Adventures of a Retired Nomad

Mike and David in Albania.

Mike and his Son Demir, finally rose and showered while David loaded his bags in the car. He anticipated spending the day in an air conditioned car to Shkoder, Albania, taking some photos and having fun. Hopefully he would end  the day back at his favorite hotel in Podgorica catching up on his email. He would book reservations in Kosovo and train travel to Greece.  They were off for the day.  Mike stopped in Tuzi for coffee and then announced the rental agency informed him he could not take the car to Albania without a stamp that they could not issue because the car was not insured for out of country.  There was a lot of discussion over options and more of Mike’s friends arrive to offer their take on the possibilities.  Dennis stopped in with his father and uncle and David was beginning to get used to these many changes in plans. We finally decided to drive to the border then get a Taxi to Shkoder and back at the end of the day.

The two lane narrow road was under construction and full of non-stop traffic of large semi trucks and cars going back and forth between the two countries.  It reminded David of the border of Arizona and Mexico in Nogales.  It looked like it too. We arrived at the border in 30 minutes and Mike knew the border guard on the Montenegro side.  We got to Albania and Mike said a friend was on his way to give us a ride to Skoder? The friend turned out to be a Taxi driver who charged David 30Euros for the trip. It took one hour of a rough dirt road under construction.  The driver took us to Rozafa Castle overlooking the city. It has been in existence long before the Romans conquered it in 167BC.  Shkoder is the oldest and most cultural city in Albania.  Over 2000 years old, it is one of the oldest cities in the world.

We explored the remains of the Castle, has some much needed water and returned to the city to meet the Taxi driver at the designated hotel.  It was hot and most businesses closed from 1pm to 5pm due to the heat. We took a bus to the hotel where we found a restaurant open across the street.  We had three pizza’s a beer for breakfast.  We sat on a terrace with 6 Czech backpackers that had been touring Albania for two weeks of camping.  Mike wanted to buy some T-Shirt souvenirs to take back to Tuzi but everything was closed. We had coffee at the Hotel until the Taxi driver arrived and returned us to the border. Mike drove David back to Podgorica where is checked in to his hotel , showered and fell asleep in his AIR CONDITIONED room.

Suprise!  None of Mike’s friends or relatives seem to know anything about Mike’s uncle having an emergency or being ill.  Nine in the morning came and went until after a few complimentary Grappa  provided by the distiller himself and many coffees, Mike showed with an entourage of people including his Uncle and his friends, cousins, etc from Hunington Beach, L.A. Corona,California and Anthem,Arizona. Most everyone spoke English and all rose when the Uncle showed and no one sat until he sat.  It was like a scene out of the Godfather.  The patio was crowded and others started coming over to pay thier respects .  Everyone was friendly and Mike apologized for being late but gave no explaination  for why he reniged on last night and his being so late this morning. His uncle was in great shape and a very classy man.  David had turned in his key and paid his bill but couldn’t get anything to eat as this was a bar Cafe not a restaurant.

Mike left and said he had to take his Uncle and friend home and would be back.  David inquired about their trip to Albania but Mike said it was too late and he would return in an hour and a half and they would go North and tomorrow morning Albania for sure.  David returned to the restaurant he ate at last night and ordered the Qebab which turned out to be a plate of sausages and fries with a salad.  He was captive again with no where to go and nothing to do.  He had asked Mike again about staying in Podgorica at the hotel he liked so much.  He said he could take a bus and taxi and meet Mike at his house tomorrow. Mike refused and insisted he stay with him. David explained he gets up two or three times a night and didn’t have his own bathroom the entire trip until just the other day. He explained how he sleeps late , sometimes goes to bed early or late and wakes in the night.  No problem …you stay with me.  While he was still waiting for Mike’s return….two hours later, the hotel clerk returned his money and said the owner insisted the room was complimentary.  His name was Mike also and had worked in Vero Beach Fla, Aspen Colorado, as well as California.

Mike showed up so David loaded his suitcase in the car while Mike was busy visiting with more friends he recognized.  David was waiting at the car when Mike motioned him over to explain the car was overheating and the rental company was on its way to look at the car.  David sat back down and waited until an hour later when the the man came to take the car to the repair shop with David’s bag and computer in it.  An hour later Mike decided to walk over to the man’s rental place which was a back lot  about a half a block down a hot dusty road behind the cafe. It was a garage that looked like a Chop Shop where he fixed up wrecked cars, painted them, then rented them out.  The car was there with the hood open and the bags in the back but no one around.  We took the bags and walked back to the Cafe.

Mike called a friend he had not seen in 18 years but sponsored when he was a refugee from Kosovo at 16 years old in the ’90’s when Mike was going to Italy.  The man,Dennis heard he was in town and called to tell him he would like to buy him a drink and see him again.  Mike called and said we need a ride so Dennis took us to Mike’s house out in the desert a mile or so away.  Mike suggested he get a swim suit and he take us all to the river where we could relax, have that drink and catch up with old times.  We dropped our stuff at his home and Dennis returned to take us to the river.  Mike told me all of this town was Muslim and all his friends and the wedding was Muslim. That explained why I never saw a women at the Cafe except once when one came with her husband for a short visit.

 When we arrived at the river all the women were down by the river with the children and all the men were playing dominos and socializing at the cafe.  The Cafe was full of Montenegreans and most all were from N.Y.C.  I met a man from Middletown , N.Y. that in his younger days was a bouncer at the Club 54 in NYC.  He used to keep them 500 deep in the streets in the winter waiting to get in. He partied every night for almost 8 years.  His brother Omar was there and we all had a great time.  Now that he is older he buys cattle in Freehold , N.Y. and processes it then sells it .  His brother is in the restaurant business.  They go fly fishing for fun.  A group of people kept coming in and joining us.  Everyone kisses each other on the cheek and shakes hands when they arrive and depart.  It is the custom. An ex professional soccer player had lost his career and left Paris to return home…I think it was drugs.  The Cafe owner had been a dealer in his past in NYC.  The brother of the owner of the Imperial , Mike, that gave me my room for free was there with his son and a huge tureen of fried fresh Carp caught in Skader Lake was brought  to share with all at the table.  Bread was served along with it and another round of beer was bought.  Then after a man with a Watermelon showed up and it was sliced up and served as a dessert for all.  The cafe owner put a hose on the flat roof over the patio the the water streamed off of it providing a shower to cool off in and an evap cooler effect on the patio.  The day was spent talking about travel and sharing.

Vic from Jersey Shore

Our ride left but Mike got another to take us back to our car.  The rental guy had fixed it so we drove back to Mike’s house and David took a shower while Mike left again to visit his sister and son. He said to make yourself at home!  The living room couch was to be my bed that night so I spread out a sheet , turned on the TV and after an hour of watching snow with intermittent  news shows in Montenegrin I took another shower to cool off and attempted to sleep.   Mike’s other son  arrived looking for his father, said hello and offered David some gum.  I told him where his father went and he ran off to be with them.  A half hour later, he returned to tell David his father had gone to Tuzi.  David tried to go to sleep but the heat and humidity was so oppressive.  All the windows were open, a full moon out and a barking dog to lull him to sleep.  Finally as he dozed off , Mike and his son returned and wanted to know if he was comfortable?  Then  after an hour into sleep the phone rang.  David thought it was his alarm an fumbled in the dark to get it out of the suitcase only to discover it was the phone.  Mike finally answered it.  It must have been important because he talked a LONG time.  David, again tried to return to sleep and after a couple runs to the bathroom in the night…the sun came beaming its TORCH through the window illuminating and heating up the living room to oven status.  He took another shower hoping Mike might wake and they could get in the Air Conditioned car and head for Albania then on to David’s hotel in Podgorica.

 The plans for the following day and the wedding were already made.  David would take a Taxi from Podgorica with all his luggage , arrive at Mike’s, swap his sandals for Mike’s shoes and they would go to the wedding.  Mike said it starts at 7pm on Sunday and goes until 3am so be here at 6pm.  David read the invitation that said it started at 8pm and had no intentions of arriving in 100% heat at 6 pm …he wanted to stay in the hotel but  that would defeat the whole purpose.  Their is no planning anything around here and nothing is certain.  It is a new day and we shall see what happens…David is already sweating at 7:30am while everyone is asleep.

To ______________and _________________ , I wish you  all the happiness in the world on this, your Wedding Day and every day you share together.
It is an honor to be here with you , your family, and all your friends for this special occasion.
Best Wishes for your bright future together.
David Taylor
Your Uncle “Mike’s” good friend from Arizona

This morning David contracted the same taxi that brought him to the Ideal Hotel to transport him to Mike’s hometown of Tuzi and the Imperial Hotel where he was booked for 4 days at the highest rate he has paid yet…$75 a night.  Breakfast at the Ideal was Ideal and though he was still sick he managed to keep the meal down.  Victor and he exchanged emails and a quick photo shoot before saying goodbye to all.  The owners and staff made his stay there very nice and reasonable.  The Taxi took him to the ATM to make sure he had some cash as Tuzi didn’t sound like the place with a lot of ATM’s or Visa available.  He went back to the Pharmacy and bought the equivalent of Imodium D as his Pro Biotics weren’t working .  The pleasant Pharmacist took care of him.  She was from Macedonia near Ochid and recommended I visit there. It was on my list but I cancelled it due to time constraints.

The Taxi delivered me to the Imperial which was not at all like the internet photo that I think was taken 10 years ago when the place was built.  The patio was crowded with all men having cigarettes and coffee. The manager introduced me to Mike’s younger  brother Dino.  He was a handsome man and had been to Phoenix but immigration deported him.  Dino called Mike’s sister’s at the house to let him know I was here and told me he should arrive shortly.  Both his sisters from Corona California were here for the wedding.  Victor had  told me 500 was a small wedding and that they usually start on Saturday and don’t end until Sunday night.  The manager showed me my Penthouse Apartment with two bedrooms, kitchen, Dining Room bath and living room.  My Taxi driver couldn’t believe it when he delivered my bag.  I paid him $25 …$15 too much but I liked him. He let me make that decision.

The owner, a childhood friend of Mike’s came over and introduced himself and another man that had lived in LA for 16 years.  It seems all of these people had made their living as house painters.  I even met Sammie’s uncle, the guy who repainted my bedroom at the condo.  The guy from LA and I sat and talked about travel and his life in LA and coming home again until Mike arrived.  He said he never really expected me and thought all that talk of travel was so much bull.  He wanted me to stay with him but I didn’t want to impose with the wedding and all.  He paid the tab and suggested we go swimming in the river but I was still recuperating so declined.  He said he would be back and we could go to dinner that evening .  I agreed with that.  He said he never rented the car he was going to because he had so much remodeling to do at the house after he \had arrived but if I wanted to chip in, he could get one for a few days at $60 a day and we could share the costs and he would take me to Tirana the capital of Albania tomorrow morning.  This was perfect.  He left to return later that evening and I went to freshen up and get on the internet to book my train to Greece.  The Manager assured me I had internet available…wrong..it was on their cable only not wireless.  I was not spending  4 nights at these prices without my interrnet access..  I also noticed  there was only one sheet on the bed and as I came out of the shower…there were no towels…I found them in the bedroom dresser.  No toilet paper so got the bartender to get me a couple of used ones out of the hall bathroom downstairs…cobwebs in the shower and  someones used  hairbrush on the sink…not exactly a four star hotel.  When the manager showed me the room he asked my name…I replied David…and he immediatly replied…Jewish?   I had never been asked that before and knew this was half Muslim and half Catholic…no Jews.  I said I was a King but not Jewish.  There were Minarets around town and people did look at me funny.  I think the Albanian Mafia is headquartered not far from here and maybe hosts their meetings in my Penthouse when it is not being rented.  Mike had commented that he knew the owner but don’t leave anything of value in the room?  OK…so now I venture across to a “Internet Cafe” across the street.  It was set up with plugs for your laptop and high speed internet free access…but  the  connection was open so anyone could tap into your computer.  I tried to get on without leaving myself open for virus or hanky panky but it was impossible and after an hour I quit with  the intention of checking out the next day.  Mike was going to pick me up in the morning for Albania so I would take my bags with me and have him drop back to the hotel I was at.  If we now had a car it was only a short 15 minute drive to Podgorica and my hotel.  The money I would save would have been the money I gave him for my share of the car and still some extra for gas.  That  evening he drove up all upset and apologized but his uncle was seriously ill or in an accident and he and his sisters had to go over there now so I would have to go eat alone.  I briefly met them then went down the street for some chicken and returned to my room.  I had mentioned my dilemma with Mike and he insisted I would stay at his home and could use the internet access his boys used..  He was not computer literate himself.  He would pick me up at 9 am for Albania tomorrow.  I retired to get on my word processor and do what I’m doing now.  My computer  would NOT open at all.  It would start and then crash.  I tried in Safe Mode, and four other  modes.  I could not get a screen to come up.  I tried opening it from my flash drive.  It would not boot up.  I unplugged it and plugged it.  I swore at it and teased it gently.  I was in a panic.  The thought of spending the next 5 weeks WITHOUT A COMPUTER threw me in a panic.  I was cursing the Cafe across the street when it suddenly , inexplicably booted up…I put in my password and prayed…it started.  I immediatly ran a security scan and am still running it.  Thank god for small miracles.  Now I hope Mike’s uncle is OK and we won’t have a funeral along with  the wedding.

David managed to get  out of bed after a late night watching 3 Frontline Documentaries about  International Corporate Bribery….Massive Child Molestation  by the Catholic Decons, and Priests all over remote regions of Alaska, and WikiLeaks disclosures.  Four others documentaries relating to Bin Laden, Afganistan, and the Taliban…were banned in Montenegro.


He surprised himself and the lady in the bathroom when he walked in on her taking a shower.  The restaurant stopped serving Breakfast at 10am so it was coffee and a crossiant before checking out of the Kotor Hostel.  He was weak and needed nourishment but water was more important right now.  Three bottles later he was on his way to the bus station in another 100% hot day.  He stopped on the way to catch his breath , looked down and found 115 Euros on the ground.  Praise Allah! The bus David wanted went by at the same time.  Trade offs.


  He bought his ticket and was told 45 minutes….then 45 minutes later…he was told 45 minutes and had to pay another 1/2 Euro for a new ticket.  The bus broke down.  Allah is getting back to me! Now he boards the Bus and finds it HOT AND NO A/C!  The only place David wants to be at this point was in bed in an Airconditioned room in Tuzi.  He was going to stay at Mike’s house but if he accepts and Mike has no A/C, it will be another rough night.  He will try and check in to his hotel a day early instead.


Surprise!  There is no bus to Tuzi.  I researched this on the internet.  O.K.  I’ll take a taxi as it is supposed to be close by.  What…10 hours to Tuzi, Albania!  I never could find it on a map but Mike said go to Tuzi and then take a Taxi to his house.  Everyone knows him.  I know he said Montenegro but many times mentioned he had property in Albania. I’m confused and so I ask the Taxi to take me to a reasonably priced hotel with A/C and internet.  He did for 3 Euros.  It was the Ideal Hotel and was 30Euros. David was going to check in his hotel in Tuzi a day early so this is fine and the temperature now is over 111%.  His plan was to get on the internet and find Tuzi then call Mike.  He couldn’t get on with the password so came back down and met Vic, one of the relatives who sounded like, looked like, talked like he was from Brooklyn. Turned out he lived not far from there most of his life.  He is Muslim and his father was a chef.  The whole family worked in the restaurant business.   He got me right on the internet and told me he was in Tuzi yesterday.  He pulled it up on Google so I could see it was only 8 miles away.  Why everyone thought I meant Tuzi Albania is beyond me.  Vic said his family is the largest family from Montenegro that lives in the U.S.  I’m not sure what he was referring to by “Family” but he directed me to a Pharmacy and a restaurant down the street that the “Family” also owns.


The streets were deserted at 5pm …not even a passing car.  It was so oppressively hot, I thought I was on another planet or in the Twilight Zone.  I got my Medicine and had a Meatloaf dinner then returned to my room for a shower…cold!

David’s plans took an unexpected and unwanted turn of events the last evening in Kotor.  The day was like any other day…Hot Hot Hot.  The high in Kotor beat the High in Phoenix by a few degrees.  Phoenix is in the thralls of it’s Monsoon season and Kotor in on a Bay so both have high  humidity.  Kotor has no or very few Air Conditioners.  David had his morning coffee.  He stopped at the bakery and picked up a spinach pastry and sandwich then had some local cheese and more coffee at the Air Conditioned restaurant he ate at last night.  He ran into the Hostel Manager at the market where he added a Coke, and some orange drink to his bag then proceeded home.  The third floor has a kitchenette and lounge of sorts and minimal Air Conditioning.  He took his magazine to read and sandwich and Coke.  He noticed the meat in the sandwich tasted tainted so after eating half he threw out the rest, finished his Coke and went back up to his room to play with his photographs.  An hour or so passed and he started to feel nauseated, with cramps setting in and the need to spend the rest of the afternoon on the toilet with diarrhea and the dry heaves.  It didn’t help that he was still getting over a cold and the side effects of a cough were disastrous.  He was weakening fast and trying to take liquids as fast as he was expelling them.  Afraid that he may faint in this hot room with no one to notice his dehydrated condition, he returned to the lounge.  There he spent most of the evening on the toilet or asleep on the couch hoping someone would come in to get him some Imodium D and electrolytes. Five hours later he woke feeling better so went back up to his room, took a shower, and thanked God it was mostly over.  The idea of taking a 3 hour bus ride in the morning was scary.  He thought of calling Mike as a last resort to come get him.  It looks OK now even though he needs nourishment, the thought makes him sick.

View…pants?  or no pants?

The first day I took pictures and explored the old town.  It is such a maze that it took me hours of going in circles to find the place where the Montenegro Hostel put me and hours to find the Montenegro Hostel to get my laundry back …even though they were less than 300 meters away or 1/4 of a city block. 

Tomorrow will be my third day and I think I finally got the hang of it.  The Hostel offers specials…as do most Hostels…in conjunction with local restaurants and pubs.  My first night I bought a ticket for a complete three course Seafood entree meal at the local Italian restaurant.  I ended up sharing part of my meal with one of the local cats.  


The evening cools down to 90% so I decided to leave my walled city and venture out into the real world.  I was passing a fountain in the park when I noticed a commotion.  There was a big Black Lab in the fountain but couldn’t get out.  Apparently, in the heat, the dog thought the water would be cool so jumped in but the walls were straight up and he was swimming and swimming but could not get out and was barking for help.  A huge crowd gathered to assist but no one could get him out.  They found some wooden planks and put them in the water but he couldn’t navigate them. I saw the police across the street so enlisted their help. They weren’t going to assist …no American police mentality there…but they called and said someone would come and help.  Meanwhile some park gardeners tried to help and I kept going thinking it would work out when the help arrived.  Well 20 minutes later I’m returning by the fountain and the dog is still yelping for help.  A different crowd was there again trying to assist.  I went into my Old City walls confident that eventually the dog would be saved.  Later I started getting pangs of regret.  Why didn’t I just get in the damn fountain and lift the dog out?  I had on a swim suit.  Just then the dog came running around the corner.  Someone liberated it.  It was running all over , just so happy to be free.  It was like going up to everyone and thanking them.  I never saw a happier dog…so was I.

Tonight I was considering the 3 course Meat entree meal the hostel offered but it has been so oppressively hot that it didn’t sound all that good so I opted for an air-conditioned restaurant that was reasonable.  I had the Chicken breast with rice and cabbage salad accompanied by a large beer.  I did avail myself of the Hostel’s Happy hour special which was 5 Absolute Vodkas at a local pub for one Euro each during Happy Hour.  Happy Hour turned out to be from 10pm to 11pm.  That is the latest I’ve been up.  I arrived right after dinner and after the first two was told they ran out of Absolute and was offering me the local rot gut called Lova which cost $1 in Bosnia…I had to order a Lemonade to dilute it in order to get it down. So much for that deal.  I left and passed a musician in the square as I was headed home. He was playing BoDiddley then Bob Dylan, and Norwegian Wood and every song on my playlist.  He must have been tuned into to me as I passed by.  I haven’t seen TV, read a newspaper or seldom even talked to anyone in English so this was refreshing.  I sat next to an Englishman named Daniel that has lived right next to where I’m staying in Old Town Kotor for over 4 years.  He is involved in Real Estate and also has some Montenegrin s out selling LED flashlights to tourists for him.  He gave me one. He sat in with the musician earlier and commented that he had been playing non stop for four hours!  I was impressed and bought Daniel a beer and he bought me a wine in return.  He sailed the Caribbean , vacationed on the West coast of Africa during December and January and was a very likable chap…he also played Texas Holdem.  He suggested that if I couldn’t hike the Mountain wall of the city, I should take a taxi to the top and hike the crest then come down.  


 It was the latest I had stayed up in a year I think.  Life is different at that time at night.  I forgot how much I enjoyed it, thanked the musician and promised to return  my last night which would be the next night to hear some more.  He reminded me of Shea Vino…one of my favorite troubadours.  It is after 1 am now and I have to raise my winnings another 100K before retiring.  Later

David awoke and stepped out of his room to shower and there was his Dominatrix Inn Keeper standing in the hall with a tray for him!  She was in his face from his arrival to departure. He thanked her for the Coffee and she quickly reminded him she made Tea for him NOT coffee. He could take his TEA on the balcony when he finished.  He was packed and ready to get out of this nightmare not unlike Stephen King’s Misery.  She shook his hand and thanked him for allowing her to overcharge him and wished him a healthy journey.  


He stood out in the street with others waiting for the bus.  It was the only place with shade and this sun is HOT.  It was only 9am and he had to make the Main Station to get a ticket for the only bus to Kotor that left at 10:30am. He was anxious as it was Sunday and he got stuck in Quepos, Costa Rica one Sunday when the only bus was full and he forgot to reserve a space.  That costs him $100 for a Taxi to San Jose to catch his plane. He arrived just in time and though they advertised Visa the ticket seller said cash only.  He went to the ATM got cash and returned in time  to get the last ticket !   People  in line behind him now had to wait another day.  He checked his bag in storage to have a quick breakfast across the street.  Then he realized in his haste he had mislaid his ticket.  It wasn’t in his shirt pocket, his four pants pockets nor his 7 Jacket pockets.  Then he remembered getting his ATM Visa card from his suitcase to get money and replacing it in the suitcase.  He ran back and checked out his bag he just put in storage , looked in the special compartment where his Visa card was but NO ticket!  
He remembered throwing out his map of Dubrovnik as just extra trash to carry that he no longer needed.  There were three trash barrels near the ticket counter and he went through everyone but wasn’t even sure what the ticket looked like?  He ran back to the counter and the cashier remembered him. She thought he had put the ticket with his change money in his wallet but he didn’t.  He requested a reissue but she explained he got the last ticket and thier were none in the computer to issue.  He would have to explain to the driver and pay again for the seat he already paid for.  


The long awaited full bus arrived with two non English speaking drivers that wanted 10Kuna to put my bag in stowage. He explained he needed to buy a replacement ticket from them first and handed the driver some money.  He said no change…you change!  


There was a man from Israel there that was told he could just buy the ticket on the bus so he now was stuck with others and wanted to get us all together so we could negotiate a Taxi to Kotor. This sounded good and he was just waiting for the other two to join us before “Doing the Negotiation with the Taxi…claiming he had a lot of experience at this and we shouldn’t have to pay more that Twenty Euro.”  The other two travelers came over and said that the driver has room for all of us and we can pay on the bus.


 I for one jumped at this with the thought of having to return to Hostel Hell in the back of my mind.  I already had my bag tagged so jumped on the bus and readily found a seat as did the rest of the travelers.  The bus departed…we soon realized that it had no A/C or windows to open…only a vent in the roof.  We were all going to die!


This didn’t seem to faze the driver’s assistant and he came along collecting tickets or money and issuing tickets.  The lady next to me was carrying her backpack in her lap and he berated her for not putting in in stowage and demanded she pay the equivalent of $2 which is the cost.
She laughed at him and said she was carrying it to save $2 and refused to give him the money.  He was loud and boisterous with a long lecture but went on collecting his tickets.  He turned out to be a real character.  Sweat was literally pouring off of him, on to the money, and the tickets. He was oblivious to it all.   

The road along the Adriatic was a two lane , winding road that followed the inlets and  the peninsulas, so what appeared on the map to be only 300 km was in actuality twice that.    It was Sunday and a lot of families, campers and vacationers were returning home.  We were making good time until we approached the border and a line of traffic backed up for miles.  We had no A/C and if we had to wait we should all die for sure.  The driver simply moved into the oncoming traffic and started beeping with his assistant waving them off the road.  There were some places that we were facing an on coming transport truck or another bus and there was no room to move off the road.  The gruff assistant got off the bus and started directing everyone to move out of his way like a traffic cop so we could get by.  We were at the border crossing in 10 minutes while others were waiting hours!  It was hilarious to witness and would never have happened without these aggressive drivers.  When we did get to the border the assistant is out there with a cigarette hanging out of his mouth in 100% heat telling the other buses to let him through and bringing the border patrol to our bus first to expedite our trip.  


The bus was now in Montenegro on it’s way to Kotor.  Again the countryside was spectacular with high mountains of 1500 to 2000 meters dropping to azure blue waters and coastal resort towns with their red tile roofs and pebble beaches. These views were around every corner all the way along the coast until our final destination of Kotor.   


David knew the Montenegro Hostel was in the “Old Town” so was walking along with Offal, the Israeli. He was only stopping over to see Kotor on his way to a conference in Budva down the road. The Old City came in to view with a wall around it but looking up the mountain, you could see the wall extended all the way to the top and then back on the other side.  Maybe three miles but straight up the one side and down another!  Offal got all excited and bid me goodbye and he headed for the wall.  I’m hot, as it is now around 2:30 pm , so locate the Hostel and check in.  The young lady in charge felt so bad that I was paying for three people to have a private room .  She had friends in town that rented private rooms for much less money.  It was costing me about $65 a night and I had to share the bathroom but I was tired of travel at this point and need rest.  The young lady carried my heavy bag up four flights of stairs to my room in another building.  She insisted and took the bag from me.  She also took my laundry back to the hostel to wash for me.  I showered got out some clean clothes and was on my way back to the hostel to pay her when Offal came walking down the street having completely walked the entire wall all the way to the top of the mountain .  He said it was beautiful but don’t do it during the afternoon, do it in the morning…yeah right Offal.  He took off to get his bag and a ticket to Budva.  He had refused to pay for his bag storage until his return and berated me with a lecture about skin cancer, for not having a hat to protect myself from the sun.


David took another night in the hostel to give himself a break.  He toured the town and got lost at ever turn.  This is a maze of streets , loaded with primarily Italian tourists.  Marco Polo was born on the Island of Korcula on the Dalmatian coast.  The Romans occupied this area for sometime and a lot of Italians have summer homes here.  The Vatican arrived early on and you see Billboards along the roads of Pope Benedict waving or giving his blessing!  Churches are everywhere and you see people blessing themselves constantly.  It could be at a bus stop , when saying good-bye on the phone, especially when they step out of their house in the morning.  The older people especially.  Maybe I should start blessing myself everyday when I wake and thank God for another day?

The Bay of Kotor, on which the city is located is beautiful and a major destination for Sailboats, Yachts and Cruise lines.  I may go to Albania tomorrow but just to ride around … no organized tours or anything.  This is a time to regenerate my batteries, read and relax.  Three more days and I will be arriving at Muharem Beqaj’s (Burrito Mike, my Poker buddy from Anthem) home just outside of Tuzi for five days to visit and attend his Nephew’s wedding. Then I have to figure out how to get to Athens?

Yes…I am happy because I’m am almost finished walking the entire wall surrounding  Dubrovinick

David met a oouple from Connecticut at the Mostar bus station that were headed to Dubrovnick on the same bus.  They were on a 5 week vacation.  The first two were spent at an apartment in Portugal near Sintra? Then they traveled on to Paris to visit their son .  He was taking classes at the Sorbonne to open a business in Paris.  He and a couple of his friends suceeded beyond their expectations and in March 2011 opened a Mexican 20 seat restaurant with a 4 STAR Michean Chef .  The restaurant garnered rave reviews and was written up in the NY Times.  It has been doing a bruque business ever since and venture capitalists are flocking to them ready to invest in their next restaurant creation.  The Michelan Chef , who I assume garnered big pay also negotiated part ownership.  Seems to me he has a lot of partners to share this wealth of profit from a 20 seat Mexican restaurant.  Personally I would never eat Mexican  in France but who knows.  They left their son and ended in Sarajevo staying with friends from there.  He commented the countryside from Sarajevo (which they flew into from Paris), to Mostar was beautiful.  No arguement from me.  All of the Balkans , so far has been beautiful…in the countryside.  That includes our 3 hour trip to Dubrovnik.

My arrival was confusing.  The directions I recieved from the Hostel were one if I was coming by plane which I wasn’t and another by Bus, which I was.  The bus directions said take #7 but never said where to get off.  I wrote before leaving and requested more explicit directions but just got a message saying “see you tomorrow?  I went to the bus stop and showed a lady who spoke zero English the address in Lapad…a suburb of Dubrovnik.  She  mimed that she was going there so I got on her bus, got off 3 stops later and got on the next bus with her.  She said I had to get off and another lady said I was in Lapad and should get off now or the bus was turning another direction.  I did  but none of the surrounding area looked like the directions to the Hostel.  I stopped and asked a restaurant owner and he called the lady.  He said I had to return to the last stop, and go up the mountain toward the Church about 300 meters.  That was a lot of up hill in 90 % heat carrying everything so I waited and used my bus ticket to go up one stop where I saw the Cafe Teatre which was described as near by.  There a waiter knew the street and gave me more directions to climb up hill.  I finally arrived but was on the verge of dehydration and the owner knew it.  She brought me water and sat me down.  30 minutes later and three glasses of water, some fruit and then some coffee…I was coherent.  She showed me my non A/C room , said she had no internet access and my room was double the cost of what I agreed upon when I booked it.  I had no printer available so nothing in writing and no access to the internet to show her my saved copy .  I was stuck, it was almost 4 pm and my plans were to leave tomorrow but I didn’t even know where I was going,only that I wanted to be in Montenegro.  She was a nut case and everytime I asked her something like what bus stop and what bus do I take to Old Town…she would start telling me “later”, and what a busy day she had.  Then she went on about how normally she only lets people stay for minimum of three days so I had to pay full price .  I said I want to take a shower and go to Old Town before the day is over.  Finally I paid her almost all I had in Kuna , took a shower and she walked me to the area  to direct me to the bus stop promising me a fan for my room.

I boarded the bus but the driver said I needed another $3 for a new ticket as the other was expired already. I  arrived at the main Gate of Old Town, got a International bus schedule from Tourist info along with a good map to follow.  The ATM gave me more Kuna for the evening and I entered the gate.  Dubrovnik is the Jewel of the Balkans.  It is truly a beautiful city as well as a Port.  I walked the entire circumfrence of the city on the wall that surrounded it.  All 747 steps.  It was grueling for me but breathtaking.  The city inside the wall was coming alive when I finished.  It was around 7 pm and all the Cafe’s were bustling with business.  I walked a lot of the city while taking pictures before settling on Spaghetti Tonis and ordered a half caraffe of Croatian Red and a Pasta I wasn’t familiar with that came with Olives , Fresh Anchovies, and basil topped with grated fresh Parmesan.  Toni came out to say hi.  The waitstaff was tops and the food was excellent.  I treated myself to an Ice Cream, took the bus home, and demanded a fan.  I got it and showered again…got to sleep for I can’t miss the Bus to Kotor…I already booked my most expensive room in a hostel…for two days.  I need a rest.

David made the Bus Station a half hour early along with a nice Canadian couple from Toronto and an American Oriental professional that liked to read a lot.  Our bus arrived a bit late but we loaded and took right off.  We had assigned seats but the Toronto couple couldn’t sit in their front row #1 and 2 because the bus driver didn’t want them to and shooed them in the back loudly saying NO number!  I was in #5, the next row which was OK . I think he didn’t like people looking over his shoulder.  A half hour out and we were all relaxed watching the scenery and the driver turns on the radio to a Croatian Rap station and turns it up loud like he is entertaining us.  I took out my hearing aides and put in my plugs.  I noticed on my first trip to what was Soviet Occupied Eastern Europe that no one was happy, smiled or were friendly.  Especially those in the Hospitality Industry that were supposed to smile. My friend Jan from Prague said that in those days the Communists had spies everywhere.  You never knew if you best friend that you went to school with, your neighbor or co-worker was one.  No one shared anything with anyone for fear of never getting a promotion or going to college and maybe even going to jail for listening to Voice of America late at night in their homes.  Many liked being told what to do and not to do .  They didn’t have to think or work hard…just get a long.  Some still carry on that attitude especially the older ones that lived the longest through that drab senseless life.

The countryside was beautiful as we toured the Adriatic Coast .  It was a winding two lane narrow road so travel was slow but scenic. The beaches were small and mostly pebbles with a few sand beaches then coastal Mountains on the other side. We passed one resort coastal town after another until after about two hours we turned inland and within a half hour came to the Bosnia border where a Croatian Policeman boarded the bus and checked our passports…and then a Bosnian Border Patrol Guard did the same.

We traveled into an area with open fields of vineyards and surrounding Mountains.  Not like Colorado but like Napa Valley. The Rap Music station faded into occasional static and stations coming in and out but the driver just drove on oblivious to any comforts his passengers might desire.  Four hours after our departure, we arrived in Mostar.  A Heritage Site with a bridge built in 1617 that connected one side of Mostar with the other.  A river ran between.

David was greeted by Nina’s Mother.  Nina owned Nina’s Hostel and her mother was close to David’s age and lived with her.  She was born and educated in Mostar and only left during the war in the ’90’s to protect herself.  She lived in Norway for that year.  She said it was cold , rainy, and expensive.

Mostar was being attacked by Croatia on one side, Serbia on the other and Bosnia was trying to protect itself.  I have no idea what it was all about except it had something to do with the very Catholic Croatia and Orthodox Serbia with a lot of Muslims from Bosnia thrown into the mix.  David checked in and took the room across from Nina’s apartment on the second floor.  He freshened up and left to visit the famous Stari Most Bridge.

The main street along the river was one way and a single road with cars parked on the sidewalks so it paid to be cautious while walking.  It was hot and still.  He traversed the bridge after seeing a photo exhibit of before and after the war.  Mostar had been on the front line and the bridge had been seriously shelled along with the town.  There were pock marks in all the buildings from bullets and shelling.  A lot of war memorabilia for the tourists was on sale. There was a decidedly Turkish influence and a few Mosques along with 5 Minarets that he could count.  The Bosnian Coffee was Turkish as well as the local food selection.  He ordered a cheese platter that he ended up taking home for a late night snack the following day.  Next was Bosnian Schnitzel  that was a huge, tender slab of veal rolled with two different local cheeses inside then breaded and deep fried.
It was delicious and of course off the charts with fat…as was all the foods in this region.  He forgo his ice cream treat and returned home.

The next morning David was going to take the local bus to the Bus station and see about a ticket to Dubrovnik. The plan was to take the early bus, spend the day visiting the city then catch the afternoon bus to Montenegro, the next country to visit.  He really couldn’t find a reasonably priced room in the center of Dubrovnik and was told you could see the city in a day so figured he would save some money and get situated in the next place and use it as a base for a few days.  He walked and walked into the main city and started exploring the side streets.  It wasn’t long and he was almost at the Bus Station so he continued on and found the only open ticket counter there.  The ticket sales lady was another grump that never smiled , was rude and abrupt.  He was the only person there. The schedule was to get up at 5 am and catch the 7 am bus or the next was at 10:30am.  That wouldn’t get him to Dubrovnik until 3:30pm .  It would be another 5 hour ride but he figured he could arrive in the main part, lock up his bag, tour the old city in 3 hours and head out the the next bus to Montenegro and sleep.  If he got to Montenegro late…just take a room for three days and sleep the morning away.  He bought the 10:30 departure and walked back into the old bridge area for a late breakfast at the same restaurant.  David visited a Mosque but declined to climb anything especially a Minaret.
It was time to return to the room, get refreshed and see about where he was going to go after he visited Dubrovnik tomorrow.

He got online after returning.   Now the problem is the bus schedule OUT of Dubrovnik. There are few International buses especially going to Montenegro and only one or two a day.  I ended up booking a room in a guesthouse outside of the city in hopes I can check in, return and tour the city while getting a ticket out the next day, get back to the room and still book a place to stay…wherever it is I’m going to.?  I have a schedule telling me departures to Montenegro but not arrivals.  I have no idea if the trip takes 2 hours or 20 and can’t tell by the maps.  I will find out tomorrow.

 He returned to town to try and find an Internet Cafe with a printer as he mistakenly ripped up his Itinerary with all his notes thinking it was something else.  He found a Gamer Cafe packed with children killing everyone in a make believe war with make believe (sounded and looked real to me) guns in war games.  The printer didn’t work. He heard the call to pray on the walk back.  It was 5pm and it echoed down the valley with a melodic resonance that was relaxing.

He stopped for a Bosnian Beer, then stepped into a Convenience Store for some bread, wine, chips to go with his cheese at the room.  He inquired about a small bottle called Lova that looked like Vodka and was made in Mostar.  The lady didn’t drink and said she really didn’t know.  He paid for all and was getting ready to leave when she ran out behind the counter so quick he thought she had the runs or something.  She called him back as he was exiting to give him the bottle as a souvenir of Mostar. That was an example of an entrepreneur with a positive smile and gesture that made up for those stick in the mud employees of the state who should be fired.

Well it’s now time for David to relax, shower and pack for his departure. I’m all relaxed, half naked, on my second bottle of Mini Wine…and their is a knock on the door?  It is after 10pm on a Friday night.  I open the door, with my shirt open, pants unzipped , a Mini Bottle of wine in my hand and it’s Nina’s Mother who came from a party outside in front of the house that Celebrated her Grandson’s first birthday! She had a a LARGE piece of cake for me.  I had to eat it because they would find it the next morning.  I already was struggling to finish all that left over cheese from the day before. Both her and her daughter were dressed formal and the cake was presented on a china plate.  I thanked them and commented about how cute her grandchild was as they quickly ran off seeing me half dressed with a bottle of wine.  Great impression to leave.  Nice gesture though.  Made me feel good yet embarrassed. She must have taken a shine to me?  Can’t say as I blame her.:-)

Port of Brac

I spent the evening going in and out of sleep. Must have been the Dust Storm in Phoenix…now I have to wash my car when I get back.    Phoenix Dust Storm

I tried Poker Stars to relieve my boredom but it wouldn’t come up for whatever reason so went on Facebook and started playing Zinga Texas Holdem Poker when just as I was ready to make a bet, a message came through from my friend Patty Winter on Facebook.  Zinga folded me and I lost a big bet but was so pleased that she was out there in Cyber Space.  I had been so sick and not talked to anyone.  She told me she was following my Blog so she knew a bit of my travels.  I was flattered but being so sick I couldn’t concentrate on making any sense so excused myself and went to bed.

Hvar Island was beckoning this morning but I was out of cold medicine and in a bad way.  I had to leave in one more day for Mostar and hadn’t bought my ticket.  My first goal was to find a Pharmacy.  The one I was at the evening before that closed the door in my face was too far.  I got to the bus stop and was looking at my map to see if one was closer when a car pulled up and parked to pick someone up across the way.  I was looking at the map when the bus stopped before the stop because the car was in the way…others boarded while I sat looking at the map and watched the bus go by as I looked up.  Great…another 20 minute wait.  I was so pissed I walked all the way into town and lucked out when around the corner was a Pharmacy.  She recommended some Expo rant? and Ibuprofen.  I bought and took them both before leaving the store to have breakfast.

David finished his yogurt , juice and coffee then bought his Bus ticket to Mostar.  He spotted a City Bus Tour and boarded it .   It took him to the rich part of the Island with a Sports Park and beautiful beaches.  The other half of the tour was a walking tour of the Castle area so he excused himself and ran down to the Ferry terminal and took the short trip to Brac Island.  Then he fell asleep and woke just in time to exit.  Still not feeling well, he took some photos, walked around the harbor, bought and Ice Cream and got back on the Ferry to return to Split.

9 Foot Tall Croatian Lady

It was late afternoon when he made it back to the room to pack and prepare for his new journey.  He emailed the new Hostel Nina in hopes that when he arrived at the bus station they would honor their pick-up delivery service.  Time to try and put up another slide show at the end of my Blog. Hvala!