Author: David Taylor

David got caught up in his Sudoku at Starbucks this morning and was a little late but Yasar was there waiting. The plan was the Sultan’s Palace then to get some Tea for David’s ongoing sore throat and stuffed up sinuses.

Excuse me, do I know you?

Entrance to the Palace

View from the terrace

Marching band

He needed to call Orhan too to see about meeting him the next day but had thrown out the number that he wrote on his Suduko puzzle.  The Palace was impressive and reminded him of Alhambra in Spain.  It was a city within the city surrounded by walls.  The kitchens alone had huge two story ovens and cooked for 20000 a Day!  There are no more Sultans left…only their Jewels, Thrones, Palaces, Gardens, etc.

David in the Hajia Sophia

Hajia Sophia

We walked to the Spice Market and stopped for Tea on the way.  I invited Yasar to return there after the Spice market and have lunch with me.  Yasar took me to the Rustem Pasa Camii Mosque and presented me with a Quran in English.   Hmmm, I haven’t even read the Bible and have Dracula (Devil in Romanian) , the second most read book in the world on my list. I am almost done the Dublin a Rare Old City and bought a Turkish Nobel Prize Winning author to read.   I’m sure I’ll find time to browse the Quran.

 We went on to get a Mix of different spiced Teas for my cold, stopped to get a replacement hook for the one on my bag that broke then returned for lunch. Yasar accompanied me back to the hotel by Trolley and I bid him goodbye when he inquired about his  pay for the day?  I thought it was understood I paid him in full yesterday for the whole tour.  He said no it was 85 Lira a day.  I said yes…two mornings…half days make one full day but that isn’t how he understood my offer the day before so I paid him again.  It still wasn’t a bad deal but I should have made it clear or went with the original plan and done the whole tour in one day.  Live and learn?




Then I went to the tour agent next to the hotel and booked an early morning bus to Varna Bulgaria for Thursday and paid twice the price for that convenience.  The bonus was that it was a first class bus and the others left at 10:30 at night.


Tonight people with set up tents, and make shift huts and places to eat when the sun goes down.  This will be the completion of the first day of fasting and everyone gets together to share their food.  People buy exotic and special foods to celebrate Ramadan and make spaces outside their homes for everyone to join each other in feasting.  There is music concerts outside and inside of the Mosques also. Over 98% of the 75 Million people in Turkey are Sunni Muslims.   12 Million live in Istanbul that increases to 14 Million during tourist season in the summer. 
  
The commander of Turkey’s armed forces, as well as the chiefs of its army, navy, and air force, resigned in protest following the arrest of about 250 officers on charges of conspiring against the government of Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan, who is developing a new
constitution to improve Turkish democracy.  Another thing was to restrict Internet access and content throughout the country???  Why…to protect the children. He closed down You Tube and I think over 3700 other web sites.  The reason that so many resigned is because he arrested their fellow officers without cause…only suspicion and was not allowing them due process.  He has aligned himself with the Head of Libya, Syria, Iran, and broke off ties with Israel.  Turkey is a powerful country and a power keg along with Russia.  What is going on in Syria is so far being sanctioned by the world and allowed to continue. We are in for a major crisis not only with the economy but with the world.  It will effect all of us and is doing that now. Turkey also has major problems with domestic violence. Liberal Muslims allow some rights for their women.., another big plus is Starbucks and McDonald’s hire them…you don’t see women at Mohammed Kebab . Strict Muslims say the women’s place is at home taking care of the children and their men! If a complaint about domestic violence is lodged against a Muslim man with 5 wives, it’s the job of a Muslim Policeman or investigator with 5 wives to bring charges and a Muslim Judge with 5 wives to oversee the case?


I found Orhan’s number and had the front desk call him for me.  He had hoped I would stay over at his place at least one night but I explained about the hotel that I was paid in advance.  We agreed to meet at 9:30 the next morning at my hotel.  He said dress to ride on the back of my 1200 BMW Motorcycle.  He travels with it quite a bit.  He also collects vintage Motorbikes and has 8 of them…2 are WWII German Nazi Motorcycles…he also has a vintage Jag Convertible and is a professional Electronic Engineer.  He is a bit of an artist, photographer, who enjoys jazz,skiing, Scuba, and travel to include Argentina to dance the Tango…another of his joys.

Fresh Squeezed OJ for $1

Honey? Honey!

Fresh Liquid Yogurt on Draught

Cheeses

I checked out of the oven at 7am.  Walked down to the Tram stop and had a fresh squeezed OJ before boarding the Tram to the other side of Istanbul across the bridge. After checking in I complained the AC was not up to snuff but it was a weekend and the only thing they could do was move me but not until the next day. I had a good internet connection so went along with that.  Then I left for the Spice Market and more exploring.There David purchased exotic Turkish Delights, figs stuffed with walnuts, mulberries coated with pistachios , famous Turkish coffees , took some photos and returned to the Hot Hotel.  He went out that night to get a bite to eat and for a walk in the park when he was approached by a Turkish man that explained he worked at the University across the street.  It was summer and he supplemented his non income by doing private tours at reasonable rates.  David had no problem with that and had used services similar in other situations so agreed on 35 Euro for a full day of tours in the immediate area.  They were to meet the next morning at the restaurant outside of David’s hotel at 9:30 am.

Slow cooked Innards.

He showed up just as David was finishing breakfast . David felt a two half day tours better than one long day of walking in the heat.  He agreed and on the way to the first site, David noticed an advertisement for a similar restaurant as the one advertised in the NY Times that he wanted to go back to that evening. He asked the guide about the meat…was it pork and he replied it was the innards . OK…David was not going back for innards.  He asked about another restaurant he heard of in the new area that served only rice and beans and was famous.  The guide knew of it immediatly and they agreed to have lunch there after the morning tour.

Blue Mosque

Yasar

First stop was the Blue Mosque..the largest in Europe.

Welcome

 Muslims take absolution before entering the Mosque. They wash their face, hands and wrists, and their feet and ankles then take off their shoes and enter the Mosque.  The women do this on on the other side so the men are not aroused by the sight of their ankles. Tomorrow start of Ramadan where there is no sex or eating allowed after the sun goes up until it goes down. The goes for thirty days.  I believe my guide said the first night after the first day of fasting, everyone eats free and together.  Rich or poor , young or old,etc get together with their neighbors and share the first meal after the first day of fasting. Turkey is a Muslim state. The internet IS restricted throughout Turkey.  To what degree I’m not sure but no nudity or sex can be found. This restriction on sexual morals in a country where it is OK to have 5 wives and I am pretty sure they don’t have to be 18 to get married or have an arranged marriage, seems to be a contradiction. I think it screws up the natural desires of people when women go around completely covered in black in 100% heat walking behind their man.  I see children running up to Mannequins displaying western wear, such as a dress on the street, and grab the crotch of the Mannequin then go to the next and squeeze her breasts.  Suppressed sexual behavior causes deviant not natural results.  I am not Freud but he had a point.

The Blue Mosque was very impressive.  Next we toured the Hagia Sophia Museum which originally was a Christian Church , then a Mosque and now a Museum.  Also very nice.

Hagia Sophia

Stick in your thumb and twist for good luck.

Cistern with Marble Columns in Water

Medusa

Then to end the tour for the morning we visited the ancient Basilica Cistern ,527AD ,that used to supply the water to the people.  It was under the Hadgi Sophia.  This was very nice because it was cool and COOL at the same time. Arabic background music in the background echoing throughout added a nice touch.

Yasar, David’s guide , took him to the restaurant Ali Baba for world famous beans and rice made with love. Served with the usual Garden fresh Organic Cukes, Tomatoes, with a little lemon and olive oil dressing and bread…they were great.  After, David made a point of saying he wanted to pay Yasar now for everything.  The 35 Euros or 85 Lira so he could settle it now rather than tomorrow.  Yasar agreed and David tipped him 15 more Lira and bought his lunch. Yasar walked him back to the hotel explaining he was a guest in his country and busksters were annoying so he would keep them away.  He also carried David’s bottled water or any things he might have bought.  He acted like his personal valet and bodyguard.

Large Pot is Beans

Who could ask for more.

When David arrived , he had been moved into his new really cold room with a double bed , cable tv that worked, private bath, refrigerator and internet connection.  He was very happy, took a rest then went out to eat some hummus and relax with his book in the park. Sure enough a Buckster approached David and said as usual…Where you from?  You could say Egypt and he would say he used to live in Cairo…in this case it was Saratoga Springs N. Y.   He told David he would like to give him his card and David accepted, expecting him to hand it over.  That’s not how they work…you have to follow him to his office just across the street.  David explained he just wanted to walk in the park but the man insisted only one moment to get his card.   Then he walked in his fancy Carpet and Ceramic dish place and a boy popped out of nowhere with some Tea for David.   David said he had to leave and the man accused him of insulting him.  Now I will drink your Tea for you!  Please at least sit while I drink your Tea.  Don’t insult me further.  David walked out wishing Yasar his bodyguard had been there. He read a little in the park then went back to his hotel.

 The restaurant owner outside his hotel asked David to join him.  David had a beer and chatted with the owner for over an hour.  He also sold carpet and told David the differences between a Turkish carpet and the Turkish carpet David put in his dining room. It was interesting.  It was time to retire for another tour with Yasar.  The call to prayer went out but it was different this time.  Tonight was the start of Ramadan and 30 days of fasting from food and sex during the daylight. I could hear the call like a chorus of people chanting while in my room so threw the window open.  It lasted a few minutes then ceased but was very pleasant.

Hirohito from Tokyo

I think I’ll call Bruce on Skype

 Hirohito, my new Japanese lady friend and I waited and waited  along with about 20 others that were sprawled out the the concret platform hoping the trian would arrive. She had been with the same company as an office worker for 6 years.  She said over 50% of Japanese work for the same company all there lives. We all knew it was a sleeper and all nighter so most were prepared for it.  The 9:07 arrived from Sophia to transport us to Istanbul around Midnight.  We boarded and were shown our berths.  Mine already had two sleeping passengers on the middle and upper bunk.  I crawled into the bottom bunk .  It was an oven with no circulation .  The door into the hall was closed to keep the light and noise out.  The shades were drawn and windows closed.  I sweated and rocked with the movement of the train for around 3 hours until we reached the border.

 We were all awakened  and waited while a Bulgarian checked each compartment and each passenger. That took about one hour.  Then we resumed our positions and the train ran for about 15 minutes when we were stopped and ordered off the train to stand in line to stamp our entry into Turkey.  I read we needed to buy a Visa at this point.  Some did and some didn’t but no one found out until  they reached the border guard who sent me out and down the road to the Visa control guy to buy my Visa.  No Bulgarian Levs accepted so I had to stand in line at the duty free kiosk to change money to Euros and buy my Visa , put it into the passport and return to the border guard line.  The line had doubled since they let out more of the “2nd Class” passengers.  I finally got my passport stamped and returned to my hot bunk.

The train departed around 3 am and was cooler now.  l finally fell asleep for at least 6 hours before being awakened every time the train stopped to let some passengers out at the different Whistle Stops along the way.   The conductor had to wake the whole train to make sure he didn’t miss anyone.  One of my bunk mates had a girlfriend that couldn’t sleep and kept coming in to see if he was awake and wanted to talk…she was pissing off me and the other guy who didn’t even know the man with the needy girlfriend.

We exited the train in Istanbul at 12:15 in the afternoon exhausted and hungary.  I was in no mood to hassle with the Tram directions the Hostel gave. I hired a taxi who wanted 40 Lira…now I don’t know what that was in dollars but sounded like around $25 in dollars. I guessed right.  I baulked but he started up with  gas in Istanbul is $3 a litter blah blah and I explained to him I was sick , tired and hungry and really just wanted him to drive me to the Hostel.  I paid him and walked in to an oven.

 Do I have a fan in my room …no.  I am cancelling my reservation for 6 days to this ” top rated  hostel”  and will pay for tonight.  He gave me the 6th floor walk up!  It was an oven.  I haven’t been able to access the internet as advertised and the one computer they have always has a line of people waiting.  Now I can’t even get on the computer to find another place to stay so I just left to find a hotel.  I walked back to the water front , found an ATM so I could pay my bill , had a small delicious fast food lunch and returned up the mountain.   I was trying to get an idea as to where the hotels would be.  I knew they weren’t on the waterfront so took a shower, changed into shorts and took off for the water front again to take a water taxi to the center of town. As I was on my way back down the Mountain, I noticed a Chef outside with a rotisserarie smoking meat with wood charcoal.  Then I noticed he advertised a review by the N.Y. Tmes for his famous smoked meats.  He asked if I wish to sit down but explained I just had a snack earlier and would stop on my return.

I got to the dock, I paid a dollar, jumped on the departing ferry with the crowd .  I then realized this was not a taxi to the other side but a trip to Nantucket.  It was early and pleasant the for $1 a great ride.  The air was cool on the water and the ferries and sea buses were going back and forth  like Venice.  Just not mine.  Mine crossed the Strait of Istanbul from Europe to Asia .  I panicked when we arrived and everyone rushed to get off to get the train to Syria or something.  I asked one of the crew who explained they will eventurally return to the original starting point so just relax, stay aboard and enjoy.  I did .  All these ships were state of the art with wide screen TV , in Turkish, snack bars, multi levels, clean and great facilities.  I did return and decided to take the Tram to the Sultanitina or some big tourist attracted across the water in one of the main centers of Asian Istanbul where I might find a hotel.

Asia

Europe

  The trams were top of the line, AIR CONDITIONED, clean, efficient and accepted  smart cards, micro chips, or tokens that could be purchase at  machines that accepted  bills or coins with directions in English and three othe languages.   This was nice.  I exited near one of the most famous Mosques in the world and saw a sign for a hotel.  The streets were packed with Turks and Tourists and everything was alive.  People praying in the streets.  Beautiful displays of food , Cafes with exotic menus both expensive and cheap.  I found the entrance and walked up to find the desk clerk sound asleep on the couch.  He was startled and embarresed but showed me a room immediatly…yes it had A/C, internet Wi Fi, private bath and centrally located for the tour buses and sights.  How much….50Euros!  OK that was double what I was paying and with our dollar in the dumps…came out to be $70.  5 days…$400.  I told him I would think about it but after checking out another that wanted 80  Euros…I took it.

Excuse Me…can I get by here?

Yum

Yum

One of those…and those and ….

I wandered around a bit and took some photos then decided to return to the NY Times award winning restaurant. The Tram proved very convieient so I arrived at the bottom of the Mountain and slowly walked to the restaurant where I was informed I was too late!  I thought he was joking until I noticed all the meats he smoked with the wood charcoal were gone.  He spends all day makeing this dish then sells in out in about 2 hours.  Not a bad life.  If I want to try it, I have to return at 7pm the next day.  I passed up all those great restaurants to be turned down…I have to eat there now.

Milk Pudding with Ice Cream

 Meanwhile I trudged up the mountain to the hostel.  There was one place still open.  This is not the busy part of town and most restaurants have closed for the evening.  I found one and David , an Australian I met earlier when checking in the hostel was just finishing.  I quickly asked to see a menu before the owner closed on me.  He showed me the menu then took me to his kitchen where he has all his creations on display.  He must make them during the day  then lays them out at room temperature until he sells them…then they served them that way!  I experienced this in the last city and didn’t die but really wish I could eat at a real restaurant that was cooking food to order.  I took the stuffed peppers served at room temperature.

 David and I chatted about our travels.  He retried around 8 years ago and backpacks 2 months out of the year.  He was in the travel business and after he and his wife were married they traveled around the world…typical Aussie walk about.  Both have traveled a lot together but lately he travels mostly alone to places he has never been.  A wealth of information about Myanmar , China, Pakistan, and travel in general.  I wanted a beer but nothing sold alchocol near a Mosque so he suggested I climb the rest of the mountain where all the restaurants and bars were.  I wasn’t to enthused about his suggestion but neither was I enthused about spending the evening in a oven without something to assist my sleep.  We exchanged email addresses and  I took off up the mountain.

 I mean cobblestone streets straight up with no shops, lights or encouragement until I neared the top.  There was an entire city up there that was alive and vibrant with all the streets a maze of bars, Hookah bars, night clubs, restaurants, cafes, all packed  and then the Main Drag…a pedestrian boulevard with fancy shops and ice cream shops everywhere.  People were out in groves.  I read the police raided the businesses there. Recently Istanbul imposed a “No Smoking” in bars or restaurants.  Well we have seen what happens in the beginning and the same happened here.  Everyone wanted to sit outside so they could smoke.  The business owners moved all their furniture into the streets to accommodate the customers.  The local residents couldn’t even walk down their own streets and the barely two lanes became one so cars couldn’t get through either. The morning found trash everywhere so the residents complained, the police raided the businesses and forced the owners to put the furniture back inside.   Well it looked to me that didn’t last long…all the streets were full of people sitting outside!  I bought some gin and orange juice then returned to my oven.

 I couldn’t sleep so came down to do my blog.  Nice crowd of travelers I should be visiting with.  The clerk just brought over my laundry.  They offered to do it for 10 lira and I explained I really only have a shirt and pants but would be willing to pay the 10 Lira or $6 to have it done.  Since it was such a small amount he did if for free and just handed it to me. Nice Gesture. Australian David had retired early as he was checking out at 6 am to explore the Golden Horn, an area up the Strait of Istanbul where I traveled by boat.  He was getting off and walking it.   Stay tuned for more “trails and trials” of David.

OK the bitch from hell didn’t fire her slave.  Thank God…she makes great coffee.  The only thing at the Orient Express Hostel I enjoyed.  I booked the Plovdiv Hostel ASAP and took a taxi to the Bus station, bought a ticket to Plodiv for $10 boarded, fell asleep and woke in Plodiv.

This city goes back to 670 BC or thereabouts.  I took a cab from the station to the center and found my Hotel with AC, a Refrigerator, private bath and daily maid service in the center of the Old Town…I booked another day immediatly.  I was on vacation from my travels!  It was heaven. The last night in Sofia, the nightly fireworks display at 10pm was followed by a real fireworks display of Thunder and Lightening most of the night.  I closed the windows to sleep.  Tonight in Plovdiv while eating at the Vinalia Wine Bistro it started to Thunder again.  It was refreshing but still no real rain.  I finished early, picked up a map at one of 20 Casinos in town. Bulgarians seem to take life very seriously.  They are intellectually focused and seldom smile or especially laugh.  Kind of like the Germans. My tour guide in Sofie did have a dry sense of humor but at least she make a joke once an a while while smiling and managed a laugh.

     I’m walking to the train station tomorrow and make sure I have a ticket for Istanbul on Thursday Night.  I hope to be over this cold or flu I’ve been nursing for over two weeks now. My throat is still sore, I’m still coughing and my lung is still throwing up green glue.Speaking of that, I’ve seen gypsy children around 8-13 years old , openly sniffing glue or paint in a paper or plastic bag in the public squares in more than one country in the Balkans.

Information?

Rail Tickets sold Here!

I had breakfast , then booked a free tour for the following day.   The excursion to the Train Station was no easy task.  The walk was pleasant but trying to find out how to get into it and then buy a ticket was an experience.  There are two bus stations and a train station in the the same area with a super highway / boulevard separating them.  There is an underground maze of shops and entrances and exits that connect all of them.  I finally managed to get to the train station information in the lobby.  She told be I had to cross the Boulevard to  to the ticket office across the street and gave me the address.  I finally discovered a breach in the wall separating the high speed traffic that ran down both sides.  Got to the center and finally made the other side without becoming road kill.  Finally I found the hot office with no ventilation and a one lady who informed me the train was full tonight.  I explained I wasn’t going tonight and she said it was full tomorrow too.  I said I was leaving until Thursday night and she seemed disappointed that she would have to sell me a ticket.  Thirty minutes later I walked out with a ticket on a bottom berth on an overnight train to Istanbul.  If it is close to the adventure I had finding the station and getting the ticket, it will be interesting.

I walked back to the hotel stopping along the way to treat myself to an Ice Cream and Cafe.  I also replenished my medicine for the sore throat and cough, took a shower, paid the hotel bill and left for Terry’s Irish Pub. While I was paying the bill , a gentleman overheard me and told me he was from Louisville, Kentucky.  He is a resident of Turkey now where he has worked the past few years.

Terry’s Irsh Pub was called the Global Bar.  Nice name Terry but no one was there. It was around 7 pm and I walked a distance to hopefully find someone to talk to in English.  I returned to have dinner at Hemingway’s.  Big mistake to eat at a chain restaurant.  The food was eatable…and that is all I can say.

Tour Guide had great Body Language

Small Group and Quiet

The following morning I went right for the tour at the Tourist Information.  It was scheduled for 9:30 but after keeping us standing around in the hot sun they finally started the tour at 10pm.  Two and a half hours of not understanding the tour guide and climbing hills…mountains on cobblestones…I was ready to have lunch.  I came down off the mountain with no directions from the guide and was lost, hot and tired.  I finally took lunch at the Vinalia where I ate two nights ago. The Chicken soup was room temperature but really tasty , then came the Bulgarian Specialty of Stuffed Peppers with a cream sauce.  It was cold or also room temperature which I didn’t expect but figured that is the way so I ate it.

Then a quick nap and I was off to the Casino for a Texas Holdem tournament.  It turned out there weren’t enough people so I wasted $10 in a slot and left for dinner at Happy’s.  It made me Happy!  I had some wine at a very cheap price, then ordered the Shashimi special with 6 different fresh raw fish marinated is lemon and served with soy and ginger…to die for! I ordered some California Sushi Rolls after then had a Sushi Dessert wrapped in chocolate with coconut instead of rice and candied Papaya and Mango center!  Another winner.

Now I felt like playing Texas Holdem.  I went to the ATM then on to the table and bought some chips to get into a regular game of all in Texas Holdem….then I went to the ATM and did it over again. I finally got it right and after 3 hours at the table I managed to have a great time with my Bulgarian friends…get all my drinks for free….and only lost about $50 in the end.  I won most of the money back on Roulette playing Black Odd as I was leaving. A ploy I often use that seems to work and enable me to spend a lot of time having fun for almost nothing. No Blackjack was available though I was told if I requested it they would provide a dealer.  I did …they didn’t.  It is hard to make any money at a Casino run by the Russian Mafia in the Balkans or the Baltic’s or Poland, Hungary, Czech Republic,…well you get the point.

Late night television had an Escort Business that showed off the ladies assets and their talents!  Another was an info commercial for a strap on vibrating dildo so if your man wasn’t enough to please you , your girlfriend could.   Tomorrow it is the Midnight train to Istanbul, Turkey…wish me luck.

Going to miss this Plovdiv

Well I spent the day catching up on emails and booking my air ticket to Buffalo when I return.  I was going to return to the Casino but instead took a walk to a club that offered some eclectic choices on the menu.  I checked out at 5pm and left my luggage in storage until 8pm when I’ll take a taxi to the Train station for my 9:10 connection to Istanbul from Sofia.  I am not enthused about that part of the trip as it is hot and I don’t think I sleep well in a bottom berth on an all night train that stops at the border for passport checks…we shall see.  Right now I’m sitting at the Art Club in the outdoor Terrace working on my blog. The cold yogurt soup and wine was great. Now enjoying a double Illy Espresso with Chocolate Mouse while listening to Internet Sky Jazz Radio. A treat before I depart.  Yes the whole city has Free Wi-Fi connections!

  I can get Internet Connection but no cold bottled water here.  I’m on the Track with another 30-40 minutes to wait and a young Japanese girl to keep me company. This is going to be hot if the train is not Air Conditioned.  There is a breeze out now but still hot and humid. The Taxi driver told me he would take me for 70 Lev…I paid 50 for an all night sleeper with a border stop.  He could have had me there in less time but the Taxi was hot too.  Everything is Hot …can’t wait to return to cool Arizona.  Two hours later I decided to call Bruce on my Sky network on the computer…it was like he was right there in the train station. Amazing. I played Texas Holdem until my battery ran down.  Where is that train.

The bus ride to Sofia, about 6 hours was pleasant and air-conditioned with one appropriate “Bus Stop” called Merilyn’s after Marilyn Monroe.  When the bus entered the city, it looked depressing and run down.  David slept a little arrived refreshed, changed his money over and headed for the city center and Orient Express Hostel.  He had made up his mind that he didn’t want to stay three nights in this city.  Directions said to take Tram 12 and get off at the center.  David found the Tram but someone he asked didn’t know where the stop was and suggested a taxi.  David walked and walked until he was lost in the “Center”.  There was a lot of road construction for a add on to the subway system.  The sidewalks were all tore up; and barriers were everywhere…David took a taxi…that went around the block and dropped him at his hostel in two minutes.  Directions said the Hostel was on the fourth floor but there was no signs indication there was any Hostel at this address.  He walked in the front door and after he got up to the 2nd floor, decided to leave the suitcase.  Then on the fourth floor their were two apartments but no sign so he started knocking and trying to ring a bell but no answer/.  He walked back grabbed his suitcase and returned to the outside where he noticed one of the bells said Hostel…Fifth Floor.  Now the door was locked so he rang the bell and sure enough they buzzed him into the building where he walked up 5 flights to one HOT hostel.  He immediatly told the desk lady that he was only staying 2 instead of 3 days…she didn’t speak any English so called the owner on the mobile. She explained to David a 3 days cancellation notice was policy and I could do what I wanted but she was charging me for 3 days. David hung up and got on the internet with Hostel World to complain.  He noted the listing said 24 hour cancellation notice so before paying he called the owner and she accepted his two day notice.  The room slept three people and was Hot with the sun coming in the open window and jackhammers pounding away 5 floors down. David took a shower, paid, booked his next place with A/C and left for dinner.

Vladimir my Idol

He met a couple of travelers from the Canary Islands and they recommended a free walking tour they did that day.  It was 3 hours and started at 6pm but was threatening rain.  The tour on Sunday, the next day was at 11am and 6 pm so David decided to do it on Sunday.  The Confetti Restaurant across the Street was packed and when he tried to get a seat on the Terrace he was  informed that without a reservation he would have to sit inside.  He did and it was great.  He returned to bed, slept well , had some coffee and toast when he awoke and left to explore. He met Vladimir  Alekseevich along the way and donated some money for gas so he could continue his travels around the world on the Motorcycle.   Motorcycle Traveler does the world! Vladimir was 69 years old, deaf, and has been to over 100 countries on his Bike!  Now that is a traveler!  David was right around the corner from the nicest part of the city which until just now, didn’t realize there was a nice part.

Free Sophia Tour

The tour started at 11am and about 36 English speaking people showed up from Switzerland, Portugal, England, Australia, and a nice lady from Montreal that David befriended.  She was in Sofia for 6 weeks to open an IKEA and train the staff.  “Free Sofia Tour”
split us into two groups and our guide started us off.  She was excellent and was a history major at Sofia University.  This was a volunteer organization but we all gave donations at the end of the tour which was 31/2 hours long.  It was hot but not to bad.  I would have never know all these places were right outside my door.  It was fascinating.

I returned to Confetti when I noticed they all have internet WiFi available.  I ran across the street and returned with my laptop to work on the blog.That didn’t work.  My computer didn’t recognize their Wi-Fi…maybe because I keep a Firewall when traveling and it was an Open network.  The food was great and I really felt like a King feasting on a fabulous Spinach and Ricotta Lasagna with a nice Malbec wine and a Coffee and Metaxa Cognac.When I returned to the Hostel, the bitch from hell owner was still lounging in front of the TV where I left her.  Then a man  I suspected as being a Muslim Mongolian accompanied by a young pretty Oriental Muslim came in to see MY room. I allowed it thinking they were considering it for tomorrow when I check out.  Then after they left , the bitch told me she may have rented the room for four people and if they decide to move in tonight, she would have to move me to the room across the hall!  I told her I was retiring early and had to get up early and was not moving.  Despite the fact she said anyone caught smoking in the hostel would be evicted immediatly..she lit up a cigarette and fumed with the fumes. I wanted to signal him that the room was hotter than hell but she kept an eye on me while showing the room.  She only cares about money but won’t spend any for a fan to make the room comfortable for the guests.  The assistant she had did my laundry today and pressed it all with an iron for me …all for $4.  I think she fired the assistant today and took over to save money. She got upset when I told her there was no toilet paper in the bathroom!  This was ranked on HostelWorld as one of the best.  I think she had her friends write in lies.  I will give her all F’s tomorrow when they send me my survey!

View from my window

David in Skopje

Entrance to ‘Closed Castle

The Hostel in Skopje provided the typical breakfast of cereal, bread, jam, diluted juice, instant coffee and an added bonus of boiled eggs cold.  David stayed in most of the day  then  headed for the Castle on the hill.  He was across the street taking photos when  he heard some one yell don’t bother going up there. David asked him why but couldn’t hear well and thought he said it just was not worth the trip.  David asked about the view and the man agreed the view was nice.  David told him that he came all the way up this far so would  go up anyway.  What the man was trying to tell him, was that the Castle was closed.  He found that out when the police turned him away from the main Gate.  David asked what was the reason it was closed and the guard replied “No reason”.  That was a little strange until later the owner of the Hostel explained the Albanian Muslims attacked the  Church in the castle as part of a protest about them being denied certain religious rights and  a major conflict developed around the Castle so they closed it down about two months ago .

The Bazzar was across the street so the afternoon was spent wandering around the stalls and through to the adjoining Flea Market then on to the bus station to get his ticket for tomorrow.  He forgot his passport so after walking for almost 4 hours decided to take a taxi to the City Hostel and return to get his ticket.  The Taxi driver was honest and friendly so after  he got the 8:30 am departure to Sofia , David was dropped at the main square for great coffee at the Triump Barrista Bar.  The London Bistro looked interesting and a change from where he ate yesterday but after waiting 5 minutes at a table he returned to the Hotel terrace where he ate the day before and had the same waitress serve him what had to be a pound of pork grilled and served with a cognac sauce. David had to stop at the Irish Pub for last call.   He found the same taxi driver that took him home the night before and returned to the Hostel.

There it was time to organize his photos and relax.  One of the Englishmen from Kent was still around and they chatted and compared photos.  The  owner bought them each a glass of wine and  David retired around 10 pm.

Arrangements had been made with the Taxi driver to pick him up at 7:30 and he did.  The bus was almost empty when  he boarded it .  Wow this would be the best bus ride so far!  While he was waiting in an outdoor cafe David noted that the same fly had followed him from Belgrade when he arrived.  These flys are agressive.  The more you swat them the more they attack you.  This one had been nipping at David’s heels to Zagreb, Split,, Kotor, Mostar, Tuzi, Kosovo, Skopje, but not Sofia.  David gave him the slip and pretended to get on one bus then quickly jumped on the other as it was leaving the station.  While at the outdoor Cafe he also noticed  the smell of cigarette smoke was everywhere in the Balkans even in the outdoor cafes.  7:30 this morning and half the tables had people drinking beer, brandy, wine, coffee and smoking cigarettes.  Every table had a pack of cigarettes on it and as for the booze…half these people were drunk.  This was not an uncommon scene.  We will see what Sofia, Bulgaria , the ninth country, has to offer. Damn…how did that fly get on board?

Bill Clinton in Kosovo

On trip to Macedonia

View from the window

While scoping the scene in Skopje…David discovered a train station that has a train to Greece where another connection point will get you the train to Athens…the whole trip takes around 11 hours but hey…it’s a train!  David wrote back to Kosta to see if a three day Host was OK .  That cuts it a little short but still allows time to see Athens.  Having Kosta as a guide makes that QUALITY time instead of time wasted on a guide book or city tour bus. Kosta already booked 3 days on the beach with his friends. Then another article turns up that all international trains run by the Greek government (kind of like Amtrak)  were cancelled in January 2011 due to the debt crisis.

David arrived on time by bus from Kosovo to Macedonia bus station and met with a “Chicago” Taxi driver that took him to an ATM to get some Macedonian dinars. David stupidly bought his “bull” and hired him to drive him 10 minutes for $8 to the Hostel.  Then the owner took him across the street to where he housed the Americans, like it was a favor.  It was a nice room but David couldn’t connect to the internet.  He explained it was necessary, so the owner made a big deal that he would have to move another couple over and give David their room .  David said …Just give me my money back and I will find a hotel in the center.  He said he could find a small room but it was hotter because it was on the top floor.  David didn’t like Hotter but after he hauled his bags up three flights for David and a fan was in the room…well OK.

 Then David discovered he couldn’t get a connection from the top floor so again the man took him to another room on the floor that his Mother lived.  No key but no worry…my Mother is next door …very safe…David said am I safe from your Mother?  There was no key and a balcony with no key and a wide open door.  OK…when in Rome.  He went to hang his clothes in the closet and found them full with 80 years worth of his Mother’s Clothes.  Well no one will try and steal anything here!

He had told the Taxi driver to pick him up at 5pm so left to wait on the patio.  There he met Ed from Melbourne. Ed bought a motorcycle from an Englishman in Lebanon and had been traveling everywhere.  He was young and too intelligent to just be a normal person.  Friendly enough so when 5 pm came and went but no Taxi showed , David put Ed in charge to inform the driver, should he show…David walked to the town.

It was pleasant enough but David was a bit disoriented so was looking at the signs and the map trying to figure out the general area when a voice called out…”Are you a Stranger here?”  Yes I am why do you ask?
Well I saw you looking at the Hospital and was worried you needed assistance.  There was a man wih a Buffalo Bills T-Shirt on so when he asked David where he was from David told him Buffalo…home of the Bills. The guy had no clue what the Buffalo Bills were…he was just wearing the TShirt.  David said he was trying to read the street sign to figure out where the famous Stone Bridge of 1416AD  was located.  The man said it was straight down the road and around the corner .  You will see the Statue of Alexander the Great and the Whole 9 yards..  David thanked him and sure enough found it all.

He walked around a Boulevard of Cafes and Monuments taking pictures when three Hyenas or Gypsy children approached him  with their sad looks and hands out.  They surrounded him and he sensed TROUBLE!  He strapped his camera around his hand and surveyed the situation. One was in front talking to him with his hand out another went behind and said nothing while the other kept getting closer and closer taunting him for money.  They were like Jackels and he knew he was in trouble when one distracted him and another touched his pocket…He yelled out to attract attention and said DO NOT TOUCH ME! GET AWAY!!!  Another person came over and started pushing the children out of reach but then he left and theý came back again.  Again David yelled and another person came to assist him…as he lashed out at one the other came from behind. They finally turned from needy Angels into venomous snakes and devils.  They drew spit and threatened to cover him as they surrounded him again.  He was about to yell Policia when another in the crowd came to his rescue though they seemed undaunted by anyone.  David ducked into a Cafe at a Hotel where by that time everyone was watching this happening…except the Polica.

 He had a Coffee and ate dinner and was planning to go over to the Bazzar across the bridge but was worried he might run into the same Gypsy gang again on their turf at night.  He went but only for a short time then took a Taxi back to City Hostel to meet with Ed the Aussie and two of his new friends from Kent England on holiday.  We discussed Liberia, Charles Taylor, Belarus, Russia, Afghanistan, Egypt everything…Ed knew people everywhere and was on top of everything. It was scary…I thought he was a Mercenary or M5 agent…even the English guys could not figure out how he knew EVERYTHING.

 The owner came over and offered us some home made Grappa or whatever they call the Homemade poison similar to our White Lighting.They invited me to travel into town.  I would have joined them in a second…twenty years ago…but was already for bed.  We committed to coffee around 11 am the next day.

Once upon a time there was a magic train that passed through Kosovo in the middle of the night.  It came from Germany then on the Athens and it stopped briefly in the night at what was the crossroads for trains coming from remote and distant places all over Asia and Europe. Voices could be heard in foreign languages unfamiliar, passports of all colors and countries, with strange clothes and dark shadows moving between trains in the night and then to disappear into the darkness and become quiet and empty again…until the next evening.  This was the Akropolis Express that was part of the Orient Express and transported people from Europe to Greece once a day and back again.

Then the War broke out in the ’90s the the train ceased, the station closed and never really reopened…but no one bothered to tell David. He had read travel stories and talked to people that were there before the war.  People that rode the train until they immigrated to the United States and now had no idea that it didn’t exist. The Akropolis Express was a Ghost Train now.

David couldn’t stand the thought of taking another all night bus or two to travel on to his destination in Greece.  He looked into all options. Even flights out of Pristina went everywhere but Greece…ferries may but he would have to return to where he came from and there were no trains from this area.  His only option , other than another bus was to cancel.  He wrote to Kosta in Greece who tried to help with his knowledge of bus routes.  He could return to Albania but having just been there he knew all the roads were under construction and a mess.  No options were appealing.  He had to take a bus to Skopje, Macedonia which was originally to be a day trip from here but now was the only way to get to Bulgaria.  The bus station here had only tour buses to Bulgaria and they went to Skopje anyway.  So he decided to take the time he would have spent in Greece and see Macedonia and Bulgaria properly before moving on to Istanbul. Kosta wrote him a very understanding email back.  David felt bad but hopefully there will be another time to visit Greece and Kosta.

His taxi driver took him to the local Kosovo Bus station then had to backtrack to the “International” one to get the schedule.  He will leave first thing in the morning for Macedonia and booked a hostel there for a couple days.  The laundry came back so David started packing. It was too hot to go out and only two Mosques to visit in the area that were of any interest.  They were some distance so he would have to take a Taxi again. Instead he would spend his time planning his brief stay in Skopje.  Ohrid was a fascinating town and the number one tourist attraction of Macedonia.  Alexander the Great’s father lived there I heard…four million years ago or there about. Better do some research to avoid any more Ghost’s!

 Kosovo has a headquarters here for the UN in this region.  It looks like a space ship converted to a bunker. Billboards warn that land mines have not been cleared and for people to stay away from the remote areas or country meadows.  The Hotel Victory had a replica of the Statue of Liberty on the roof overlooking Pristina. People asked me where I am from and when I reply the United States their eys light up and they greet me with a big smile.  The Hotel Grand made a point of sending over a Fresh Limonade I ordered and told me that it was on the House. Nice gesture.

Outside of Pristina are two World Heritage sites…both Mosques that I believe were built by the Ottoman Empire back the the 1500’s.  One is now a Nunnery but still needs to be protected by Swiss troops though  the general population go there to buy at the Market the Nuns operate with the bounty of their garden.  There is open hostility but I’m still not sure what it is about…something to do with the Serbs and the Muslims …maybe.   The Balkans civilization is ancient.  Their history is incredible but most of their Heritage is not being preserved  or restored.  Possibly because the former occupiers , the Soviet Union, didn’t give a damn and so for over 50 years all these historic sites and treasures were ignored and played down?  It is tragic.  Greece will sell off its treasures to pay for it’s EU membership and the loans it had to accept that it will NEVER pay back.  Everything will be privatized and sold to the highest bidder…and we all know how much they will get in a bankruptcy sale!  International Corporations are bribing politicians to cut deals and  the politicains are selling out the people in every country in the world.  I believe that.

It turns out to be all trains to and from Greece as of January 2011:Greece cut off as all its international trains cancelled from 2011
Due to its dire economic situation, the Greek government is implementing major cuts in the state-owned train service.

The very scenic main line Piraeus – Athens – Larissa – Thessaloniki line and (when completed) the new standard gauge line Athens – Korinthos – Patras both remain, but many branch lines close, including those to Olympia, Argos & Kalamata in thePeloponnese.

Most significantly, all international trains to and from Greece, meaning those linking Thessaloniki with Sofia, Belgrade, Bucharest and Istanbul are cancelled until further notice as from January 2011, effectively cutting Greece off from the rest of the European rail network. So much for being part of Europe, let alone part of the EU!

It will still be possible to take a train to Venice, Ancona or Bari then a ferry to Greece, but the overland rauil route looks to be cut, after over 100 years.o international trains arribed as ‘until further notice’ so there’s a glimmer of hope that they may one day be reinstated and The cut.s tGreece once more linked to the rest of Europe. But don’t hold your breath, the nightmare is here..

Highly Recommended Hotel Ideal in Podgorica

Boiled Potato and Stuffed Peppers in Salty Gravy

David waited at the hotel until around  7pm then took a taxi for 1.5 Euro to the bus station.  Looks like the “friendly” taxi driver David tipped so well…ripped him off big time.  It was a cool evening while he ate some stuffed peppers and had a coffee at the station.

One Hot Uncomfortable Bus

The bus arrived, was full and NOT Air Conditioned.  60 smelly sweaty coughing people on a Hot steamed up bus for almost 6 hours!  David was covered with sweat in 5 minutes with no where to go.  Captive…and he thought airplanes were cramped.  Less than 1/2 hour  down winding roads and the bus pulls over for a “smoke” break.  Everyone made a quick run to te bathroom and then stood there smoking.  David took advantage of the cool air to dry out again.  He was wearing the only clean clothes he had and they were soaked.  He noted the Muslim lady next to him was dressed in black with long sleeve Burka down to her ankles and silk head scarf.  If she could do it he could .She looked like she was ready to die. She never left the bus when they had bathroom breaks…there were no toilets on the bus and  when the bus did stop the facilities were stalls shared by both Men and Women with a hole in the floor and a hose to flush down.  Not all people took the time to flush…no toilet paper but use the hose. I think the lady next to me had a couple pair of Depends on under that tent.

 It was cooler outside that in the Bus.  David couldn’t figure out why they just didn’t open the roof vents and cool the bus down.  We were checked three times for our passports or work Visa.  Most of these passengers were migrant workers. Only about 15 passengers had Passports. The driver had to document all of the passengers, then the Montenegrean Police when exiting and finally the Kosovo Police when entering.

David managed some sleep.  The trip was not 6 hours but 8 hours! We entered Kosovo then most of the migrant workers got off along the way at various stops near their homes. When we arrived in Pristina it was around 5:30 am and there were only about 6 of us left!  You knew why when you saw this “Brown” city that smelled of burnt garbage,at least around the run down bus station, and revered Bill Clinton.  David used the ladies room then took a taxi to Velania Guesthouse through a maze of potholed streets up a mountain , down alleys and where the only life was an occasional prostitute coming back home from an night’s work.  The Taxi wanted 6 Euros but David said 5 knowing that the price quoted on the net was 3.

Bates Hotel

The entrance was unlocked but no office or anyone present.  He walked up to the top floor looking for some sign but nothing.  It reminded him of the Bates Hotel or now days, Vincent Tarantino’s “Hostel”, which I would not recommend to anyone planning to stay in a Hostel…especially in the Balkans.  David went back outside and noticed a stairway going down and around back with signs for Reception.  He followed them to a door with a hand written misspelled sign announcing Recepten. He rang the bell and a man in his underwear invited him in a hole in the wall smoke filled room with a plastic up full of water and cigarette butts.  There was some stale coffee on the dirty counter, TV was on “Snow” and a bed with a table in front was the desk.  David found a small stool to squat on while the man checked his passport and informed him it  be 48Euros instead of 36 because he was checking in early.  Of course…and the free laundry service?  You can use our facilities but may have to wait as there is only one washer for all the Hostel.  I walked back up to the top floor where my room was shown to me.  A shared bathroom was outside my door and next to that a shared kitchen with instant coffee 24/7.  David went to sleep then woke at Noon, showered and paid the maid 5 Euros to do all his wash while he went out to find a ATM and some bottled water.

Bill Clinton Welcoming all to Pristina

PS  Did I mention the room has no Air-Conditioning…or Fan!  Some things are scarce in this part of the world; electricity, A/C, toilet paper, toilets, ice, Cafes that serve ANY food at all (Coffee-shops serve small espresso or large espresso, booze and soda…no snacks or food), wastebaskets, Lattes (my problem), laundries, restaurants that DON’T serve Pizza, Restaurants, and any place that provides change when you give them money.

Ready to go Mike?

Mike’s Neighborhood

…and this is all MINE!

The local Coffee House

Look Sharp Son!

Mike showed up at 6pm and wanted to stop for coffee after showing me his property. We went to the coffee shop across from his house.  There we met one of his neighbor cousins. Then we went  over to his house so he could get ready for the wedding.  His son came in from playing basketball, took a shower and had his suit on.  Mike gave David one pair of his dress shoes to wear while he showered. The shoes fit fine and when Mike was getting dressed he asked David to tie his tie.  He can afford $100 tie but can’t tie it.  We were ready when his other son showed and we loaded the car and headed for the Dinner party.

Welcoming the Bride

Our Table with Food

I’m full

Mike with his sister’s from California and David

The Music and Dance Begins

The actual wedding was the day before and David was excused from that.  It was hot and also outdoors in the afternoon sun.  This evening was a full moon, and very pleasant .  We arrived and went through the Groom’s welcome line and were seated at one of the honored tables for family. The food started arriving before all the guest had.  Drinks and Appetizers.  Vodka, Grappa, Wine, Soda or Beer were offered.  Platters of fresh sliced Tomatoes, Cukes, Peppers, Cold Cuts, Chicken Salad, Chicken Livers, Cheeses, and Breads were laid out.   The rest of the guests arrived and finally the Bride arrived and anyone in the Groom’s family followed her in a procession  down the Red Carpet to the Head Table where she was seated with her husband .  Some welcoming speeches by the Patriarchs of the families as well as the Bride and Groom then the music  and dancing started.  It was like Bollywood production with loud trace like Arabic or Greek music.  Men with Men , Women with Women and Couples together .  There were lines of dancers as well as people just moving with the music.  The music NEVER stopped until it was time for dinner to be served.  Then platters of Lamb, Chicken, and Beef were presented along with a pickeled cabbage slaw and more fresh vegetables.  Desserts were Sweet Cakes soaked in Honey, Bacalava, Watermelon and trays of assorted fresh fruit.  Then Fireworks and another procession to give cards with money to the waiting Bride and Groom.  Finally dancing while people started home…it was 3:30 am when we got to my hotel.  I thanked Mike and we agreed to see  each other again in New River.  I took more movies than Photos so this blog  may seem a let down until I figure out how to get the movies on to it.

The power went off this afternoon while David was using the internet to upload his web album of the wedding, his blog and above all to let the Hostel know he would arrive in Pristina early in the morning so they would be expecting him.  He could spend the  early morning in the bus station for 4 hours.  He decided to pay the bill of 99Euros…a little more than expected.  He needed some more cash for the bus and the hostel wanted cash when he arrived.  He used the ATM across the street to get 100 Euros…issued in two 50’s. He stopped at the market to get some snacks to take on the Bus…3 Euros so he gave the cashier a 50.  Well around the Balkans no one has change!  This was a supermarket with 3 butchers behind the meat counter, a stocker, two cashiers and two other behind a deli. The Cashier got all upset and had to lock her register and go to the office safe to get change for a 50.  It was her attitude that I have seen before.  This arrogant uncaring , why are you making me work attitude that doesn’t make you want to return to the Balkans.  I see people, including Mike, just throw their empty plastic bottles or trash on the ground or out the window of the car.  Cigarettes especially.  They are in awe of people with money or power.  Big fast cars and fancy house impress them.  Fancy clothes makes them feel more important that the rest.  I can travel in Asia where people are very poor but kind and considerate of others and their surroundings. Their they thank you and smile!