David Taylor

January 23, 2007July 18, 2023

PANAMA CITY TO FORT CLAYTON

Well, this evening was interesting. I ventured to the Veneto Casino and after perusing the Poker room I decided on a Texas Hold-em game at a table where you put up an Ante then bet on whether you were going to beat the dealer and bet double the Ante. Also you could deposit a dollar when you put up you Ante to bet whether the flop matched you two cards to win. If that happened , you would win a bonus depending on what the hand was…a flush, full house or even an Ace of Spades would return you a bonus regardless of whether you beat the dealer or not. If you didn’t bet and felt you had a losing hand then you lost your Ante only. A Mining Engineer from Augusta , Georgia was next to me with his team on the other side. They were mining Panama for gold and had to fly the equipment into the jungle to dredge the rivers along the Mosquito Coast . I was winning so stayed with the game until I started losing but felt a winning streak coming on so went to the ATM machine and returned to get beat down by a lucky dealer. Back and forth I went until I lost over $400 then called it quits. I decided to return by cab but the driver wanted $10 when the going rate was $2. I walked. I decided to take a “short cut” but I noticed I was in a dark area with nobody around. I took out my wallet and removed my credit cards along with the driver’s license, Medicare card, Insurance card and $100 dollars I managed not to spend and put them in different pockets just in case I was robbed. Within a few minutes my shortcut proved right and I ended up back on my block.

I decided to have the twin tenderloin steak dinner for $10 at the local restaurant around the corner. Being almost the only customer at 12:30 at night I sat outside on the patio and placed my order for Steak and Scotch. Two Scotches’ later my Steak arrived and at the same time an invite to join a young couple behind me on the patio. I jumped at the chance and joined Huny and Carolina for a conversation that lasted until 4:30 am and a few Scotches. We Huny’s family is in construction and are developing a lot of these Hi Rises. He was sidetracked with a Cocaine addiction that cost him Carolina’s love. Now, a year later she is starting to date him again and giving him a chance but as of now, she only remembers him the way he used to be. She is in Marketing and Real Estate and sells a lot of the condos his parents build. Both of them were born in Panama. She has a ear disease that affects her balance and makes her violently sick. She may have to go to California for special operation or she will lose her ability to function. This is a rare disease and the doctors here haven’t been able to help. Her family went to Breckenridge, Colorado on a ski trip but she had to stay in the lodge.It was what I came to Panama for. Huny gave me the number and name for his family Dentist to take care of my toothache. Both gave me their phone numbers if I needed a ride or wanted advice. They were very genuine people with a big heart. I hope to meet more Panamanian people from all walks of life.

I returned to Anita’s. crashed and awoke to major construction just outside my window. After closing the window, putting in my ear plugs, and returning to bed, I awoke at 2pm with my alarm going off since 1 pm. A shower with no hot water (you have to go upstairs for that) was welcomed. Joseph, the manager called the Dentist and arranged an appointment for the next day at 10 am. I only hope I awake in time so I won’t put in my earplugs tonight.

I walked over to the pharmacy to buy some forgotten razors that I didn’t pack as well as a script for my testosterone and chantex. I got the razors and a blank look. Then I hiked back to the Casino area (with my back turned) to find the Marbella Hotel to book a room for the month. $45 was the best I found…times 30 is over my limit so decided to leave Boca Del Toro and head for Boquetta in the North before returning to the hotel I booked the first day I arrived. I would catch the tail end of the Carnival Celebration and have time to find something in this area or I could stay where I was if it wasn’t too seedy.

I found out I had to visit immigration a week or two before my 30 day tourist card ran out in order to extend it. You have to arrive early in the morning and get in line with the Colombian prostitutes and plan on spending the day there unless you hire someone for $20 to guide you through. The immigration office was close to the hotel I had booked so decided to keep the reservation.

As for my trip to Fort Clayton, I was told it is in the middle of no where and bring food and booze for three days.

I did have dinner of Panamanian Paella at the Trapechi before returning to Anita’s for drinks with my American and Canadian friends that have been living here for months. Dentist tomorrow so bed tonight.

I awoke to the construction so didn’t need an alarm. The Argentina breakfast at the Trapechi was excellent. A Taxi took me to the Dentist for $1.25 and it was full of Panamanians. There were three Dentists that worked the clinic and I had made an appointment with Juan Carlos Diaz who was a young but very personable English speaking Doctor. He recommended a through cleaning and explained that I was suffering from Gingivitis and needed and antibiotic mouthwash as well as a special toothpaste. He cleaned my teeth with a high pressure water pick then took an ex-ray to be sure there was no decay or infection. It was $25 for the cleaning and $5 for the ex-ray.

I then stopped at the Euro Hotel to get a price of $38.50 a night before taking a $1.25 cab back. I stopped at the Trapiche for a Tropical Fruit Milkshake make with fresh Pineapple that was excellent. When I arrived at Anita’s, she was waited to move me to an air-conditioned dorm room just for me on the upper level. I asked about returning here in February but was told it was booked. Joe and I watched the rain from the balcony then ventured out to eat.

That evening I went for the tenderloin dinner with Joe from Seattle and Jim the retired Merchant Marine. Joe had worked with the FBI and was trained as a private investigator but had bought lots of property when he was young in the Seattle area and was now just selling off parcels and living off his smart investments. This was his second time in Panama and knew quite a few developers and Real Estate people. He was returning to Washington to develop a ranch in Eastern Washington that he planned on living at and retiring at 45 years old. We returned and had a few drinks on the balcony before retiring. I plan on sleeping in tomorrow and my tooth now feels great.

I slept in …and in …and in until the smell of bacon woke me at 11:30am. Last night I remember a vivid dream where my father walked in. He appeared disheveled with his tie messed up (something you never saw) but his expression was one of understanding (something you never saw). He asked me sincere questions (something he seldom did). Unfortunately that is all that stood out in the dream. Now I’m checking my email on my laptop at the New York Bagel Company while enjoying a breakfast sandwich and the Sunday morning parade of beautiful people…one in particular!

My bags were packed and I caught a taxi to Fort Clayton but my directions weren’t all that good. The taxi driver, with his girlfriend in the front, stopped at the gate to ask the guard directions but went off in the wrong direction and had to stop two more times. He tried to kick me out at an address that looked like the one I gave him but I refused and while he was unloading my bags, I approached a couple and asked them. They pointed around the corner and up the street so I asked him to repack my things and return. It was about three blocks away and he wanted $10 when he finally dropped me off.

On entering the hostal, the desk clerk refused Visa and directed me to an ATM machine on a map he issued all new check-ins. It was 4pm and HOT outside. The road was uphill and I was in a sweat within 10 minutes but kept at it. A mile or two later I saw a policeman on a motorcycle and flagged him down. I showed him the map and he explained it was another mile and a half without offering me a ride on the back of his bike. Another quart of sweat later I encountered an old man with his grandchildren playing in a makeshift pool and wanted to ask if I could join them. His daughter spoke good English and the Cafe was only a short distance. When I arrived the waitress offered me some water as soon as she saw me. I had three glasses before I noticed the ATM machine so ordered a Coffee and roll then discovered it was broke and there weren’t anymore for another 3-4 miles further down the road.

Exhausted I walked out and flagged the only taxi I had seen all day to return to the Hostel empty handed. I explained that I would take a taxi or walk to the Mira Flores Locks in the morning when it was 5% cooler to visit the museum, lunch and get some money from their ATM machine to pay the hostal and buy some food. Food was something I forgot and the Cafe only had muffins. Nicolas, a Colombian young man who interpreted to my Panamanian Desk Clerk offered me any of the food he had and a beer. I told him I might have a banana later just to satisfy my appetite and thanked him.

My computer hooked up to the Internet beautifully and I have the best connection since I arrived. Now it is time to test my Magic Jack free phone calls to anywhere in America or Canada from anywhere in the world. I called Mom three times before I realized I had to turn my headphones on. Mom sounded great over the phone. I was having so much fun using this free service I called Chris in Phoenix to find out how she was.

Later I joined the crowd on the back patio. It is almost a full moon and this area is quiet. I joined Nicolas

, Kim from Seoul Korea and ran a cement plant…just back from Guatemala where he saw two people shot dead on the streets in Guatemala City…Antonia

from Chicago now living in NYC that took some great photos for me and Mirko

from a small village East of Koln Germany. He had been an exchange student in Dayton,Ohio when he was 16 and spoke fluent English. He had hiked across the tundra near Cape Horn in Chile, camped there naked and been just about everywhere. He was a Landscape Designer in Germany. The lady was working on her PHD in English education and Nicolas was a Computer Guru as well as an Economist who had lived in Madrid, Barcelona, and Rome. We decided to have a contest to see if anyone could determine the difference between Heineken and Budweiser.

I jumped on that and was the only one that blindfolded could tell which was which. I think that is because they already when through a case of beer before I arrived.

Santiago joined us but never learned where he was from or going. I’m supposed to hike to Mira Flores tomorrow morning with the Korean to spend the day., saw the movie, had a $30 lunch at the fancy buffet restaurant. The lunch was first class and we stuffed ourselves. Then we visited the ATM machine, negotiated a cab, stopped for some beer and food, then arrived back around 1pm.

The landscapers instead of construction workers woke me up this morning mowing the lawn outside my window. After another cold shower, it was 9am so I looked for Kim to go with me to the Mira Flora Locks and Museum. Al introduced himself in the lobby and offered a ride to the Café and we took it. A nice breakfast sandwich and coffee started the day and we started walking to the locks. It was hot…always during the day…as we sweat our way out of Fort Clayton and into Mira Flora Locks. Kim and I talked on the way. He runs a Cement Plant near Seoul, Korea and has been traveling for two months. He flew into Toronto , then traveled by bus to Buffalo, Rochester, Boston, NYC, Washington, D.C. then flew to Mexico City and on to Havana, Cuba. He returned from Havana via Guatemala City before arriving in Panama. Next week he goes to Lima, Peru to see Machu Pichu, then a bus to Brazil, etc .etc. He is in his early 30’s, has a good education and a good job. He told his Mother he now wanted to travel around the world and she said he was crazy. She suggested he find a nice woman, marry and giver her grandchildren. He said that it is such an obsession with Koreans to keep a close knit family, it puts pressure on him all the time. When I travel, I enjoy everything so much.

We purchased our tickets and did the tour(Panama sure has some big bugs)

, then we had a great buffet lunch with a cold salad table, and rows of hot items, then of course , the dessert table. We walked back through the old Ft Clayton before taking a taxi back. We stopped to stock up on beer and food.

I offered to pay the $90 I owed for the room and the desk clerk handed me a bill for $110. I already gave a deposit but nowhere did it day anything about a 10% high season surtax. I argued with the clerk until he just threw up his hands and said…OK leave. So I paid him.

Now I’m on the Internet browsing my email and get one of those nasty emails from “one of the guys”. When I open the attachment, porn web sites start popping up as fast as I can close them. Then the whole site shuts down and my computer is singled out from the network and I can’t get on the computer the rest of my stay. I go to use the one computer in the lobby. I guess I will catch up on my reading the next two days.

We all share a few beers and some food and I retire early to discover…I’m back on the Internet. See y’all tomorrow.

I arose early in hopes that Al was going to go to the Cafe again and could give me a lift but he was gone. Just Mirko, Nicolas, and myself were left. I started my walk for breakfast and a taxi showed up…yeah. I sat down in a booth at the restaurant , ordered breakfast then visited the Bano to freshen up. When I returned, someone was sitting in my seat and reading my magazine! He was an expat American living in Panama. There are a LOT of them. He apologized and returned my magazine. I found another booth had breakfast and went for a walk. I took a few photos of the old barracks, bought some supplies, hailed a taxi and returned to spend the afternoon reading and playing on the computer. Nicolas was leaving to move to Panama City and Mirko went with him to buy some beer. I choose to relax. I’ll have a few beers tonight with Mirko and both of us fly out in the morning. Mirko is flying to David early and I am flying to Boca Del Toro later in the afternoon. See you in Boca!

January 14, 2007July 18, 2023

PANAMA CITY PANAMA

Five-thirty in the morning is new to me but I was packed and ready when Don (Shangri La) showed up at my door to drive me to the Phoenix airport for my departure to Miami then on to Panama City, Panama. It was chilly and dark as I loaded my one carry on bag with my computer on the side into Don’s truck. He made good time and I was at the American
Airlines counter at 6:30 for my boarding pass, through security, and having breakfast by 6:45.…two more hours before departure. I wanted to sleep. I did on the way to Miami with a row of seats to myself.

The view while landing at the airport was not of the Atlantic beaches I expected but I could see the rows of skyscrapers and hotels that bordered the beach in the distance. Phoenix could take a lesson from the food concessions in Miami. I started with some great Cuban coffee and pastry (Guava and Cheese). It would be three hours before boarding so I would pass the time people watching and reading Joyce Major’s travel book, “Smiling at the World”. That is easy to do in this multi lingual, multi cultured airport. Spanish is spoken a LOT. The departure schedule reflects that…Cartagena, Caracas, Bogota, Panama City, Rio, Havana…I wish I could live here and just fly to a different Country every other month until I’d experienced them all, but until then I’ll just observe
their citizens.

The flight to Panama was non eventful as was the $30 taxi ride to the City. The heat was welcome after 15 hours of air-conditioned airports and planes…the humidity wasn’t. It is a dry heat in Phoenix and that is what my body is accustomed to. The taxi driver dropped me at the Hotel Residencia Texas and I met a drunk man from San Diego that
told me not to worry about safety. He had been here a year and invited me to stop at Fernando’s for a drink. I unpacked in my 3rd floor walk-up room and ventured out to Fernando’s.

The streets aren’t well lit and prostitutes, drug dealers and bums are everywhere, including my new found “friend” and his pals at Fernando’s. It was a pleasant bar with an outdoor patio on the street and full of Panamanians as well as Gringos. I met them all including Johanna. She offered me a massage and I bought her a Corona. We chatted then after helping me order a sandwich she left to find a paying customer. Only five

minutes away and $20 but I didn’t want to let the jet lag get the better of me. She was gorgeous, young and personable. Her American friend Tilly owned a bar in Mexico and Key West before taking his boat from St Augustine to Panama City and falling in love with Panama. Tilly lives in a big high rise condo with a roof top pool for $500 a month and knows the “local” whorehouses” where you can fuck “Pamela Anderson” for $30.
He will take me there as you never go alone to the local places. His friend John bought and sold property in San Carlos Mexico and in Boca Del Toro Panama. “Irish” came here three years ago and bought a property in the ghetto. He renovated it into a nice three story home but no one else did so he was the only one in the Ghetto with such a
nice home and locals took note. Three times they busted his door in and one time threatened him with a knife to which he replied with a Machete and then sold out.

Marijuana can be smoked on the street and someone offered me some when on the way home to eat my sandwich, but I just kept going. I couldn’t bring myself to eat the sandwich of all bread, American cheese , dried ham and I have no idea what the sauce was. Plenty of time to enjoy Panama after a good nights rest in my $16 a night air-conditioned , hotel with cable that includes a porno station. I left the air-conditioner on when I arrived but now the room was chilly and there were no blankets but just two sheets. I later discovered that all rooms came with 2 sheets and no blankets.

I had a restless nights sleep. The mattress and pillows had a “musty”
odor with a hint of urine.

I awoke about 8 am as the room was now getting hot. The air-conditioner has only two setting….high cold or off. I heard of a place around the corner that served food 24/7 and headed there. It was an open air cafeteria that was packed with people eating and chatting. I passed by a “refresca” drink station where fresh fruit drinks were made to order. I can live off of those. I expected to see all kinds of breakfast
items on the buffet at 9am but it was all Panamanian meats, chicken, fried corn bread, fried bananas, fried polenta, fried fried, rice, empanadas, those things wrapped in banana leaves, stews, gravies, and things I didn’t recognize.

I told her to give me what the woman in front of me ordered. I paid the $1.65 for my plate full of food and coffee. I found a comfortable table when I realized what I thought was beef stew was all pieces of liver or heart or kidney. It had the texture and looks of liver. If I didn’t have to look at it or think about it, it would have been delicious. The coffee and fried cornbread was great.

The Acapulco next door was serving breakfast when I sat down at the counter and ordered fresh orange juice, cafe, and ham and eggs. After two café leches. I paid my $6 and left to check out hotel prices. The Acapulco was $28 and the one next to it was $20 but both appeared to be full for the month of February.

After a brief siesta, a taxi took me to Anita’s Inn where I was to spend the next three nights before moving to Fort Clayton where my Dad had been stationed in the US Army 33rd Infantry Regiment from 1935-1941 before being sent to the war in the Pacific. I think I’m going to like Panama.

I thought it best to book a room for 10 days at the $20 Hotel so I will have something to return to after visiting Boca del Toro. Crossing the streets in Panama City is dangerous. They are all mostly one-way so you only have to look in one direction but the streets can be four lanes and there are no stop signs or traffic lights on most of them. I was
looking for the traffic to slow or go by, I noticed a small black cat under the car parked next to me. He waited patiently watching the traffic until it passed then darted across four lanes. Who said cats are dumb?

I hailed a Taxi and he drove quite a distance then dropped me right at the restaurant Trapiche near Anita’s. He asked for $2 and I knew it was $1 too much but I liked him and gave him $3. The directions said the Anita was right down the street 150 meters. Well that is a football field and a half in length but before I went that far the street met another and I didn’t see any building that looked like an Inn. I went around the corner
and was heading back up the other street when a torrent of rain broke through the skies.
I took cover under an awning with another man, also waiting for something. I inquired as to the direction of Anita’s but he spoke no English. He ran inside the building and returned with his 7 year old shy son and explained he studied English and might be able to help. He was very nervous while I questioned him. He had spoke English in school
and was studying it but never had a situation one on one with a Gringo. His father was proud and he wanted to prove to his father he could do this but between my hearing and the street traffic and sirens, we couldn’t communicate. The boy ran into the building and returned with his mother. She motioned me over and held the door open while I talked into an intercom with a neighbor upstairs that spoke English. I told her the directions I had and she instructed me to go back to the street, make a
right then another right by the restaurant. That is where I just was! I thanked her and noticed the rain was subsiding so decided to have a Coke across the street in a café until it stopped. I was getting ready when the man came up to me and offered , with his wife and son to drive me there in the rain! I declined and after my Coke the rain stopped and I took off again.

When I arrived at the main street I decided it was best to ask the local shop owners as they did business with Anita’s guests and would probably know. I stopped into a bakery to ask the owner and her husband. They had no idea but noted a couple of gringos that spoke English at a corner table might help. I approached the three of them and inquired as to the location of Anita’s and one turned and wanted to know if I had reservations and what my name was….his wife was Anita. I had walked right by the place before but this time he phoned ahead and Anita was sitting on the step to check me in and show me around.

I met a few of the guests, Jim and Ron I think. They are travelers and have been here some months as well as having spent time in Venezuelan last year. We talked for a while about where to eat , gamble, drink and the sites to see in Panama. They were a great help though it was hard to hear them over the din caused by the construction right across the street…which is right across from my room. It appears Panama City

is both under destruction and construction. It is everywhere. I think there is still money to be made here. Retiring to my un air- conditioned room, I quickly put on my shorts, short sleeve shirt and sandals. Now I’m ready to roll

Strolling through the neighborhood the New York Bagel Company caught my attention. There is internet access, bagels and good coffee. I will return. The Trapiche offered an open patio to sip a beer and browse the menu. Joe and another from Anita’s sat nearby devouring a great meal at a cheap price. I will return. Back at Anita’s, I dressed for an evening at the Veneto Casino with long trousers and shoes.
Good luck David!

September 26, 2006October 27, 2018

2006 SEPTEMBER: SLOVAKIA RETURN TO AMSTERDAM

SLOVAKIA

Thurs: Observation: Not a lot of sit down bars. The bars have tables where people sit together but few “bars” to sit at if your by yourself. Most people arrive or meet friends to drink with.

I emailed 5 SERVAS Hosts to meet and advise me on what and where I should be going to enjoy Slovakia. Only Sonika responded with a meeting but not until Sunday. Two others said they were busy.

I started with a bad impression, was tired and returned to the room for a few Vodkas.

Fri: That evening I started getting sick….and sicker…real fast. I took all the meds I had, hot tea with honey….slept on and off with a fever and chills…

Sat: Breakfast and back to bed…that afternoon I had to get meds so walked to local shops where the front desk directed me. Bad language barrier and I didn’t walk far enough and couldn’t find anything that resembled a pharmacy. I took the Bus to the centre bought what I thought were cold pills but just cough drops. The other medicine was drops you put in your water and drank. That was a mild antihistamine I think. Again I drank tea and stayed in bed.

Sun: Breakfast and front desk gave me a message to meet Sonika at 3pm that afternoon in front of the Presidential Palace. Stayed in bed until 1:30pm then took the bus with my Meds to show Sonika.

She had the same cold I did and gave me some of her Meds and explained the ones I had. We laughed that maybe I caught the cold from her over the internet. We walked around the gardens then she recommended we meet her sister Zora…another SERVAS host. She said Zora didn’t want to meet us in the garden because the last time she joined her with another SERVAS traveler, her dog died and she just got another from the animal rescue shelter but doesn’t want to risk losing that dog.

We met at the bus stop and I was impressed with her. She was attractive and VERY fit with her hiking boots and jeans. The dog would nip at anyone and barked at everything. We boarded the bus for a nearby town in the Carpathian Mountains. I thought I can handle a little hike and it is probably good for me. Sonika was NOT fit, overweight, balding and in poor health. Both her and her sister transcribe documents from Russian to English. Sonika works for the state and Zora works as an independent contractor. We stopped at an outdoor Café to have a beer, a BIG BEER, before starting the hike. They also had wine cider which is only at this time of year and very special. We climbed this mountain overlooking the Danube with Austria on the other side. There were watchtowers the Soviets used and of course barbed wire fences. We then proceeded to hike a trail through the woods along the summit to the next mountain and so on. It was getting dark around the time we arrived an hour and a half later on the other side at this famous castle, now in ruin. Zora had hiked along the river for 5 hours the day before. I tried to use the bathroom at this tourist spot that sold stale sandwiches, drinks and postcards but the proprietor wouldn’t let me. We took the bus back to Bratislava then walked through the street while they explained to me the different sites and what it was like during the Russian occupation…all fenced in. She told me about her son and his ambitions. How he earned a scholarship to U of British Columbia and is in his first year. He hopes to transfer to Princeton and loves Cowboy hats. I took them for tea at an outdoor sidewalk café, then we parted. I walked back to my bus stop to return to the Hotel 7 hours later….I slept well that evening.

I did my own walking tour of Bratislava the next day that took me up a hill to a castle overlooking the city and river. I did a few churches, lunch at a Viennese Café, hot Chocolate at a Chocolate House, a few museums and finally a few pints. I had wished I rented a car and drove around the countryside while in Slovakia but really don’t think I missed much. I hope to visit Slovania this year which I’ve been told is much nicer than Slovakia, which is still being run by Communist lackies left over from the Soviet Union. Bribes and mafia.

I made arrangements to take Sonika to a Slovakian restaurant that she recommended and I had heard about. Old wooden tables, high ceilings, pasta stuffed with cabbage and a hearty soup but mostly broth. Beer. Then we walked to a wine bar where we had the wine cider that is so popular at that time of year. I bid goodbye and flew to Amsterdam on Oct 5th , my birthday.

Took the train from Schiphol into the Centre and then hopped the tram to Jeannette’s.

I arrived to a bouquet of yellow roses, wrapped presents to include Men‘s Cologne, Dutch Chocolate Bar, Rum filled Chocolate Kisses, a book on Holland, and my Hash I left from the last visit with a glass of red wine to accompany it. Then they took me out to dinner at a really nice restaurant in the neighborhood. Lovely Birthday with my Lovely Special Friends!!

The next day I had a nice lunch at my favorite Coffee & Jazz Indonesian Restaurant on Utrechtsestraat…the first restaurant I ate at with David Lavington my first time back in Amsterdam in 1987.

Good to be back home in Amsterdam.