Author: David Taylor

2012 Found David sitting at home honing his skills on the Golf Course and at the Poker Table.  No great strides were made but it was a relaxing winter.  Summer arrived the Travel Itch along with it.  A road trip around the Northeast was planned and arrangements were made to stay at Bill’s in Attica.  David was told the car was available and his Mother’s room was always there for him to use as a home base.  Apparently, after buying the round trip ticket to Buffalo where Bill was to pick him up, that was not the case.   Two weeks before departure, he was informed that his trip entailed too much liability and the car offer was withheld.  Not to matter that David gave Bill the car and the house free.  David was informed he was a man and should step up to the plate and pay $1400 for a rent a car.  David cancelled the trip and took his own car along with long time friend Chris.  They departed on the 3rd of July, the Southern route toward his first stop in Ashville, N.C. to visit the Biltmore Estates and stay with a Couch Surfer resident named Jeff.
           

Pizza

Sunday was the last day of the Parada so I arrived early because of the threat of rain.  I managed to take some photos and return without rain.

Hank and David

Rice and Curry

Last night Hank joined us for Curried Lamb and Rice. He was Theo’s lover and friend.  Theo was one of the Doctors who administered euthanasia to David Lavington, my artist friend that was dying from Aides. Theo also would deliver scripts to Jeannette’s mailbox for me when I got sick. I knew them through Jeannette and had been to their home on occasion.  Theo’s passed away last year.  We had a nice visit and shared our love of Thailand.

The following day, I  had lunch at Espirt in Downtown Amsterdam. I ran in to the restaurant to escape a Jarakartan man trying to put the make on me.  He followed me as I got off the bus and kept saying how good looking a man I am while givng me his phone number.  As I was asking for the check after being there an hour sipping my Cafe and reading…I look up and there he was waving to me from outside the window.  Back Door?  No! He was gone when I left , I was tired and returned for a nap.

That evening I took some photos down by the river of boaters before returning to dinner and bed. We had Boar Casserole with Sauerkraut.

I’m tired of just sitting around this week when I’ve done what I want. I now want to be home. If I was home I could find lots to do but here I can’t just open the newspaper and see what is going on.   I decided to start taking day trips to Harlem, Utrech, and someplace I’ve never been.  Also I’m exploring Amsterdam.  There are some parts in the North of Amsterdam that you have to take a ferry to.  Fishing villages you can have lunch and return the same day. Jeannette called Ronald who used to work outside of Amsterdam and commute by boat everyday.  He suggested I take an afternoon and have lunch by the water.  They talked…or Jeannette did for over an hour non stop.  I could never do that on the phone.

So…what’s it all about David?  Peter and  Jeanette’s genuine love, loyalty, acceptance, friendship, sharing,…Orhan and  his artistic bent with a willingness to share.  You ride with this man on his motorcycle through the streets of Istanbul.   Mike, your poker playing friend and his Muslim family wedding with you sitting at one of the honored tables and 500 guests in attendance.  The Romanian Interpol Policeman Dumitru’s offer and resulting tour of Timisoara.   Albania in a stationwagon across 30 miles of dirt road with Mike and his Son exploring Shkoder on a hot Sunday afternoon.  The Aussie in Skopje riding his newly purchased used motorbike across the Balkans from Lebanon.    The Pharmacist in Podgorica from Ohrid Macedonia.  Varna the Bulgarian seaside village on the Black Sea. The first impression of Belgrade on arrival then the second on departure. Bucharest’s old city.  Mostar, Bosnia being picked up by the mother of the Hostel’s owner then her sharing her grandson’s birthday cake with you. The shopkeeper that gave me a bottle of  Bosnia’s national drink.  Pristina’s Grand Hotel and the complimentary lemonade and the Bates’ Hotel Hostel on the hill. Split’s seaside and the strange hostel… Walking the wall surrounding Dubrovnik’s old city and the bitch who owned the Hostel. Living in the old city of Kotor and the wonderful Hostel lady. Zagreb and Joline from Australia at our wonderful Hostel. Sophia’s Free Tour and the guide. Plodiv’s tour up steep cobblestone streets. The cold that infected me within the first week and only ended the 7th week and tons of medicine later. I managed three books and a few magazines. The Montmarte’s Hostel treating me like a King.  Istanbul they didn’t charge me to do my laundry…Seemed like it was a year of travel.

Last Meal

Dessert @ Jeannette’s

Airport Lounge

The last few days were mostly overcast and rain with little sun. I still walked around this lovely city and never tire of it’s surprises and beauty. My last night Jeannette made another of her great meals. A delicious Stir Fry Chinese dish. The Amsterdam Schipol International Airport is one of the best. I made my flight and am back home but my chocolate is in Jeannette’s refrigerator!  Good to be back and welcomed by both Marjorie and Bruce…I’m so spoiled.

      The taxi delivered David to the Belgrade airport and after checking his one bag he boarded the plane and was in Amsterdam after sleeping the whole trip.

AMSTERDAM SOUTH STATION

David could only exchange Croatian money into a small amount of Euros at the airport. No one accepted, Serbian, Bulgarian, Romanian or any other currencies from the Balkans. He took the train into Amsterdam but choose South Station instead of Rai which was close to Jeannette’s.  South Station was big and he had never been there.  He noted on the map that a bus that comes to South Station also goes to Jeannette’s so he decided to find the stop and wait for the bus. This complex is immense and David got lost, went around in a circle and was back at the station asking directions.  It is upstairs the women pointed.  The road goes over the station along with the train and the trams.  David climbed up some stairs and found the bus waiting for him.  I stopped by the local Coffee shop on my way back and picked up some hash.
         I arrived and  unpacked in his familiar room then joined his dear friends for Surinamese take away at their dining room table.  We reminisced a bit before retiring.

Country Retreat

Small Kitchen and Living area

Peter working in Garden with Cigar and Hat

Shrimp Coctails

The following day david went for a walk by the Amstel River but forgot his camera.  He picked up some wine to share with the late afternoon BBQ at Peter and Jeannette’s new summer place on the water just outside the city.  It was small and rustic but Peter already had a beautiful garden and Jeannette was happy to cook and fuss with the new home.  It had one bedroom with another room that was like a kitchen and living area with eating on the terrace in between.  We had Tuna and Lamb Chops with potato salad and  Salmon salad, Shrimp cocktails, and fresh strawberries for dessert. We returned to Amsterdam, tired and content.

I slept late spent most of the day inside.  I stopped over to the Surinamese Restaurant to have coffee and use their internet connection.  Then I did the same at the Daphne Renault Cafe by the river. It was a quiet day.  Jeannette had a Turkish couple over for marriage counseling.  Peter went fishing and David took a walk.
 Jeannette will perform the civil ceremony for the Turkish couple’s wedding in September.  She has married quite a few people and enjoys it. She has married women couples, male couples, her neighbors of 20 years, different races, Hindu, Muslims, mixed marriages, everything.  It is her hobby in retirement. Peter and her visit her brother and he comes to the Netherlands also.  A few years ago he married again.  Now in his late 60’s with his wife around her early 40’s they conceived a baby boy whom is now 3 years old.  The among the wedding guest was Vaclav Havel the first President of the Czech Republic and leader of the Velvet Revolution also an avid Chess Player.  As a member of the World Chess Masters, Jeannette’s brother also invited his good friend Gary Kasparov and entertained the guests with a blindfolded Chess Match.  Champagne was thee drink served to all and for a honeymoon they enjoyed a week or so in the Maldives. Lou Reed may be the entertainment at theirs son’s birthday party this year.

 David found a box of candy in his bed when he retired.

Spanish Seafood Stew

Museumplein-Van Gogh

Vondel Park

Beatrix Park

Sunshine was forecast for the next three days.  David planned a walk to Vondel Park then return to Martin Luther King Park for the Parada Festival.  He walked and walked.  It was a beautiful day and just before reaching Vondel Park he stopped at Museumplein and had lunch at Small Talk to get replenished. The park was filling up.  He walked around a bit then decided to head back for the second half of the day at the Parada.  He took a “short cut” through Beatrix Park and got lost.  When he came out he was at the Rai Station not far from Peter and Jeannette’s but it was almost 4 pm which didn’t leave the time needed for the Parada.  He took a tram to Rembrantsplein for some coffee, cake and hash at Smokey’s Coffee Shop. After it was a Pint of Guinness at Mulligan’s and a visit with Miriam the owner.  It was quiet so he returned to the neighborhood and had a glass of wine at Diva’s before showing up in time for delicious leftovers from a Spanish Seafood Stew the night before.

Today David is back at the Surinamese Restaurant to use the internet again.  He can’t use Peter’s cable network.  This time he tried a spicy but nice BBQ Chicken sandwich for lunch.  He goes to Parada this afternoon and tonight we all go to the Windmill Restaurant favorite of Peter and Jeannette’s. Well David made the Parada but just before entering he realized he left his memory card for the camera in the computer so rather than pay to enter with no camera he decided to go Sunday…the last day.  He returned and that evening Peter drove everyone to the Windmill Restaurant.  A very upscale “Fusion” restaurant with very eclectic food. We had Champagne and Wine with a wonderful meal.

Dinner at the Windmill

Sunday Jeannette prepared a Brunch of Imported Meats and Cheeses with a Mushroom and Tomato Omelet . Champagne and fresh Bread accompanied the meal.  David left after for the Parada and finally got in to take a few pictures and walk around.  He didn’t stay as all the shows are in Dutch. Would have been fun to share with someone.

I thought my glasses were dirty.

BELGRADE…finally

Waking at 4:30 am is not how I usually start my day.  There appeared to be a full moon out.  Romania being the birthplace of Count Dracula, “Devil” in Romanian, could be an ominous sign?  Taxi was waiting and I noted a few people getting out of taxis at 5am that were still having a party.  As we drove along I counted three police check points for drunk driving.  No vehicle except Taxis were let through and there were cars being impounded and people being arrested at every check point.  This is 5 am! Yes it was a Friday but in Phoenix I think the check points would be down at 5 am…maybe because here I don’t think there is a closing time.  People can openly drink on the streets also.  We reached the train station and  it wasn’t long after when the train arrived.  I had an assigned seat in an 8 seat compartment.  So did 8 members of the Partridge family.

 We managed with Mom and Dad opposite with a daughter and both boys, the oldest and youngest of the lot. I sat with the other 3 daughters.  The whole family were handsome, relaxed, conversed and laughed a lot.  They shared food with each other and me. They were respectful of each other and me. It was truly a pleasant experience.  They were like my neighbors back in the fifties that I used to play with and stay over at their house. You liked them so much you felt for them. You knew someday they would suffer a hardship, the father would pass away, the mother would get sick or some accident would cripple one of the children.  You worried for them because they were such nice people you felt for them. They got off at a village just after we crossed the border and I was feeling lonely in the compartment by myself.

Sharing Popcorn with a new Friend

The train entered Belgrade along the Danube.  The station was close to the center but I wasn’t familiar with this area so walked to my Hostel with a stop at McDonald’s McCafe for a Latte and Breakfast.  This McDonald’s not only has the Free Wi-Fi access but four state of the art computers to use free of charge, a wide screen TV , a separate downstairs dining room, the outdoor terrace , as well as a comfortable lounge are like Starbucks. All Air Conditioned.

Dusan is last on the right with his girlfriend.

I was welcomed at the Hostel Montmarte by a gentlemen who inquired if I was David Taylor. That was nice since I was 3 hours early for check in.  His name is Dusan.  He speaks English, French and Italian and worked for a French tour company in Vietnam for 6 months taking people on river tours to villages and tours of Saigon. He gave me a brief tour then after showing me a lovely room, requested I join him for a welcome gift?  Nice touch.  The gift was a welcome national drink Rakia that was chilled in the freezer.  He poured us each a shot and offered a toast for a pleasant stay.  Then he introduced me to his knockout sister, Jelena, after I said I was from Phoenix.  She was a fan of the Suns, and an international women’s basketball gold medal winner. Basketball star Jelena Milekic Serbia Women’s team played the US.  Didn’t get all the details but she looked very athletic as well as attractive. The Hostel is done in a lot of Red .  The entrance door is Red, red trip around the halls.  Red Heart bath mat and red hearts on white for the shower curtain.  Rainbow colored bed cover, Pink shear curtains .  Wide screen wall mounted Cable TV. Posters of Paris with Scenes of the Montmarte area.  Nice wooden antique chairs with red velvet cushions…very feminine or gay? Centrally located and air conditioned. It is very much like the 3 star hotel I just left but better I think.  It is about $5 more than the one in Timisoara at $45 a night.  I wanted to be comfortable my last days in the Balkans. I know this neighborhood and might go to the Bohemian section again and maybe the Casino down by the Danube…an area I missed last time.

View from McDonald’s

The night desk clerk greeted me “Good Morning Sir” and presented me with my clean laundry.  Never mind that it was just thrown in a bag when it came out of the dryer in the night.  It was clean and wrinkled. Sunday morning in Belgrade is quiet and not much was open.  I wanted something more than the cereal I had for breakfast so went to McDonald’s but they were closed!  I forgot to reset my clock to Serbian time zone.  I found a Cafe open but like most, they only serve beverages.  You can’t even get a bag of chips with your beer or Croissant with your coffee.  I returned to McDonald’s after my coffee and had an Egg McMuffin. Dusan was at the desk when I returned to the Hostel and explained how to get to the Casino and where the good restaurants in the neighborhood were located.

Background Music was Everly Bros and Sam Cook

I meandered around the main Rodeo Drive to the Park on the end.  Visit an Art Plaza in the park but decided to forgo the Bohemian Section and restaurants until tomorrow.  I found an Art museum..The Zepter and it was nice.  The building was art deco style and the museum was laid out on three floors.  I decided to have lunch on the strip and ordered the Chef’s Surprise Pizza…It was a Surprise!  It was a Pie. about 5 inch tall and a good 12″ around.  I ate half and took the rest back for dinner and breakfast.

Waiting under the Clock

The Montmarte is the perfect location and as a result, I believe will be very successful and expand into more along the same lines. I step out the door and there is Republic Square…a central meeting point like the clock at Grand Central Station in NYC.  People meet under the clock or the Monument in Republic Square.  You can sit there and watch the drama unfold. Will they show or no.  People on the cell …Where are you. During the short time I was there , one man was stood up.  Four women met women and left arm and arm. One woman met a man.  Very few men wait for anyone.  It is 90% women waiting.  In the US, it’s the men that are waiting.  Women are afraid they will be mistaken for prostitutes sitting around alone. .Another thing is I have only seen butter served once, I can not get any newspaper or magazine in English in the capital of Serbia, more than one napkin is seldom , sometimes more than 3 sheets of toilet paper is hard to get, toilet paper has been mostly one brand no matter where, service is usually slow if at all, and I asked for lots of ice today and got two ice cubes , never to see the waiter in almost an hour. I guess they think that we think we are special because were Americans or something.  They treat all customers like that?

It will be nice to be back in Amsterdam tomorrow for lunch.  Milko, a friend in Germany invited me to his country home about 4 hours out of Amsterdam.  I think a day or two in the country would be nice.

My last night in Belgrade I was still eating my Chef’s Surprise Pizza leftover in the Hostel refrigerator.  I wanted to eat out at the restaurants Dasan had recommended and thought maybe I would have an appetizer.  I walked the exclusive part of the Old City with chic cafes and restaurants on every corner.  Douma, Balzac, Dorian Gray, The Witch Bar, The Nude, The Little Box, and ended up at Momma’s Biscuit House for a Gin and Tonic.  The Bulgarian Restaurant was really unique but I wasn’t hungry and no one was there this early. I left my camera at the Hostel.  I wasn’t expecting this. I felt like I was walking NYC Village.  Wabi Sabi a Concept in Living store grabbed my attention.  Maybe if I was rich?  Lots of BMW’s Jaguars,Rovers, Mercedes, this was an upscale area…a lot of Gypsy begger children…they know where the money is. I came back through the Bohemian Section , had the last of my Pizza and retired early. The Hostel had called the taxi for 5:30 and woke me at 5am.  I made the hour ride to the airport in about 17 minutes at just under 90mph and was checked in immediatly.  Nothing to eat except day old rich pastrys  and premade sandwiches. They call Thailand the land of Smiles…I call the Balkans the land of Grimaces.  Turkey was the only place where I thought the general populace was friendly and smiling…not for long  if the president keeps up his “reforms”. Hello Amsterdam!

The day was cold and damp as I hauled my suitcase to the bus ticket kiosk to buy a ticket to the subway station and connect to the Gard Nord Train station . The lady said I couldn’t buy only one ticket and had to buy a card good for two trips.  I was about to pay the extra when she then explained they only sell two cards at a time.  I left and boarded the bus without a ticket.  The bus took a turn right after the first stop so I exited and had to walk to the last stop.  Karma!  I connected with the subway and arrived at the Gard Nord 3 hours ahead of departure.  KFC had free Wi-Fi so I had Tasty Chicken for breakfast.  McDonald’s, Starbucks, and KFC can usually be counted on for clean public toilets,Air-Conditioned dining areas, and WI-Fi connections no matter where you are in the world.  It sure has been a blessing  for me on many occasions.

Bucharest Subway

Dumitru

The Bucharest train station was pretty up to date compared to a few of the others in the region.  I boarded the train , took my assgned seat and managed a nap along with the rest of the passengers.

Now that I’m almost to my destination, I discover the train I’ve been on for over 5 hours has a plug in for computers at every seat.  I am now charging my batteries and  catching up with my blog   The day started out overcast and rainy.  It has been that way until just now when the sun broke through the clouds.  The train turned out to be first class with comfortable seats and nice facilites including a snack bar and lounge.  People were coming through at all the stops trying to sell magazines to read or elderly women selling tissue packets.  One man dropped some gadgets on all the tables with wallets, lighters, screwdriver sets, eyeglass cases, etc then came around and collected them along with any money if he got lucky and sold any of his products.  A crippled crawled down the Isle on the floor begging money. The scenery was flat farm land for miles with mostly corn and sunflowers.  Lots of farms , horse drawn carts, and small villages.  Now we are getting into the mountains your still see a lot of farms with haystacks, pigs running around in the yard, sheep herders with their dogs, horses, and cattle.  On one side a huge valley stretches out with lakes and fields.

I just discovered  something else.  This train doesn’t arrive at my destination until 9:30 pm at night.  When I looked at the map, I assumed it was no more than a 4 houir trip.  I talked to the snack bar concessioneur and he said the express train is 7 hours and this one that stops in villages along the way is 9 hours. I decided I needed  a sandwich and some wine at the snack bar where I met Sebastion and his lady friend who are attending school and live in Timisoara.  He and I were taking photos of the countryside which now is like the Rhine River valley in Germany without the castles.  The whole counryside was changing every 10-20 minutes.  Sebastion was a Couch Surfer and had traveled to Mombai India…the only place he ever felt fear, and  Paris at New Years eve.  I gave him my last personal card and invited him to Arizona.  He has a sister that lives in Seattle and hopes to visit San Fransico .  Well I only hope the hotel doesn’t rent my room when I don’t show up at 4 pm like I told them.  I have had that happen before  and they even charged my credit card for a no show but rented my room so I had to find another place.   The man that is sitting with me said he was from there so I will ask his assistance. The countryside is just Magical and Enchanting.  It is sunset and there is a beautiful Rainbow outside my window mixed with Golden Hues of the sun and the wheat fields. Mountains surrounding and rivers running through quaint villages.  Lots of woods and greenery.  Truely a beautiful part of Romania that should be seen by car…from village to village.  The man from Timisoara said it is a very nice city.   I want to stay another day there now that I am almost in Belgrade.

The man traveling next to me introduced himself and told me he had been working for Blackwater Security in Iraq since 2005 but because of a close call with a bomb and his wife’s insistence he quit and returned home. I bought him a beer. His name was Dumitru.

The train arrived. Dumitru  motioned me to follow him.  He took me to a taxi and gave the man directions.  He bid me goodbye and said he would be around to my hotel tomorrow at 11am with his car to show me a little of his home town.  OK.  The taxi cost me $3 and I checked in with no problem then proceeded to the local restaurant ,Camelot ,for some Romanian food.  I had some Goulash , met some friendly people and retired back at the hotel.

David in Timisoara

Dumitru showed up after breakfast in a little Honda SUV for a quick tour of Timisoara.  He parked downtown and we went right to a travel agent and bought my ticket to Belgrade.  The only train leaving was at 5 am …the only train to Belgrade from Romania. I forgot my passport and for the first time on the whole trip I was never asked for ID.  Dumitru handled everything and told me not to worry.  The ticket was just a ticket for a seat on the train to Belgrade…no name or anything on it. Later I found out he works now for the Romanian Interpol.  I met his wife who works for the Timisoara Justice Department in the courthouse. He showed me his ID .  He was like a Romanian Kojak.

We did  a walking tour of the beautiful downtown area.  We stopped and entered an Orthodox church at the end of Revolution Square.  He took me to another open Square not far from there with nice restaurants where they hold concert and different events. I offered to treat him to lunch so we drove out to the suburbs to a popular Romanian restaurant where I ate a mixed grill meat dish with Polenta and he had some pork and Beans type of dish. I learned the Romanian Toast “Naro’k”.. He offered to take me to the Mall but I returned to the Hotel and we parted. He and his wife are headed for the Carpathian Mountains for a weeks vacation tomorrow.

Dumitru my Tour Guide

Siesta and I’m off to visit my neighborhood.  The Euro Hotel is located in the center of the University district. I am on a college campus.  Lots of students out at Happy Hour, in the park playing Basketball, and just strolling along enjoying the evening. I stopped at the Beer and Steak Pub for a beer and Pizza.  Two students next to me had a Rack of Beer.  It is a wooden holder for 8 Pints in one Row and is placed at the table between them.  They were on their second Rack of Beer!  I finished and came home to relax.  It had been a very good day.

The next morning, I finished breakfast then walked into town. One park after another until I reached the Square.  I browsed the shops, visited a museum, when to a mall and compared prices, then stopped for a late lunch at Loyds then returned home. Bed early with a 4:30 am wake up call.

Leaving Varna the Taxi dropped me at the bus station.  I was headed for Ruse on the border of Bulgaria and Romania with a small Mini Van waited to transport me to Bucharest, Romania.  The bus was to pick me up at Gate 8.  I saw no sign to indicate Ruse until I figured out Pyce is Ruse in Cyrilic.  Bapha is Varna in Cyrilic.  You can see how traveling in the Balkans can be difficult at times.  The bus was full and the seats were for midgets.  I was straddling the seat in front of me when another gentleman sat in the seat next to me.  He had to sit crossways with his legs out in the isle because I couldn’t move. Three hours later we arrived in Ruse.  I had to be pried out of my seat but managed.  I saw the office of the bus company that Stanmier called in Ruse and made my reservation.  Yes David we were waiting for you, 20 Lev ($12) and I was following the driver to a little mini sports vechicle with two rows of seats for 3 in the back and me and the driver in front.  There were 6 of us and luggage!  He managed to get us all in but I felt back for the guy and the lady in the far back seat strattling the luggage.

There was a man from Bucharest that studied school in Amsterdam, an Indian couple that lived in Amsterdam, and the couple in the back were so uncomfortable they said nothing the whole trip.  It was hard to say anything because the guy from Bucharest would not shut up the entire trip.  I noticed the driver kept turning up the radio as we went alone, hoping to drown him out or shut him up but no luck.  He talked about cruelty to caged chickens, the unfair left over Communist politicos, his girlfriend in Japan, and so forth.

We turned our passports over at the border check point and the border guard returned everyones, except mine.  He then told the driver to pull over.  We waited about 20 minutes in the heat until finally they returned my passport and  about one hour later, we arrived at a parking lot in Bucharest.  I went over and naievely asked the taxi if would take me to my destination.  Never asking how much!  I first went to an Exchange Office and turned in my winnings of Bulgarian money for Romanian Livs…I didn’t bother to see  how many of these equalled a dollar so had no idea what the currency exchange was.  We arrived and the meter said 9 so I gave him 10 and he said no 90!  So I gave him 90 and checked into the hotel.  That’s when I discovered I paid him around $30 for a $9 trip.  The manager told me a nice young couple arrived at the airport and took a taxi.  He offers pick up for 20 Euro and would have picked me up at the bus station for 7 Euro.  The taxi charged them 170 Euro!   I have a nice room with a fan but the internet can only be accessed in the lobby.

St George

Typical Outdoor Cafe in Old Town

I showered and took the Tram to Central Bucharest, where I had just came from…for 1.3 Liv or .50 cents.   The last stop is St George Square where the church is and the center of Bucharest.  I wandered around until I found the “Old Town” where a few blocks of the historic area was being restored and eclectic bistros and clubs were moving in.  The streets were all dug up and it was dusty but there were lots of people, music and good food and drink.  I tried some Pork Stroganoff with rice that sound and tasted good but was mostly all fat.

I returned to the Hostel, got on the internet and booked a room for the two remaining days in Timisoara, North of Bucharest, before I left for Belgrade. I choose take the train.  All trains to Belgrade…all one of them go through Timisoara.  It is a night train and I’m not sure I want to do that.  Despite the last cramped bus ride I am hoping I can find a first class company that will provide a day trip to Belgrade so I might see more of Romania and Serbia. I have to find out what the bus schedule to Timisoara tonight and maybe even get my ticket.  I was told by the Hostel owner that the bus station…one of four , is within walking distance from here and has frequent buses going to my destination.

Ladies and Gentlemen…Let the Show Begin

Romanian Athenium

When does the show start?

WWI Arc de Triumph

2nd Largest Bldg in World..Parliament…1st is Pentagon

Mint Lemonade

The Van Gogh restaurant in Old Town offered a nice breakfast so I treated myself the next day.  I found Tourist Information and got myself a real map and some directions.  I did a brief walking tour before boarding a Get On/Off bus with another man I met at the bus stop from Toronto.  Claude Ryan was a traveler also.  He just arrived yesterday from a 10 day trip through Russia and loved it.  He is a couchsurfer and stayed with CouchSurfers as much as possible. We both took some pictures but really just took the tour to get a feel of the city.  I got back off at Old Town and stopped for some Mint Lemonade and to cool off.

I hopped the Tram back to the Hostel.  I noticed that everytime the Tram went by a church about 10 people would all put their head down and bless themselves.  I remember in our parish back in Attica we were supposed to bless ourselves everytime you went past the alter of God…in  otherwords each time you passed the church.  That didn’t last very long yet these people take this seriously.  They do the sign of the cross at least three times and close their eyes.  We pass about 5 churchs on the way and sometimes you think they are celebrating Mass on the Tram!

I got on and it was crowded but there was one seat available.  There was a young lady standing next to me surrounded by four other people.  Normally on a full Tram, there is a scramble for an empty seat.  I was waiting for the lady to take it when I realized they were all waiting for me as I was the eldest.  I took it. There was a young man sitting in the seat in front of me and an elderly lady approached him and requested that he give his seat to her.  Now it wasn’t a matter of being polite, it now became her RIGHT to that seat.  He stood up to give it to her while she was admonishing him another man next to her took her seat and wouldn’t budge.  She went across the aisle and requested and recieved a seat.

I was hot and sweating after riding in the Tram and then walking back to the hostel about 15 minutes away.  A nice cool shower but now I have to go back out there and get a bus ticket for tomorrow. I think I’ll take a nap.

Bus to Station

Dinner at Van Gogh

The road to the Bus station was a lot longer than the Hostel Manager made it sound.  It was hot and I was again covered with sweat when I reached what was a huge bus repair terminal.  I walked around the other side where some local buses were picking up passengers and inquired with one of the drivers about getting a bus to Timisousa.  He said all these buses were local Bucharest buses and I had to take #85 to Gar Nord, the train station to get to Timisoursa.  I did and got my ticket.  Then I tried to return but construction confused me and I couldn’t find a pick up point to return.  I wanted to go to Old Town and have dinner so finally decided to take the Subway out of the Gar Nord. I had to get off at one point and transfer to another Subway but it worked fine and I made it for dinner at the Van Gogh. I returned on the Tram and planned my departure tomorrow.  I would walk to the Tram then get off at the connecting subway stop that would take me to the Gar Nord for the 12:45pm train to Timisoursa.  It was frustrating but satisfying day.

I woke this morning thinking I should check my air ticket but couldn’t find it. Searched every bit of clothing, bags, jacket , computer case.  I had the ticket along with my new frequent flyer membership to KLM and my boarding pass when I flew in so I could claim my frequent flyer miles.  I also had Euros for when I arrived back in Amsterdam.  All were gone.  Allah’s will.

I went right to an Internet cafe and printed out another copy of the ticket that was still in the clouds of cyber space.  Something to be said for that.

Enjoying Sunday Morning Coffee

I left the internet Cafe and stopped into another small Orthodox Church where their seem to be something going on. They were doing baptisms of babies and young children.  There seemed to be about 6 of them and all the family members were there to witness the event.  People had food and were sitting outside the church eating.  I told the Priest I got baptized yesterday at the other Orthodox church.

Then I took the bus to the bus station and bought a ticket to Ruse on the Bulgarian border with Romania and the first leg of my trip on Monday.  I tried to buy the connecting ticket to Bucharest but no one handles them.  I had to get that in Ruse and my connection was only an opening of 30 minutes.  It was an 8 passenger mini bus so I need to try and call Ruse to reserve a space and hope the bus is on time.  If I can’t, I may end up having to pay for a Taxi or I heard there was a Romanian bus service that left at 4:30?

The Litovia Hostel in Bucharest will be where I stay for two days. I want to see the old town and the Theater. I understand they have some fantastic Museums too but it seems to be expensive to stay in the city and I’m starting to watch my money now that I lost a considerable amount in the Market last week.  I did manage to close a lot of my positions in options since the prices dropped.  I sold them for good money and bought them back to close the positions as considerably less money so I did well with that.  If the market goes back up by the end of the year, then I can sell the stocks and stick with Gold , Coca Cola, and McDonald’s  That is IF it goes back up…otherwise I’ll be stuck with cheap stocks that I would have to take a big loss  to sell.

I managed to see the Archaeological Museum this morning and will head for the beach this afternoon and try some seafood. The beach is only two blocks from my Hotel and this was the first time I had been down there. They have a beautiful large park that overlooks and borders the beach.  I walked along that with everyone in Varna.  There was a large amusement park where families were playing with their children, a Bulgarian Idol concert going on, Crafts stalls , food kiosks , restaurants , but mostly this beautiful park with Boulevards and foot paths and walkways. It reminded me of Balboa Park in San Diego.  I am returning to spend my last day there.

A unique restaurant called Graffiti caught my attention while returning to town.  I had a Manhattan and ordered Saute Breast of Chicken with Fire Roasted Vegetables and Artichokes.  A small bottle of Bulgarian White Makrud to accompany it. It was great.  The Graffiti also has a gallery featuring a Dali exhibit I will return to tomorrow.  Varna is in competition for Europe’s most Cultural City.  The results won’t be until 2019.

When I returned the Cosmopolitan Venus contest was over.  They had events like races with gorgeous ladies in hot outfits running in those exaggerated high heels they all wear.  I was surprised someone didn’t break an ankle.  I didn’t stick around for the other competitive events. One thing to be enjoyed while traveling these cities and towns is the amazing amount of space that is given over to pedestrian walkways…No cars or restricted use such as Taxis only, Police, Emergency vehicles or Mass transport.  It is so quiet and people just stroll along holding hands, playing chess in the park, sharing coffee on the terrace. It creates such a lovely atmosphere.

All over Bulgaria you find street kids wanting to wash your windshield in 5pm traffic.  Beggars including pensioners trying to supplement their pension by selling packets of tissue or gum at a little more than what you would pay in the local store. Gypsies that can be pick pockets and very aggressive. Also Street singers or entertainers trying to make a living. A few things to note about Bulgarians and I think Balkans as well as Eastern Europeans:  “A-No” means yes and they will shake there heads for yes and nod up and down when they mean no!  Try shaking your head back and forth and saying Yes.  You take flowers when invited to someones home but only an ODD number of stems..an EVEN number is taken to a funeral. That was my day.

It is now Sunday, my last day in Varna.  Stanameir, my front desk clerk who spent some time in the US is on this morning.  I ask if he could call the Ruse Romanian Bus Company and make a reservation on the 2pm 8 passenger Mini Van to Bucharest.  If I can’t make that, I could end up hitchhiking or hiring a Taxi to take me from the border to Bucharest.  He tried both numbers I gave him off the internet and both were no longer in service.  I just now discovered my Hotel has been offering free breakfast at the restaurant next door so went over to eat and contemplate my situation.  When I returned, Stanameir had called information, got the bus company number and made my reservation.  He did mention the bus leaves at 1:30, the same time mine arrives but they will wait for me.  I tipped him for his assistance which was invaluable considering the circumstance.  I walked down to the beach and stopped on the way to buy a louder alarm clock, finally!

It was a beautiful day.  A nice outdoor Italian restaurant beckoned me over for a Campari and Fresh Orange Juice with Salmon Bruchetta. The White Castle, the book by Turkish author Orhan Pamuk, was starting to lose my interest.  The Dali Exhibition at the Graffiti Gallery was his Illustrations of Dante’s Divine Comedy done in Watercolors and pen.  It was different than other Dali Exhibits I had seen.  They had a side Gallery with some Chagall, Picasso, Miro, and a couple others I didn’t recognize. It was small but nice. A Costa Coffee then back to freshen up then off to the Casino for Happy Hour.  I might return to the Italian Restaurant and have a Pizza.  The Chef-Owner apprenticed in Italy for 9 years and became a Master Pizza maker. That got my attention as I never knew there was that much to Pizza.  Tonight will be early for me with a big travel day tomorrow.  I will pack and maybe watch some more PBS.  Last night it was Frontline “The Pot Republic”,  “Dr HotSpot”, and “The Atomic Artists”.  Tonight I might watch “Tales of Love and Sex in Iran”. That should put me to sleep.

Well I arrived at the Black Jack table with only one “High Roller” to my left.  He got pissed at me on the first round when I bet two spots at $10 each and took a hit on the last spot .  If I had not taken the hit, the dealer would have busted.  I did have a 14 so it was a stupid move but he was pissing me off for commenting about it.  It went on like that except I was winning and he was losing.  Then a third player took first position with his “Bling ” on his arm and a gold ring on all ten of his fingers, Rolex on his wrist and two gold bracelets on both wrists with a gold necklace to boot.  The first guy got pissed because he lost and left.  The Macho rich guy was getting pissed because I kept winning.  I won $100 and left the table after three free beers and cashed out for $200 then took $100 and put it on Black Roulette and won another $100///then cashed in $200 win and left.  I went to the Pizza on the Black Sea and regretted not having brought my camera;

You get the point

Varna in Cyrlilic

Dessert

Friend, Ivo and Me sharing the bounty.

I got Ivo, the waiter I had that afternoon and ordered a Pizza and a bottle of Bulgarian Wine.  Both were excellent as was the service.  I tipped him well and returned for my camera.  It was Sunday evening and everyone was out to strut their stuff.

I came out of the hotel and met some local others and decided this is where I wanted to be.  They offered me some sardines and wine.  I accepted and chipped in for more.  Ivo left  , returned with more and offered me some change.  I told him to keep it and we all toasted Varna, Life, and each other before I returned to the Hotel.  Stanameir greeted me and I showed him the  Photo…his response was…you sure know how to entertain yourself David.  I slept on that.

There was a lot going on last night but I choose to remain in the hotel and get some rest.  I could hear the call to pray signalling “Time to Eat” Like a dinner bell. There was music coming from the park and even after I retired, I could hear drums beating.  Yasar said something about the drums in the evening but I didn’t quite understand. I watched the Ken Burns documentary about Seabiscuit.  Amazing story of both the horse, his jockey, his trainer, and his career.

I woke early after a restless sleep.  I worry about missing my bus or catching my plane and I can’t sleep well.  I will get the “Screaming Meanie” Alarm when I return home.  I never worried about waking when I set that alarm.  The problem is it wakes the whole hotel. The hotel did give me a wake up call on the phone but I was already showered and ready to go.

  I got the Tram to my transfer point but had no idea where to pick up the Underground Metro until I asked a young man, Martuck, who was born in Istanbul and was returning home from visiting his parents.  He was going to the same place.  He had lived in the States and actually lived in Mesa , Arizona for a short time and was fascinated  by retirees that travel with there recreational vechicles. We had a nice talk. He was a recovering drug addict and doing well. My travel was to the “Enchanted Land that Few Return”is how he explained it.  It was a nice ride on the Subway system.  My first and last for now. We bid goodbye and after checking with information, I found my transit company and bus.

Even the Bus Station has a Mosque..only one Minaret though!

My Luxury Mercedes Coach

 I paid $60 for this trip and from what I could figure was $30 more than the regular bus.  It was worth it.  Nice A/C , bathroom , even a Movie screen like on the air planes, with multiple movie selections, games, TV Channels, and you could even plug in your own flash drive and watch movies, all  in the back of the seat in front of you.The arrival time was 6pm in the evening and I got up at 6am so will sleep a lot of the way.

We went through Customs and had my passport checked three different times and we all had to exit the bus while they boarded the bus and searched out handbags.  We stopped in Burgas, another Bulgarian resort city and  large shipping port on the Black Sea.  A few people got off and we continued the trip. I watched a movie “5 Minutes in Heaven ” with Liam Nieson. It was an IRA BBC movie all in Turkish with no subtitiles.

We have an attendant on this First Class bus that looks like Pee Wee Herman with a white shirt and bow tie.  He serves us cold water, NesCafe coffee, occasional snack then came around with this bottle that I though was a fruit drink.  I reached for it but he pulled back and motioned for me to put my hands out.  Then he sprinkled me and my bags with perfumed water to refresh myself.  Thanks.

We arrived in Varna, I got a Taxi for $6 to an ATM to get some Levs then to the hotel where they had no record of my reservation or booking with Hostel World network.  I paid in cash for two days and checked in but couldn’t get on the internet.

Sushi Supreme

I left to get some food at Happy Bar.  They had one in Plovdiv that I loved so wanted to try this out. It was the same great food, drink and prices.  I returned to the hotel impressed with Varna and the downtown area so close to the Black Sea beach that I decided to book 2 more days.  There was a new guy at the desk and he booked me for the additional days, then when I complained about my internet connection, he asked what operating system I had on the computer.  I said XP and he replied he had XP and was now having the same problems. XP came out a few years ago and was a great system but Microsoft replaced it with Vista then Seven.  Over the years providers went with the newer Operating Systems and now those of us with XP have a hard time connecting to there networks.  I ran up , got my computer and let him configure it. He had me on line in 5 minutes after I had spent an hour messing with it to no avail.  His name was Samerlier and he had ran a moving business in Baltimore and lived in Henderson Nevada for a while.  He was in his early 30’s spoke great English and got me on the internet! He also plays Texas Holdem.

I felt lucky after that and decided to visit the Casino and try my luck. When I arrived there was a Chinese man with his Hong Kong passport being admitted.  He had on a gambling jacket from Macao.  When I entered he was already laying bets down on the Roulette table.  I looked for poker but they had NONE.  I found one blackjack $10 minimum bet with 6 decks.  Impossible to win on.  My only bet would be to try my luck on the black/red or odd/even Roulette.  I was tired and decided to return when I could think clearly.

It is almost 2am now and I have to get tickets to Bucharest and a place to stay. I got a couple extra days to relax here now.  This place is a little more than I wanted to pay but comfortable and great location with amenities.

Room View

Bless Me Father for I’ve been having a good time!

Theater

Me Sleeping

I slept late and left around 11am for some fresh squeezed OJ next door then ended up at Costa Coffee for my morning or afternoon fix.  It was actually raining for the first time of my vacation.  I had one or two days of  drizzle and overcast but it was raining!  I left when it let up and decided to research my options on the computer now that I had three more days here.  I booked a hotel in Bucharest for two days. The rates were high and not much that I wanted to see in the city. My other alternatives was to visit the city Dracula or Valdemir the Impaler was from.  His name came from his passion for cutting off peoples heads and putting them on stakes around his castle.  Not much different than what the North Vietnamese did to our soldiers during the war…hey it was war.  Ask Lt Calley? Where was all that Napalm manufactured and the Agent Orange that killed one of my best friends way before his time. Enough, I booked a hostel in Belgrade for three days before my flight to Amsterdam.  I didn’t know what to do with the few days in between Bucharest and Belgrade?

It was late and I was hoping to visit some of the sights my first real day in Varna so left for the City Gallery but ended up at City Hall.  Time was running short so I went on to one of the museums but with only a half hour till closing they weren’t admitting anyone.  I continued on to St Mary’s , a World Heritage Church with Icons painted onto the entire interior.  I walked in during a Mass and noted the sign that said 6 Lev for Photo or Video. A Priest was standing in front monitoring the people coming in.  I asked if I paid 6 Lev could I take photos.  He said yes and I could make a donation of whatever I wanted right there or pay the 6 Lev at the cashier’s desk.   I donated 10 Lev and he took a tree branch and dunked it in Holy Water.  I thought he was going to spank me with it but instead he hit me on the head and blessed me.  Everyone else got a little paint brush dipped in Holy Water then tapped on their forehead.  It must have been the donation bought me a special blessing.  He did ask where I was from and when I told him he seemed to know but never said anything other than yes…Arizona. The church was beautiful .  I almost converted back with all that blessing and the Mass and the art!  It was truly inspiring…and I’m not just saying that.  I’ve been in a lot of Cathedrals, Mosques and Churches and I think they are all better suited to be galleries or concert halls but this one was exceptional.

I crossed the street and went to tourist information to find the best way to get to Bucharest?  The bus.  I had to leave at 6am…totally against my “travel” religion or take a normal bus to the border at Ruse. Then I would have to book another bus from there to Bucharest.  I could do that at 10:30…make the border at around 1:30 and if lucky,  catch the bus to my destination at almost the same time as my arrival.  Now I have a game plan.

I browsed an outdoor photo exhibit of Bulgaria’s heritage sites and decided if I returned I would have to rent a car to do this proper.  I found a Happy Bar and ordered my Sushi and Wine then reordered some more.  The more never came.  I stopped three waitresses and all said OK but none brought the rest of my food. I finally just asked for the bill then miraculously my food arrived like it was just thrown together at the last minute.  I remembered…it is Allah and smiled and thanked them , ate my food, paid the bill but never left a tip…Allah’s will.

I decided to return to the Casino with the intentions of just played Red or Black on the Roulette table .  I took 200 Lev from the ATM, got my membership card, entered the casino and placed 100 Lev on Red as a bet at a crowded table.  The Croupier took the money as a request for chips and set it aside, spun the wheel and dropped the pithe ball before I could say NO that was a bet.  Thank God , Black came up!  She then gave me 100 Lev in chips and I ran them up right away but before I could cash them I started losing and chasing my losses until they were gone.  OK.  I still had another 100 Lev so decided to try the blackjack table where the stakes were 5 Lev minimum bet vs 10 the night before.  Still a 6 deck draw but I decided to give it a try.  I won back my 100 Lev and got a few free beers, met some nice people and cashed out to go back to the now Empty Roulette table and put 100 Lev on Red again.  This time I won then took my three hundred Lev to the cashier and walked out with 100 Lev profit that paid for my hotel , meals, and all my spending for the day. Not bad considering I just lost 10% of my life savings on the stock market in just the last three days.  Allah’s Will again.

I’m listening to Sky .FM …this is the best and free…I copied the last few songs so when I return I can buy or search for them.  I’ll share them with you:
Denean – Song for Israfel,
Thierry David – Sigh of The Goddess,
Llewellyn & Juliana – Swimming With Dolphins Part.II,
Juliana – The Calling
…better yet go to http://www.Sky.fm  and tune into the vocal world music station.  It really is incredible.

They had a problem with stray dogs so now test them for rabies, neuter them then tag them on their ear so when you see a tagged dog you can pet and feed them and know they are friendly.  Most have homes around hotels or restaurants where people accept them…or out on the streets.  You very seldom see a dog on a leash and most run in packs but aren’t a problem now.  This is where ever I visited in the Balkans. Goodnight!

David made his usual stop at Starbucks for a fresh Orange Juice and Latte .  You would think you were in a California Starbucks with all the beautiful young couples there .  The ones that spend more time looking at themselves in a mirror than each other.  The ones that spend more time posting Text Messages on Facebook than talking to each other.  Every morning it was like that, I had to pinch myself. Istanbul-California?

Boat to Nantucket, Istanbul…taken by Harvard Mom

 I took the tram to the Docks , got my ticket and boarded the ferry for the Black Sea.  It was a pleasant hour and a half ride and very beautiful scenery. I saw a lady that wore a sweat shirt that said Harvard Mom.  That was not a tourist thing or flea market sweat shirt.  Her daughter is in her second year and she has been to Boston and loved it.  I think she was from the Balkans but never asked, Duh.

 Most all of us exited at the last stop and then heading for a Castle on the hill.  David headed back to town and wandered around  just relaxing and reading.  He had a nice lunch of Fresh Whole Sea Bass  and a glass of wine.  Three hours went by fast and the ship was boarding again.  He joined everyone and had a plan to  take the Tram to the Grand Bazaar in search of an Alarm clock that would wake him at 6:30 so he wouldn’t miss his 9am bus to Varna Bulgaria.

It was getting a bit chilly so David went inside to relax when he dozed off.  What seemed like an hour he awoke in a daze realizing the ship was stopping .  He had moved to the bottom floor and could see the crew pulling off the gate to put down the gang plank so he went to the bathroom . He came out as the line was exiting so he did too but didn’t recognize the port.  Then he turned around to see everyone was still on the ship and only about 25 people got off.  He started back when the gang plank disappeared as the ship pulled away and left him.  He got off  at the stop before the last stop.

No Alarm Clocks!

Lost Twice in one day!

 OK  he could just take a water taxi so bought a token and then  realized no water taxis went where he wanted.  He asked about getting on the next tour boat  of the company he just got off of.  It would be another hour and he had used up his ticket.  They might let him on or not?  He found a bus was departing in 10 minutes just up the street so ran up just in time to board but the driver  wouldn’t take his money.  He had to buy a ticket in the kiosk right next to the bus.  OK but there was a line and while he was waiting the bus left without him . Finally he go a ticket which was $6 on top of the $15 he paid for the ticket and the other $1 for the token he can’t use for the water taxi.  Not to worry, another bus arrived shortly and he was on his way back.  Hoping to have time to buy an alarm.  He needed an alarm he can carry on his person!

 Well I would have been home and showered by now but after boarding the bus 25 minutes ago I think we have move about 1/4  of a mile.  The traffic is 5 pm traffic, hornblowing , bottlenecked and I’m on the  Non A/C bus.  It could be worse, I could be standing instead of sitting. Oh well…my fault…no it’s Allah’s will!  Nothing can be done so relax . Wait!  I’m now near the Tram I want to take.  I don’t have to go all the way through this traffic on a bus, I can get off and just get on the Tram earlier and avoid all this traffic.  What would Allah say?  The hell !

I’m off and now riding in Air Conditioned comfort and just passed the bus I was on. Maybe I do have time to make the Market and buy the alarm clock.  The what clock you say?  We have watches and cells phones…maybe if you go to the Old Bazaar down the hall about a mile they might have one???  So much for that.  I put in a wake up call when I returned to the hotel for 6:15 and hope he is awake to knock on my door.  The same guy that was asleep when I first arrived.  It has been a good stay and a good day.  Tomorrow…Varna Bulgaria on the Black Sea…which I did get to see today but no beaches. Goodnight and Good Luck!

I wanted to get to bed early. Tomorrow would be an adventure. Hell I have a hard time crossing the street in this city and now I’m touring it on a motorbike. I gave up playing Texas Holdem and started watching the PBS American Experience story of Wyatt Earp.  What a great story and interesting man.  My life seems boring after watching that.  Well we will see what happens tomorrow.  Mark Twain comments about the wild west after the Civil War…was it was an American BBQ .

Mark Twain also commented about his experience at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.  He was a travel writer also.  He said : “We went to the grand Bazaar in Stamboul, of course, and I shall not describe it further than to say it is a monstrous hive of little shops–thousands, I should say–all under one roof, and cut up into innumerable little blocks by narrow streets which are arched overhead. One street is devoted to a particular kind of merchandise, another to another, and so on.”  He added that everyone should see it.  I’m going to the Bazaar tomorrow or the next day for sure.  I leave in three days. Lots to do.

Orhan driving

What was I thinking?

Grand Bazaar

Orhan met me as planned and suggested the Grand Bazaar right off. So I hopped on the back of his BMW Motorbike and we speed off into the Turkish Traffic .

It was only a short distance and  we spent about an hour in this Maze of shops that was a city within the city.  It was huge, well organized, clean, and you really could find whatever you want if you had time to explore and didn’t get lost.  If you really wanted to just see it all without shopping, it would take 3 hours.It was built in the 15th century, covering an area on 54,653 square meters and is the oldest and largest covered bazaar in the world.It has 21 gates, ,17 inns, 66 streets, nearly 4000 shops and employs more than 30000 people.

We took off to the other side of the city to climb the Galata Tower.  It looked imposing and I started to groan as we walked in until I saw the elevator!  My heart leaped.  We bought our ticket, entered the elevator and went up but the elevator stopped and let us out on the seventh floor.  We walked up another 4 floors and steps out on the circular walkway to see the best view of Istanbul there is.  After some picture and video taking we decided to take lunch at a nearby restaurant the Orhan recommended for the food and the view.

Let’s go Da vid

  It was a short walk and we were seated on the balcony overlooking the city.  I decided to have some lamb.  I love it and in Turkey, lamb is a staple cooked many ways so I tried a lamb and mushroom stuffed crepe with cream sauce and cheese on top.  Orhan shared some of his Chicken salad and after coffee we were off for a walk.

Chicken Salad

Lamb and Mushroom Crepe

Tower View from the Restaurant

We were next to one of the longest pedestrian walkways in the world and Istanbul for sure.  It turned out it was the same one I went to the night I arrived and was staying at the hot hostel.  I started up the mountain and ended up in this busy huge street but didn’t realize it was the one I was now on until we started to get to the end.  We stopped by a great unusual Art exhibit called “Hold Me Close to Your Heart”  ,an amazing record-music store, and an original Japanese novelty store with very unique gifts like a solar powered rainbow maker.  Seriously. We stopped for some espresso then headed back to the Motorbike.

Great Pedestrian Street

David trying to Photo Mini Cooper Police car…Police telling David he is on the Tram Track

Again, How do I get on this?

Thank you officer!

This is Scary

Orhan was deft at moving through the intense traffic while returning me to the hotel.  He had highly recommended I take the ship to the Black Sea tomorrow, have a nice seafood lunch and return.  A beautiful 6 hours voyage.  I decided to do that .  As we were going through the traffic I noted a man in a wheelchair. I thought that he was going to be killed trying to cross in the traffic hour.  Later I saw the same in Bucharest.  What they were doing was begging money from cars.  He dropped me at the hotel and I booked a room in a Hotel for Varna , Bulgaria .  I made it for two nights before I remembered I have Bulgarian SERVAS hosts that said they would put me up if they were available.  I also emailed them and asked to stay on two more days if they were still open to the offer.

I then went out to see what was happening during Ramadan. Ramadan is Here.  Ramadan is Here the Documentary  This documentary is pretty much what I’m witnessing and sharing with these people.  Food vendors were in the streets with special deals for take out limited menu specials.  The restaurants were also offering only  fixed menus at a set price because they were busy with take out.  Lines waited to get food to return home to the waiting family and guests.  When the Minaret called a pray to eat.  Food came out of everywhere and hungry fasters became ravinous pigs.  You could hear a pin drop in Istanbul…everyone was feasting . Special foods were laid out for huge and small groups of people gathered to share the meal after going all day with nothing.  People were happy and laughing.  Many were dressed really nice for this celebration.  Even the women dressed head to toe were sexy and attractive while making a fashion statement. I’m not talking about the ones with their faces covered dressed in black. They weren’t out in public.  Too difficult to eat under the veil. You could not get any alcoholic beverages in any of the restaurants during this month during the day. There is lots of music also. Free concerts in the park every night from 8-10pm. Not all of the 98% Muslims in Turkey adhere to fasting.  Yasar and Orhan laughed…go without food all day…are you crazy. Orhan and I had lunch together.

 David is also one of the Prophets of Islam as is Jesus.  Mohamed was the last and the one who Gabriel the Archangel passed down the revelations to create the Qua ran…which was memorized and passed on as Mohamed couldn’t write. His parents passed away when he was young so he grew up an orphan.  Years later it was put into writing.