Author: David Taylor

          I enjoyed breakfast at Mag’s place this morning then walked to the Merced Mercado to visit.

I wandered around the Fonda’s checking out all the goods then walked to the Coffee House at the Opera House for a Pina Smoothie then bussed home where I met Neils parents visiting from Munich, Germany for the first time.  They will be here 6 weeks and are all excited.

        Tonight I was to meet Mag at 7pm again to visit El Mirador , a over 50 year old restaurant overlooking the city of Oaxaca from Fortin Hill near the Observatory.  I’ve been close to the area but no buses go there and I can’t walk up that Mountain.  Mag met me on foot and explained Miriam, his wife was working late with a client so we would walk over to meet with her and go from there. She was still working so we went ahead and had a beer waiting for her call to pick her up when she was done.  
      The view and the location were awesome.  We had a beer and talked about the business until we decided to order some soup …as soon as we did she called…so we put the soup on hold and Mag went to pick her and the children up while I moved into the restaurant from the balcony where the breeze was getting cold.  

      He showed up with the family shortly but we just had a drink, shared the view and conversation.  Both her son and daughter weren’t feeling well.  Alfredo was having a hard time with his allergies and her daughter was having migraines.  It was getting close to 10 pm so we decided to call it a night and returned home.

      Kay had emailed me requesting I join her for coffee at the Meridian Hotel at 10 am. I managed to arrive and had breakfast while she sipped her coffee and chatted with her Mexican family that adopted her. She wants to have a party when she returns.  It would be at her new place and will serve Mezcalini’s like we had at Casa Oaxaca. Casa Oaxaca won’t give us the recipe so I suggested we go to Biznaga.  The bartender/owner is very knowledgeable and willing to share.  

      She walked me back home to meet Mag at his restaurant while I picked up some Movies he had recommended. I then took her to my Oasis in Oaxaca to show her my studio and future 2 bedroom. She returned and I did Siesta then went back to meet her for dinner at Biznaga…and hopefully get the recipe we needed for her party. 
      We encountered a friend of hers that has a couple homes in Oaxaca and is quite well off. She was hosting a friend she went to first grade with in Greenville N.C. while growing up. She left after school and never returned. Married well and divorced even better. Now has a Penthouse apartment on Commonwealth Ave in Boston overlooking Cambridge and the Charles River.  I went shopping while Kay went to see something she wanted to show her. Kay met me at the park shortly after and we finally made dinner at Biznaga where my friend gave me his recipe for Mezcalini’s. 

BEFORE

AFTER

              We left to visit the Mezcal store he recommended for the Margey Sweetener for the drink.

 While there Kay wanted to try the Mezcalini’s at Danzantes famous Restaurant next door.  They had one they specialized in that I order and Kay got something else she rejected.  I drank them both then the hostess brought her a complimentary one that I had ordered and she rejected that…I didn’t.  The hostess gave us a complimentary drinks certificate to return.  We bid goodbye to a German couple that was traveling through to the Yucatan on a 3 week holiday and headed for the Zocalo.  I bought a blouse for Chris’s birthday and we ran into Katherine and her friend David at the Zocalo where they bought us a drink and we chatted a bit

. David had been to Oaxaca last year and next year was planning on Argentina.  He had traveled all the tourist spots in Spain and was an active businessman back in Greenville.  I walked Kay to her corner where Hash Harriers were out jogging, then hopped a taxi back while she walked home. Good night.

        I didn’t get out until around Noon. It was hot so after my Latte and Banana Nut Muffin at the Organic Market I cancelled the Merced Market and ate at Mag’s.  We confirmed our meeting for 7pm to go to Xoxocotacan Village for Night of the Witches. Music , drink (Atole), and oil lamps (only lights in the village) .  This is a special occasion ever Tuesday during Lent. Meanwhile the striking teachers had 15000 people show up at Llano Park and march to the Zocola this afternoon.  I hope they melted. I’m back at my Oasis wishing for Air Conditioning.

      I arrived at Mag’s but no one answered the bell. A gentleman came out from next door and when I told what I was doing he offered to open the door with his key so I could wait inside. His name was Fernando and he was Mag’s Mother-in-Law’s Significant other.  He called Mag who informed him that he was still working on a Cake Stand for a special party and Miriam, his wife would be picking me up shortly.  I choose to wait outside where the neighborhood was walking by. 

     Shortly Miriam showed up with her son Alfredo. Mag was with a friend of his that is a college professor and engineer. He was helping him design a custom Cake stand he was going to use for a special party.  It turns out that Mag bakes the pastries but Miriam just recently started decorating them.  She was an accountant like her Mother and had never done anything like that before.  She showed me her remarkable creations on her Smart phone. She is very creative. 

      We arrived at David’s home, the Professor, just as they were finishing up. David was Miriam’s Math teacher in High School!  He introduced himself and we left for Xoxocotacan. Mag is from Mazatlan but Miriam was a Oaxaca so knew the way.  There was lots a traffic and when we arrived it reminded me of the Fourth of July in Warsaw, N.Y. our County Seat in Western N. Y. where I grew up.  A crowded Carnival atmosphere with a huge stage erected by the church in the Zocalo with everyone sitting or standing to listen to the entertainment.

MAG AND ALFREDO

         Food stalls were all in one area with games and rides down the streets entering into the square. We listened to an orchestra of 16 year old students from a local village play different compositions.  They were dressed in their cultural dress.  The girls had their hair all braided and adorned with ribbons and flowers. When they played the Oaxacan State Anthem, all the lights came on and everyone stood up.  Not all the States have their own Anthem but Oaxaca is special. 

DAVID TRYING TO MAKE SOME PESOS

SOME PEOPLE DO NOT LIKE TO BE PHOTOGRAPHED

MY STATE TIS OF THEE

UNO MAS TAMALE POR FAVOR

         Mag and I joined Miriam, Alfredo, Fernando and Miriam’s Mom who were sitting on the grass and dancing to the music. We left for a Tamale table and I ordered Coconut Atole, a thick drink made with a Maize base that was delicious, to wash down my Chocolate and Pineapple Tamales I ordered.  We all sat together and chatted before parting ways. 
        Fernando and Miriam’s mother left and we walked around watching all the excitement.  I pitched Peso in hopes of winning more…wrong.  Then Alfredo offered me some darts to hit the balloons and win him a prize.  The harder I threw them, the slower they went.  One NEVER even got to the balloons!  I was embarrassed while Mag slinked away like he didn’t know me. 
     We found the car and on the way home, Mag invited me to go out Miecoles, Wednesday, with them for dinner at THEE restaurant with a view of Oaxaca from a top of Fortin Hill. I accepted and we agreed to meet at 7 pm again.  This evening would have been nearly impossible to do and especially to enjoy as much as I did without the company of such a wonderful, and generous family.

CHOCOLATE AND PINEAPPLE

     I stayed in today though the change in weather cooled Oaxaca down beautifully.  I did take the bus to meet Halina and Kay for dinner.

 We ended up at la Quince Letres.  It was nice but nothing special.

            We decided to try the Happy Hour at Hotel Azul rooftop where they gave us complimentary Mescalini’s.

 They didn’t seem to have any Mescal in them.  We decided to go down the street to Casa Oaxaca that is famous for their Mescalini’s and rightfully so. They shook and poured them at the table. They were good so we decided to meet their again tomorrow for more. 

     Leaving this morning I noticed everyone running around the corner and no one at the bus stop?  Looking down the street I saw a bus but it was parked in the middle of the street horizontal blocking the road.  You guessed it…another teacher’s protest preventing all those that want to work from getting there or arriving late.  I had to walk fast to make my meeting with Zoey…legs cramped up in such pain.   I met Zoey, a traveler and CouchSurfer, at the Library this morning for coffee.  We went to a Cafe on Los Libras nearby.  She and I had a nice conversation over Breakfast and walked back to Llano Park where I caught a bus home. 
     I visited Mag and brought him some Feta cheese I hadn’t opened and probably wouldn’t. We talked a bit and I mentioned the Night of the Witches that I was to visit on Tuesday, tomorrow.  They were going so he invited me to meet them at 7pm at the restaurant and spend the evening with them. 

      Perfect…now I had to meet Halina and Kay. It was Halina’s last night so I treated them to Mescalini’s and I had a fantastic Chili Stuffed with Scviche! So good.  
     We then headed for La Olla and Bill Pumphrey’s Birthday celebration on the rooftop terrace.  About 20 people showed up and we had a really nice time. Bill treated us with his Social Security…said he  couldn’t spend it all in Mexico so wanted to treat everyone.  We left after about 2 hours of fun, jokes , and conversation…oh yeah…drinks and munchies.
   

   Kay and I bid Halina a safe trip home .  Another great night.

        Sabado is Fin.  What a day. If I don’t stay up and put something down, I lose track.  God is paying back for all those hours of being a couch potato.  Now I am not allowed to waste time.  It is great.  I haven’t been this immersed in life since I was a child.  You can’t sit still here.

          When I lived in Yartareni, in the country…some days I wouldn’t come to town or the days I did, I always had my evenings on the terrace to watch the sunset and rise.  Living in Oaxaca I seldom have time to play a game of Sudoku or read or watch a movie or sit. I don’t have to do anything until 4 pm tomorrow…yay!..but it’s almost midnight…I may sleep until then.

     First I have to recount the day… This morning a had my fruit and yogurt with coffee.  I dug out my storage boxes to find my Q tips and my Motrin.  I posted my review of the neighborhood restaurant in the Oasis in Oaxaca to help my friend build his business next door.
       I hopped a bus to Conzetti Park this morning for a Flea Market.  I arrived early so had the Cuba Tortas Especial at the corner stand….best Tortas in Mexico. $3 and a bottle of water. It was hot. The flea market was setting up.  I almost bought the Beatles vinyl Abbey Road album in mint condition but realized I no longer have a record player. Cacti I would have bought for my place if I was going to be here more than three more weeks. The heat was killing me and so were my legs.

      I hopped another bus to Kay’s place to ask if it was OK if we didn’t go to Biznaga for late lunch as planned.  She greeted me and informed me that she had seen Halina this morning and invited her to join us and she would be arriving at 1 pm…10 minutes.  We agreed to go back to Santa Fe for Comida instead.  Closer, cheaper and Harina hadn’t been there. She arrived on time and we chatted for an hour.

            I was energized now so we took our time and eventually ended up getting a warm welcome from Fernando at the door.  We all agreed on the same entree and were promptly served a great Sangria with chopped apples, pears, and peaches .  We all agreed it was a good choice with our meal…which turned out to be fabulous…and all for $5.60.
       We dropped Kay off at her door and Halina invited me to see her place. When we approached her neighborhood she noticed an open door with three older gentlemen sitting on buckets in a garage drinking homemade Mescal out of the bottle and singing songs while one played the guitar.  They saw her and invited us in to join them…we did.

We all introduced ourselves. Jorge,Sergio, and Fernando…the Tres Amigos.  A few Mescal’s later they sang a song for us then we thanked them and I went next door to see Halina’s beautiful courtyard and roof top terrace with a view.  She introduced me to a young lady from Switzerland that lived in the room next to hers then showed me her studio which was spacious and attractive…and CHEAP.  She will return there next year so we will still be neighbors.

      I got back just in time to take a quick nap.  Then a wind storm came and the temperature dropped so it was cool enough to change into long pants and long sleeve shirt and out the door to catch a bus.  I arrived at our designated meeting place in the Opera House coffee shop.  Kay was waiting as Halina and I showed at the same time.

         We left shortly for an Art opening at the Governor’s Mansion…the Zocalo was packed!  There was a stage set up but no one playing so we went to the Art opening where they were serving Orange flavored homemade Mescal and Mescal punch.  Kay doesn’t drink but Halina and I jumped in line after visiting to exhibits.
        We left shortly and decided to sit near the stage so we could hear the music that was just beginning.  These were Oaxacan Tuna’s, part of a world organization of Spanish Minstrels that date back to the Medieval times. A waiter invited us to the fancy Tres Bistro upstairs where we could view the whole affair from a window seat near the balcony.  We accepted and I ordered another Pizza for the third evening in a row…with some wine of course.

 The staff was great. Harina had a beer and Kay had her usual water.  We shared the Pizza and complimentary Fresh cooked Sweet Potatoes Chips while listening to the music and chatting.  When we were leaving, Kay noticed a Bread display and asked the Chef and Manager that were saying goodbye if she couldn’t ‘t buy a loaf to take home…she did and we left.
         The Tuna were off the stage and in the crowd.  I went over and chatted with them before we turned to a Latin band that was entertaining the crowd.  A group in front of us turned out to be Polish tourists on a two week holiday from Krakow where Halina is from.  We all introduced ourselves and she volunteered to show them around.  They accepted and Kay and I left with the agreement we would all meet Domingo at 4 pm at Kay’s home and Halina would treat us as her going away present.

         I stopped at a stand after dropping Kay off to sample some of the gelatin products I see everyday.  I discovered it was as I thought…Jello.  It is a big deal here but not for me. I arrived at my gate just before midnight…exhausted.

    Oaxaca is warming up.  We have a few cool afternoons with clouds and then intense sun and hot.  I’ve taken to hiding in my room during the afternoon. Siesta is nice and then out in the cooler evening and up late reading travel stories about Mexico or watching The Endangered Civilization Series.  The problem is I don’t wake early like before so I miss the cool mornings.  Oh well.  I have another lecture tonite at the library but will NOT eat out.  I have two leftover Pizza’s in the refrigerator that need attention.   
     The lecture, was a Video “Take Back Your Power” …an awesome documentary about the control and manipulation of world energy by six of the top corporations in the world…all oil, gas, and energy related…and all done with the complicity of polititians throughout the world with the use of Smart Meters and Wi-Fi Radio Frequency Microwave Radiation.  See the trailer: 

Take Back your Power

Why work out when you could be with me?

       I  sat    with Susan Lyons, the lady lecturer from the night before.  After, I walked to the Zocalo for a glass of wine, music , and cup of corn then the taxi home.  Great night.
    Finally I awoke at Dawn, walked to Cafe Azul I had wanted to try.

 It was very nice kind of hippie place with Free Tibet signs Mate and Chai Tea, Hummus, Strudel, Huevos Rancharos, etc.   I had the Latte and Strudel…excellent. 
      I walked through the Zocalo over to my Internet place and printed a review with photos of Mag’s place to post at the library and at my Oasis in Oaxaca.  
     I visited the library and posted my review while chatting with Bill Pumphreys from Winter Texas…third generation.  He showed me his book Life is a Roller Coaster and what a Ride.  I’m going to read it.  He is an excellent person and storytellers. Peace Corp in Tanzania after graduating from U of Texas then on to inner city all black school in Philly at the time Martin Luther King was shot…worked for Cisco and traveled over the world. Now a full time resident of Oaxaca.  

      I bought a shirt at the Llano Park Friday Market and took the packed bus to Mag’s place for Comida then Siesta.  I woke and returned to the library in time for a movie.
      It was Nebraska, done in Black and White starring Bruce Dern and Stacy Keach.  Great story and good acting.  Kay was there so we decided to try someplace different but first she asked me to push Gloria home in her wheelchair.  It was a short push but scary…crossing street in busy Friday night traffic and going up and down curbs.  Gloria invited me in for wine.  Kay and I declined but what a beautiful place.  It was all ART.  She had her own Art Gallery and half of it was there. Kay and I ended up at the Azul Hotel…very upscale

restaurant where she had the Tlayuda and I had the Chicken Breast Stuffed with Shrimp and Cheese topped with Tamirindo Sauce and a side of Fresh Saute Mushrooms with Parmasan.  We split a Carrot Cake with Orange Cotton Candy and Fruit…all of it was excellent.  We decided to go to a Happy Hour on the roof some evening for Mescalini’s.  Great day.

          I had breakfast at Mag’s place again.  He had to rush out and offered to put the HD 60″ TV on English for me.   I hadn’t watched TV, except for an occasional local Phoenix newscast on the internet, since I left Scottsdale.  I declined and read my paper with my coffee then left for the library. 

        Tere got me some towels this morning so I was going to return Kay’s I borrowed but she wasn’t there.  I walked over to her place, returned the towel and invited her to join be for lunch at the Sante Fe.  We walked over, had a great lunch then I returned for a 3-5 pm Siesta.

        It is hot between 2-5 pm this time of year and no A/C in most of Oaxaca.  I showered when I awoke then took the bus to the Zocalo . I noticed about 10-20 % of the riders would bless themselves everytime we passed a church.  I remembered doing that when I was 10 but lost interest shortly thereafter.  It was comical to see them all at once bless themselves.  You have to imagine we passed about 5 churches on the way.   I expected bells to ring and the bus driver to give a sermon.

        I wandered around taking in the large amount of families with children, couples , all out enjoying the cool evening.   Then I treated myself to a big juicy hamberguesa on the street.  All for $2 and delicious.  I walked back home after dark.  Most businesses were open on Monday evening and the streets were bustling.

It is totally different at night.  My neighbor was not out on the balcony but a new one moved in below me. I wanted to get one poker game in before bedtime.
        While visiting the library Tuesday I came across Halina, the Polish lady with one week before returning to Michigan and not happy about it.  She wanted to see my new place and on the way out we ran into Kay who agreed to meet us for Comida at Mag’s M & M Cafe in La Noria.  We would all go visit my place after. 
       Halina and I took the bus as it was so hot.  She had never ridden the bus in Oaxaca and typical of me, I got on the wrong bus so we still had to walk a bit before arriving at Mag’s around 2:30. 
         When 3 rolled around we decided not to wait any longer and ordered our food.  It was fantastic as usual and all for 35 Pesos.

 
After showing her my place we walked over to Aso Villas nearby to show Halina their new Cafe.  She lived there last year and knew the neighborhood well.

 There was Kay wandering around in circles.  She had been walking for 2 hours and was determined to find us.  I gave her my map and explained but she appeared to be dehydrated and disoriented.  We stopped at the Aso Cafe so she could get some liquid and food in her.  We all went our separate ways.  
      The weather had cooled down and it was nice so I read a little instead of a Siesta then around 7 I went to an Italian place Mag had recommended for Pizza.  The Viejo Libre was attractive and gave professional service.  Two glasses of wine and a 1/2 Pizza later, I took a taxi home.

      Wednsday I shopped a bit and went to Mag’s again for Comida. Shoshona was there chatting with Mag so I invited her to join me.  She is a pleasant young Jewish girl from Chicago whose brother just joined the Israel Army.  She leaves the end of this month to return.  She came here  after losing her job a Trader Joe’s.  She had moved and had to ride her bike in the snow, board a bus and return the same way.  She loved working for them but when she was forced to move, they couldn’t transfer her to the store near her and eventually she quit, packed it up and arrived in Oaxaca quite by accident.  We had a great lunch and I told Mag about my Pizza experience with the place he recommended and I concurred.  Very good. 
         

  I walked back to Oasis with Shoshona and she showed me her cubby hole next to Tere’s place.   After a Siesta I took the bus to the library for my lecture by Susan Lyon’s from Jamacia Plain Boston.  She was a world traveler and did a great job talking about Simplifying your life.  She did a powerpoint presentation, engaged the audience and for $4 gave us 1 1/2 hours of entertainment.  It was inspiring.

         Kay had given me a 5 CD collection of the Endangered Civilizations she had taken out of the library.  I renewed them in my name after the lecture on getting rid of the clutter in your life, I invited Kay to join me for dinner.  We were going to a Cafe then a Documentary movie called The Act of Killing but changed our minds when I discovered it was a ways away and we would have to rush our meal.  We returned to the Hotel Parador to split a Pizza.  The Chef made it from scratch and though tasty enough it really wasn’t a Pizza.   
             

We took some home and I returned down deserted streets with police patrols driving around the area with their Red and Blue lights flashing to make their presence known.  Also a military armed patrol in a jeep  came through to insure the area was going to stay safe.  I had been approached twice on separate occassions for money by men saying they were Guatamalan’s trying to excape to the US.  The first time I gave some change but the second I suspected a scam. I took a refreshing shower and retired.

        I moved into my condo in San Augustine Yartareni June 2013 and started making plans for a garden on my terrace, improvement list to bring back from Arizona, etc.  I bought new pillows for the bed, cushions for the chairs, decorative vase with flowers, a clothing stand and a memory foam pillow top as well as a Microwave.  My cheery new home away from home.
     Alas the trips back and forth to Oaxaca,  shopping and lugging things home on the bus, going back and forth twice in a day sometimes, returning late at night in the dark, and the final straw…the dogs barking.  I even thought about buying a place that I could control somewhat, but in the end I’m moving.  I will see how my new place works out next year and already have alternative places if it doesn’t.  During that time, the neighborhood has added a car wash, motel, a pedestrian bridge over the highway, an automobile repair shop, a recycling business, a copy shop, another bar, and all the businesses have expanded their hours.  I suspect this is all because of the new Walmart complex going up just down the road from the new disco.
      This was to be a leisurely day with no plans.  I dropped my last load of laundry off and hopped the bus into town.  

When I exited my normal stop next to the main ADO Bus station I noticed police, hooded protesters, more riot police, the ADO was surrounded by protester and had been spray painted.

 I stopped by the library to find out what it was about.  Seems the teachers are at it again and they’ve enlisted the aide of student protesters…last night they went on a rampage in town and spray painted some more but I didn’t notice much except the bus station and really don’t know what the issues are except for what the spray painted building tells me.   
      I had lunch at the Zocalo, listened to an accordion and bongo player, and ran into Zoey, a couchsurfer traveler from Salem Oregon that I previously contacted.

ONLY WALK IN THE SHADE

      I had emailed Zoey before I returned this winter.  I was browsing the Oaxacan CouchSurfers and recognized her from my stay during the summer.  I never met Zoey until today.  I had written and invited her for coffee when I returned but she was in Asia.  When she returned she emailed me for coffee but needed a couple weeks to readjust after her Asia trip. Her Profile said she liked the “Dead Can Dance” and I have all their albums.  Very unique and unusual band as is Zoey as a person…at least her manner of dress. She was meeting someone for lunch so we didn’t talk much.  I did ask how she was adjusting to being back in Oaxaca?  She said it was like an out of body experience like a nice dream.  It feels good. 

       People that come here are drawn to stay by some unknown , unexplainable force. You can say the weather, the friendly people, the beauty, the food, the energy…the ghosts of civilizations that occupied the Americas 10’s of thousands of years ago…are still here.  17 different languages, cultures, …there is no putting it in words.
   I took the bus home entertained by a blind Harmonica player.  

    Today I dropped the last of my trash off and paid the Senora when a MotoTaxi pulled up so I jumped in with a huge bag of clothes for storage at Oasis in Oaxaca, paid the man as the bus pulled up and ran to catch it.  Just after I boarded, I realized I got on my usual bus…NOT the one that drops me at Oasis. Meanwhile a lady boarded selling Children’s DVDs or cartoons to babysit your child by.

 I exited and caught the real bus to Oasis where Tere greeted me and showed me to the 2 bedroom apt so I could take some photos..then to the studio where I will be staying this month.

 I took some photos, paid the rent, got the keys and visited Manuel at his restaurant for breakfast. Coffee, fresh OJ, basket of bread with Scrambled eggs accompanied by beans and cheese.

Delicious. He joined me and we rambled on about our careers, his deportation the hospitality business, our love of poker and blackjack before he had to return to work.  I gained even more respect for him, his professionalism, attitude and talent. We will see more of each other and play poker soon. 
       I visited the Zocalo and noted a large crowd.  I was surprised to see a man with assorted herbs, plants, and vegetables.  He was explaining the medicinal use of each one while demonstrating how to prepare it for the use. Striping an Aloe to get the gel, etc. He sold a print out of them and their properties.  It was in Spanish so I passed.  On the return bus trip was a lady selling top one million hits all on one CD.
     I packed all day Saturday and sorted…take home vs leave for November.

 Sunday I rose and brought everything, boxes, suitcases, microwave, pillows, clothes, memory foam mattress etc down the stairs to the landing and went to the buffet restaurant where I told the guard I needed a taxi to move it all to Oaxaca.  The cook came over to me and explained he worked four years in the US and learned to cook and speak English in a restaurant.

 My kinda guy.  I told him I would pay the driver 400 peso to help load, deliver and unload my belongings.  When I finished it was a short wait before the driver arrived.  In Spanish he said what I thought to be 500 pesos.  I was planning on giving the guy a big 100 peso tip anyway so hopped in and we went to Villa Antiqua to pick everything up.  The taxi driver loaded and reloaded until the taxi was full with me sitting in the front with a Microwave in my lap and a coat rack.  He asked for the key to lock up but I couldn’t get it out of my pocket and told him to forget it.   I couldn’t move but was so happy to do this in one trip…half way there I realized I had left my hat and my computer upstairs.  I thought he was going the wrong way because it wasn’t the way I showed him.  I said you have to turn…he looked at me and said…your Casa…and pointed .  I was amazed…we were at the front door!   Tere was there with her husband when I opened the main gate to allow the cab to back in.  She was surprised at so much stuff but very cooperative. I explained I would assist her after I put away my stuff to go in the room and had to return to Villa Antiqua for my computer.  We drove back and he asked if I wanted him to drive me back…I was thinking I already agreed to pay 500 pesos before I asked to return and it is so cheap just to take a bus but then was tired from the move and agreed .  I decided then to take the food in the refrigerator too .   In a minute I was back in the taxi and at my front door in Oaxaca.  Now was the reckoning. I first handed him 500 pesos…expecting him to wait for more but he started reaching for change.  He was giving back 400 pesos! His original charge was 50 not 500 pesos…$4…he added another 50 to do another round trip..to 100 total…I gave him the 500 Pesos and got his name and number for when I need a driver to take me to the airport and pick me up when I return.  I was very pleased and he worked so hard.  Then he told me that he lives next door to me!  That’s how he found his way to my door so easily.  

     I gleefully unpacked my clothes, computers, kitchen utensils, food, water dispenser, memory foam , bedsheets, toiletries, etc.  Then I went about reorganizing everything.  I took down shelves, knick knacks, pillows , junk into storage, put out my wastebaskets, chairs, clothes rack etc….and now have a nice neat organized place that is hotter then hell right now…so I left to find a towel…that is packed away in November’s stuff, detergent…same…and to relax in the Zocalo. The family I saw before when visiting Helen were still here and outside with their children.  I introduced myself and met Neils from Munich who is waiting for his house to be remodeled.  They told him 5 weeks…ha…yeah…Mexican time?  He is friends of Roland…the father of Kay’s lady ladies children.  Roland left last summer but missed his children so returned.  He and Neils were friends and were considering a German Brewery in Oaxaca.  I told them if they bought me a beer I would give them advice.  Nice man though Helen said there infant child crys a lot in the night.
            I met a young family at the bus stop that lived in the states for four years.  The young lady and her sister spoke English fluently and were friendly.  Daddy had his arms full with a baby.  I hopped the first bus and was at the Zocalo in minutes sipping a latte listening to listless jazz on a Sax played by an elderly gentleman…my age.  I felt energized and walked across to a small grocery store but no towels or detergent but there was Kay with a group having her coffee.  I introduced myself and they invited me to join them for dinner at the newly opened Hotel Parador.  Gary and Coral from B.C. Canada knew the Chef and recently discovered this gem that took 14 years to restore to it’s glory.  It was elegant, with fountains in the center of an open courtyard and a second level balcony surrounding the dining room with an open sky above the courtyard. The Chef greeted us and a waiter promptly sat us in an empty dining room.  I perused the menu to discover some amazing dishes and CHEAP prices.  The Chef , from Mexico City, trained in Santa Barbara, Florence , Genoa, Madrid before returning to Oaxaca.  His father is Italian so he acquired dual citizenship for Mexico and Italy which allows him to work and travel anywhere in the European Union.  His plans are to leave before next year and open a restaurant in Europe.  My Shrimp Cocktail was not enjoyable…to sweet and poor quality shrimp…plus the presentation was not professional.  The salads for the ladies were very nice and well presented.  Gary’s Spaghetti with side Veggies was well done and he said great. My Chicken Cordon Blue with Tamarind Sauce never came until they were almost done.  It was dry and overcooked with no cheese inside that I could tell.  The Sauce was superb.  I rushed through it because they were finished and looking at the bill.  I would go back and will but will order more Italian…which he seemed to do well.
      We bid them goodbye, as they were leaving tomorrow, and agreed we would see them again next year.  Kay showed me the new place she hopes to move to.  It has more of a community in the complex and is lovely.  I didn’t get to see the studio as she doesn’t have it yet, only a bid on it when she returns…whenever.  I walked her home and she gave me a towel.  I stopped for some Cheetos and detergent then arrived to find my neighbor blocking the balcony with her desk and computer.  It is hot in the rooms so the balcony is where I am also.  I asked for the password and she asked if I speak French.  Ha I thought…the last language on my list…I took 4 years in High School.  I assumed she was French Canadian from Montreal.  Very pleasant and gave me four passwords for four accounts here…depends on which you want to sign in on.  I signed in on one and after 15 minutes of swearing I may have to complain about this…I switched to the “fast” one.  Very pleased.  Fastest connection I’ve been on in Mexico and right across from where I’ll be staying for 5 months the next time. Yippie.  So ends my day.

     None of these photos have anything to do with what I wrote on this Post..only to keep you entertained.

I don’t remember much of the last few days.  It hasn’t been anything of special interest except ….the dogs are taking over.  Every night I wake to the barking dogs.  These are roving ferrel dogs that sleep around all day then bark all night.  Yes the landlady’s dogs also get involved which is why the ferrel dogs come around to my window as her dogs are just inside the wall in her patio.  The others gather near the doors and they bark back and forth…and back and forth. Last night was IT…I woke and emailed my future landlady:

           Things in San Augustine Yartareni have gotten worse.  The downstairs dogs that bark all day are now barking all night along with 7-9 others in the neighborhood.  I can’t sleep and am packing now.  Do you have a studio available from March 23rd (Move in day) to April 23rd (Move out day) ?  If so , let me know ASAP so I can give notice to my landlady… 

her reply:  

 I have 2 studios available, one is downstairs and other upstairs, which one do you prefer? I wait your answer. Tere

my reply:  either one …see you on the 23rd.

        Now I have a week to pack…though I packed almost everything last night.  I bought some used boxes that a MiniMart store sells for 4 Pesos each…brought 4 of them back and think I’m almost ready to move.  Laundry to do etc. 

Blind Entertainer and daughter

     I went to the Zocalo Sunday …the dogs were at it again.  Kay was there with a new friend from Poland that she picked up at the library.  I’ll call her Marissa but forgot her name.  She was my height, age, lived in Michigan, had a cleaning business, and traveled every chance she could. This was her third winter visiting Oaxaca and she was quite intelligent and a pleasant soft spoken person.  We all went to the Meridian Hotel near Kay’s house for coffee and talked for almost an hour and a half about our travels and future plans.  Kay is leaving Oaxaca in May to return to Sacramento and help her bi-polar daughter who lost her job .  Kay is in her seventies and still full of life.  She is giving up her nice studio apartment so conveniently located.  

          I returned to Yartareni with two buses…one had an accordion player and his lady friend accompanying him with some gourd she strummed. Then the other bus, three “Rappers” got on with a portable Karaoke machine and microphone. I was pleasantly surprised.  I didn’t understand any of the “Rap” song but they harmonized and worked the crowd good.  Got a lot more money from the crowd then the other guy.
           That evening I almost burned the condo down . I was microwaving a meal and the lights started flickering then went out.  When I checked the fuse box …the fuse was fried.   I reinstalled another then that evening I used the microwave again and the power went out.  Checked the fuse box and it was HOT.  The fuse was fried again.  I only have one fuse left so disconnected the Microwave and decided to put a FOR SALE sign in the library.  When I went to put the new fuse in…sparks flew.  I think the box was fried or at least some of the wire.  It was dark so I forced the fuse in and flipped the switch.  ….

Bet your wondering.  Well it sparked but then seemed OK.  This was Sunday so I was going to give my notice to the landlady on Monday.  I will have her send an electrician , Usi the everything man, out to check it.  I shut down everything that night except the refrigerator and a light to see by.  Monday I put in notice with my landlady and reported the fuse box problem.  She understood.  

         When I arrived at the library to post my Microwave for sale and a recommendation for the Vina Santa Fe restaurant, it was closed for Benito Juarez Day. It was St. Patrick’s Day too.  Benito was the shortest President in the world at 4 and 1/2 feet.  He did accomplish a lot but it didn’t look like I was that day.  Many businesses were closed but I did find two places open to fax my documents for the VA back to the USA.  Neither of them could get the fax to go through.   I found Allen reading a book at the Zocalo and had coffee with him before returning home to discover I was using the wrong number.
      That evening my Gas ran out so I would have no Hot water or stove until I got more Gas. I emailed the landlady and the next morning Usi, her handyman showed up.  He called the Gas company and looked at the fuses but now it was all OK.  Must have been the Microwave that overloaded the circuit.  I’m now waiting for the delivery so I can go into town and attend to my day.  Usi said it would be at least 2 hours.  Three hours later the gas truck arrive and for about $25 replaced one of the two tanks so I could heat up a meal, and wash the dishes before heading into Oaxaca to fax the documents. 

Siesta

      I returned to my favorite Internet hub but a different lady was on and said I had too many numbers to make a call.  A customer came over to help as she didn’t understand and was a bit unfamiliar …after writing and rewriting, explaining and re explaining she finally attempted to make the call but was unable to figure out how to even get a dial tone.  I went to the other place and they tried but it failed because either the FAX number was busy, the fax machine was out of paper, or the electric was out.  I said I’d try later and went down the street, got on my computer and emailed the fax office to let them know.  They wrote back that all was fine and nothing came through.  I returned and tried an hour later with the same results. I emailed again to verify the fax number but never got a reply…may have closed the office early or just didn’t pick up the email.  I’ll try tomorrow for the third day.  Must be the full moon.

            I did manage to print out my last Direct TV statement and it looks as though we finally got want we asked for and the new service is reasonable for this year…next year I think it doubles and the contract is for two years with a $500 cancellation.  I did write them to make sure they discontinue a free trial on the addition Movie program we were told was free for three months.  We don’t want any surprises or a Movie program. Turns out Don or I have to call ourselves and cancel.

        I left early to make an World Organic Food show that started at 9 am and went all day.  I arrived but there was no show or event.  After double checking the calandar I was right and the event must have been cancelled so I went right to a new Fax office but nothing connected so visited the library and looked up my Desert Mail Office where my Post Box is picking up my forwarding mail.  I know they have a fax.  Took the papers next door to a fourth fax  machine after emailing Chris to call them and let them know.  She said they would contact her when the fax came in but alas it didn’t go through.  
       Bill came into the library and took photos of the documents then attached them to an email to Chris.  That worked but the documents were too poor quality to fax.  I went back to the pro fax shop with the new number to call but he said it connected…then disconnected. 

       I returned home, took my own photos then edited them and attached to an email to Chris.  Ta Da…it worked and she printed them out then took them to the office to fax to the VA.  You guessed it…they didn’t go through.  She emailed me to verify the number …I suggested she call the VA and verify it so they know a fax is arriving.  Well that would have been fine but instead…she got my voice mail.  I gave her my Skype number by mistake.  I gave her the new number and that is the last I heard.  What a day…and it was hot today so very tiring.      

   Helen returns to Western New York and her dog Cashew in a couple days. Sunday I bussed into town to make some copies, paid for them and bussed home.  A young lady boarded the bus and greeted everyone with a polite hello as she traversed the aisle with her guitar in hand.

 She introduced a Capella song then sang it beautifully.  She then played her guitar while singing 2-3 songs before collecting some money then exiting to board another bus.  I really enjoyed her and her personality was so warm.  Her voice was pleasant too. I arrived home to discover I had left the copies in the print shop.
       Today I completed my taxes and printed them all out then headed for Sam’s Club and my last big shopping spree.  I was returning when I realized I was charged for 5 Kilos of Tangerines and bought 2.  So I overpaid $3 but still was frustrated over Mexico’s system of retail stores.  Never any change, items incorrectly marked, 5 bosses and one worker, lousy service, …but I do love living here. I do sometimes think the Assistant Mgr and the Cashier have a scam going.  I was waiting for a price check for 15 minutes..the lines were long, finally they opened another register for the  people in my line…they were pissed.  I was pissed and I knew and told the cashier the price…12.75 pesos.  

They were going through catalogs of fine print for TANGERINES.  2 Kilos of Tangerines. I packed everything in my bag except this bag of Tangerines.  It was on a Credit Card and finally the Cashier went into the produce section , returned and announced something in Spanish, rang in the item, pressed the button and out popped a Charge for 50 Pesos…4 times the price. I didn’t see it of course. The tangerines went into the cart the receipt was processed, people were still in line so I signed and took the receipt and started for the exit when I saw the discrepancy…I turned and looked at the line of people that would say…that idiot Gringo complaining because he couldn’t speak proper Spanish. Meanwhile the cashier and Assistant Mgr. are meeting in the parking lot after work to split the take for the day.
         Today’s bus entertainment was a hombre selling snake oil.  It was an herbal tea that cured everything. He wasn’t as enjoyable as the lady yesterday but as an added attraction the bus driver got pulled over by a  Motorcycle Policeman.   I think he bribed him because he jumped back into the bus with a big smile then drove 60 mph down the city street laughing.
             I did review all my taxes, signed, dated, stamped and addressed  for Helen to mail for me from the states.  The bus dropped me at her door.  I went to visit the landlady Teri first.  I paid her a month’s deposit of 7000 Peso for November and left some things for storage until I returned on the 20th of April with the rest of my items.  I was to treat Helen for her farewell Comida at a restaurant that Courtney and I visited some time ago.  We didn’t eat there but late Courtney did later and highly recommended it.
       We stopped at the library where I met Ian from near Toronto.  He and his wife are just finishing up their 4th visit to Oaxaca in the winter.  He told me about a 2 bedroom near where I will be staying for only 6000 Pesos.  Helen and I took notes for next year.  I hope to find a year round 2 bedroom place so I can host travelers , sublet, and have my friends and family visit.
     We found the Vina Santa Fe Restaurant where Fernando greeted and seated us.  He remember Courtney and me.  The meal was fantastic as was the service.  We had a Red Pepper Creme soup with Wine, a Salad

, Potato Pancakes, Beef dish , and Fish followed by Mango and accompanied with a Jamaican Cocktail of Rum and Juice.
     We returned to Helen’s and she gave me all her leftover food…yogurt, fruits, veggies, cheeses, beer, Scotch, etc.  I walked to the Chedraui Grocery and bought the few things I still needed then boarded the wrong bus to Santa Lucia and ended up a couple miles away from my house.  A Taxi delivered me for 60 Pesos…54 more then the bus.

 I was home and planning a meal.  Black Bean soup and I made some Rice Pilaf for my stir fry and to go with Saute Chicken…for three or four meals. Adios Elena!

       I think if I spent as much time studing Spanish, as I do playing On Line Poker, I would be speaking it fluently by now.  Hopefully it will all pay off when I return to Talking Stick Casino in May! Then I can study my Spanish more.  Started to pack already.  I’m putting as much as I can in storage and hope to return with a near empty suitcase.  I won’t have to pack for Mexico in November either.

Morning Walk

     Helen, another foodie, talked Mag, our Chef friend, into opening his restaurant just for us today.  He is preparing a whole fresh Red Snapper for us to dine on.  I should stop and get some wine to bring. Yesterday I visited the Friday Llano Park Market, bought a new cap and stocked up with some limes and Mangoes. I had lunch at a Sushi place then picked up some boxes and my laundry before returning home.
     The bus from my stop in the country, dropped me at Helen’s front door but I was early so no one answered the knock on the outside door of the compound.

 I walked around the neighborhood for 15 minutes and returned.  This time Helen was waiting.  We shared a Scotch and conversation in the garden before heading for M & M Coffee and Snack to meet Magdiel our Chef.

 The table was set, we broke out Helen’s wine, Mag greeted us and 10 minutes later a beautiful Salad was presented with a basket of bread.

Shortly came a platter of fresh Green Beans with onion and bacon along with another platter of Rice Pilaf…then came the Main Act.

 A beautiful platter with a butterflied Whole Red Snapper Baked with a Tomato and Creme topping garnished with fresh Avocado.  The best fish I had eaten in years…Mag joined us after for some of his leftovers and the last of our wine.

We talked for a hour about his Culinary Training and experiences.from Cancun, Cruise Ships, Miami, West Palm Beach, and Houston.  A remarkable, likable, lovable and giving person.  Our cost for such a feast was $43…easily $100 in the states.  We bid Adios and I caught the bus home.

      Helen bused out to my place for Brunch at the nearby restaurant.  She arrived around 10 am …we had a nice buffet then made plans for her final three days.  She is taking my 2013 Federal and State taxes back for filing. We meet again on Tuesday.