Author: David Taylor

       Dr Z, acting as my interpreter, met me at Dr M’s office.

Dr M’s Receptionist

 Dr M did a sonar scan of my prostate and announced it was small…good sign.  I explained my desire to have a TURP operation and he agreed as long at I could come up with around $7000.  Maybe by November if I get lucky at Texas Holdem.  He gave me a script and I gave him 600 Pesos Cash as requested.  
     I went to the library…good place to meet people. … there was Mary giving a lecture, Kay busy chatting, Bill who helped me with my computer…Peter gave me the last of the coffee along with an English muffin etc.

My Barber

           I was going to see a Mural but they close 2-4 pm for Siesta,  so just wandered…first time since I arrived…talk about busy.

  It was pleasant.  I found a new hang out for coffee on Gran Vigil just down from Biznaga.

 Then I went to the Mercado to shop but what I wanted was perishable and would be yuck by the time I arrived home so I spent an hour trying to recharge my phone …my battery was low according to them…yet it worked fine…cost 120 Peso and I have to go back to activate my new SIM…they couldn’t recharge…I do need to speak Spanish.  I met with Courtney for Happy Hour at Biznaga then left with take out for home…arrived 7:30 tired .

             I asked Courtney to assist me with changing my air reservation.  The non refundable ticket was close to being cancelled if I didn’t do it NOW .  I brought my phone and flight info.  She managed to connect with the Call Center for Inter-Jet Air.  They changed the departure to match my connecting flight in Mexico City when I depart for home.  They couldn’t change the return flight in November as it was too far in advance but said I could change it a few months after I returned in order to use the full value. That took Courtney over 30 minutes on the phone to accomplish.  I was happy.  

     Joy, a friend from Phoenix emailed me that she had arrived in town.  I thought she had came and left already so invited her to Biznaga for Happy Hour.  I checked my email and had not received a reply so ventured into La Noria area and on to Chedarui , a huge grocery store.  There was a Chinese Buffet in the Plaza so I had lunch and noticed the servers dish up the customer’s request.

 A man will buy the buffet then walk around pointing to what he wants on his plate.  I saw this more then once while having my lunch.  The Hefe swaggered while barking his requests to the lady.
      When I was done shopping I took a bus home.  It was close to Happy Hour but I assumed Joy didn’t get the message in time .  I arrived to find NO water or internet connection.  I telephoned Teresa and around 7 pm I had the internet connection and there was a message from Joy…where were you?  I apologized and tried to meet the next day but she was off for a tour. I had another message from Don in my condo that the replacement TV was delivered but when he called Direct TV to hook it up, they wanted $140.   It is now in my name so tomorrow I have to contact them and find out why they aren’t honoring my initial order.  Not my fault the TV broke the day they came to install it.  The water came on around 10 pm. 

Carry Baby with a Shawl

       The following day I returned from another class on the Indigenous population of the state of Oaxaca.  It is the largest of all the Mexican states.  It just recently returned to the population it was prior to the Spaniards invasion.  over 500 years ago. When I arrived at the condo the water was off again…and the electricity.  The fuse was blown so I bedded down early and waited Saturday for Usi, the repairman to show.  He arrived just before lunch, replaced the fuses and left me some in case.  He was also there to fix the propane gas leak.  A week ago he shut off one , putting a note in English DO NOT OPEN, and hooked up the other tank. Usi was proud that he wrote the note and asked if it was correct and how to pronounce it.  The note was correct but the vowel O for Mexicans is pronounce differently than his note.  Each O in the note is different than the other so we practiced it until he could pronounce it correctly. Then he asked for money to replace the gas lines .  You could still smell gas.  He returned shortly and while replacing them, the Gas Company showed up and told him the regulator was the problem and if he came to there local store he could get one…more money and off he went.  Finally the whole job was completed but when I offered to tip him he only took $5 for gasoline for his motorbike.  I turn the receipts in to the landlady when I pay the rent and she reimburses me.

Art Classes for Children

          Sunday I met with Joy and we stopped by and got Helen and her friend Gil then took a taxi to Allen’s home for a Thai dinner.  Allen’s wife is Thai and with his adopted Mexican daughter Terri, they prepare and serve a Thai menu open to friends on Sunday’s only.  It was quite nice and enjoyable eating on his porch with quite a few people that showed up…maybe 60-70 all day.  We took a bus home and I walked Joy to my bus stop and we set a date for Wednesday Happy Hour at Biznaga.  

Linda

      Tuesday I went on a enlightening Church tour with Linda, former resident of Cambridge Mass. and 4 years a costume designer for Harvard. She has been a long time resident of Oaxaca and is an artist.  Her tour was excellent with bits and pieces of Oaxaca trivia as well as information about the churches.
      D.H. Lawrence wrote a book while staying in Oaxaca across from the B and B my landlady owns.  He was here with his wife and mistress.  

     Graham Greene came here as a spy for the Vatican.  The Mexican government confiscation all church property then and the Christo War was on. Priest were being hunted down and not allowed to say Mass in public or wear their Vestments outside of church.  Greene wrote the book the Power and the Glory which became a best seller and a movie.

The Priest in Graham Greene’s story

        Benito Juarez , former President of Mexico, was married to a Catholic beauty though he refused to marry inside the church.  They were married on the steps of the church.

Benito Juarez Married here.

 He later was the one responsible for confiscating all church property…to this day.  Incidentally Priests in Mexico can marry and have a family. Benito later brought King Maximilian with his wife Carlatta  to Mexico to take over as ruler when Mexico defaulted on European loans. A few failed years later it was suggested the King abdicate his throne and return to Europe but his mother was appalled and insisted his royal blood didn’t allow him to tarnish the family name so he stayed and Juarez had him shot in front of a firing squad while the King requested the band to play La Paloma.  Maximilian wore a Sombrero and his last words were Viva Mexico!

       Cortez returned to Spain after his conquest and was given a choice of land for his reward by the King of Spain.  He choose Oaxaca because of it’s gold and was given the title of Marquis of Oaxaca. He was disappointed he wasn’t given the title of Viceroy..but Oaxaca is 1/4 the size of all of Spain..so he didn’t fair too badly.

Please Jesus…bring my honey home.

             I wanted to visit the airport to adjust my ticket and possibly reserve a bus at the airport to take me to Quinetero.  I stopped for lunch next to the bus station then asked if the bus went to the airport.  Si Si so I board the bus….no pay until you exit the bus.  The bus took off and was 20 minutes out of the city when it went right pass the turn for the airport.

 I got off at the next stop, crossed the street and caught the next bus back to Oaxaca.  It appears the driver would let you off at the turn , then you had to take a taxi or walk to the airport?  It was now around 3:30 and I was hot and tired but decided to explore the La Noria area of town when I bumped into Peter who lived there.  He took me to his complex and introduced me to Victoria the landlady.  She said she could show me two studio that were available for next year but if I wanted them, I had to leave a deposit to hold the reservation for next year OR she would rent then to others that already have there name in but haven’t come yet.  I told her I would take number 5 and bring the deposit the next day.

 If I cancel 45 days before arrival in November and go over to Helen’s place, I forfeit $40 .  I get to see the studio at Helen’s place next month.  I thought it worth it to reserve the one now.  It is a beautiful complex.
I walked to Biznaga for an Empanada

and Wine before returning home at 7 pm .
        Courtney and I spent the early afternoon visiting the Abastos Central Market.

 It is the largest I’ve been too in Mexico. We returned to my future home next year to pay a deposit, had lunch then I returned home after stopping at a Museum about Mesopotamia and the life of the Mayans.

           Saturday is a good day to kick back and do nothing. Sunday I awoke with diarrhea …three day or 10 day?  Drank lots of fluids and departed to attend a Thai Buffet in private residence. I noticed an Internet Cafe and discovered they can print my documents.  Got a new place to do business.

      I withdrew the rent money out of the ATM and dropped it off with Teresa.  She said the water problem was the electric pump and gets stuck at times.  At times always is Saturday or Sunday? Si.  Her daughter Lucia wanted to know if I received the electric bill under the door?  I haven’t had one since my lease started almost 8 months ago.  The other tenants said it was included. Three months to go so why rock the boat now.
    The streets were quiet on Sunday.

 Everyone was in Church or at the Zocola. I was tiring and hungry.  It was another 2-3 kilometers to the house so I stopped at a nice Hotel advertising an American Breakfast.  I already had one at 7 am but thought I’d get another.  Usually they aren’t much more than a snack for $6.  I started with a fresh juice and Hot Chocolate with two nice slices of coffee cake.  Both different and good. Expecting my “light” omelette next but was presented with a platter of fresh pineapple , papaya, watermelon, apple and cantaloupe.

I couldn’t bring a doggy bag to a buffet.  Then came the “light omelette” …egg whites with corn mushrooms, onion, pumpkin flowers, and cheese for filling. Small portion of hash browns with peppers and a tostada cup with beans.  Oh yes   a basket of bread.  I didn’t have the bread but was FULL when I left.  I decided to go home and take a nap.
         On the way, I picked up a 10 oz bottle of mouthwash….$10.  I should have waited to visit Walmart or checked the price.  They have everything behind the counter so you have to ask the price of everything and wait while they bar scan it with a line of people.  I paid but was not happy. There are some things in Mexico that are expensive…but you find out the hard way.
     I fell asleep for two hours as soon as I arrived. If I continue with this sickness, I’m going to cancel the trip.  I hope to bus it to the airport to confirm and maybe change my return flight. The dogs woke me up:

Another Reason Why I Don’t Keep A Gun In The House

                Today was a nice relaxing day starting at 7:30 with the roofing crew next door working on their project.  They have been working everyday on that roof.  They have lunch up there.  All the tiles have been removed and the roof recovered and sealed.  Then they took wire brushes to scrub the black mold off the old tiles and make them like new. To prevent breathing in the mold they wear bandannas over their face.

       I relaxed and read while laying out in the sun for parts of the morning. When I finished lunch I booked my flights to Mexico City on Inter Jet for $175 round trip…got 20% Senior discount.!  Ham and Eggs with fresh oranges and toast was dinner.  Last night I watched Jack Barrymore DVD about his life done by Christopher Plumber playing the role of John Barrymore.  It was really good.  Tonight I’ll finish the Borges , about the Spanish Cardinal that became Pope and his family.  Very realistic, decadent, and mischievous. Starring Jeremy Irons with Derek Jacobie as guest star on first three episodes.
     I happened to think you may want to see a Calendar of Events that is posted daily to get an idea of what goes on here.  Understand this is for the tourists and more affluent “art” – political community.  The villages withing the state of Oaxaca could give a hoot about this.  There are 50 different languages spoken here…that doesn’t include Spanish…well maybe one is Spanish. Some of these indigenous languages such as Mextica is the fifth.most spoken language in L.A. So this is the Calendar.
       I just became a Twitter follower of Pena Neito , Mexico’s President. He is in Davos for the World Bank meeting and will address the assembly as the opening speaker.  His topic…New World Order.  International Laws that all countries are beholding to.  Isn’t that what the UN was supposed to have done.
           Mexico’s  politicians , businessmen, religious leaders and wealthy people…28 Billionaires and the richest man in the world…are the whitest.  They have Ivy league school diplomas. Claim direct descendants from Spain, born in Mexico…called Creoles BUT they never use that definition. I think this is a country to watch.  FIRM…Obama’s Immigration Reform  will, when it’s passed , change the face of America…and to be honest, I thought for the better.  Our country has gone to shit. No jobs, no values, no family traditions, no mentors, no support organizations , no quality education, no equal opportunity, no middle class, no true Congressional representation….we have everything to lose and not a lot to gain by accepting immigrants at an unsustainable rate. Accept a reasonable amount of those qualified.  Then insist they comply with the required path to become citizens.  They have to learn to speak English, have employment, be literate, serve our country, contribute and pay for there freedom like all those during the immigration wave of past.What is wrong with that?  We need to clean up our country for us first before we open the floodgates.   Then we would be the strongest and best country in the world.  The impoverished countries that these immigrants come from should take responsibility for their own citizens and SO should we!
    World Poverty 
      OK…let me get back on track…I went to bed at 10 pm and woke at 9 pm well rested.  Shit , Shower, Shave and I was out the door to meet Courtney for coffee.  A Moto-Taxi picked me up on the street and delivered me to the Bus Stop.  Getting on the bus I noticed two young ladies with infant babies. One was openly nursing hers, with her 2 year old by her side while the other sat behind her.  I suspect they were visiting their doctors together.  A guitarist boarded the bus, went to the back and started serenading the passengers. He played about 4 songs well and had a great voice though I understood nothing, live music was a great way to start the day…vs Rush Limbaugh.  I’m not conservative or liberal…I’m a center focused Libertarian.  Think about it.

      So the Driver’s assistant, who helps passengers on and off, watches for laggards (old people who shuffle..me) , announces the arrival and departure with the destination, and keeps the bus clean and shining….he has his girlfriend following him around all day in the front seat of the bus and flirts with her every chance he has to sit with her.  He helped the nursing mother off the bus by carrying her 2 year old down the stairs. Everyone rides the bus that doesn’t own a car or motorcycle .   Students, day workers with their lunch, businessmen reading the news or fumbling with the cell phone, villagers coming into town to sell their wares at the market, entertainers soliciting tips, old and young selling candy, lotions, coupon books…you never know.  Some of the buses are luxury, most are utilitarian and too small for my legs.

Clown Entertainment on the Bus

      I arrived at the Santa Domingo Plaza in front of the church early to meet Courtney.  I just relaxed and observed . There were what appeared to be a parade coming up the street.  It was two classes of 7-8 year old with the children taking turns pushing the wheelchair with one of the paraplegic children in the front. They gave him the respect that no one who advance in front of him. They were taking a waking tour with the teacher herding them like a sheep dog to the Santa Domingo Basilica and around to the garden behind

.

     Courtney showed up and we had morning (11:30 am) coffee together.  I left shortly after for a lecture about the Peasants of Oaxaca at the library.  It was given by a Professor at Queens college N.Y. who has been studying the culture of Oaxaca for thirty years I think.  It was wonderful and spiked my curiosity for more.

 I left to buy some black thin poster board to cover my windows at night because of the neighbor’s security lights.  Home early…bed early.
     Today I awoke with a start…it was like what Jack Nickelson said in the Bucket List…Never trust a Fart. I took a shower and did my laundry at the same time.
          Off to Oaxaca but when I departed the bus, I realized , in my rush I forgot my hearing aides. I went to my Internet Cafe to print out some documents .I failed to be able to print out my airline ticket, directions to a party Sunday, and a host of other documents I depend on…like my year end tax statement from my brokerage. I need to find a new Internet service.
           I got a haircut. The Barber makes me feel so important.  He spends at least 30 minutes to cut what few hairs I have.  $4 and I walk out a new man.
          I stopped by the Oaxaca Coffee Company and had a Croissant, Latte and a 1/2 Kilo of Organic Coffee. The sat at the park bench in front of the Basilica to relax and read.  A woman with her son approached me.  I think her 7 or 8 year old son was curious. She spoke a bit of English and inquired about my home.  She introduced me to Emilliano, her son and we chatted a bit.  I think her son needed a father figure and she wanted to encourage that.
         I stopped at the Mercado on my way to visit Darcy for a beer. I needed a phone that works.  My phone is over 10 years old and I have not been able to make it work. I bought a cheap used phone for $32 with a SIM card.  I had the lady call my Skype number to insure it worked.  I heard me answer the phone and paid her.  Not sure how long the card is to last but I made my first call in Mexico to Darcy.   I got an voice recording to leave a message that he said was on his used phone when he bought it but never bothered to change it.  I was happy that I figured out how to operate it in Mexican.
           I noted it said it was 2:15 pm and I was to meet him at 2 p.m.  When I arrived it was closed so I went next door and had a beer while calling him and leaving a message. I checked the time again and discovered my phone was 30 minutes fast.  I returned to find Darcy sitting at the bar.  It was good to see him again.  We shared bad news.  Me with the Prostate Cancer and he had a auto accident and had to have an operation…then four days in the hospital.  He went to the Carmen Hospital and had a pin and a plate screwed in to his thigh bone.  His Brother in Law helped with a Credit Card for the operation, until he could pay him back  The four day stay in the hospital costs 50 Pesos…$4…the price of my haircut. He had booked a flight to Saskatchewan to visit his Mother over Christmas.  When he returned, his house had been broken into, his car used as the getaway with everything he owned (TV, Computer, paintings off the wall, BBQ, all his propane gas lines cut, etc) loaded in the stolen truck.  He does take everything like me…do what you can …. and move on.

           We had a nice visit, he gave me a couple of his homemade chocolate/cherry Muffins and we took the bus to Llano Park where he hoped to replace one of the paintings with another by the same guy.  I stopped to get a BBQ Sausage Tortas.  I gave the guy the money and he took it then while I was waiting he told me I had to wait as their were others ahead.  OK.  I waited while watching him clean up, pack up and get ready to go home?  Where is my Tortas…oh…sorry, we ran out.  Excuse me…my money?  Oh…he gave it back.
           I don’t understand that but got another Tortas at the bus stop, paid my local store for taking my trash, and returned home to my neighbor’s barking dog.

       I leave Sunday morning for a brunch engagement with David and Donna , who have children in Scottsdale.  I met their son while dining at one of my local hangout.  He had attended High School here and spoke fluent Spanish.  He had traveled to Spain for a semester and now working in Arizona.  He gave me their email and we arranged to meet. When they found out where I lived, they suggested we eat at El Escondido, where Helen and I ate two nights ago.   
     His father showed up and we had great conversation. David was a Principal at a local school K-9 I think.  They had around 60 students. Donna is a nurse and knowledgeable about different doctors and specialists in the area.  She didn’t attend our brunch.  David struck up a conversation with an elderly Mexican dining alone.  The brunch was very good. We came over to see my place after.  They live not far from me and the school is just down the road. We agreed to stay in touch.
     I took the bus into the city to meet with Courtney for coffee at three, lunch and a beer after to hear Dr Z’s group playing Beatles music at the Pescado Rock. 

  The coffee shop was closed so I had an Ice Cream nearby where I could watch if she came by…but she didn’t.  The entrance to her building was locked and no knocker so I went to my coffee house not far away to have coffee and lunch.  I arrived at Pescado Rock around 5:30 and joined the band for a beer.

 The band was setting up when Courtney showed up.  She had forgot to reset her clock to local time, apologized and joined me for a beer and some music.  I can’t say three middle aged guys trying to sound like the Beatles was bad …well it was entertaining.  It was getting dark so I walked Courtney over to a Sports Bar to watch Seattle play football and I boarded the bus home.  It was the first time I had traveled at night in Oaxaca.  
       Monday I was back in  the routine.  Coffee and a light breakfast on the terrace while soaking up the morning Sun.  

A nice shower and off to the library for my last history lesson.  Helen was there with her friend Gil who flew in yesterday from Washington state for a couple weeks of sun.  We had lunch at Isabella’s after and went our ways.

       Tuesday Courtney and I met for coffee, then after touring a couple churches,

we had lunch at the local market and went shopping.  Took some photos from the roof top of her building

then finished the day at Biznaga over some wine and a Mushroom Ceviche, an original.  It was healthy and good.

My Moto-Taxi driver was born in Pennsylvania and spoke good English. No wonder.
       

            Sunday David spent the day in the Sun trying to get a tan, well around 30 minutes.  Time for a refreshing cool shower but surprise …no agua.  The water went from a trickle to nothing while I was lathered up.  I wasted some good drinking water rinsing off then emailed Teresa.  Her reply was Usi will be out tomorrow and will call the Fire Department again.  Coincidentally, shortly after  her daughter returned that evening and yelled up from below to ask if I still had no water, ten minutes later I had water??? Could she have shut off my water when she left for work that afternoon? Minor inconvenience…part of learning patience and getting on “Mexican” time frame..Manana.
          Manana came and I dropped some Medical records at my doctor’s office and made an appointment with Dr. Z for Thursday.  I took my Flomax script to the Pharmacy to fill, thinking it would be cheap in Mexico.  Surprise…$20 for 20 capsules. I will take advantage of Medicare next time and have ALL my medicine before departing. I picked up The News, an English paper about Mexico but with news around the world.  Hector, mi amigo, owns the stand and struggles to compete with Smart Phones and computers.  

The computer store, where I print out documents, was closed  so I dropped into the library just in time to sign up for a Mexican History class that started in 10 minutes.  I ran down to my “Flying Pig” restaurant to start the day with a Ham Torta to go but they were busy and said they would deliver to the library. I returned and Helen, my Rochester, N.Y. friend had a seat saved for me.  Shortly the restaurant delivered a tray of food and drinks that apparently a group a young ladies had ordered after me. I was on the other side of the room when they all scurried around the food like ravenous birds.  There was nothing on the tray in 10 seconds….I assumed mine was to come. Wrong.  I ran down on break to complain but the Chef said it was on the tray with MY NAME ON IT…some one got a free meal. 
            He reimbursed me but it was 2 pm and I hadn’t eaten at all.  I was stressed so excused myself from class and took the bus to Plaza de Valle where I gorged on a Triple Angus Cheeseburger, Fries, and a Coke

before crossing the street to Sam’s Club to complete my day shopping. Sam’s Club , like Costco sells in bulk so there was little for me to buy…Frozen Berries and Frozen California Vegetables, Coke Light, Activa drinkable Yogurt with fruit (Dannon stopped making it plain in Quarts) and a large 12 oz Peanut Butter.  I negotiated a taxi home for 70 Pesos.
      Tuesday my computer store was open so I printed out my documents for taxes coming soon and returned home after picking up my laundry.

       Wednesday I  attended another class, dined with Helen,

and stayed over at her place. It was cold that night and the next morning when I showed up at the Doctor’s office to discover they had to change appointment to Friday, but didn’t have a way to let me know. Helen and I had lunch then I was off to meet Darcy at the library but he didn’t show so I returned home.  

      Usi had checked my gas leak and shut off the valve then switched to the other tank.  I assume the gas company will replace it tomorrow when I go in for my Doctor’s appointment.  Dr Z was busy when I arrived. We discussed my radiation treatment and ongoing problem of frequent urination.  He suggested I get “roto rooted” a laser procedure called a TURP that is done in an hour and little side effect.  This is what I requested my Urologist do two years ago before I was diagnosed with cancer. He said it was too radical and to take some more pills. I told Dr Z to plan on it when I return from a trip North around mid February.  He suggested I come see his band play Beatles Music at Pescado Rock

down the street on Sunday. I agreed. 
     Helen met me at the library where I was talking to Courtney from Olympia Washington.  Her and I will have lunch Sunday then stop into hear my Dr’s band.  Helen and I stopped at a Torta Stand and split one before taking the bus to my place.

 We stopped to visit Canteras Park

then I bought some Vodka and crackers to take home.   When the bus let us out I picked up some Jicama and Oranges at the produce stand before taking the Moto Taxi to the condo. I dropped the Vodka in the driveway trying to get my keys.  Oh well.
       I gave Helen the tour and showed her my place then we crossed the street to the Buffet Restaurant  for our lunch/dinner.  It was quite nice. 
      Helen left on the Moto Taxi for home. 

         Doug, my friend, picked me up in my garage at Scottsdale Shadows after securing my car in storage. A brief ride, check in and I boarded my connecting flight to Mexico for LAX.
The connection went well and I arrived in Mexico City around midnight. 
       An authorized taxi drove me to my hostel.  The city at that time was empty except for homeless people warming themselves around open fires on the street. All the stores except an occasional 7/11 were closed.  We arrived at a barricade and couldn’t enter the area of my hostel because of late night street construction.  The driver gave instructions in Spanish and I walked down the cobblestone street in the direction he pointed.  I didn’t see anything but more barricades and policemen.  They continued to give me directions in Spanish and pointed down a side street. I was pulling two suitcases and had a large carry on bag over my shoulder when I arrived at a 7/11.  The clerk gave me more instructions in Spanish but pointed back to the police.  It was around 1 am and I was tired, exhausted and had to be at the bus station in the morning.  I had no choice but to return back the deserted street…when lo and behold the hostel was right there.  I walked past it in a daze.  They had me arriving on the 9th.  I told him in was the 9th…at 1 am.  He arranged a room and I was asleep shortly. 

           Breakfast was some scrambled eggs in hot sauce with greasy toast and coffee. The front desk called a taxi that delivered me to the bus station just in time to get my ticket and check my baggage. 
       While I waited, a Mexican with three young boys all dressed in matching jackets and cowboy hats struck up a conversation.  He and his family, another child was with his German wife, were on there way to visit his family in Compeche.  It had been four years since he saw his parents.  He had been working and raising his family in Ontario Canada.  They had been traveling all day and had a 19 hour bus ride ahead.  The children were WHITE with rosy cheeks, blond hair and handsome.  His parents had never met the family. He arrived in Canada a number of years ago with no English speaking skills.  He said the first two years were hard for him. We bid goodbye and I was off.

        I arrived in Oaxaca around 6:30 pm by bus from Mexico City. A taxi lady greeted me just outside the station with a smile.  I asked how much to my condo and I thought she said 50-60 pesos.  Good enough as we loaded my two suitcases and my hand bag into the taxi along with me.
      She was an aggressive and excellent driver.  We passed everything in sight at 60 mph with the windows down, the sun setting, and all while she was texting.  
      We arrived at my front door greeted by Butch, my semi pet dog that sleeps out in the driveway all day and night.  I swear he remembered me as soon as I started to unlock the door.  He jumped up and waddled over , tail wagging and a smile. 
      I had little change so gave her 100 pesos and she claimed she had no change so I drew out what I had in coins and told her to take what she needed.  She returned my 100 peso and took 10 pesos!  One dollar.  I kept my hand out with the money and she said thank you?
I was too astounded to take her number for rides back and forth.  I need a taxi contact I can count on in an emergency who is honest and fair.  She fit the bill…with her ability I could call her in an emergency and be at the hospital in 5 minutes!  Well I didn’t get her number but I gave her more money, then moved in to my dusty home with a few dead roaches laying around the house.  I first swept the house and unpacked.  It was midnight when I retired. 
       I awoke around 9 pm with a meeting scheduled for Noon to pay up for the  four months I was gone and the month of January…15,000 pesos…$1150.  The house in the sunlight was still dirty but everything was as I left it except a wasp nest was at my entrance.

I took the bus into Oaxaca with 9500 Pesos I left in hiding, arrived and bought my English paper from Hector,who owned the corner news stand in Llano Park.  We exchanged handshakes and greetings.  I was feeling at home. Llano Park had the Friday market going on.  I was strolling through the stalls when Kay called out to me.  We were having lunch and were to meet at the library with Helen at 1 pm.  We exchanged welcomes and agreed be at the library. 
           The HSBC ATM gave me the rest of the rent and my spending money for the month.  Teresa greeted me at Las Mariposa Bed and Breakfast with a hug and a kiss.  We exchanged pleasantries and I gave her the money while she gave me the receipt . She asked if she could send Usi , her handyman out to clean the place for me tomorrow at 11 am. I love Oaxaca.   I thought that a nice gesture and accepted.  Usi stopped by the office on his way out to say hello and ask if there were any problems at the condo.  I forgot to tell him about the wasps.  He left and I went to the library where Bill, one of the volunteers I met last 4th of July prepared an English Muffin and Yogurt for me at there little snack bar.  Helen greeted me and again we exchanged welcomes.  We last saw each other in Rochester , N.Y. last September when I showed up with Penny from Attica where we had our 5oth H.S. class reunion. I introduced Helen to Kay and we were off for Isabella’s and lunch.
      We had a wonderful lunch and conversation about the last few months, plans for our stay, and immediate travel plans as well as current events in Oaxaca to share. Helen is taking Spanish lessons daily, Kay is going to a Writer’s Conference and will be in San Miguel Allende when I’m there in February.  It was late in the afternoon when we parted from Kay’s studio where we went to see her new flower garden and upgrades. 
       Tomorrow, Saturday, I was to wait for Usi and thought I would come back with him to finish my shopping and get stocked up at Walmart and Sam’s Club for the next few months.  I hopped a bus but there had been a road block that morning protesting something and it was still on.  I got off the bus quite a ways from the condo and started walking.  I needed a bathroom but just had to get by.  I had walked about a mile when the road block was taken down and I hopped another bus for the last mile.
      A Moto Taxi took me to my door after we stopped to pick up 2 five gallon bottles of water from my local convenience store.  I was tired after my first day of walking back in Oaxaca.  I ate the only thing I had…Ramen Noodles washed down with Mescal and Gatorade. A short chapter in Cormac McCarthy’s book and sleep came by 10:30.                                                              Saturday morning I was planning my day over coffee.  Shop, drop laundry, etc, when Noon arrived without Usi.  It was unusual for him to be late.  I had emailed Teresa the night before to inform her of the wasps nest over my entrance so Usi could check it out.  He arrived and I suggested the Pest control.  After telephoning Teresa and informing her he was bit twice already so help was in order.  In less than one hour the Oaxaca Fire Department showed up with two men with head masks and gloves.

 They took a bag and placed the nest into it and offered it to me.  I could hear some real angry wasps and thought about throwing it over the balcony at my barking dog of Teresa’s daughter, who happens to live below me.  I gave them 200 pesos as a tip to take the bag with them.  I offered Usi some Gatorade and he offered me a Tortilla with nopales , Oaxaca cheese and chilis…we share lunch after warming it in the Microwave.  Usi speaks no English and I speak little Spanish.  I showed him photos of Laos and we communicated Spangish. Both of us agreed to help each other with our language skills.   Usi finished his cleaning after two hours and took me on the back of his motorcycle to Teresa’s.  Her daughter reimbursed me 100 pesos that the fire department charges for that service.  I didn’t know. We bid adios.

    When I arrived at the condo…all the wasps were gone…I thought.  I sat outside watching the moon rise over the mountains until 7:30 when I came in to write this.  One last wasp dive bombed me but I got the last survivor before he could bite me. 

  I paid my rent and explained I was very very happy here but the dog had to go.  I had committed to a year and will honor that but I was leaving this week and when I returned , if the dog problem was not solved, the end of April would be my final day.  I started looking for another place.  A lady offered me a one bedroom house not far from here but I won’t be able to view it until I return.  I really do love this place when the dog isn’t barking.  It is heaven.  Peaceful, private, quiet, fresh air,  and a terrace with a view to go with it. My plans for this place have come to a halt.  The things I was going to return with are no more.  Since I made my report, the dog has been quieter?  Why I don’t know but it is a joy.  I even offered to rent the whole building if I could sublet the downstairs.

     Two of my neighbors moved out and were replaced the same week. One has left their outdoor lights off at night and I can start to see the stars.
     I contacted a CouchSurfer from Tempe, Arizona that said she was visiting Oaxaca and invited her to lunch the day she arrived.  She needed to use a walker because of a spinal injury she suffered when she fell down a flight of stairs in Delhi India after living their three years. We shuffled around the cobblestone streets of Oaxaca until we found a place for lunch and conversation.  Later we found a camera store so she could replace the one she lost on the way here from Tempe.  We got along well and exchanged travel stories.  I did find her attitude toward a young girl selling hand painted book markers and a man selling dressing on a street corner, a bit confrontational.  That was puzzling and I wondered if it had something to do with living three years in India with the caste system, but she also living in Africa for a long time.  She flew the Concord 4 times before it was taken out of service and auctioned on E-Bay.

Try to separate the laundry from the Graffiti Art

     Friday I bid my News Stand Attendant, Hector, goodbye and treated myself to a Giant Shrimp Cocktail for $9 dollars and worth everybit of it.  I asked a lady in the tourist booth for the Oaxacan Cafe.  She directed me to a Hotel near Llano Park and commented they have good Oaxacan cafe. I thought she made an error so repeated my request.  She referred me to another place a bit further away.  I left only to realize after , she thought I was a tourist looking for a cup of Oaxacan coffee when if fact I was looking for the famed chain of about 4 restaurants called “Cafe Oaxaca” that had great food.
       The evening of my last day, I decided to treat myself and looked the restaurant up.  It was called Casa Oaxaca…MY mistake.  I walked by it 10 times and never noticed.  It has a 5 star Diamond rating ?  I was greeted by a very attractive and professional Hostess that asked if I would prefer the roof top.  Of course and I thanked her as she pulled my chair out for me.
I started with a “House” Red wine which was a Mexican Tempor…something.  Not very good so after the waiter prepared my salsa with a Petal and Mortar, I ordered another Mexican Niebro?..something like that.  It was a little better.  He poured both wines at the table and offered a taste first.  My Blue Bean Tortilla Soup was served by a waiter out of a large ceramic Tureen into a bowl with slices of Avocado twisted into Roses and Julienne Crisp Tortillas.  Good but not as good as the Roaring Fork in Scottsdale.  There was a basket of Crisp Blue and Regular Tortillas that went well with the Excellent Salsa. Fresh Sea Bass pan Fried with the Skin on was served with a fresh tomato butter sauce and capers.  Very good…no side dishes and the bill came to $40 with tip….the wine was about $12 of it.  I would go back with a special date.  

Hmmm..Potato Chips with Mustard and Salsa

    Monday was spent checking last minute departure notes.  It was warm at 7:30 pm when I left the house and took the bus to ADO Bus Station where I checked my bag with security so I could walk around Llano Park and pass the time.  10:30 I ate my Happy Pancake, claimed my bag back and 11 pm boarded the bus. 11:15 we were off and I was asleep.  Woke once to visit the bath and returned to sleep until arrival at 5:30 am.  I was in a daze when I caught a taxi to the airport and received sticker shock of $22 dollars.  That was my spending money until departure.
      The 71/2 hours waiting in the airport was a different thing.  I tried sleeping on the marble floor with the rest of the waiting passenger but that was cold and when I opened my eyes a 4 year old was standing over me staring at me.  I did a lot of coffee and walking and getting ready to board shortly…another hour at least. I packed and take the late bus Monday to Mexico City.  I arrive at the airport early Tuesday morning and have to wait until 1 pm for my flight that puts me in Phoenix at 6 pm.  I sleep a little on the bus in and hope I stay awake at the airport. Haste Luego Oaxaca   Golf and Poker look to be boring after this.

   Llano Park is quiet…all the food and craft tents are gone and only the wooden structures remain to be recycled for next year.  Every nail and screw are salvaged.  I too am preparing my departure to be recycled in January when I return for the winter.
     A couple evenings ago I was watching a movie with my ear buds in to drown out the dog barking. I retired around 10 pm and around 10:30 the dog woke me with his barking. I put in my ear plugs but my left one didn’t quite fit.  I was tired and fell asleep only to re-awake around 2 or 3 in the morning when my left ear plug fell out.  I ignored it and went back to sleep.  The next morning I noticed my left ear ached a bit and after my shower I went to clean it with a Q tip but it felt like something was in my ear. That afternoon when I wanted to listen to some music, I noticed the “bud” on the head phone was missing.  I searched the couch, floor, chair…but no bud.  Then it occurred to me that it might be in my ear and when I put the plug in, I pushed it further against my ear drum causing the pain.  I couldn’t feel anything and put in my tweezers but couldn’t grasp anything so just thought it might be swelling and a minor infection from the plug.  I went to my Doctor but he was out for siesta and returned later but with summer hours the office was closed.
     That evening I took an Advil to relieve the pain and slept well.  Today I returned to the Doctor but still the office was closed.  I went to a meeting with a Mexican lawyer I met at Immigration.  The meeting was at the library and it was standing room only. I only had one hearing aid in and was in the back so my time was a waste.  I did ask German,( his name), why would I want Temporary Residency if: I wasn’t going to work here and at this time was not sure I ever wanted Permanent Residency which requires four years of Temporary Residency before you qualify for Permanent. The only advantage was you can come and go out of the country with no problems and you qualify for a 50% discount on bus travel.  You have to pay around $350 for the Temporary Residency.  I get a 6 month Visa included in my airfare when I come into Mexico and if I leave I have to get another each time I re-enter…but I go home at the end of the summer and return for the winter.  I decided to wait until I decide to live here year round.  Meanwhile, if I go to South America , Cuba, the Caribbean or Central America…I just have to get another Visa when I re-enter.   I left the meeting early along with Bill, a volunteer at the library and acquaintance. He has lived everywhere and has a Permanent Residency because he doesn’t care to leave.  His friends are here, the living is good and he is happy.
    He also told me if I needed to see a Doctor, just go to the free clinic across the street.
I  did and she referred me to an ear specialist after discovering that I did in fact have an Ear Bud stuck in my ear.  She didn’t have the proper tools to remove it. I arrived at siesta time and was told that I had to return at 10 pm in the evening when he returned.  I explained my pain and the emergency so they referred me to the hospital emergency just two blocks down the street.  I arrived and was taken to the front desk where they called a doctor to look at me.  He was on his way and I was to wait.  I explained I already saw two doctors and can’t a nurse in the emergency room remove it.  She did for $24 and I was home that afternoon feeling much better.