Author: David Taylor

Food and drink

Various sizes of Chapulines at the Mercado Benito Juarez in Oaxaca, Mexico

Cacao beans being ground & mixed with almonds and cinnamon to make chocolate in a Oaxacan chocolate store.

The town of Santiago Matatlán calls itself the world capital of mezcal. The best known producer here is Rancho Zapata, which also has a restaurant. It is owned by a man that goes only by the name of Tío (uncle) Pablo, who won first prize for his mescal in Chicago in 2003. In many parts of the Central Valleys area, one can find small stands and stores selling locally made mezcal on roadsides.^[22]

      Now you have an idea of the “food offerings”  you can understand better our quest.  Jared, my new friend joined me for our tour of Monte Alban, a ruin in remarkable condition considering it was built over 2000 years ago.  We first decided to check out another hotel recommended to me by one of the guest here. It is the Posada Margarita.  We got another map and after some research and walking through lovely Oaxaca, we found it.  It was about $27 a night.  Private room with bath and internet connection.  It was available the week I needed it so paid one night to hold it and we headed for the bus departure point for Monte Alban.

      We arrived, booked the mini bus then waited around for about 15 minutes until it pulled in.  The ride was only $5 and a short 20 minute ride up and up and narrow potholed road along the edge of a cliff similar to the Grand Canyon!  We arrived at the front door while all others were stopped 1/2 mile down the road or dropped off there in a taxi to walk up the steep incline to the entrance.  

      We spent about 2 hours walking around, taking pictures, visiting the on site museum and having coffee before heading back to the parking lot for our return trip.  

      The driver wasn’t full as some left earlier or later.  The driver started hawking a cheap fare back until he filled the van and we arrived before the bus stop to drop the new passengers , collect cash under the table then drop the rest at the bus stop.  We got out with the contraband passengers. It was right at the Market that  Jared had visited before so he gave me a tour.

     It was the finest market I had been to in the world.  Not a lot of seafood, not the largest, but the best quality products, variety and food stalls!  We ate a lunch of Corona and Tlaypala.  A lady selling chapulines, a type of grasshopper that has been fried and seasoned with lime , salt and chilies, offered me a sample. I regretted not taking offerings in Chiang Mai Thailand so this time accepted.  They were crunchy and delicious.  Like a snack food but can’t tell you which one. She suggested I buy some and sprinkle them on my Tlaypala.

        We left there and stopped in a Cacao Shop where they open Cocoa nuts and then roast the seeds and grind into Cocoa for beverages and over 7 types of Mole used in cooking.  It is a rich chocolate paste with different combinations of spices from roasted chilies to cinnamon.  We sampled a bit then separated to freshen up and meet up later for dinner.  

        I took some photos in the market, and on the way back.  I also stopped in the bookstore to pickup a bus route map as well as a Oaxaca Map.  When I arrived I signed up with International Living travel newsletter that specializes in rentals and sale of property all over the world.  I’ve been smitten.

       I showered and met Jared at 100% Natural to go to a place he suggested.  Monday it closed for the holiday so we grabbed a place nearby.  I had some reasonable priced wine…first time at a restaurant…and a chicken breast with goat cheese and spinach accompanied by black beans..  Neither one of our dishes were really special but good.  Service was friendly and good. I didn’t photo the food..just our exit.

     I slept well and decided to sleep in while Jared invited me to a tour of the most Volumious Tree in the world.  I suggested we meet after he returns for dinner this evening at the 100% Natural since they are good and weve been there three times and had very little to eat…Monday a.m.

 I had breakfast with the group.  The Hotel provides weak coffee and the Mexicans cook and serve you Tamales, Tacos, rolls, cereal, and some other things for 50 Pesos.  I had three Pina , Nuts and Raisins Tamales that were great.  The Taco was a meal but the coffee was lacking so a lady suggested down the street.

         I had laundry to do and the Lavanderia was close so I walked with one of the ladies but it was closed due to the holiday that lasted until Tuesday.  I knew I had to find a place to drop it so I could pick it up by Tuesday when I had to check out.  I walked around the neighborhood asking shop owners and felt like a Pledge for a Fraternity.  Oh yes go left then right two street and it’s right there…Right!  Then go back one street and down four…Right!  Then, then, then…surprisingly I was enjoying this and determined to find it.  I found it after about an hour of combing the area and taking pictures along the way.  I returned and did stop at the recommended Coffee shop.  Hola…Latte por favor. Te or Cafe. Cafe.  Americano?  Si Phoenix Arizona.  I paid and walked out and arrived to find no…Latte but an Americano Cafe.  I’m going to master the basics yet.

     Most of the afternoon was doing photos with the door open and the fresh breeze flowing through. Bruce called my Skype number 3 times thinking I had died so I returned his call and we chatted a bit with a great connection considering the Hotel’s is weak.Jared and I arranged a meeting for tomorrow and were going to get together tonight but he passed to go hiking.

        I returned  to 100% natural and tried some Hummus and a Leon Beer flavored with tamarind and frosted with cayenne and salt.  Not that great.  The hummus was. I had emailed and called Darcy’s home number and told him to join me but he never showed.  I should have called his cell. I picked up; my laundry not pressed but folded so well, I thought they were.  Not bad for $2.50.

     Back at the Hotel I situated myself on the veranda with some wine to do this. Others joined me and I finally decide to be social. Lots of fireworks going off all evening. Oaxaca is one of two of the poorest provinces in Mexico.  It is noted for it’s folk art and folk food. It is part of a triangle of food unique to Mexico and the world that includes Veracruz and Pueblo. It has the largest variety of Chili Peppers in the world.
       Off to Monte Alban Aztec ruins tomorrow and have to practice my first Spanish lesson…thanks teach.
   

          I had a restless sleep as usual before a departure.  One dream I was with some friends from my home town and we were near a college campus headed for a big where house complex that we would sometimes go late at night to hangout. When we arrived the massive doors were shut and locked. We pounding until the doors swung open and the whole inside was a scene out of the inferno.  SS guards grabbed us and forced us inside while locking the doors behind. 
        It was live art.  A play we heard about in which the audience is captives in a concentration torture camp run by  German SS officers and none other than Hitler greeted us  with an ironic smile and a sinister grin while directing the guards to disperse us to different areas.  There were people laying in blood, beaten, cut and broken.  Some dead. Who were the actors and who were the audience we weren’t sure but even knowing it was a world acclaimed live impromptu theater production didn’t convenience us that it wasn’t real.  I never saw my friends the rest of the night. All were forced to crawl and if anyone stood up they were pushed back down.  
          I crawled past torture rooms and witnessed the diabolical Dr Mengala  carving up a body.  I tried to find a place to escape. There were screams and flashing lights, loud noises I couldn’t identify .  It was dark and I saw a hall that looked as if it might lead to and exit down the alley.  I started crawling trying not to be seen in the melee but a SS officer shouted something and in short order two men in jack boots were dragging me to a corner where Hitler himself pulled a knife and put it to my eye.  I could feel the blade on the side of my forehead and hear his laughter as he taunted me in German…Jew lover, Jew lover .  I should take your eyes out.
          The play was intended to have you experience the terror the camp prisoners experienced.  It did.  I was beginning to think this was real and I was going to lose an eye…I was terrified.
         Then the alarm went off and I collected my sheets, grabbed my suitcase, dropped the key at the desk, had breakfast while reading about the explosion at the Pemex building. They say it was an air-conditioner that overheated killing at least 24 people, leveling two floor of 54 and injuring another 80.  Air-conditioner exploded at an modern energy building in 75% weather.  I guess that’s why there were over 150 Riot police surrounding the Ministry of Justice when I passed by that day.  I could smell the smoke last night on the way to the bathroom.  It smelled like an incinerator.  Maybe that is what prompted the dream.  My taxi arrived and Edgar drove me to the bus station.  I got my ticket and am on my way to Oaxaca.

      Astro Boy, an animated cartoon film with David Sutherland and Nick Cage but it was all dubbed in Spanish so you couldn’t tell one from the other. I wonder if they get residuals for that.
      Transformers with Vincent Tarrantino , Rob Lowe and some B actors.  Fair but went on and on and on...and the winner 127 Hours for the second time is highly recommended. The ending is great.  I can’t say I watched the whole thing since I had seen it before but for those of you that haven’t , put it on your list.
         We finally had a five minute stop before the last hour to Oaxaca.  I used the bathroom and though improved was still having problems.
         When we claimed our luggage at our destination, Ed from Wexford asked where I was staying?  He hadn’t booked anything and didn’t care about a B & B.  Too expensive.  Ireland is still reeling from the economy and despite the fact prices are still expensive in Ireland.  We befriended Jared from Seattle with a backpack and all walked into town.  I bought a beer round while we pondered our situation.  Ed bought the next.  I went to my  B & B while Ed headed to Jared’s Hostel with him.  We exchanged e-mails. Jared and I hope to do some culinary exploration.  He was there for the food too.  He had attended college for a year in Spain and almost taught at Pueblo Ingles where I did. He was fresh graduate then so took  a lucrative offer with an IT company instead, saved a lot of money and quit to travel 

         The La Mariposa Hotel that I was at was having impromptu Happy Hour when I checked in.  Walking through the courtyard to my room I noticed about 9 elderly ladies eyeing me up on the way through.  I just wanted to unpack and go out to eat.  I inquired about staying an extra two days but they are booked solid.
        Today was a holiday in Mexico and the Zocalo had tents with crafts and food stalls.  I got a couple tacos then a crepe dessert and after picking up some wine and water, returned all excited to get on the internet in my own room and explore more options in Mexico.  Not to be.  
         When I returned I logged in but the signal was so weak that it took me over 30 minutes just to download 4 emails!  I was depressed.  How am I going to book another trip, room, tour…and do blogs photos and emails.  This was a waste of money so I vowed to start looking for some other places to stay tomorrow.  
        Darcy , the Couchsurfer from Canada offered me a place to stay.  Two barking dogs and a smoker didn’t excite me but he and I are supposed to meet tomorrow so I’ll see.  He sent me his contact phone numbers this morning.  
      It’s 3 am and as you are aware…I can’t sleep.

       I’m ready to go out and visit a site today.  As I write this I have a loud speaker blaring some Mexican Dance music,workman refinished the bar that was just painted but someone ignored the sign WET PAINT and the whole bar had to be redone after five executives had to assess the damage.  I’m going to see the Diego Rivera museum and see what else I can squeeze in before I pack for my departure.

      It was a warm and sunshiny day.  Everyone was out and about. I felt better and stopped at Starbucks and kept everyone in line waited while I tried to pronounce a Raspberry drink special on the menu..repeating my mistake over and over while pointing to the menu. Finally I was laughing at myself along with the line of customers while trying to apologize for my bad Spanish.  I sat out on one of the few sidewalk Cafe’s I have seen in the City.  It was pleasant.  I took some photos then walked on to the Diego Rivera Museum. I passed through the park but it wasn’t where I remembered it on the map.  I went down another street and approached a young business man that spoke little English but offered to walk me there.  We chatted a bit. He designed a program for University of Phoenix but has never been there.  It was outsourced to Mexico. Interesting that a Private college that teaches IT has to source it out to Mexico City for their program. We laughed and bid goodbyes.

The long line for ATM very common sight.

Mom and Dad keep me tethered to this rope while they make lots of Money pretending to be authentic Indians . They play music and sell CD’s maybe you’ve seen them all over the world?

That’s my Aunt and Uncle..we all sleep in the flower bed.

This gets boring…sometimes I dance with them.

       I paid my entrance fee and another fee to take photos of the Mural Diego was famous for.  There are 75 different points of interest all explained in both English and Spanish in front of the Mural.  I took pictures of it all and on the way out requested a copy of the explanations of the points of interest.  I expected they would have a copy to sell…stupid me…why would they do that.

      There is something to be said for a NON  socialistic government.  Mexico politicians are the most corrupt in the world. They milk their country with their monopolies granted to businesses they pay them big bribes… Walmart is one that comes to mind and on the other hand exploit their biggest resource…the cheap labor.  Keep them happy and low pay.  I walked right into the Museum of Tolerance  A great idea and another way of keeping them happy without paying them.  Propaganda.  Give gays the right to marry…doesn’t cost anything and actually creates another market to exploit. I suspect the Minister of Culture has his minions running things while he is on his boat cruising to Panama to visit his cronies instead of finding inexpensive ways of making money for the Ministry of Culture like selling printouts of Diego’s famous mural that could be sold for a couple of Pesos.

      I took some photos of a beautiful courtyard fountain and water sculpture with large pieces of artwork that cost plenty…but no water was running …it was all stagnant and created the opposite effect.  Next door was the Minister of Justice…that was fitting I thought. Then as I was leaving I passed through a gate back out into the street to witness over 150 riot police lined up in full gear expecting an attack or something.  I stopped taking photos and went back to the VIP restaurant I enjoyed when I first arrived. This was another solid food meal with no problems.  I returned to the hotel to pack and catch up on my reading. I asked my lovely desk clerk that I’ve fallen in love with about the news and riot police.  This is the one year anniversary of an extended postponement of an austerity measure that goes into effect today.  Many people will lose their jobs and protests have been going on all week.  Keep the people happy.  I don’t know if we had riot police protecting Washington when the tax cuts were due to expire?  I haven’t gone out much at all after dark. It turned out to be a response to the PEMEX methane explosion that killed over 30 people.

   My fantasy lover is now making my bus reservation as there are few seats left for tomorrow. Seems everyone wants to get out of the city on Friday and head into the country.  I hope I get a seat.  Bye Bye..see you in Oaxaca…I hope.

      I slept fairly well .  I woke once during the night and made 4 trips to the toilet before returning to sleep.  I think the NyQuil helped…no dreams, sweats or chills.
     I got directions to the nearest Doctor and decided to walk.  There was a bank on the way so I took out some more Pesos from the ATM and arrived at the Doctor’s office.  She saw me after a brief wait but didn’t speak any English so there was this very comical body language going on between us.  Especially when she wanted to give me an injection.  I dropped and bent over but she wanted me laying on the table not bent over…I moved around the table and bent over and she started laughing.  We both were laughing.  She charged me $9 for the injection and her consultation.  She told me to stop the lomitil and gave me three medicines with some re-hydration fluid.  I walked back a new man.  Total cost $35.

      Walking the streets I noticed a woman with a baby doll wrapped in a blanket close to her bosom.  Then a man walking with a basket with a baby doll in it.  Then another woman with a basket and a baby doll in it.  I asked the receptionist at the hostel about that.  She explained it is to prepare them for motherhood or fatherhood.  They were expecting a child in the family.

    I observed my first black person since leaving the plane at the airport.  There are a lot of openly gay and lesbians in Mexico City and they have the legal right to marry. My day consisted of returning to Sanborn’s for some solid food and a walk in the park with an ice cream.  I figured I lost about 50 lbs in the last two days and could indulge.  The city was getting to me.  Constant loud noises even in the hostal.  Tours through the hostal.  Business men etc.  Quite a noted place.  Mostly for the expensive restaurant and the architecture.  I found out about it in Dwell magazine for architects and designers. I sat around the hostal and played poker on the internet, read and when to bed.

It was another sleepless night with weird dreams, sweats, chills,etc.  I woke at 7 a.m. with the realization I had altitude sickness.    Fatigue, shortness of breath, hyperventilating  confusion, on and on.  I had read older people in Mexico City have a problem with this, especially if they have a respiratory problem to begin with.  I couldn’t find a pollution report on the Weather Channel or anywhere.  I did find out that Mexico City used to have the worst pollution but in the last two years it has improved to be on par with L.A.  I guess that is an improvement.   My diarrhea increased in frequency so I did the best to prepare for the long trip in the mini van. I took my lomitil (for diarrhea) and stocked a bunch to take with me.The diarrhea frequency has increased .   I had a bowl of cereal but no coffee.  It was to be the last food I ate except for a Flan later that afternoon.

      I had to find a bathroom at every stop and sometime go back twice in ten minutes.  I can’t tell you how many times that was today but my bottom is sore.           When we got to Taxco, a mountain silver mining village, I was having a hard time keeping up with my small group consisting of our 75 year old guide, Carlo from Santiago, Chile and a newly married couple from Buenos Aires.  The wife was pregnant. I sat on the sidelines most of the day.
     It wasn’t the altitude , which was less than Mexico city but climbing steep stairs and inclines.  The weather was perfect and the air was clean and fresh.  We did a tour that included another Cathedral built by a rich Mexican who had discovered the Mother Lode when it came to silver veins.  We broke for lunch .

Hector, our distinguished  Guide

  Carlo, the other couple and I while Hector was off visiting his friends.  I was in the toilet when the waiter came for the drink order. I returned just as the waiter was bringing the drinks and taking food orders.  He seemed put out when the gringo ordered water and a Flan.  The South Americans were conversing in Spanish.  I was wondering if I could have my water but our waiter was over chatting it up with the other waiters .  We were four of eight customers in the restaurant.  When I couldn’t get anyone’s attention, I went to the bar and ordered my water then returned.  I asked the lady if she had visited the United States yet.  She promptly replied she didn’t speak English or understood what I was saying.  PMS. Carlo learned to ski in Bellingham Washington while he attended college there on an exchange program and had been to Phoenix while visiting the Grand Canyon.  The lunch came and we exchanged travel experiences and enjoyed each others company.  She had a bad headache but now seemed friendly and cordial.  The bill came and everyone started counting Pesos.  USA is one of the few places where a tip is expected and a large part of the servers income.  I do believe we get better service as a result and the restaurateur can afford to staff te dining room properly.  I owed 61 pesos and just gave him 100 to keep while others were still counting out their Pesos.  I was waiting for the waiter to return with change for another 100 so I would be able to tip our guide when the time came.  Everyone was waiting outside when the waiter returned with my money and then put BOTH arms around me and hugged and thanked me.  Well appreciated 30% tip instead of 10%.  I think Raul will be my friend for life.
         When everyone was on free time, I sat in the plaza taking in the sights while talking to Hector our guide. He had been a guide for 50 years.  He impressed you as an educated college lecturer.  He had been shopping an bought a small hand drill like I used to have as a child, which was the last time I saw one like that.  He explained that when he has time off he enjoys a quiet life when at home.  His hobby is woodworking.  He asked what I do with my time in retirement.  I replied that when I’m not traveling, I enjoy golf and poker.  He asked if I was professional.  I explained both were only hobbies.  I have a story for you , he said.  One day , when I was a boy of 14, my father asked me to take the bus to Durango for an important errand.  I was to meet my Uncle at the main hotel in town.  There he would give me a package of money, lots of money, to return to my father soon.   I did as I was told but as I was leaving , there was a man in the lobby with some cards and he asked if I wish to take a game of chance with him.  I was young and naive so agreed to try one chance.  I used a little of my money and won some so when he thought I could win more.  I lost my money and all of my father’s.  The man gave me 150 pesos so I could return home.  When I arrived my father was so saddened.  The money he borrowed from his brother to pay off a loan he had taken for our home.  He was behind and in financial difficulty.  The police came and took him to prison when he couldn’t pay the loan and he lost our house too.   I have never held a card in my hand since then.
         When the day was over, I wasn’t sure I was going to make it to my bathroom even though we stopped once on the return trip. I did and then knew I needed some food.  I went to the 7 Eleven and stocked up on Activa.  Then stopped at the coffee shop to buy another solid yogurt and a muffin.  The Yogurt turned out to be whipped cream with jam on the bottom.  I drank a quart of Activa, took lomitil and NyQuil and am about ready to drop over.  The cramps and the stomach pain subsided but I can’t keep awake.

     I went to bed early to heal my body and rise early for my long day of travel to Taxco and Cuernavaca.  I hardly slept at all on my “pool table bed” and awoke with a rush to the toilet.  Not a good start.  I woke late and was to be picked up in 45 minutes.  I rushed to be ready.  The last tour, they arrived early.  It was 15 minutes after the appointed time when I asked the front desk to call them.  Dario returned with a message they would be there within 15 minutes.  Fifteen minutes later and I returned to find out there weren’t enough people for the trip and it was cancelled.  Welcome to Mexico.  This is not a problem nor is it unusual while traveling.
        Monday in Mexico City, most attractions are closed.  I remembered the Temple Major and the Monster / Egyptian exhibit so decided to have a nice real breakfast at Sanborn’s after catching up on my blog then head down there for the afternoon…after taking my anti-diarrhea pills. Never travel without them.
       Four gorgeous REAL blondes from Denmark or Sweden greeted me in the hall wearing their underwear.  I wasn’t ready for that small pleasure but it made up for the cancelled trip. My plans and I was not happy.  Not because they changed but because the tour company said they were running late and would be there in 10-15 minutes.  My guess is they wrote me off when they realized they hadn’t picked me up first and taken me to their station to pay before leaving.  They had left the tour company and were on their way out of town when they got the message to pick me up. Either way, it was inefficient and I was put out considerably.

    Sanborn’s was still serving breakfast when I arrived.  I ordered  scrambled eggs with chopped ham, a fresh juice, and a small roll greased down and toasted on a dirty grill.  The same one they scrambled my eggs on.  All this came with one of those frozen potato patty also fried on the dirty grill.  The juice was great and so was the toilet…thank God.  I took some photos of the building and walked around a bit after paying $14.  It was worth it to see the building.  I noticed the Mexican’s order coffee and a pastry and sit for an hour while reading a book or catching up with a friend.  I will return and sit at the lunch counter for coffee and a pastry. That is in a separate area and equally as beautiful.
      There was still some big event going on at the Zocalo as I passed by to the Tempo Major.  This is where they discovered the huge Aztec Calender Stone “Wheel” while doing a construction project near by in 1979.   It is now a protected archaeological site.  A Monster exhibit and one about Tutankhamen were being presented at the Colonial building next door.  I visited the Egyptian one but it was only replicas of the boy King , his mummy, and related items…they also had a nice toilet…thank God.  I met Jerry from Chicago who was skipping out on some work he was sent to Mexico City to do.  He didn’t have much time before he had to return but most all the good things were closed on Monday.  He was the only one with shorts on in the entire plaza.  Not that is wasn’t warm…but Mexican’s do not wear shorts, nor do the Spanish.  They are modest. I’m not but don’t want to be singled out as a gringo any more than necessary.

         I was returning to the hotel to shed some clothes when I passed the hotel I planned on staying at a few days before I flew back to the USA.  I stopped in and booked my reservation and noticed a tour agency so inquired about taking the tour I missed.  It costs me $20 more but they said they would show up.  I leave tomorrow.
      When I arrived at the Hostel, they were spray painting the bar in the Hostel open area and the fumes permeated everywhere.  I decided to run some errands and visit a recommended restaurant.  I purchased some toiletries at the Pharmacia  then half way to my goal, I realized I didn’t have my camera so decided to return Wednesday to take some pictures in the area.  The more I walked, the more pictures I wanted to take .If I was to return on Wednesday, I would have lunch at the restaurant then so stopped at McCafe to do this blog. Getting close to evening so will stop for a snack and say goodnight.

      Sunday morning, I planned on being at the Museum of Anthropology when they opening at 10 a.m.  I woke at 10:30 a.m. took the subway and arrived just before noon.  Three hours later I was exhausted and not finished seeing all the exhibits. The museum was world class and packed with family’s with a million children.  Every woman I saw was pregnant with 5 kids being herded by Dad.  The exhibits were divided by civilizations and sections of the country.  People coming from Veracruz would get a special program for that exhibit so it was like a history lesson with a little patriotism thrown in.   I must say all the children were very interested and many people were copying down the exhibit note in a book to refer to later.  Not to mention all the cell phone cameras.  I left very well informed and impressed.

                I had been on my feet and walking with nothing to drink or eat since 11 a.m.  I rushed through the last exhibits, walked to the subway stop while stopping for some water!  I drank a liter of water before getting on the metro and had to make a transfer, instead of going to to the Sunday Market, I got off at the Palace Belles Arte.  My concert was at 5 p.m. so cancelled the Market and found a Sanborn’s across the street.
            Sanborn’s are department stores, candy, jewelry  watches, restaurants , everything in Mexico.  The majority share holder is none other than Carlos Slim.  The richest man in Mexico and one of the richest in the world.  He makes two million dollars a minute.  Most from the exclusive ownership of Telephonica Mexico, and a dozen other Central and South American companies.  He wears a cowboy hat and is known to be a humble person having grown up in an upper middle class family.
       A Tuna salad plate and water cost me around $12 and the service was very friendly and prompt enough to get me across the street in time to get in line.  It turns out this is General Admission Concert in a small 400 seat auditorium NOT the grand Theater I had hoped to see.  I walked out during intermission as I was falling asleep.
      An ice cream  and a few photos later I was home after picking up some pastries for a early evening snack.  I have to rise at 7:30 for another tour trip to Taxco and Cuernavaca.  It will be a long day but I’m looking forward to it.  I haven’t run out of things to do.  It is more like the opposite.  I did cancel my trip to San Miguel Allende but Sergio said he has the room booked for me so if I want to change my mind I can.  I told him my plans were more in the South and I wouldn’t be returning until the end of the month.  If he could book me Feb 21-24 I would bus out to see him.  We will see what he says.  Manana.

      I slept late Saturday and awoke at 10 a.m. with sore legs from climbing the Pyramids.  I left for Canada Hotel to check the rooms and make a reservation on my return from Oaxaca rather then stay in the Hostel.  The room was small but had a TV, A/C, private bath and an internet connection. A big plus was a closet and the price…same as I was paying at the Hostel.  Leaving there I headed for the Cathedral at the Zocalo then on to the National Palace.  I took all the photos of Diego Rivera Murals, then many in the Art Museum before heading out to the gardens.  It was a beautiful warm , sunny day and everyone was out enjoying it. The noise level made me think there was a demonstration up ahead.  It turned out to be all the hawkers on both sides of the street yelling their wares, loud speakers with drums and music blaring.  If you add a few sirens, you get the idea.  I wandered to the Temple Major where an Egyptian exhibition was going on along with another of Monsters.  No clue what that was but decided to return next week.
    It was getting warmer so I decided to return to my Hostel and shed some clothes.  There was a Juice bar I couldn’t refuse.  I got an Acapulco, (Papaya, Pineapple, and Orange Juice), to go.  I freshened up and headed for the Palace Belle Arts , bought a photography ticket and toured the most beautiful Art Deco Building in existence.  There were Art exhibitions going on with over three different galleries.  I took a zillion photos but couldn’t gain access to the Theater, the piece de resistance.  I bought a ticket for a 5 p.m. Sunday performance of some Classical Music violinist so I could see the Theater.  I hope to see the ” Glass Curtain designed by Tiffany”.  My guide yesterday told me the Theater was like none other.  I was happy with the building.  I visited the restaurant but estimate lunch would set me back $50 and dinner $100.  That is the same price I would pay at the Hotel part of the Hostel I was staying at except there I would be sitting on benches in an cold outdoor area eating off wooden tables that looked like cable spools.
     I went through the Park to visit another Museum devoted to Diego Rivera but got lost.  Great thing to do in Historic Mexico City.  
      They say the city’s population is 25 million but the truth is the Federal District (City Proper) is 8 million with 17 million surrounded it like a belt.  When you pass through the belt where most of the people live in poverty and work daily in the city, you notice all the home look unfinished.  Bare Concrete with no roofs or re-bar sticking up.  They all have running water, electricity usually stolen from nearby, and cheap satellite TV.  The reason they never paint or finish construction is so they don’t have to pay taxes.  When an official shows up and wants to know why they haven’t paid any taxes in the last 25 years, they simple tell them they haven’t finished the house yet so don’t have to.

Cathedral in Zocalo

First View of Full Moon for Children and some Adults

Need Cash..get in Line…all over Mexico City

Metorites

Buddy can you spare a Dime, Shoes, Pant, anything?

Museum on Interaction

Organ Grinders everywhere, same Organ, Uniform and annoying same melody….same Company

Tuna’s… Mid-evil wandering Minstrels

But I love you and have a big house …I have my own Government…please Marry me?

Tweet this Dude!

Nice Post Office

 
    I was trying to find my way home and ended up in a beautiful old Post Office/Bank.  Then a Museum of Minerals, and an Interactive Museum before connecting to my street, getting a sandwich and Mocha Cafe before arriving at my Hostel.  Tomorrow I will visit the Museum of Archaeology that I have been told is one of the best in the world. Adios

Palicio Bella Artes

Noted for it’s Art Deco

General Admission is $2

Beethoven

           I walked the park next door then on the way back I noticed the line was longer and the door was still closed.  I wandered around and almost got lost as darkness approached and very few street lights.  I stopped in a restaurant for some delicious chicken enchiladas and a beer.  There I met two blokes from England that were touring Mexico and staying at my hostel.  They were returning to Plymouth in a couple of days and had been up North of Mexico City for about 3 weeks.  
    I finally found a tour company in the Hostel and booked a trip for Friday, my third day in country.  I was  headed for one of the major Pyramids.   I was to meet the mini bus at 9 am so after a shower I had a light breakfast and went to the Cafe for my Latte.  Not open…I went outside and the streets were pretty empty.  A lot of street sweepers.   People headed for work but few cars or traffic and all the shops closed.  I found a McCafe that was just opening.  I ordered my Latte but they couldn’t change a $200 Peso bill ($20) at 8:15 am.   I had to wait 10 minutes while they went to the office to open the safe.
      I noticed a Platoon of Policemen marching in formation down the street.  Their Sergeant assigning them to different street corners or subway entrances, and parks along the way.  There are police, private security and federal troops everywhere!   When the businesses do open, there is security posted in and one outside the business.  The one outside carries a rifle, pistol, or an  assault weapon. Armored vehicles pass in the street with soldiers in Riot gear.  The main square the police wear body armor , with helmets and shields.  Makes me feel safe when I see families with their children.
     Security knocked on my door to let me know Fernando arrived to take me on the tour.  We stopped a few places then picked up the last of the crowd near the Zocalo  where I paid the cashier .

Three Civilizations…Aztecs..Spanish…and Today’s

Ferdinand Loves his Job…and He is good at it.

The Meld of Spanish and Indian …White and Dark  The next stop was the Lady of Guadalupe.  The Spaniards were having a hard time converting the Aztecs to the Catholic  religion until 1531 when an Indian reported seeing an apparition of the Goddess they worshiped as the Lady of Guadalupe…it was as if she had transformed herself as both persons into one.  She was dark skinned though.  Then the Indians converted in groves to the Catholic religion and the Franciscan Monks baptized thousands on the same spot where the Basilica was built.

Millions of Pilgrims come here Dec 12 the Day the Apparition Appeared 1531

Bless you my family…leave your Money in the Box and don’t forget to visit the Vatican!

I am the Mexican Obama

Photo Taken from a Moving Walkway…there are 3 of them

       We stopped at a tourist shop and saw how the Agave plant is used to make cloth.  How the cloth is dyed with flowers and limestone. Then , of course, they make Tequila  and Mescal for us to taste.

You can Drink it and Wear it…amazing Algave

Salute’

Boy I love this job

We then had lunch and after were transported to Teotihuacan for a brief tour and two hours of free time to explore the city.  The is a civilization BEFORE (600 B.C.) the Aztecs, Mayans, or Inca.  It is called the City of the Gods because no one knows anything about this civilization.  When the Aztecs discovered their Temples, they inhabitants were gone so they believed they were Gods from heaven.  Later they speculated they were starving and a civil war broke out and they basically killed each other and the survivors died of starvation.

Rise up and Sing

Fernando with Groupies: Aussie father and twin sons.

David made 1st Level of Temple of the Moon

Temple of the Sun in Background…killer climb.

       We returned home around 6 pm and I booked another tour for my fourth day, Saturday to Cuernavaca and Taxco.  Octavio later had to change the tour to Monday so tomorrow I get to sleep in and return to the National Palace to finish taking the photos I lost my first day.