Author: David Taylor

        I woke this morning excited to be going on my “second” tour of the Ethnobotanical Garden tour.  I was hoping to get the lady I had last year but Carol, a library volunteer and well versed with Oaxacan tours and history, thought Diablo would be my guide.  She was right.
       I left the condo without breakfast so stopped for a coffee and croissant before getting in line.  When breakfast was done, the tour had begun.  Diablo was very knowledgeable but I was having a hard time hearing his soft voice so moved up to front role and stuck by him the rest of the two hour tour.

      It is fascinating for me having grown up in the food and beverage industry.  Squash was grown and ate 12000 years ago in Oaxaca…then Corn 10000 years ago…along with Beans.  These foods, along with Cacti, Potato, and Chilies were exclusive to North and South America and no where else.  The Conquering Spaniards took them back to Europe and to their colonies in the Philippines then on to China and Southeast Asia.
    The gardens are in what used to be Santa Domingo Church grounds until Benito Juarez (shortest President ever in the history of the world) took the church property for the state and the people of Mexico.  In 1994 it was a military barracks and compound.  A Oaxacan artist petitioned the Mexican Government to protect this World Heritage site…and they did.  Money was funneled in and work was begun to restore the compound.  The garden was set aside and plants, trees, bushes, cacti, vegetables, from all over the state of Oaxaca were brought here and given special treatment so they could survive the change in altitude and climate.

DIEGO

    Each plant has a story.  There are parasite insects that grow on the Nopals of the Cacti that when crushed yield a blood that is bright red and is used for a pigment in paint that Renoir used, that was used in dyes for Red robes for the Royalty of the world, for all the Cardinal uniforms in the Catholic Church, to make pink lemonade and Campari.  The Spanish had the Mexicans harvest this and send tons of it around the world. One kilo was worth more than one kilo of pure gold.  Spain returned the money to build these huge Churches not to benefit the Mexicans. Chia seeds came from Mexico.  The Spaniards outlawed them for the Mexican diet because they were too healthy and so were the Mexicans as a result.  The Spaniards wanted the Mexicans weak. The State of Chiapis that borders on Oaxaca…was named because their biggest crop was Chia plants.

SUN BURNED GRINGO

BIZNAGA…BARREL CACTUS

DRAGON FRUIT

LUNCH CREPES WITH CHICKEN AND MUSHROOMS

Monday’s plans to attend the first of a series of lectures on the history of the Middle East to today, were ended when I arrived late, realized this lecturer sat behind his computer and flashed maps and stuff on a screen while talking to the screen so no body that was behind him, 2/3s of the class, could hear what he uttered in his monotone voice.  I thought a Professor would be more professional.  I’m am very critical of tour guides, teachers, performers, actors, and lecturers that don’t address their audience with proper eye contact, concern, elocution, teaching aides, involvement, and participation.  

FORMER HAPPY HOUR BAR – REMODEL BY NEW OWNER

FAKE WATCH DOG

THIS IS GARAGE WITH CAR…YOU SHOULD SEE THE PATIO

I returned home, had lunch then came back to the Santa Domingo Plaza for a Modern Dance with a young Oaxacan dance group at 5:30, then I thought I would stick around for the 27th annual International Cultural Festival at 7:00 pm.

 It was not to be.
      When the “Modern Dance Interpretation of something was over, I wandered around until they started setting up chairs in front of the outdoor stage.  It was around 6:40 so I sat and watched the crowd gather.  The seats were full by 7pm for the beginning but there wasn’t any.

 There was an announcer that said something in Spanish but nothing happened.  It was getting colder as I noticed a single man trying to get a seat two rows in front but it was saved.  I thought maybe his daughter was going to be on stage so gave him my seat and I stood in the back.  I thought I would shoot a few photos after the beginning and stick around until I was too cold or it became boring.  Still nothing.  
      I left at 7:20 and as I got close to the Zocalo, I saw some motorcycle police come around the corner and head toward me.  Then two more with two golf carts with policemen following as an escort for the parade.  Now comes the Tuna Band…wandering Oaxaca Minstrels that date back to the Middle Ages in Salamanca Spain where they began as University students trying to make money to pay for their education.  They were like Drum and Bugle Corps competing but with Medieval instruments still used in today’s Tuna Band along with uniforms from back then.

 I began to think they were called to sub for the original opening act that didn’t show?  I didn’t care.  I’ve seen this Tuna group three or four times.  They are good and if it was warm out, I’d probably follow the parade back to the stage.  I went home.

       The concert in the Santa Domingo Cultural Center was filling up when I arrived on time for the Noon Concert.  More chairs were brought out.  These pianists were some of the world’s best and had played together before.  Each took turns playing 4 different selections from Mozart to Ravel.  The Center used to be a convent 100’s of years ago.  The building dates to the late 15th Century.  It was held in the Cloisters, I think they are called.  This will give you some background on the Pianists:   Alberto Cruzprieto  Y              Alejandro Barranon

Alberto and Alejandro

I left and had a BLT (w/melted cheese? and Turkey Bacon..ugh).  Saw some colors of Christmas…as Pinatas.  Then life on the street.

NOT AN EFFIGY…A PINATA

MARIPOSA B AND B MANGER

..AND MORE…

TOOK UP THEIR WHOLE ENTRANCE WAY…THE WHOLE OF BETHLEHEM

I should do something with my time.  I got bored and Black Friday I bought everything Amazon had…and more.  No Mas.  Time for giving now.

Library with Angels

MISSING SOMETHING

NOW THAT’S CHRISTMAS

BEST ROTISSERIE CHICKEN IN TOWN

SUNDAY EVENING     My plan was to have dinner at a new very nice restaurant and then go to a Cello and Violin concert near by before returning home.  I left a little late and shuffled my way from where the bus dropped me to the Restaurant.

Little Green Beans and Potatoes..Breast of Chicken Stuffed with Crickets and Cheese garnished with Squash Blossoms..Yellow Moles are the Poka dots on the plate.

Sauce is a Gazpacho of Mango and Pear…Crisp Sweet Crackers with  Roasted Mango, Mint leaves, and Beige Dabs of Marzipan

 I took my time and enjoyed a quite different dinner but after the dessert, I realized I would be lucky to be allowed in the concert.

 When I finally arrived it was already over…so I caught the bus and again stopped for a Mescal at my neighborhood bar then walked home.

 A culinary extravaganza with Top Chefs from all over the State of Oaxaca and 18 Celebratory Chefs from the country of Mexico.  The tasting on Saturday afternoon for 200 Pesos would have been great but nowhere did I see it advertised.   The 1500 Peso Dinner was advertised everywhere.  Next year.    El Saber Del Sabor

MONDAY  Do nothing day. 

TUESDAY  Made little cocktail nibbles for Charles’s Men’s Happy Hour.  Little Olives on toothpicks with Ham, Cheese, Red and Green Peppers for Christmas Spirit.  Someone brought some to the Thanksgiving Dinner and they were a big success…as were mine.  A couple of Canadians from last year showed up that had just arrived in country. Had a good time and no leftovers to take home.

WEDNESDAY  I decided to do another nice dinner at another Top Restaurant.

Chips, Hot Salsa,Hot Onion & Jalapeno,Habenaro Salsa, Fire Salsa…and Ground Fish with Lime

3 Pork filled Empanadas

Shrimp Broth, Spanish Rice, Jalapenos,Lime and Red Onion

THURSDAY  Nice Breakfast

Salsas, Toast and Homemade Marmalade,Fresh OJ,American Coffee,Beans,Scramble Eggs and Bacon

FRIDAY   Nice Breakfast

Cafe Latte……Melon,Pear,Papaya,Grapefruit,Banana,Yogurt, and Granola

Also…..

POSTED IN FRONT OF SCHOOL

ALSO IN FRONT OF SCHOOL

IT’S AN ART SCHOOL…WITH GALLERY

FREEDOM RIDERS

     I am getting spoiled with this maid service.  I look forward to seeing the house all sparkling, clean sheets, empty shitty wastebaskets (we can’t flush our toilet paper in Mexico..or drink the water, or…), clean floors , etc.  I left to drop of my shirts and pants for cleaning and pressing…about the same cost as in the US.  Laundry is CHEAP…so wash and wear is the best.  

NOT SURE BUT IT’S FREE AND AT THE MAIN MARKET…PUPPET SHOW.

      I enjoyed breakfast at the local Cafe in A Sol where Peter, (Canadian friend stays).  I met him leaving and we walked to the market together.  I stocked up for the week and returned to my clean house.  
     I was low on drinking water so went to see my Landlady. 
      Last night she offered me a discount if I paid her then because she needed cash in a hurry. The rent wasn’t due for a week.  I paid the full price and threw in an extra 50 pesos for her selling my microwave for me while I was back in Norte Americana.  
      She said she wanted to show me what the money was for and took me to the first condo that Helen, my friend from Rochester, stayed at.  Helen introduced me to Los Nogales..the Oasis in Oaxaca. 
     The condo had been mostly transformed into a modern, tiled , beautiful place with a kitchen island, microwave, stainless steel refrigerator, even a large kitchen window replaced the old small one so the place was full of light both up and downstairs. The outside area had been cleared for a semi private patio to add to the appeal.  

        The workers had finished the job sooner than they told her so this is what my rent paid for…my new digs next year!  Yes, I can stop looking…I have a nice place, in a good neighborhood, quiet, with lots of light, cheaper than anything comparable…I booked it and took my water home.  
     I am returning on Friday to take photos for her and me.  I took some today but the paint hasn’t dried to put in all the curtains, bedspreads etc.  Can’t wait.

     The Thanksgiving Dinner was at 2 pm at the library so I arrived next door a bit early to pick up Juanita’s Pumpkin Tamales she prepared for me.  Lucy, her bilingual , very intelligent daughter, met me with the HOT Tamales and asked for 300 Pesos.  I gave her 400 Peso but after felt guilty I didn’t give her more. They were in a plastic bag that fit perfectly into my disposable Pot I brought from Mi Casa with a label “Pumpkin Tamales” then added it to the desert table at the library.

 
     I took a seat and saved one for Lisa who was joining me with her Mediterranean bean salad she made at Mi Casa last night and picked up this morning.  We were having some wine and appetizers at the table when she joined us.  We got in line but they ran out of DRESSING by the time I got there.  Everything else was tops.  The tables all had linen tablecloths with floral arrangements by Ted who had a Florist Shop in Vancouver B.C. before he retired to run a Gay B & B near my neighborhood in Oaxaca.  The laggards from the hike we were on day before yesterday were at our table…they spent yesterday recuperating like me.  We had a fabulous dinner…all 97 of us…the library only expected 60-70 but handled everything very professionally.  We finished our desert ( I had to move my Tamales up front as more deserts arrived after my placement and I got back seat. .. I ended  taking 8 out of 19 home with me).  It was too much fun to be bothered by such trivia…so we all went up to the roof and bought shots of Mescal from Jose our friendly “Mescal Boy” who came around to the tables encouraging us to have Mescal Blanco or Mescal Monte Alban…both he pulled out of his apron and filled little plastic shots with.  My Doctor Z playing the drums, and his GREAT Blues singer with a couple of good guitarists got us all up on the dance floor in short order.  It was great…except I forgot my camera!!!!!  I borrowed Lisa’s phone and took a few photos before the battery went dead.  

     Her and I packed up our dishes and left just before everyone else.  We caught the bus and were back at Mi Casa washing up  and putting away leftover Tamales…and having one last call before she left and I crashed at 9:30.

FRIDAY      I slept until 9:30 am very soundly. Tamales for breakfast worked…then I did some Black Friday shopping on the Internet.  I went over to take some photos of the newly remodeled condo with furniture and drapes but the maid was still cleaning up and hadn’t got the beds make or curtains up.   I returned to take a shower and then took the bus to Los Tacos.  On the way I ran into a Limo for a Wedding at the Basilica.

This is a place I’ve passed on the street that was always busy and it was indoors.  Most restaurants have open patios so when it gets cold, like today 69%, I want to sit in a warm place to enjoy my dinner.  I did.  Francis, born in Oaxaca, and three years working at Wrigley field in Chicago, was a great waiter.

 I did a couple glasses of house wine with my Chicken in Wine Sauce with salad and French Fries…then had Cornbread sauteed in an Iron Skillet with butter and topped with Ice Cream and Mexican Vanilla…with Carlo I Brandy from Spain.  

         The bus dropped me at my Mescal Bar so I walked in, raised one finger to Daniel the owner , and pointed at my table.  I couldn’t do two Mescal’s after the wine and brandy…but this time he filled my glass full…which is two Mescal’s for the price of one.  I walked it off on the way home to run into Fernando, the landlord,  just after I came in the gate.  The young Swedish ladies were outside enjoying the cool air on their laptop.  This morning they were sunning themselves in the garden when I emptied the garbage.  All in all this has been another Oz adventure.   

SATURDAY         I returned to take more photos of the remodel condo but the Landlady was still waiting for a furniture delivery so we agreed to do it next week.   I left and met Lisa at the library Cambio where the Gringos and Mexicans practice language skills.

 She  introduced me to Dolores, a retired traveler from Manhattan.  We all had coffee.  I had a nice Spanish Torilla with Chorizo and Queso.   Dolores was practicing her Spanish. She was doing a 300 km bike trip with a group next week!   Last spring she hiked the Santiago Pilgrimage trail in Spain.  It took her 6 weeks.  She was planning a return to  Oaxaca in February.   
          I left them to pick up my Dry Cleaning and return home.   Lisa stopped by later that afternoon to drop her Backpack off for storage at my place while she heads to the   beach for a week of sun then off to Oakland for Christmas.  She returns here to stay February 1, 2015.           Hungry, I bussed it to Viejo Lira Italian Restaurante for another Pizza Primivera and Wine.  I will try more on that menu…so good.   The town is starting to decorate for Christmas.

         Surprise, no water when I returned home.

SUNDAY        Well, still no water so I emailed the landlady. She got the message and I have water.

 Tuesday morning I was up at 7 am packed, out the door and arrived at the Library to catch the tour to Yagul .  Thirty of us boarded a caravan bus and Larry’s (our leader and organizer) Van and arrived around 10 am at the site about 30 miles out of Oaxaca.

Our Leader

    Larry filled us in on some of the history that dates back 3000 years before the birth of Christ.  It wasn’t until around 700 AD when the Zapotec City of 6000 was flourishing as the palace of the King.  He just sitting up there sipping a Mescal and watching the world go by.  

    Somewhere around 1200 the Zapotec’s abandoned Yagul and moved to Talacalula near by.
    Don’t quote me on any of this.  Larry sent us off to explore and requested we be back in an hour to start our hike.  There was a trail leading up to a summit overlooking Yagul but I was hesitant to CLIMB anything other then a ladder.

 I did it but it took me a few stops along the way to admire the view.  The hour was very interesting and we had the entire World Heritage Site to ourselves.

THE BALL COURT

     Now we started down the road then off on to a trail that became no trail and we reached a dead end after what seemed an hour.  We had a German couple that works as guides for the US National Park system and leads hikes throughout the Sierra Nevada and Rocky Mountains all summer from Denver to San Francisco.  They back tracked and found where we missed a turnoff to cross a stream to connect to the real path.  

THE PATH IS HERE SOMEWHERE?

      I was doing OK.  Stopping on occasion when the pain in my legs got severe…then starting up again.  Two other lagers were with me.  I thought out of sympathy.  One was an Marine that did two tours of Vietnam in 68 and 72.  He said he just killed everyone and let God sort it out.  Now he was close to my age and more mellow.  Turned out his High School sweetheart, the other lager was not sympathizing but was started to dehydrate.  I noticed she wasn’t drinking her water so encouraged her to do so.  It was hot and there was no shade.  At 6000 feet the sun has more intensity and even Marine guy was stopping along the way.  When we were up to 3 miles, the rest of the crowd had left and were in the village.

 The guides split up…one to get Larry to drive what was now a road, back to pick up the lady.  The other guide stayed to assist.  He gave her an umbrella to shield her from the sun and more water.  I was up ahead determined to make the Pueblo up ahead when I spotted Larry’s van. He went to pick up the guide and the lady then returned to pick up the Marine and I.  

BRO WAS IN CHARGE OF CARRYING LARRY’S CHIHUAHUA

     Once in the village we were OK after some more water while the rest drank beer.  I ate my sandwiches and after 1/2 hour milling around a strange town that seem modern in the square but way back in time outside of the center.  Oxen pulling plow with the farmer tilling the soil.  People riding by on donkey’s and horses.  Boys herding sheep in the fields.  Somethings that I never would have seen staying in Oaxaca.  I doubt I’ll ever do another hike with the group as that was the one with the least effort and the shortest time…but you never know.

1920

          Every month or so, the  Teatro Macedonia De Alcala  , features a Simulcast from the Metropolitan Opera in New York.  It is Closed Caption in Spanish..so like a language and cultural lesson at once.  Saturday I got to see The Barber of Seville with Isabel Leonard as Rosina.  

      I bought a ticket for what I thought was the upstairs loge, so I could sleep if necessary.  There was a Spanish lady there, so I assumed I shared the box with her. She informed me I didn’t.  I then checked with the usher and discovered I bought the seat below her on the first floor and ended up sitting with an acquaintance.  He was a retired lawyer from Louisiana who took a case to the Supreme Court and won.  He was also an Opera buff that started going when he was 15 years of age.  He had toured the MET in NYC and saw many Operas there in his day.  He listens to WXXI out of Rochester. N.Y. every Sunday on his computer because they play Operas.  It was a spectacular performances by all the cast.  I left after the first intermission.  The Theater is air conditioned and I didn’t dress for that.  It was still worth the $10 ticket.
        I went to lunch at La Quinque.  It is a popular restaurant I used to frequent but this was my first time back since last visit to Oaxaca.  The Chef greeted me and took my order for Fresh Baked Salmon with Seasoned Spinach on top.  It was delicious.

I already ate half.

        SUNDAY       Today there is a final concert marking the end of the 21 day International Music Festival.  I am off to see that.  People ask, what do you do in Oaxaca.  Everything I possibly can.  There is an abundant selection of all kinds of activities and great weather year round.  There is a lot in the evenings that I don’t attend.  Not because it’s not enjoyable but I rather be home relaxing and in bed early.

Belgium Brass Band

Oaxaca’s Orchestra

Soprano Singer

      The concert started out with speeches about the Festival.  The Belgium Brass Band played followed by a full orchestra doing Mozart.  A soprano female joined and did another set then I left during intermission.  There was a classical Guitarist coming on but I was tired already.

MONDAY     Bill had my Mi Pad ready when I arrived at the library this morning.  Enrique’s labor charges turned out to be 300 Pesos instead of the original 200 he estimated. Seems China confounded him and it took longer than expected.  $20 was not bad for 1 1/2 hours on a computer by a pro. 

        I met my connection for  lunch and finally stocked up for  the next 5 months.  I was almost out.  That costs me lunch, a few beers and another 300 Pesos.  I returned home a satisfied customer, retired early after preparing my lunch for  tomorrow’s hike to Yagul.  My casa is named Yagul…coincidence?

SLEEPING ON THE JOB  I had been doing more walking in preparation for this hike.  It was 4 miles and flat land, which is the easiest hike of the year and first stop is the ruins to explore before walking to the local village.  A 12 year old could do this…my first 5 mile hike when I was 12 with Boy Scouts and a back pack for  a  weekend outing in the woods. Guess what…I did it then but couldn’t do it now!         I did buy a pair of shoes, having left mine at home, but they were leather, casual, and not for hiking.  I put on heavy socks and my Columbia Sandals, shorts, short sleeve shirt and a baseball cap.  I used my computer carrying case for water, sandwiches and and orange.        Oh…she is back at work!

       Some days I’m hesitant to depart my Oasis and venture out for fear Oz will come upon me like a tornado, suck me into it’s Vortex then drop me at my door at Midnight totally confused, amazed, bewildered, happy and awestruck …all at that moment…Oh …that was last night.  Get a grip, don’t drink Mescal on an empty stomach…or just don’t drink Mescal..Whoa.   The maid woke me to clean the house.  
     I took off to the library and meet Bill and Enrique to find out if they managed to get China out of my Mi Pad. They weren’t there so I had lunch and returned home and stayed there just relaxing or recouperating.
      
THURSDAY

I returned to the library to try and catch Bill and Enrique and see how my Chinese Mi Pad was doing.  Couldn’t find them so being the actual date for the Mexican Revolution I meandered over to the Zocalo area took some photos, had a coffee and returned home to meet with Lisa. 

Recycle

      She wanted to reimburse me for booking her place at the library for Thanksgiving.  I had been trying to get some American dollars to send my Grandson for his birthday and couldn’t find any so Lisa said she would drop off some that evening on the way to Yoga.  I reimbursed her in Pesos then left for dinner at Veijo Libre Italian Restaurante for , you guessed it…a Pizza.  Regrettably I departed without my camera.
     I feasted on the best Pizza Primivera I’ve ever had, a great Malbec wine while listening to some wonderful blues music in the background.  I saved half the Pizza for a snack then took off for the Opera House and a concert by the Brodsky Quartet from London.  
       They did Shostakovitch , a Russian composer.  Just awesome and the first time I had the experience of witnessing a world class performance…FREE.  When I tried to enter, the usher told me I would have to leave my Take Out…Out of the theater.  I told her I wasn’t going to eat it but she protested the smell of food was not good during a concert.  I left it then found a seat but kept thinking of how good it was.  I refused to give it to a beggar …but gave the boy money instead.  I had five minutes before they closed the doors.  Returning outside I grabbed my take out, ran around the corner, took it out of the Styro container, placed it in the bag, tied it , put it inside my coat pocket and was back in my seat just in time for the start.  
     The Quartet was sharing the stage during the first half of the performance with 8 other musicians that sat behind them and played musical chairs whenever they played a different piece.  The students got to play with the masters.  It was interesting but I was getting bored, tired, and starting to smell like Pizza.
       When the intermission came I tried to duck out the side exit.  I went out the wrong side and ended up almost entering backstage when I encountered one of the student musicians I had just been listening to.  She directed me back from whence I came.  Now the real show was about to begin so I sat down prepared to take a nap….no nap.  The Quartet was on stage and performing at it’s best.  It was awesome, oh I said that before…well I enjoyed it immensely.  
      I took a taxi back and retired immediately. PROMISE I WON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT MY CAMERA AGAIN!!!!

My Green Space Oasis

Water Helps my Bougainvilleas

This Holiday is celebrated today but is actually on the 20th of November.  Bus loads of parents, relatives and friends of the Missing 43 are arriving in Oaxaca today. There is a protest Procession through the town to the Basilica to bring attention to the unsolved mystery of the students that were taken away.  There have been seventy arrests so far.  Five of the students were shot and killed on the spot. March for Ayotzinapa.

TUESDAY

Got a great night’s rest. I was leaving when Tom Wolfe, my neighbor , commented he seldom sees me.  That I seem to come and go like a cat.  We chatted a bit and he mentioned that yesterday was Buen Fin day…or something of the sort.  I recalled seeing Buen Fin posters but had no idea what it was.

 Well Tom explained it was Independence Day  Promo like Black Tuesday or Monday or whatever that Free Enterprise , Consumer, Capitalistic Sale to get everyone spending their last dime or going over the limit of all their credit cards in the insane belief they are SAVING FUCKIN MONEY…because it is the sale of the year.  Spend all now…because it won’t be cheaper until next year…or until the next sale. 

  So Tom confided that he went out and bought ALL the boxed Tinto Vino in the store at Pitico…Circle K…7/11…and he didn’t care what they thought…even though when they questioned him, he jokenly lied that he was resupplying his restaurant…but in reality, he was reinforcing the American Captalist belief…BUY More when low…sell high.   Mexican’s, I think resented that bravado when they are struggling to feed themselves…yet I would have taken advantage of that sale had I known…and it would have been for Tinto Vino (not all they had but maybe a quarter of it.  Now I know my neighbor and I have something in common.  Perhaps I can shame him into sharing some of that boxed Tinto Vino with me?   

So I arrived at my Doctor’s office this morning to drop off updated scripts and blood workup…just in case. 

 Visited my ex-landlady to contact one of her employees.  I am meeting Juanita this Saturday to see if she will make me Pumpkin Tamales to contribute to Thanksgiving Dinner next week. 

 Met with Barbara to look at the other 1 Bedroom she will have available and took pictures of both.

 

#4 Second Choice

Price is high but told her I’d think about it then got a haircut from my Oaxacaquena Barber…he trimmed my beard…Sean Connery…eat your heart out. 

 There was a concert at the Basilica where I met Gloria in her wheelchair with her Mexican Caretaker.

 They had come for the concert also, but neither of us realized it was an electronic music concert….sounded like something from outer space echoing through the entire neighborhood with people just standing in bewilderment at the strange sounds that seemed to come out of the sky.

 After Cappuccino and Crepa Exotic at Nuevo Mundo

I took the bus to the Plaza de Valle to get my SHOES.

 The recommended shoe store kept me waiting while FOUR salesmen stood around trying to look busy.  When I would approach them they said just a minute. So I thanked them and sat down and waited and watched them mill around.

 Stupid Gringo Tico like the Senorita Bar Girl that gets you to watch her pour you a tall shot of Tequila from a shot glass she pulls out of a holster that is holding up her bikini.  Then tilts your head back while she pushes her breasts against your chest and takes your head in both hands after you put the Tequila in your mouth and then shakes the shit out of your head while shouting in Mexican…under her breath…you stupid gringo…have another!  The audience claps, you have a stupid grin and an empty wallet as she moves on to the next gringo. All you gringo friends can’t wait to show you the pictures.

I left and went next door to another store that Barbara , my maybe new landlady next year recommended and was greeted by everyone as I walked through the store…like Selfridges in England.  The shoe salesman immediately greeted me and listened while I explained what I needed.  He then presented me with shoes to try on and 10 minutes later I walked out happy with new shoes.

 Then at the Sorina in the mall, I found some Chic Peas for a salad, Shampoo with Keratin, some smoked pork chops and a Birthday card for my Grandson.  

Then the bus dropped me at my front door and now I’m off to Happy Hour next door to where I might live.

 I want to find out what that place is like at 2 am on a Saturday night…since their back wall is my bedroom wall.

      They do serve good wine at a good price.  The place was empty but happy hour was over at 6 pm when I finally arrived.  I went up to the roof top and it was nice but my patio was below on the other side of the wall and there were speakers set up on the roof for music late at night.  I inquired about live music and they said no but while sitting on the roof top I could hear loud music being played through the sound system from below…with no customers except me.  I have to return again on the weekend during the late night hours to see how loud the music is.  Perhaps that is why the people in the unit I want are leaving?

     I had a great walk home in my new shoes.  My feet were questioning why they were confined to a shoe.  It had been a number of months.  I reassured them it was for their own good.  I had no ankle pain or fear of spraining an ankle with the new support. 

ONE OF MY NEW DOLLS

 I stopped at a Doll shop that I’ve passed by many times but this time the proprietor was there to greet me. She reminded me of my Grandmother that used to make Barbie Doll clothes for my children. This lady made and created dolls and doll clothes.  It was a strange feeling, like going back in time…Twilight Zone.   
       I remarked that I had never seen a shop like this in all of Mexico.  She explained that there used to be many but they have all gone broke…she is the only one left that she is aware of.  Her dogs, both small Scottish Terriers greeted me when I walked in.  The Black one was friendly and the White one was mean.

The Propietor never stopped smiling …but of course I bought the “Mammie” Doll that you don’t see at all anymore…couldn’t resist Emmet Kelly puppet (I had the original doll…along with Howdy Dowdy..and Charlie MacCarthy)  …then I had to throw in a Bart Simpson puppet…for when I’m in Hospice.

I passed a Graphic Art Shop and noticed a man with a Brooklyn T-Shirt on that turned out only spoke Spanish and had never been to Brooklyn…but it got me in the shop.  Very nice and if I lived in Oaxaca full time with my own place, their art would be in my place.

I moved on to a Chocolate Creation place that had molds for Chocolate.  Grandma and Granddaughter were having dinner when I entered.  They do special occasions.

Further down the road I passed a restaurant that I frequented once last year but remembered how good it was so I entered hoping to purchase some Take away food but he was having problems getting his burners to work

…maybe he didn’t pay the gas bill?  I took another photo to remind me to return.

 He reminded me of me…starting out…all talent …and no money.

Then I passed Lary’s .

 Looked like a Gay clothing store but when I entered out of curiosity of course…it was body building health food…and Gay clothing store.  I accepted a brochure by Adonis…or Lary…I’m not sure…thanked him and left as his dog barked at me from the 2nd story window.

I was headed for my Mescal bar the Taverna when I noted a medical apparatus store for people with sprained ankles, broken hips, bad feet, etc.  Where was that when I needed it.
Too late…I have real shoes right now…and they keep reminding me of that as I continue to my Bar.  

At last, I get to sit down and be served.  The owner recognized me along with the waiter.  I sat at the same table and within seconds there was my Mescal out of the gallon jug with a plate of not just Limes and Oranges…but cucumbers and salt.  The owner came over and welcomed me back…I couldn’t understand or hear what he said so just responded with a sincere Gracia’s and he patted me on the back.  I felt I had a new home.

I left after my second Mescal…hoping I could make it to my real home.  A vendor hawking Tamales on his bicycle was passing and my stomach was growling…I stopped him and bought one Chicken Tamale…gave him a tip for a photo and arrived at my front door shortly thereafter.

I can’t take another day…tomorrow is sleep in.