Author: David Taylor

          Oaxaca has 32 World Heritage sites. 27 Cultural and 5 Natural which is the most of any country in Latin Americas and Ranked 6th in the world. One of the Natural Heritages of this state is it’s Bio Diversity. It has the most Bio Diversity of any country in the Americas.  All Cacti are indigenous to the Americas only.  Beans, Squash and Corn…all originated in Oaxaca over 10000 years ago and were domesticated 7000 years ago.  Oaxaca was still hunter-gatherers or what I like to call Leavers. They only used what they needed.  The other side of the world, in the Fertile Crescent the Takers were building an agricultural civilization and communities. They had horses, cows,water buffalo, donkeys, etc.   Now Oaxaca was doing the same…large cities throughout Central and North America.
      Carol guided my new found friend Jean and I on a two hour tour of the Botanical Gardens that were all indigenous plants to Oaxaca only. My thoughts of this 2 hour tour of being boring, were quickly laid to rest. Carol, had been coming to Oaxaca many years, trained to be a docent at the Garden and a gardener herself.  She was a wonder and brought her classroom in a bag.  She was constantly pulling out samples and charts to aid in our understanding of this complex transformation that took place after the Spanish Conquerors arrived and just from trade all over the world.

      There was a Photo Exhibit by famed Photographer Marcela Taboada.  The subject was the participants in the 1994 Guelaguetza with them wearing the traditional clothing of the 8 different regions of the state.  I attended that and just spent afternoon wandering around the different booths and events .
     A neighbor in Villa Antiqua moved out last week and I think she took Butch, Fi-Fi and Fido with her.  I hope they have a good place to live. They were my friends out here in nowhere land. I found out Butch was put down and Fi-Fi is without a mate and Fido’s dad is now in dogie heaven.
    Today I downloaded some files my Rental Agent sent, had them printed in Oaxaca, then signed and mailed back.  I feel relieved that my condo is rented and will stay in Scottsdale until they arrive to assure them that any issues that arise,  will be taken care of.  I want repeat renters.  It means I miss the Day of the Dead, Christmas and the Radish Festival…but that will be here next year when I can come early and experience it.

     Day by day my presence in Yartareni is being noticed.  MotoTaxi drivers wave.  My laundress knows Senior David and sometimes extends credit if I forget my wallet or don’t have change. The most interesting to me are the ones that speak English fluently.  Most are tour guides, taxi drivers, Moto Taxi drivers, waiters, cooks, ….at least the ones I’ve had an opportunity to meet.  Some were deported though none told me that. Most had jobs or were in College and their Visas ran out or they had to return to help the family.  The Moto Taxi driver gets 5 Pesos for up to 3 passengers …so maybe 15 Pesos a  trip…or $1.10-.20 a trip.
       Oaxaca, “The Eternal Spring”, has the most enjoyable weather of any place I’ve ever stayed , including Hawaii.  I was curious what time the Sun sets in December. It sets at 6 pm…I think the sunrise, sunset the year around, makes it one of the lightest places as the best weather of anywhere I want to be. This is the Stats…with pictures of graphs..http://www.gaisma.com/en/location/oaxaca.html
     I bought some Bears in Oaxaca.  They were small night lights that changed color for my grandchildren’s room.  Both have their own room. When you grow up from 2-3 years old to 16 or so and have your own room, that is a big deal.  I believe they should have a “Glow Light” or something to add magic to your imagination when it’s dark and your all alone in your own room. You can always turn it off.  I did think it Odd that they would pick Bears as a Light but they are popular stuffed animals and cuddly play dolls.  My light was a good size globe light.  I could spin it and imagine visiting those countries, each and everyone.

    Yesterday was focused on planning today and eating “Happy Pancakes”  I needed to get some drinking water before I depart on my planned attack on Oaxaca’s Festival’s today… Sunday. 
      I took my empties down to the local Miscellaneous store to fetch a pail of water…well two 5 gall containers.  I paid my $4 and hailed a MotoTaxi with an elderly gentleman, about my age and my two waters for about 30 yards…well worth it. I talked to the hombre but had no idea what he replied…we smiled a lot.
    When the water was secured I hailed a MotoTaxi for ADO, the bus stop.  I was going to buy a ticket for my departure to Mexico City next month but the Station was packed and lines out the door.  
       I walked to Llano park and said Hello to Hector my newspaper salesmen.  He said that his business was actually hurting as no one wanted to read a magazine.   I think many will buy before leaving to read on the bus , car,or plane home.  
     The park was just opening up.  Beautiful day in Oaxaca.  I was there to do photos and catch the action.  A lot …busy day with activities throughout Oaxaca. 

Fried Bananas

I ate 5 Tacos here.

Churros

       Llano park is hosting the Mezcal Festival with over 50 different companies to sample…the rest of the park is full of over 100 crafts booths from all over Mexico…like Cave Creek Art Fest when they come from all over the US.  Then there is the food stalls…and just Pineapple Fru Fru drinks booths ….at least 4 of those…serving you your drink in a Pineapple.

Mexico is about Color

        One food stall attracted my attention for Taco’s, so after touring the Park, I decided to get a lunch there.  I only wanted 2 Tacos but they were selling a platter of five for 40 pesos…OK…I wanted water but the only water they had was 1.5 liter bottles…another 20 pesos…then as I finished there was some 10% charge added on and the bill came to 90 pesos…I was debating if this waiter ever graduated from elementary school but instead gave him 100 pesos with a Gracias.  I had things to do.  

Gringos

     I headed for my Cafe and Latte to stall time for the Parade and refresh myself.  When I left the Cafe, for a Photo Exhibit, there was the Parade.  It sure wasn’t the biggie I expected but managed some photos and accepted a glass of Mezcal from some promoters with a bottle and plastic cups for all.  I swear it was a third of a water glass.  I never did find the Photo exhibit….another excuse to return Monday.

    It was time for the Mezcal Festival and then home.  I paid my 40 Pesos, got searched by Security (the usual Compton Terrace stuff) . took some photos while accessing the situation…then attacked.  50 booths and 50 tastes later the Guard at the entrance informed me the exit was on the other side of the park.
          I was leaving around 6 pm and figured I could buy something and carry it home now I was departing.  I got a large Black vase and we wrapped it in newspaper and I held it close all the way to ADO to catch the bus….wrong…the MAIN Parade was on the Camino…all one way with NO buses.  Everyone was dancing in the street and each district had a band and a float and Giant Paper Machai  people…passing out Mezcal shots from the bottle in plastic glasses to anyone.

    Then it started to rain….a real rain….I had to walk to McDonalds…VW… to catch a detour bus with my umbrella while embracing the Vase to my chest and still getting soaked…it was water and warm…I didn’t mind but no buses were coming to the stop but a lot of Collective Taxi’s were.  I took one and put down my umbrella in the front seat with my Vase in my lap.   Akee we picked up a family of 6 so the Vase went in the truck and a young man in my lap,and four in the back seat.   We arrived at my stop and I was concerned about the Vase so jumped out and checked it all out when he pulled it from the trunk and took my 10 Pesos.   

     The largest celebration of the year has begun in Oaxaca.  Folkloric group from each of the eight regions of Oaxaca participate wearing their regional clothing, exhibiting their dances and community ritual.  120,000 visitors are expected from Mexico and overseas.Activities take place throughout the city with over 60 different events including a Mezcal Festival in Llano Parque.

         The Celebration started with a big gathering at the Zocola.  Each of 8 representatives of the districts of Oaxaca (all women) was introduced and came on stage to explain the dress, culture, customs and music of the district and what made it special. It looked like Miss Mexico contest.  They were decked out with the costumes so elaborate and their hair done up like movie stars.

       I took the MotoTaxi to my bus stop.

Auto-bus Stop

    I met Victor at the address I was given. There was a 2 Bedroom Apartment to look at in a compound with other units, an Art and Photo Gallery and a Restaurant in front featuring a Mezcal Bar that had live Cuban music on the weekends.

      Today I painted my Coat Rack I bought in the street.  I painted it a Royal Blue to go with the Orange walls….they are my high school’s colors.  This is symbolic as I have never had a place to hang my hat anywhere I lived.   It must mean I’m here to stay?
     The laundry lady said Monday pick up so off down the road and back.
      The restaurant across the street was busy.  I ate there yesterday to try out the Breakfast Buffet for $8.50.  I can’t complain or say much about the food other then I didn’t leave hungry.  It was called El Escondido and was famous in Oaxaca for it’s assortment of Oaxacan food on it’s nicely done Buffet.  Last week the ownership changed the the name became Isabella’s.  They have a Mariachi Band and other music on different days. I was welcomed and seated immediately by a friendly attractive lady.
A gentleman asked if I wanted Coffee or Chocolate and directed me to the buffet.

 I ordered an Omelet from the lady cook and dished up an assortment of Beans, Pasta, Cheese, and eggs dishes.  When I returned to the table muffins, and sweet rolls were there with my coffee .   The waitress came over and introduced herself and said if I needed anything to just ask.  I got my Omelet and went for more juice when she intercepted me.  Please allow me.  When I finished I requested the check from the waitress…she said something in Spanish I didn’t understand but assumed it was the amount of the bill so I just gave her 200 Pesos.  I knew the dinner was 135 .  She had to get change and while I was waiting a young man with his baby son in his arms came up to me and explained she said 90 Pesos.  I thanked him and asked where he learned such good English…North Carolina where he worked for 4 years. The MotoTaxi drivers, servers, clerks, …everywhere you go…I lived in Seattle but hated the cold, Mississippi, Tempe, etc….He was very friendly and helpful.  He said he did like North Carolina and missed it a lot.  Someday I’ll sit down and listen to the “rest of the story”.
    I digress. I got back home with my laundry and decided to have dinner in town at Biznaga.  It was around 4:30 and I arrived at Biznaga at 5 p.m. after visiting the start of Festival for Oaxaca. Some pics below but I’ll explain this later.  It will be a busy week.

    I had a nice Chicken and Salad with my Bread and Wine…then toured the Carnival…it was over 100 stands with games of chance, food, crafts, music, and fun for everyone.  Mexican’s love this stuff and the whole City was out to enjoy.  The buses are packed now and lines are everywhere. I felt good when I got on the bus for home.  Just after I arrived at 7pm a major thunderstorm hit and a nice warm breeze flowed through the house with the smell of rain.

    I’ve am prejudice against barking dogs next door to me.  Don’t misunderstand me, I love dogs but a barking one that is outside all day long that does nothing but bark deserves to eat his Master when he/she returns home…if that day or that week.   I tried to befriend this little yapper and his older mentor called Leah (old dog can barely let out a “woof”).  I can’t wait for that to happen to the “yapper”.  He barks me down when I try to say…nice dogie…please shut the fuck up…probably senses that I’m a threat.  Yesterday I threw water on him and that worked…for a minute.   I didn’t actually get the water to land on him…he/she is a quick little yapper. This is the best picture I was able to get.

Yapper

 The dog can go 15-45 minutes without stopping.  I videoed the clock inside my house so the owner can hear the barking as I do .  That is what happens when her daughter leaves for work. The patio below my balcony is walled and is where the dog shits.  There is a Porsche Carrera parked there permanently.  It is surrounded by dog shit.  There is a BMW parked in front of their locked gate but no one is around….oh..except the barking dog and his/her occasional barking dog mentor.
       I was getting to like the water boarding treatment…it didn’t solve the problem but at least the dog paid attention.  I was starting to feel in control.  I even thought of making an offer to purchase this whole unit…downstairs and up…evicting the landlady’s daughter and her dog, moving in permanently and renting out my place as a Naturist BnB.  Advertised discreetly this could be, not a gold mine, but a continuously rented out source of income.

Butch         There are other “wild’ dogs in the complex of Villa Del Antigua.  I befriended them in hopes they would eat the yapper if he escaped…would be an accident you understand.  The wild dogs are Butch, Fi-Fi, (his old lady) and Fido…Butch’s 4 month old son.  They seldom bark except when a car pulls in the drive and almost run them over where they sun themselves all day.  Butch has half an ear and the other doesn’t look so good.  He struts with a limp.  He has been around.  I pet him and he almost gave me a blow job…obviously starved for affection.  Butch started sunning himself in front of my door and greeting me with a wagging tail and a desire to be petted…everyday.  He would walk with me until the MotoTaxi picked me up or to the store and back.  Then Fi-Fi started following Butch and of course Fido had to follow.

Union of MotoTaxi Yartareni

      All the MotoTaxi drivers know me now and 70% speak fluent \English and love to play dumb and then say something like…”Have a good day Man…hang loose”  as I’m getting out after just struggling to talk to them in Spanish.  When I see Karen, Juan , Carlos or any of them…I ask…where did you learn to speak such excellent English…I attended school in Monticello N.Y. for 7 years, I worked in NYC for 10 years, I attended grade school in Mississippi, grew up in Connecticut , Chicago, L.A. , Denver, even Buffalo!
     I am leaving in less than a month for about 4 months to visit my family and friends.  Also to settle up things for a time so I can stay away longer….doctor’s appointments, bills to pay, and hopefully renters to welcome.   If I can’t rent it…I’m ready to sell at a loss and lose it.  I like this place. The view is nice…no A/C or Heat…windows open year round with plenty of light and sunshine.   I’m a loner but also love to socialize and share travels, sex, good and bad times with someone.  That someone has been a lot of special people in my life but not lately.  I’m not worried but getting anxious…for travel …anyone want to go to Belize or Cuba for a month or so?

      I walked down to the copy place and had my documents done so now I was going into town, not to waste a trip, I dropped my 4 Kilos of laundry to pick up on Monday.  I got the bus into town after.

      The bus that takes me into and from Oaxaca when I leave my Shangri-La for the “village” passes McDonald’s.  There is a stop just before that at the VW Dealership that is a transfer point for lines going North and South as well as East and West.  Everyone just calls it the McDonald stop.  One day on the way home I noticed a Parque off to the right that went down into what appeared to be a canyon.        There were some Gaudi Steps leading into it and a wall that led to a stairway.  I made a note to visit and a couple days ago I took my camera, shopping list (Mexican Home Depot and a Mercado close by) and was off.   I exited the bus, toured a small market for Peanut Butter then crossed the Camino International over the foot bridge to the Home Depot near the Parque.  It was closed on Saturday…which is the busiest day of the week for Home Depot USA.
   

    I walked to the parque entrance and took pictures from the overlook.  Half was a four foot high wall and half was a cliff dropping into the canyon.  I was really getting Vertigo.
     I was very impressed with the view so had no problem exploring the park.  There weren’t many people for such a beautiful Saturday.  It reminded me of a miniature Balboa Park in San Diego.  Nice ponds, bridges, paths for bikes and people.  Children’s play area, statues, nice landscaping with flowering bushes.  Trees everywhere. The name means Center of the Quarry.

      I walked about 45 minutes before returning to shop at the Mercado.  .peanut butter…No…Tonic…no….I just bought a bunch of stuff because I didn’t want to waste the trip…more Ramen noodles…a six pack (behind locked refrigerator…then had to send an attendant to get me 6 cans of beer…it would be at the cashier when I checked out) no pro-biotic yogurt, no grapefruit juice, had to open the vault to get a liter of Bacardi, and then when I checked out I had to go outside and re-enter to get my handbag that I left in security in order to load everything to carry back home.
      The two BIG adult males that I had to share the back of the MotoTaxi with appreciated that…the driver had to get out to push the door shut and get us in.  I got home…to a barking dog.

    The Zocola or Main Parque in the Center of Oaxaca.  The Main Mercados are within walking distance, the Museums, Restaurants, Cathedrals, Parques , Theaters, and the Basilica.  There are Schools and Universities a short bus ride away.  Much of the area surrounding the Zocalo is Pedestrian walkways and outdoor cafes. Concerts are held in the open area, parades, dances, festivals, and all variety of events.

Getting Married

Eating Corn      It is also a Hub for the bus , taxi and collectives.  Collectives are mini vans and taxis that go to specific places in the villages out of the city for cheap.  You sometimes wait until the vehicle fills up before they take off or you can pay more depending on how much of a hurry your in.  Great way to meet people.

    Darcy Ell and his Sister Pat live south of there and I live North. I have been to Pat and her companion Dicks’ home near Darcy’s when I visited him one day.  We choose to meet at a bar in the center for convenience for a Gringo Happy Hour every week or two.  It is a Mexican bar but some of the Mexican’s customers have worked and lived in Canada.  Darcy and his sister are from Calgary, Canada so we call it the Mex-Can Bar.  The owner provides us with Botanas (like Tapas..free with a drink) and it’s always 2 for 1 beers.  The bill is seldom over $8 apiece after about 2-3 hours of solving the world’s problems.   We are all CouchSurfers.  Pat and Dick traveled all over South and Central America in their Motor home before settling here about 7 years ago when they barely avoided another accident along their journey.  They rented a home in the country with a beautiful yard then proceeded to fix it up into a nest for them and their 3 dogs.  CouchSurfer’s from all over the world keep them busy and entertained quite a bit of the time.  I’ve met a couple from New Zealand traveling through on a Motorcycle from Argentina…and a photographer from LA taking a week long course at the Photo Institute taught by a famous artist.  We share stories about our travels, Oaxaca, the world, and it serves a good outlet for me after very little conversation with anyone other then service personal for the last week.

Darcy and the Mex-Can Bar