THE ROAD AGAIN – VISITING A VOLCANO

It is less then a week before my long awaited Labor day visit with my daughter and her beautiful family in California. I treated myself by attending a dinner party with my 50 plus Meet up group at Christos.
The lady to my right and I were talking about our travels when I mentioned my return to Oaxaca, Mexico. She had lived there after a trip years ago . She stayed there with a travel friends while they explored Central and Southern Mexico and when the long journey was coming to an end, she could not leave! She left her friends at the airport , canceled her flight, and anxiously returned to Oaxaca. Eventually, after two years, she returned to her home in the States but still longs to return and thinks of Oaxaca all the time.
A story I have heard many times and can vouch for personally having cancelled my month’s vacation touring the Yucatan to remain in Oaxaca and to return for the summer….and the following winter. It’s a magical spell Oaxaca has that affects those that it snares.
Bob was waiting outside of Christo’s as I was leaving with my leftover food for lunch the next day. He did a mimed eating gester with his hand to mouth but no food while his eyes gazed at me longingly….sure Bob..share my meal. I drove off watching him devouring my stuffed chicken and gnocchi with his hands to mouth…no mime this time. No shoes, tattered clothes, hungry, and no home…but a full stomach.
I leave for Iceland after I return from a Labor Day weekend visit to my daughter’s new home in Lake Elsinore California. It will be wonderful to see the grandchildren Ellie and Chas again. My Son in Law, Brian , has generously treated my daughter and I to a wine tour at one of the Temecula country wineries on Sunday afternoon to imbibe in the nectar of the Gods.

Iceland is now reporting a volcanic eruption after several minor earthquakes. Now, it is a baby…but a few years back Iceland had a Volcano that disrupted air traffic for months and sent ash spewing all over Europe and Asia. I have never seen a Volcano up close? Thinking about the $265 Helicopter flight around the Island as a way to accomplish that.
My trip to Lake Elsinore to visit my daughter and the grandchildren went really well. We went to a Baseball game the first night then watched fireworks. I took Chase out for breakfast in the morning when Brian, my son in law stopped by. I visited his home on the Lake then we all returned back to Heather’s apartment where Brian later cooked us some great Mahi Mahi fish tacos!
The next morning I took Ellie out for breakfast then Brian dropped the children off at the In Laws while Heather and I did our wine tour.
Brian showed up just as the tour ended and the 3 of us had a great dinner at a local favorite in Temecula. That evening I visited the next door casino before retiring and won $500 at Texas Hold em and still managed to get to bed early for the trip home.
I stopped over to the apartment on the way out of town to share my winnings with the family before driving home in record time.
Three days later after packing, getting a haircut, flu shot, running last minute errands I was ready for Iceland and a new adventure.
Jeannie, my neighbor , was nice enough to forgo a couple hours of sleep and cart me down to catch my 7 am SW Air flight to Boston via Chicago. I was there for boarding at 6:30 am with baggage checked and eager to fall back asleep when SW announced the plane was broke by a passenger the day before and the exit door needed to be repaired before leaving …which turned out to be just late enough that I missed the Boston connection in Chicago by 5 minutes and so two hours later caught another.
I felt good arriving at Logan before sundown, smelling the ocean air, listening to the Boston accents, and checking in at the Winthrop Arms in Winthrop village. Winthrop was named after the first Governor of Massachusetts and it a charming New England working class town. The Hotel was bought a few years back by David Goll, a retired hockey player from England. The deal was done with a handshake. It is a three story mammoth mansion in the English style of dark wood, marble floors, stain glass, heavy furnishings, etc. A nice dining room welcomed me on a busy Friday night.

The food was reputed to be excellent and my first choice was Baked Stuffed Lobster but the Fresh Swordfish Steak at 14 ozs won out. I ordered a Rum Runner for starters then a bottle of wine. The wine ended up in my suitcase, (thanks to screw tops) and a Brazilian De-Cafe Coffee was my dessert.

The owner , along with two waiters and myself spent quite a bit of time so I could finally get on the Internet. Then I returned to the room and ended up falling asleep. This morning I had to return downstairs to get back on the computer. I’m sitting in the lobby looking out at the Atlantic Ocean having my coffee and checking my email. The small boats sailing by and the walkers doing their morning exercise ….I will sign out and go with them.

Stories this house could tell?
It is hot and muggy at 9 am so my walk is short. There are no businesses close by to get breakfast so I return, call a taxi and end up at terminal E at Logan around 11 pm. Too early to check in for my 2:30 flight. No one is at the Icelandic desk and the food court is beyond security. You can’t get through without a boarding pass so ended up forced to get sustenance at the only available Boston Coffee. A Ham and Cheese sandwich and a Latte is the closest I get to Breakfast and only $13.00.
The taxi driver informed me that when Iceland went bankrupt, the European banks wanted their due in CASH but Iceland doesn’t have C in it’s alphabet…so they gave them ASH.
Well the 7000 mile , 13 hour flight to Tokyo just left and I’m next. A quick Tuna Melt to carry me through and I’m off to board.
I sat with two lady travelers. They were with a third but she got a different seat assignment. They had planned to rent a car and do the Ring around the country, hiking, hot springs…a nice plan. I watched Of Horses and Men, a movie filmed in Iceland and acted by Icelanders. It was a great film. They were sleeping and went the film ended I tried to do the same but there other travel friend stood over me in the aisle while chatting the two wide awake fellow travelers. Finally we all got up to go the bathroom and when I returned they explained there friend had empty seats so they were moving. I tried and got a short nap before the 5 hour flight ended and we arrived at the Iceland airport at 11 pm.
I went through customs then picked up my bus pass and some kronas for spending money, hopped the bus and was off to the capital. The bus arrived at the station in Reykjavik and I got a taxi for the 10 minute ride to air b and b room. It was 1500 Iceland krona or $13. Not to bad. My room was 3 flights up and I was huffing and puffing when Sam greeted me at the door of his apartment. My room did NOT have a private bath but a shared one down the hall and was more like a closet. It was too late to complain and was not the first time I have been lied to or misrepresented and over charged by Air B N B. I don’t like paying over $400 for 5 nights…if you can call checking in at almost 1 am, a night. Sam had no suggestions on where to go to get some food except a 5 minute walk. I spent an hour unpacking and getting settled in my postage stamp room and then headed out on Saturday night. The town was crowded with drunks. Shouting, falling down, arguing, plastered drunks. They were lines out of every night club or disco joint in the downtown. Empty wine and beer bottles around the sidewalks BUT everyone was stylishly dressed for the night out. Friday and Saturday are the two nights every young blooded Icelander is out to party. They all work during the week so this is it for them. People were polite or just didn’t see me. I finally found a line at a hole in the wall window to order and pick up…hot dogs. I jumped in line and got a dog (Iceland uses lamb, beef and pork) with the works and chips to go.
No sandwiches or any other food available to speak of and I had walked quite a way to get there. I returned with a bag of chips…the dog was eaten in five minutes. Very good!  It is now four am and I’m tired. Good night!

ADIOS

      One more day and lots of packing, sorting, and reminiscing.  I walked to the library today and bid my farewells to the few friends that were there: John, Dan, Micheal, Bill, Richard , Mike, Allen, and of course Kay.  Portrait of Maria: by Shannon was interesting. That’s it for today.

Adios…David’s Winter in Oaxaca

GOOD FRIDAY…SATURDAY…EASTER

       Streets of Oaxaca were quiet after the processions and earthquake.  Business was starting to pick up at the Zocalo when I arrived.

 I set up my computer inside of El Importanado and ordered the Americano Breakfast.  It was crap…and their advertised Wi-Fi kept going in and out.  I left for Black Coffee…a nice Air Conditioned (yes…first I’d experienced…too cold) artsy Cafe.  

     I wandered around the afternoon and took some photos as the churches were setting up for the evening processions.

 A mysterious man gave me a fortune:  I will have one day of unexpected joys and sharing with your love ones!  Sounds good. I didn’t stick around and walked home. 

                  Thunder and Lightening were threatening a rain that never came.  My next door neighbor said Hello from her balcony…we agreed it was a good Good Friday and she returned to entertaining her guest…a Black man.  Don’t see many in Mexico.  I suspect he has been staying with her.  I went to bed early.
     ASO Cafe was opened this morning.  That is the place I had a reservation for a Studio and cancelled.  She has 3 one bedrooms that are booked next year. I had such a nice breakfast and their Wi-Fi is like lighting that I almost asked her to  put on the list for cancellations.

      I walked into the center enjoying the cool breeze and stopped at a cafe for some fresh OJ .  Mid Afternoon I walked up to Biznaga but they were packed again so returned to the Zocalo after spending some time on a public computer printing out my itinerary for the next two weeks.  It is an evil necessity to accomplish all my appointments and tasks required upon returning to the states. Jump start the car being number one.
    I returned to El Importanado. Cheap good wine and fair food for a tourist trap. They are friendly and give good service.  I read another story in my book. I think I’m going to finish it before I check out of here on Tues. Amazing true stories about Mexico. I had the Pasta Alfredo while waiting for the Tuna that was advertised for 7 pm.  It was 7:30 when I paid the bill and left…only to discover they were on “stage” in front of the Zocalo and I had been expecting them touring around.  

I took some photos, enjoyed the music, then got my fortune told again: 

 “Your open mind will make you feel a special interest today for the unknown,  You’ll want to go for no known or discovered worlds and achieve greater personal well-being. Your relationships will be outgoing and  able to establish new friendships and to work together.” 

           I then took a taxi back. Easter Sunday Manana…Rejoice.

MY LUNCH WITH KAY……LUNCHES

      Kay and I agreed to another of our luncheon outings today.  I would be gone shortly and having been sick last week , we never did see each other.  It was a beautiful day…as usual, when I arrived at her apartment for our appointment.  
      We walked to Danzante…one of the most upscale restaurants in

Oaxaca…expecting a really nice meal.  The restaurant, along with most during this busy Easter time, was not offering Comida just a la carte from the menu.  Kay started with a “Fondue” in a Rustic Bread Roll.   I got one too but don’t remember ordering it so refused it.  Good thing as it was chunks of maybe Swiss cheese in a Mushroom puree that looked like re fried beans .  All served luke warm in an oversized hollowed out Roll.  She never finished it.  I offered her some of my main course of Ancho Chili stuffed with  grasshoppers, and something else which made it bearable but not filling or exceptional.  She suggested we go to Biznaga and have a real meal.  I finished my custard dessert with

figs and chocolate, took the last swig of a glass of Cabernet, paid the bill and we were in line at Biznaga…30 minute wait.              This was Holy Thursday when people are out visiting 7 Churches or temples.   This is a custom from Roman times and brings everyone out on the street going from church to church…and eating in between.  
         I suggested a restaurant next door, Zignaya, that neither of us had been and had great reviews.  That also had a line out the door.  Kay said she always enjoyed the Hamberguesas at the Camino Del Real Hotel at $14 each but well worth it?

 I was full but joined her for an Neive Sorbet and another glass of wine.  I didn’t see the hamburg as special but she polished it right off with gusto.
       She meets with friends on Thursdays around 5 pm for coffee at a nice place near the Opera.  I joined her and recognized Bruce and met John for the first time.  John had been around Central America for a number of years and Oaxaca for the last year.  He was from a suburb outside of Toronto, well educated and interesting to talk to, as was Bruce.  

      The morning of Good Friday had processions all over town at the different churches.  I overslept and was awaken by singing in the local procession just outside my compound.  I was on the computer around 9:30 when the 7.2 Mexico City earthquake struck and moved my building.  Well it swayed for about 15 seconds. Great way to start Good Friday.  The maid shooed me out the door an hour later but all processions were done and the streets were quiet.

GRANDE LUNA

     I was determined to end this suffering sore throat.  Mag was still closed this morning.  I believe he is one of many that shutter their doors during Holy Week.  The lavenderia wasn’t, thank goodness.  I dropped off the last of my laundry and headed for Llano park to get my News.  Hector was also closed for Holy Week so I headed for the “free” Doctor Adrianna at the Ahorra Farmacia. 
        Many Farmacias have doctors free of charge and you buy your drugs at that Farmacia.  Adrianna had me on her computer when in July of last year I lost an ear bud in my ear…don’t ask…but it was painful.  She could only refer me to the hospital after confirming such a stupid act.  The Reforma Hospital had the tools to extract it without damaging the eardrum…like it could be any worse than it is. This time around she diagnosed an infection and gave me “antibiotics” again…with a decongestant and ibuprofen.  I filled the combo antibiotic/decongestant capsules and took one. Called Mucocef for respiratory infections. Wish I had started last week but feel better already.

      I arrived at the library early and took advantage of their Internet provider to upload my photos to the clouds and play a game of poker while waiting.
           Jan, a wonderful retired Sociology Professor from U of Chicago and in her 80’s showed up.  I hadn’t seen her since I took a collectivo with her to a Village to visit a young girl she was Mentoring and sending to U of Chicago on a scholarship at only 16 years of age.  She introduced me to the family and the girl after we had lunch. She was trying to sell me her home there.  She already build another home and had this one rented but the renters left so she wanted to let it go. I thought it nice but too remote for me.


     Then another long time resident of Oaxaca arrived.  I heard she was from North Carolina that divorced well and had a couple homes in Oaxaca with a Condo on Storrow Drive in Boston overlooking Cambridge and the Charles River.  She would call the Ritz and have dinner delivered.  Very friendly , polite and enjoys a drink. She recognized me and did say hello. 

     I left and went to treat myself at a really upscale restaurant.  I hadn’t had breakfast or lunch so thought a Comida was in order.

 I sat overlooking the Zocalo but no Comida’s were served at this place…full menu only.  I had a tasty but not the best French Onion Soup then a Basque dish of Bacala..Salt Cod that was supposed to have the salt soaked out of it…It didn’t.

 Very salty.  I ate what I could and $40 later left never to recommend it.   
     When I returned home, I discovered the electric was off.  I reported it to the Tere and left to pick up some water and yogurt at the Chedraui supermarket.  The electric company had their truck outside the front gate when I left so assumed I would have electric when I returned.  The truck was gone, the lights at the entrance came on when I hit the switch…but no electric at my unit.  I was told the truck was on it’s way.  I said it was there but left.

 There is no bell at the door so unless you have a key, you can’t get in. 
             I couldn’t get on the Internet so left and went to visit Kay.  She was out so I headed for Biznaga when a car pulled up and a lady asked if I was looking for Katherine?  She said she saw me come out of the building and looking around.  I explained I was looking for Kay.  I think she was German but then drove off…I continued to Biznaga.

 On the way I noticed another demonstration of protesters.  I thought it might be the ones I saw earlier so took some photos then saw tents up the street.  Turned out the tents were Oaxacan Crafts for sale from all over the state.  I decided to browse them when I came to the carvers of St Martin.  I mentioned the famous Manuel Jimenenz.  The man said he was Manual Jimenenz.  I got out my book and showed him the story of him and how he changed the culture of San Martin.  He introduced me to his wife and daughter.  They paint his carvings.  I didn’t want any but then thought twice when I saw a series of Cat Carvings.

 Chris has two cats so I thought it a perfect gift for her and bought one.  He then told me he was Fernando Lopez not Jimenez.  I took some photos and we parted friends.  It was a joy to meet a family so personable, likable, gentle, giving, and TALENTED. Got to visit San Martin.
       Biznaga was doing a brisk business when I arrived.  I wasn’t really hungry, just wasting time until the electric was turned on.  I had a Sangria, a Wine, Melon Port Soup, and an Apple Tart with Chocolate Walnut Ice Cream and left.

  

       I was just leaving the Zocalo when a light rain started.  No one paid any attention.  We haven’t had any rain..it was just a teaser.  Well it did rain.  Not a lot but great thunder and lightening with moisture taking the dust out of the air…and the smell of rain.  The is the hot month but it has only been hot for two week and then only in the afternoon. The warm breeze turned to cool wind.  I opened the doors when I arrived and within 30 minutes it was chilly and I closed up the place for the evening.  The electric was on.
      This   morning was perfect likyesterday…Spring fragrance of beautiful blooming flowers, Orchids, Birds of Paridise, Vibrant Reds, Orange, and Yellows. The right temperature with a slight breeze of fresh air. 

OUR LADY OF SORROWS & START OF HOLY WEEK

        The concert I attended was a group of gifted students that had been selected for their ability in the Performing Arts.

 Peter from the library was there so I sat with him.  One row up was the lady that invited me, tears in her eyes as she and her husband watched their daughter sing with the group.  She invited me to another performance the next night across the street at one of the many Cathedrals.  Her daughter came up to me after to thanks me for coming and also invite me.  Peter and I went to the Zocalo to chat before heading home.  

     Sabado I woke after 13 hours sleep feeling much better.  I finally decided to go get something to eat.  A walk around the Zocalo with a visit to the Cathedral to see “Maria” sing and I ended up at the El Sante Fe where Fernando greeted me warmly…especially when I ordered the NY Strip Steak rare. 
        Thinking he had a broiler or gas grill I explained just one minute on both sides. He did and I had to send it back.  I realized with no “score marks” he was cooking on a griddle or flat top  Second time was perfect and it was a good 14 oz steak.  My stomach wasn’t used to having to digest all that protein and my energy level went down so I went home.

    Domingo I woke still clogged up with a stuffed up , bleeding , running nose. It had been a week now so decided to go see Dr Z tomorrow if it continued.  72% outside and sunny…I need to shower and get out for a long walk.  

     I spent the afternoon lounging around the Zocalo and in my Cafe with the Lady of Sorrows shrine before taking a taxi home.  When I arrived the driver didn’t have change for a 50 Peso bill…the fare was 40 Pesos (normally 35).  When I told him I didn’t have change, as the bus behind us was beeping his horn, he said neither did he.  I finally fumbled around and pulled out my wallet and found two twenty peso bills as the bus horn increased its frequency so my blood pressure kept rising along with my anger.  It is so frustrating that no one ever has change….at least for a gringo! 

      When I came in the gate, my landlady was there.  I explained again that I had some things for Yagul but there was a lady there for two months.  Perhaps she could ask the lady if she wanted to utilize these chairs and cushions, etc.  She said she would store them for me so I guess I wait until the last day to pack and store the balance of my belongings.  She has been nice about all of it.  Then she said she didn’t have a barking dog…just one old one that she never lets out…BUT now she does have a little barking poodle that yaps.  I’m glad my space is at the end of the compound.  I think I’m starting to get stressed with only a week left before departure and me still fighting this sore throat.  Tomorrow I have to call the Veterans Hospital to reschedule an appointment they set for me for next Monday. The day before my departure.

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        Well after an hour and a half as the 17th caller in line then disconnected at number 5 and three other similar tries, I gave up.  I did get to leave a message.  I went for breakfast at Mag’s but he was closed so the facade could be painted. I felt better so didn’t visit the Doctor and instead picked up some Alka Seltzer.  I had breakfast at Marco Polo…big Mexican breakfast…too much. I arrived at the library with my computer for Bill to look at.  He had it up and running in 5 minutes.  Kay stopped by and we chatted a bit but I returned home instead of having coffee. It was hot and I didn’t get much sleep.  When the bus came to my stop I moved one foot forward the the other just slipped right off the step and I was in the street. It was like I fell through a trap door and I still don’t know how it happened.  Thank God I had a hold of the rail.  I slept two hours as soon as I walked in the door.  I checked the time when I got up and called the VA.  I got my appointment rescheduled with no problem.

Los Mariposas Closed Holy Week


       I took the bus into town and headed for the Sante Fe again.  Lovely dinner then taxi home again.  The area was packed with people having fun.

DAY OF REST-START OF ANOTHER WEEK

     Sunday I woke with a sore throat.  I wanted to deal with it ASAP with only a short time before departure. Lobos Azul Cafe was like a whole foods , healthy menu and seemed like the place to nurse myself back to health.   I had a lentil soup with pineapple, and tomato.   A nice Coconut, Ginger Mate all accompanied by bread and ants. So much for healthy food at Lobos.   I can make soup at home.  I wandered to the  Zocalo but it was quiet after last night’s carnival.

          Monday at Mag’s for Breakfast and a few movies.  Six to be exact…all action packed thrillers or Academy Award winners.  Great to watch while in bed sick. 

Real Corn

        Tuesday it cooled way down requiring me to unpack a sweater I haven’t had a chance to wear in Mexico.  I had wasted a couple days with Hemroid’s and a sore throat and was anxious to get out of the studio.  
        I ventured out pick up some Preparation H and to pick up a Botana (assorted Oaxacan appetizers) to contribute  to Men’s Happy Hour at Casa Charle’s.  The pharmacy didn’t have what I wanted but instead had a Mexican cream with Lidocaina/Hidrocortisona/Oxido de Zinc…did the trick after months of suffering.  I went back and bought more to bring back to the States.  The Tipico Restaurantante also prepared a great Botana that all enjoyed.  

         The conversation was not our typical Whas Up stuff but more like discovering your roommate’s strangled body upon arrival one evening.  This was over two years ago. Then went to  90% of all crime goes unsolved…no one is prosecuted.  Police don’t make enough or are guilty themselves.   Reward for information on social net then nothing until this week from a suspected spammer in the Philippines.
          I did meet a new person that had been in Oaxaca quite a while.  He was in the Peace Corp in Africa when I was in Vietnam.  He then came to Vietnam after me to work for USAID where he spent 2-3 years in Nha Trang, then was transferred to other places in Vietnam.  Nice man and a little older than me by a couple of years.   We had a nice time and all left around 7 PM.  I took the slowest bus trip ever.  The driver drove slow…unheard of in Mexico…but always arrived with the traffic at the stop.   Everyone boarded in slow motion to Romantic Spanish music playing on the driver’s boom box.   It was at Dusk and like a dream…so strange. Could be the wine and the hit on the pipe as I was saying goodbye.


      Wednesday I spent nursing myself back with chicken broth, juice and rest.  I had a nose bleed…first ever…and coughing up some blood at night.  I couldn’t stay in so on Thursday took a trip to the library in hopes of finding Bill to help me with my computer. 
          A lady moved into my future place across the way and shut me out of my Internet provider.  We have 5 providers in the compound but she locked into mine and choose not to share it.  Now I couldn’t get on any of them with the Acer computer I had.  It kept saying Need to Renew IP address.  My other computer was OK but I had pictures on the Acer to upload to the clouds for my blog and couldn’t. 
      When I boarded the bus, I sat next to an architect with some drawings.  He was barking ordered into his smart phone to do a google search.  Se Habla Google? , I asked?  At first he looked puzzled then started to laugh.  He was an instructor at the local school.  We talked for the entire bus ride. He was from Veracruz and was having a hard time finding work in his profession.  We talked about Mexico’s place in the world with some world class architects as well as Spain’s.  

     Bill wasn’t at the library so I left to return another movie to Mag and get something to eat when a lady jumped out of her car and nervously approached me.  She explained her daughter, who shyly sat in the car peering out, has a homework assignment to interview a gringo for English and also for her music class.  I agreed and the Mother proceeded to grab the interview from her daughter and start to ask me the questions…I stopped her and said I agreed to have your “daughter” interview me not you.  She gave the paper to her daughter who proceeded to read the questions in perfect English.  They were mostly about my attitude and opinion of the influence of music in my daily life as well as on the world.  When the interview was done I asked if she played an instrument or was musically inclined.  She just started singing in a school choir and her debut was this Friday.  I was invited and accepted to attend the recital at the Palace Museum in the Zocalo at 7 PM.  

      I walked over to the bus stop but protests by the FPR…Communists Party over what I’m not sure…Teachers…etc.  This time there were rallies in the Zocalo and thousands of people that had been bussed and trucked in from all over.  Some carrying lead pipe clubs about 4 feet long.  Some were wrapped in duct tape and others were just bare metal.  They were blocking all the access roads near the Zocalo and bus routes.   It was hot and I was tired when I arrive to return the movie to Mag then came home to rest. 

           That evening I was ready to waken my landlady because I was bumped of my Network just as I made an “All In” Poker bet with a Flush.  Then I discovered I could get on another network and block anyone else from interfering so I had my own network and the landlady got a good nights rest.  I still lost the poker game and still had my Acer computer that needed a tune up.
         It’s Friday and the maid came and cleaned the room.  I returned from the shopping to pack last of my things to go into storage at the place across from me that was occupied.  The rest will go under the stairwell here for 6 months in a box.
I’m off now for dinner and a choir recital.  I think the protesters went home.  My coffee shop had a shrine to the lady of Guadalupe with a drummer and trumpet in front to bring attention.   Friday of Our Lady of Sorrows.    Many people came in off the street to bless themselves and say a prayer while I had my coffee.  It is the beginning of the end of Lent and Holy Week.  Decorations are going up throughout the city in preparation for the processions that begin in a few days. 

Baseball -La Boheme -Danza- Costa Rica

     Sabado is to be a busy day.  There was a Gringo Hot Dog and Beer party with everyone going to the Guerros Team first Friday of the Season Baseball game.  The group had tickets to the 8 pm game but I decided to spend the day relaxing.  

MY CELL TOWER


       I had Comida at Mag’s and returned the Cormac McCarthy Movie The Counselor to him. The maid cleaned my room so I decided to Siesta in the heat. 

       I woke at 5 pm, read a bit then ventured down to the Zocalo where I continued my reading on a park bench when I heard music in the distance but continued reading until a religious procession came right by me with the Priest leading the alter boys and the congregation in song with a guitarist accompanying them as they proceeded around the Park.  It was moving.  

       I finished my story about the Folk Art Carvers of Oaxaca and ended up at Lobo Azul Coffee House for Wine and Pasta Carbonara. I was finished and waiting for my bill when a young lady sat at a table across from me.  We struck up a conversation.  She, Dion, just arrived from Sitka Alaska where she had worked and lived as a Social worker for the last 23 years. She was from Washington State/B.C. originally and was on vacation.  We talked a bit about the tribes in Alaska.  She knew them all and was interested in learning about Oaxaca.  We exchanged pleasantries and I told her about a Mayan Dance tomorrow then bid adios for a taxi home.


          Doce horas en Sabado.  I came to the conclusion that it would be difficult for me to make my home anywhere other than Oaxaca. My day started at Aso Cafe, where I had reserved a studio for November then cancelled for my Oasis in Oaxaca…where I am now. I had a Vegetable Omelet with Latte then walked to the Opera House to see La Boheme with Kay.  

        Chuck was sitting on the steps when I arrived at 10:30 and had not seen Kay. I waited until she showed so we could buy seats together on the second floor Luge…like important people we are not. The three of us had some water at the next door Cafe until the doors opened for the performance.

 Four acts and Kay and I were on our way to El Santa Fe to fill our stomachs.  The opera was awesome….as I was to discover…so was the day.
       She had the Salmon this time and I the Chicken. The Comida came with wine so surprisingly she ordered a glass of Red with me?  Then gave it to me as she doesn’t drink wine.  We left after Fernando and Kay did a couple songs together. Not an Opera but good for a musical.  I was impressed…and borachio after two glasses of wine…ready for Siesta.  I left Kay on the corner and took a cab home. 

         The room was hot so I sprayed the sheets with ice water , turned on the fan and awoke just in time for the Plume Dance at Soledad Basilica.  

The place was packed with Mexicans to see another awesome performance in 90 % heat.  Over 70 Plume dancers along with another 30 female assistants filled the arena with the police band accompanying the dance procession. The Plume Dancers did over 7-8 5-10 minute dances in costume with headdresses.  You could see them struggling to catch their breath after each dance. They practiced every night for the last month to do this performance.  Danza de la Plume complements Shannon , an Oaxacan resident, from her blog and You Tube



       I stopped on the way back to the Opera House to see the Costa Rica National Modern Dance Troupe, for some postres.  Little miniature doughnuts cut in half and filled with lemon custard…and cones made of pastry also filled with lemon custard.  I had always avoided this type of Mexican food but was hombre and couldn’t resist 4 for 80 cents.

TRUMPET-DRUM-FATHER-SON


     Then I encountered a team of Break Dancers doing their thing. Amazing.  The Opera House was close when I saw an all Chrome Trick Bike the creator was showing off. 

CONTINETAL WHEEL – MUFFLER

     I arrived at the ticket counter just in time but the lady wouldn’t take my money.  It was Libra…free…as was the Plume dancers.  I was impressed but not being a big fan of Modern Dance I was one of three people that ducked out in the middle of the performance.  A big NO NO.

       The Carnival atmosphere of the religious holiday drew me to the Zocalo.  I passed a crowd of onlookers as a trick bike rider jumped over 12 people lying down on the pavement then abruptly stopped in front of the awestruck people…me being one of them. Evil Knievel took a bow and proceeded to demonstrate his ability on a Bicycle. 
             Arriving at the Zocalo, I discovered a whole world of performers and crowds of people.  The Plaza Major in Madrid wished they had this business.  The entertainment surpassed anything in Europe and was cheaper.  Except for the crowds of Mexican…Europeans filled the void.  I settled on a table where I knew they had Serrano Ham and Melon with good house Red wine and placed my order. The last time I had this was in Seville at the Ponce De Leon Plaza in a Bar established in 1650.  It cost double for the same Serrano Ham that had to travel all the way to Oaxaca and I got it for half price.

       Music was everywhere.  A Salsa Band was attracting at lot of attention and dancers. There were the Oaxacan Tuna Mistrals that wandered around with their Medieval Costumes and old instruments, a couple different Mariachi’s Bands, a Trio playing at the restaurant where I sat, then a Blues band as I was catching the taxi home. So ends 12 Hours on Saturday in Oaxaca.
      The next morning I stepped outside and saw butterflies dancing in the yard.  Mexicans say they are the Souls of the Dead.