Author: David Taylor

          The sunlight woke me after a fairly sound sleep.  I thought it had to be seven or maybe later.  John said he would wake me so I never set my alarm because he was so punctual everymoring rising to teach school.  This was his day to sleep in so I thought he overslept and I was late.  I had everything ready to go so brushed my teeth , washed my hair, dressed and then bid him good bye.  There are NO clocks in the house…not even the microwave.  He looked startled and said I thought you weren’t leaving until 7:30….I thought is was 7:50 already but forgot to change my suitcase clock from Seoul …it was 6:50…I thanked him and decided to have breakfast at the airport.  Saturday morning there was hardly any traffic and I got a taxi as soon as I stepped out the door.

      The driver dropped me at the entrance of Terminal 2 where David, the tour operator said the Koryo Air office was.  I first decide to orient myself so when our scheduled meeting at 8:45 happened I would be there.  I could not find it.  I asked David directions the day before and instead of : Just inside of entrance 4 on the right….what I got was:  It is a small terminal, you won’t have a problem.  I walked the entire terminal on both sides and both floors while asking two different information booths and numerous people, security, ticket agents, and shop owners.  No body knew but one information girl recognized the name Air Koryo and checked the flight list and informed me that my plane departed gate 3 at 10:30.  I knew that but how do I get a boarding pass without a ticket.

                  Breakfast gave me a chance to calm down and think about my plan of action.
Terminal 2 was divided in two sections.  There was Domestic and International.  I saw other tour groups arriving by bus so just waited at the entrance in the International area…it was now 8:50 and no David the tour leader.  Finally they came in like “well what’s the problem”.  I got in line with the rest and we waited and waited to get our boarding passes.  Then the flight was scheduled to board at 10:30 but changed to 10:40.  When we were seated at around 11 pm the runway was backed up with over six planes waiting….but wait …our plane wasn’t ready to join the line.  We still had a whole group of new passengers boarding.  It was a full plane when we took off around Noon for a ninety minute flight to Pyongyang the capital of DPRK.

             John arrived and we were off to dine on Peking Duck that.  It was raining a little when we left but the very nice restaurant was nearby.  We were seated and ordered the Duck and two vegetable side dishes.  The waitress has a  small computerized order device that looks like a smartphone and just touches a key everytime we mention what we want.  I had a beer and but wanted wine. They brought me white lighting 112% proof poison in a small  bottle so I mixed it with the beer.  I think I was drunk after the second glass of beer.  The cook brought out the duck and carved it at the table. He served a platter of sliced FRESH Duck that was exqusite as were the  accompanying vegetables and side dishes with sauce that went with the Duck.  
      We  returned home are retired early. It was a very nice end to a wonderful day.  Tomorrow I hope to visit the National Museum and explore the Hutongs on my own…then have to pick up my North Korean Visa at the tour agency and meet the people I will be traveling with.
      When I awoke this morning I had an alert to call Bank of America.  They put a hold on my card until I clarified why there was a large charge from Arizona and from Beijing on the same day.  Very reasonable request.  I called on Skype, spent 10 minutes explaining everything  to the Merrill Lynch represenative then to the Visa Representative all over again with account numbers, security verifications, etc. Then I was disconnected so called again to get a robo recording. Three attempts later I finally reconnected with Visa and explained everything again.  It was taken care of after a half hour on the phone.  Now I will go to a museum and on to pick up my North Korean Visa at the tour agency and meet my group.  There will be an orientation and then we meet at our departure point in the airport tomorrow at 11am.  Then I just follow orders for the next 5 days.  Everything is taken care of…as it should be for $450 a day.

           It was a sunny day though rain was forcast.  I decided I could visit a museum if it rained so took a taxi to the subway with the intentions of going a different route and exiting at the Hutongs.  Alley ways that intertwine between main street and where people live as well as run businesses out of thier homes. I visited the Hutongs the day before but they were all modern and populated with wealthy people with Mercedes and underground parking.  The tourist take rickshaws at crazy prices on tours of the Hutongs.  I decided to explore on my own.  Unfortunatley…the taxi driver who said he knew where I wanted to go, drove right past the subway stop.  I yelled to him and he explained something about circling around so I thought there was no left turn or something and he had to go down and around. Then after he did do a U Turn he darted down a side street and jumped on an expressway.  When I showed him the map and he understood he was mad at me…so I said OK you’ve gone this far just keep going and let me off at the next subway stop I would have exited anyway.  He did and it was cheap but I got off to early and found the Hutongs but was lost in them and went around in circles until it was nearly noon. These seemed to be a mix of old and new. Then I came upon a shop that I recongnized at one that I wanted to go to for Umbrellas.

They are made of oil skin and wood.  Handpainted and very beautiful and fairly priced.  I already spent my souviener budget yesterday on paintings I never really planned on buying but broke down and spent another $100 wondering how I was going to get this stuff home.  Fortunatly I don’t have to lug it around but can leave it at John’s house until I depart for Phoenix.  I didn’t want to lug it around Beijing though and I had to make the orientation at 2 pm so decided to take a taxi home and drop it then return to the subway for the meeting.
        I  tried to get a taxi to the subway like I didn’t do this morning, none of the Taxi’s said they recognized the name I gave them.  The map, I walked all the way to the Beijing Five Star hotel to get, fell out of my pocket when I departed the last taxi and was gone.  I walked to the subway and took off for the transfer spot to get to the Tour orientation.  The transfer to the other subway to connect to the line was a 20 minute walk through the tunnel. I finally got on the line to the tour group and exited.  The map they gave me said it was right down the street…yeah…about a mile.  I made it just in time to find out it was another 30 minute wait.  I had my second cup of coffee and a muffin at 2pm …my first food of the day.  The orientation was interesting but with 36 attendees and all the stupid questions, it dragged on until after 4pm.  I did meet my roommate and we agreed to try and get seats together on out early flight tomorrow.  The flight had been cancelled and changed to an Iranian airplane dated 1962 and two hours earlier.

  I returned and around 6:30, John and I went out for dinner. I visited the ATM to get more money. I returned home to find a flag on my other account with E Trade.
     When I called,a forgien call center answered.  I responded to security questions about my former employer…me….where my ex of 18 years was living…didn’t know or care….which street presented did I live on…none of them …all security questions generated by a third party…what the hell does that mean.
        I requested to speak to someone in the USA.  Legally they have to do that. This cuts employment overseas and increased employment in the USA.  The US supervisor had everything resolved in 5 minutes but overall it took 30 minutes
      I am packed and will take a Taxi to the airport to meet up with the group at the Koryo Tour desk.
It will be a better day tomorrow.

       I found my way to the center and was approached by two English speaking Chinese. One was a professor of Art and taught painting and caligraphy.  The other, his student, spoke very good English and explained they had a government sponsered art exhibition and would I like to see it…free. OK.  It was watercolors and oil on silk.  There were different mediums and different artists.  They were students of the Art Professor.  He also had work there.  Most but not all of it was for sale.  Ah Ha…now the truth comes out.

Student Observing  The Master

         Well when your traveling and you see something you like…you should just buy it.  You may never see it again.  I did, since my home is decorated in Oriental style with souveniers from around Asia…why not add some more.  My only concern is lugging all those packages around and back to the US. I finally bought 4 pieces and they took credit cards.  Then I saw an oriental nude that would go well in my bedroom so ended up buying that.  I got my name done in Calligraphy which was free but then for $17 I could get it on a wall hanging with a red background…just like my home.  In the end I think I spent close to $400.
           Then the professor asked my plans and I replied tour the Forbidden City… I could be your guide for another $35.  Sure why not.  I remember having a personal guide in Istanbul and it really did enhance the experience. I actually learned something at the same time.  OK we are off.

       Two hours later we were departing the Forbidden City when he asked what are you going to do now. I mentioned I wanted to see the back alleys of the ancient part of Beijing…the Hutongs.  He said we should catch bus 1 and did. We got off at the fourth stop which and walked through an area of the Hutongs that was far from Ancient.  It was the 20th century version with wealthy people and underground parking for their Mercedes.  He didn’t charge me for that and we returned for a rest and some water.
          I left everything there and took the underground across the major thoroughfare to Tin’iman Square….took some photos then walked up the street to the Five Star Beijing Hotel and got a free map of Beijing with the subway map included.  So far I had yet to see either map or tourist information available anywhere.

BIG BROTHER

WILL GET YOU

        I returned to the Art Show, picked up my paintings , and piled into the crammed subway to the transfer station and on to the final subway home.  This time I decided to take a taxi to the apartment.  He dropped me off and charged me $1.60…I was infuriated…no sorry…elated.  I walked all that way this morning to save $1.60? I was mad at myself.    Not tomorrow.

       I fell right asleep my last night in Seoul but getting up to make an early flight is one of my most stressful times.  I awoke to my Screaming Meanie alarm clock as did the whole building at 5 am.  Then caught the 5:30 bus and was checked in and on the way to my gate by 7:30am.  China Southern boarded at 7:40 and arrived in Beijing around 9:30…10:30 Seoul time.
          I got through immigration really quick and was impressed with the airport but disappointed with the lack of signs, tourist information, maps and directions.  I struggled to communicate my questions with guards and guides that spoke little English.  The ATM was very friendly, though all in Chinese, I had to guess what the responses were..and felt like I won the jackpot when I guessed right.
         I bought a ticket for Beijing on the Airport Train and bought a T (travel card) from an English speaking tourist on his way out.  Got screwed out of $6.   I added more money on to the card at a kiosk then boarded the train.  It dropped me in the center of Beijing at one of the main Subway Stops. There were no maps available but one posted at the station.  I had to find John Campell’s subway stop Jis Hua Tan.  Amazingly it jumped right off the map and his subway stop was on this line. I boarded the subway and was at the stop 30 minutes early but 5 flights of stairs to get to the top where we were to meet.

           I struggled with the bags climbing my way to the first landing when I turned and there was a Chinese man doing the same…but it was no struggle for him.  He saw me stop to catch my breath and regain my strenght and stayed with me with a big smile as if to say…you can do it and I will be here to help.  We did the other four flights of stairs together and he waited patiently at each landing until I was ready to do the next.  I felt very welcomed and thought his gesture was sincere and certainly appreciated.  We bid goodbye at the top and I drank two bottles of water then sat on my bag waiting for John.  He rode his bike over from his apartment Hi Rise and we walked back while he gave me directions and landmarks along the way.

          We hit it off well and after settling into his nineteeth floor apartment, taking some photos of the view, we went for a walk in the neighborhood and stopped for lunch.  He had taken the day off to meet me.

 He ordered a lot of food and liked it spicy but got a lot of noodles and dumplings out of consideration for me.  We talked a while about his life. He worked for an airline that after 10 years you get lifetime flight benefits.    So at that time he quit and took a job teaching at a language school in Hanoi.  The school closed after two years due to lack of interest. The interest was in Chinese so when they opened in Beijing, John was there with them, teaching Chinese History.
      He gets liberal time off and vacations where he can take advantage of his flight benefits. Last month he flew back to the states to visit his children via Europe, USA then China..around the world.   He doesn’t need to own a car and rides to work on his bike and the subway.  I have to say I envy him. Who wouldn’t.  He worked for it and he is a wonderful person.
      We went out for dinner that evening and I tried a few spicier foods…and survived.   He went to bed early and was gone when I got up.  My day was planned   around Tin’imin Square and am leaving shortly to get some breakfast and sight see.

                         Korean that is. It was still raining out when David caught the Subway to the Korean War Memorial.

 You really understand why the Asians wanted the US to maintain a presence in the Pacific after you see this.  I never understood the “Forgotten” War until this.  It really was quite simple. When WWII ended China wanted influence in Korea and along with the Russians gave arms and assistance to North Korea.  I’m am not sure why  it was divided like Vietnam, Berlin, etc.  The US had a presence here after the war but pulled out in 1950 so Russia and China backed North Korea and their leader Kim II-sung, under the guise of War Games, drove tanks to the border warning  invading South Korea.  Within three days they occupied and practically destroyed Seoul.  The UN came to Korea’s aid and troops from a lot of countries…mostly the US. The forces launched an invasion to drive the North back.  Three years later they both realized the futility of this war and called a truce.  Then the DMZ became secured and with a few incidents since, they have lived like that.

  Europe saw this happen and already had compromised the occupation of Eastern Europe by Russia so they didn’t want us to pull out either.  Now all that has changed except with North Korea…they are still being a menace.

       The Memorial was a real tribute to the Korean soldiers as well as all the soldiers that fought to defend them.  There was a very special Memorial “To Those That Fought for a Country They had Never Knew to Defend a People They Never Met”  Bronze Plaques listing all the US Soldiers that died by State covered the walls of a large corridor on both sides.  There were over 28 of them.

       The building housed a beautiful Monument to all the soldiers in all the wars that fought to defend Freedom  There was a museum too that housed artifacts dating back to around 1200AD of Korean history up to the present.  A special area devoted to the Japanese occupation of Korea from 1910.  Then another explaining the sacrifices made by all the Expeditionary Forces during the Korean War.
     Most of the museums, Temples , etc are all free.  I only paid to get into the Palace…one of maybe 8 and that was for the upkeep and was very cheap.
      Departing the Museum I headed for a tourist area not far from there to look it over.

 It was mostly Chain Restaurants, and department stores so returned to my neighborhood and tried squid puffs from a street vendor and  ordered CupFood to take home.  It is like fresh stir fry done in front of you…kind a like Benihana’s and they put it into a 20 oz Squat cup to take with you.  $3.25.
     Off to have a beer with David as soon as I pack.
      We were supposed to meet at my suggested location, the Blacksmith.  I arrived early and had heard about it coming out of the subway the day it opened.  I thought it convenient for us and we could share a Pizza…which is what we did when we first met.  I got there early but realized it was an overpriced . glitzty joint that I didn’t care for and I didn’t think it was David’s kind of place.  I paid almost $8 for a crappy glass of house wine and left.  I met David coming in and we walked 10 minutes back to my area for some Chicken and Beer.

  The restaurant offered Chicken Fried, Chicken Roasted, Chicken BBQ’d, and just Chicken.  David treated me and we finally had a good chat where we could share a lot of our experiences.  It was interesting hearing about his teaching over the last 5 years in both private and public schools.  He teaches English in Elementary School and mentioned 3rd graders absorb it where as 6th graders are slower. I always thought the USA should offer language courses in 2nd or 3rd grade.  I was never offered a language until High School and signed up for French…supposed to be two years but took me four and I still didn’t learn it….at least that is what the French tell me.
      Any way we shared a lot of information and hope to see each other somewhere in this world again some time. He treated me which was over and above.  I enjoy when everyone does Dutch Treat…well I did treat him last time so I guess that is Dutch Treat..  The point was we stayed there a long time and shared a good time. I’m packed and retiring for the early morning wake up.  I booked this place when I return for my home flight.  Good Night!

       The day started late for David with a long Subway ride that took him across the river that divides Seoul and into a new area of this Mega City.

 David was going to visit a Buddhist Temple.  The map suggested Lotte a huge duty free sky rise and Tombs of 12th Century King and Queen of the Dynasty that ruled that period.  

Samseoung Subway Exit

      The Samseoung subway stop arrived and David exited with a plan to visit the Tombs first. That site was the furthest away and since his legs were still sore he thought it best to get the worst out of the way.  650 meters the map said.  A couple of football fields…no problem…wrong.  Walking along a huge through fare with huge Sky Scrapers on both sides, David couldn’t imagine a grave site in the middle of all this.  A 1/4 of a mile down the road he asked and was told keep going.  Another quarter of a mile and David realized he could have taken the subway another stop.  Finally someone directed him to turn right until the park then left.  He was getting exited in anticipation of reaching his goal and sitting down.  His legs were cramped and in pain, his pace slowed , his ankles ached with pain.  The sidewalk became rubberized and soft to walk on…a slight relief.  The lane curved around and each turn he expected to see an entrance to the Tombs.  There it was up ahead!  The gate was locked…Closed Monday.  

Rubberized Sidewalk

He walked around the corner and there was the next subway stop which he promptly entered back into the underground and returned to Samseoung Stop.  Off to the Temple which was visible on the map.  He decided to take the straight route through the Mega Duty Free center and stop to price an Ipad.  He did and really liked it.  Took down all the info with intentions of comparing when he returned to the hostel.  Time for an Ice Cream and Baskin Robbins then on to the Temple.  He was exiting the Mega Duty Free Center when he realized his coat was gone.  Did he leave it at the Ice Cream shop or in the subway….Panic… adrenaline RUSH and David RAN…yes RAN to the Ice Cream shop…his passport was in the coat!   He would have to go to the embassy to replace it.  The manager greeted him coat in hand.  David almost kissed him.  Now he was pumped full of energy and jaunted off to the Temple.  

Taken inside Baskin Robbins Ice Cream Shop

This is what I need.

         There he prayed thanks to the Buddha.  He barely managed the Lotus position after removing his shoes and taking a pillow to sit on.  He braced his back to the wall and almost looked like a Monk…almost.  The hard part was getting up off the floor.  

Buddha Watching Over David

Prayer Lanterns

          The complex was beautiful and laid out with the city surrounding it.  A diamond in the rough. While taking some pictures he ran into two visiting Monks from Chaing Mai Thailand and talked them up a bit.  They wanted to know if I was Buddhist.  Well close as any belief I will ever get…but not really.  Just couldn’t grasp the reincarnation side of it but the never Compare, Criticize , or Complain he liked.  David left after about an hour and returned home to dine at the local Korean restaurant that was recommended to him.  Soup was great and only $3.  He was in bed at 9pm and up at 6a,m in preparation for departure on Wednesday.
      He would meet David again today in his neighborhood around 6:30 pm. He started the day at Tom Tom’s Coffee with an Apple Cinnamon Bread and Latte.  Then the rain started so he returned to his room to get his umbrella and start out for the War Museum.

      Does a city have a soul.  Well David thinks it does.  Traveling to cities all over the world he discovered they have a personality, a life, a dark side, but mostly a soul  or spirit that is unique to that city.  We prefer one over another for not just what we perceive the city to be but what it really is.  Seoul is unique.  12 Million people and no trash or trash barrels on the street to deposit trash in.  Yet it remains clean and litter free. A business will dispose of their trash and people know that if they take a to go cup or order out of a business, that they are responsible to dispose of it at their home or business.  People do take trash out on the street in their neighborhood but it is bagged and recyclers come by and pick it up daily and cart it off.  I haven’t seen any city collectors or Waste Management or even a dumpster!   I’ve never seen a city like that.  Millions of people living in huge , expensive high rise apartment buildings with small affordable homes and apartments interspersed between them.  No bums begging, no one sleeping in the parks, no crime (to speak of) and in one of the largest cities in the world.  Businesses leave things out in front at night after they close rather than bring it inside and the stuff is still there when they open in the morning.

Subway Map

       Easy and cheap mass transport that puts every city that I have been in to shame.  You can’t jump in front of an on coming train to commit suicide or push someone like in the movies to murder them and make it look like an accident.  All tracks are sealed in with glass enclosures that only open where the train door is and only when the train stops. The Seoul Subway system is by far the very best of any city I have been in.=
       There are different neighborhoods with different interests.  Some cultural, some commercial (each with a specialty), nightclubs for young people open until 4 am or all night, theater districts, university areas, etc.  Each inexpensively and easily accessible by subway, or bus.

      David’s impressions of the Korean people are that that are honest, compassionate, helpful, tasteful, fashion conscious, clean and considerate.  They tend to be short and stocky. They can be blunt and to the point but not rude. When they want something they tell you. I’ve witnessed a crowded subway where a blind man was standing and as soon as a seat became available a man grabbed the blind man and guided him to the seat.  He smiled and nodded a thank you in appreciation.  I was standing next to the blind man and it never dawned on me that if he wanted to sit down he would have to grope his way around or stick his guide stick in someones face. I’ve seen people get up to give there seat to ME or when a person left they would point it out to someone standing so they could sit.  I suppose you could say this is just human nature and anyone would do that but it is a way of life that carries out into the street .  An attitude that is prevalent everywhere.  People in my neighborhood now wave to me when I walk by and pass me with a smile and a hello.  I have only been here three days.  Yes I stand almost a foot taller and am very noticeable but they make me feel at home and welcome. They appear to be in good physical shape. Probably from climbing those stairs in the subway.  

       I was going to visit another Palace today but decided to visit the Hongdae Street that David Holden, my friend from Killkenny, Ireland works on when the band he just joined three months ago plays.  I read it is part of a University area and they have a lot of art shops and boutiques that cater to young students.  I arrived and found a tourist information office so stopped in and got a area map. I was taking some photos and exploring when David and the Bass player in his group, Neil, recognized me and came up to say hi.  12 Million people and we run into each other.  The last I saw him was in Cambodia two winters ago.  We all ready had made arrangements to meet in another area later that afternoon to get together.  We chatted a bit and they walked me back to the subway.  They were going to a practice session for two hours so David and I changed our meeting time and place and bid goodbye.

     I went on to the Seoul Museum of Art.  When I arrived there was a truck unloading huge crates of art for a planned exhibition.  It was from Haarlem , Netherlands art museum..  When I went in to the front desk the man explained only one exhibit was available on the second floor as they were preparing the other spaces for new exhibit arriving.  I had my computer with me and noticed some locker to store stuff in while touring the museum and asked how much it costs to store my bag.  He immediatly took some money from the register and gave it to me for my locker.  Nice gesture!
   The one exhibit was of a Korean lady artist that traveled the world documenting her travels with her art.  There was John Ford Point in Monument Valley Arizona, the Pueblos in Santa Fe, New Orleans, the Amazon, etc.  It was very entertaining and a wonderful exhibit.  The artist had donated the art works prior to her death at 80 some years old.  I did visit the outdoor sculpture garden then went on to a church.

       I heard  singing and it was Sunday but the church seemed out of place.  It looked like an American church from a small town.  It was the oldest Methodist church in Asia dating back to 1895 and they were celebrating the Missionary that founded the church back then.  I walked on toward the subway when I noticed a public park and exercise equipment that was permanently built to last and installed for public use.  Nearby was a public restroom .  Try and find a public restroom in NYC.  This was one of many I found.  I didn’t have to look for a McDonald’s and there was no charge, it was clean and a nice facility .
     I returned to the Subway and went on to a stop I had not been yet but was close to where I was to meet David for dinner. There is one big drawback to the subway system.  There are very few if any escalators but lots of granite steps. This is a big plus for people here.  I see them running up the steps two at a time but for someone as out of shape as me, it was a struggle and many times I had to stop along the way to catch my breath.  My legs are very sore but I have to admit I feel better for it but sleep longer the next day.

      The area I was in was loaded with jewelers.  It was a diamond and gold mecca where women brought there men to choose their wedding rings.  Korea is Christian for sure.  Their are a lot of Evangelists here and weddings are performed  in mass theatrical spectacles. I have never seen so many large , huge jewelry shops in one place ever…and they were all busy!

David does wear Flip Flops

      I went to Tom Tom’s Coffee shop , got on the internet and confirmed my meeting with David.  I enjoyed a wonderful connection on my computer, caught up with my reading and got back on the subway and went to my meeting point .

         Exit 3 off Jonggok Subway stop.  I relaxed and watched the Korean world go by while taking a few pics before David showed up. We ended up in the same place he took his parents visiting from Ireland last month. He didn’t realize it until we sat down.  This was a traditional Korean BBQ place.  We have them in Phoenix…maybe two, but this was in Korea so I was primed and hungry.  We had the BBQ at the table and you cook your own with roasted garlic , Kim Chee, sliced Radish, Bean Curd dip, oil garlic marinade and a sweet marinade, Tofu in a spicy hot sauce , scrambled eggs, sticky rice, and lettuce leaves you wrap it all up in and eat it with.  Korean beer and water to wash it all down.  The last time we ate out was in Seam Reap at a place called Happy Pizza where we shared a pizza with Marijuana.  My half was. That is where we met while touring Ankor Wat in Cambodia. We shared three Korean beers.  They come in Quarts. Some people add Soju.  It is like a rice wine but potent to around 40% proof.  You add one shot to a small glass of beer. Very popular and cheap.We parted with a tentative meeting on Tuesday Happy Hour.
        David said in the five years he has been teaching  English in both Public and Private school, he has never heard of any crime other than an occasional sexual attack on women.  Things are safe 24/7 .  Young girls like to show their legs from the crotch down.  They were hot pant and mini skirts or mini dresses.  Men don’t wear short unless they are down to the knees and seldom in a Restaurant.  No one wears flip flops except in the shower. You take your shoes off when entering any home and even some businesses and always in a Temple.
          Everywhere you see men, women, young and old plugged in to a Smart Phone. They are text messaging, watching soaps or You Tube, Video calling, listening to music, etc. The phone is also used to enter the subway like a TCard or ticket…just pass it over the sensor and the transaction is recorded. You can use it and the T or Travel Card to purchase items from a vending machine or a convenience store. ATM’s issue cash or a check.  Money is used less and less.

      The Tour Group Mini Bus picked me up at the Hostel then about 8 others and the tour guide a little past 11am on the way out of the city.  The tour guide explained we would meet up at the first stop at the Unification Center with a large group of Koreans and join them on a big bus as we visited the lookout point for near the DMZ then go on to the DMZ and visit a tunnel …the third of four tunnels that was discovered in 1978…the last discovered in 1990.  It was a nice ride into the country and as we got closer we were driving along the river that shared a border with North Korea.  Barbed wire fences were along the river along with guard houses overlooking the river.  This was in case the North decided to launch an invasion from under the river or on the river.  We crossed into the DMZ area and drove to the Unification Village where we were allowed to go pee and grab a snack before boarding the big bus to the Lookout point.

One of many Guard houses

Take a Guess…umm!

Breaded and deep fried corn on the cob.

Dry your dishes and pick up a waffle.

      First we had to visit a train station that used to be part of the Trans-Siberian Railway that went all the way across Asia…in WWII it was easy access for the Japanese that occupied Korea but after the Korean war it was closed.  It anticipation of reunification, it has been rebuilt and ready to go but not in operation. We stopped at the station for a brief visit.

Our Guide but difficult to hear.

One of my friends took the Blue line. She fought off an attempted rape in the middle of the night,

All Aboard

Future starting point of the Trans Continental Railroad

     When we arrived we had been told there was a yellow line that once you crossed it you were not supposed to take pictures only behind the line. You could have your camera confiscated.  When we arrived there were ROK soldiers everywhere.  They were mingling with the crowd and have pictures taken with the children (behind the line) and they were patrolling around the area.  I walked right across the line, up to the lookout and started taking pictures.  Duh.  I didn’t even see the line…even though I walked over it.  Then our tour guide ran over and told me to stop after I had over three pictures.  I quickly ran back behind the line and continued to take pictures of the soldiers with the children.  Then I ran out front and took some more of the building before boarding the bus for the final DMZ tour of the Pavilion and the tunnel.

Notice the Yellow Line…David did Not

Illegal Photo…see anything over in North Korea?

Illegal Photo

Too busy with photo op to notice David taking Pics

      When we arrived at the DMZ tunnel area I was warned the trip into the tunnel was steep and low. You had to bend over and it was close quarters.  The trip down didn’t bother me but the though of coming up a steep incline stooped over in this heat was not worth seeing a portion of the tunnel with the rest dynamited and closed. One other Philipino lady joined me while the other took to the tunnel.  I went the the DMZ pavilion to see some of the history of the DMZ.  We had already saw a brief 7 minute movie about the war and how the DMZ came about.  The last incident was when two North Korean soldiers Axed to death two American soldiers in 1978 at the DMZ.  I never remember that.

Entrance to the climb down tunnel…there is a tourist train that takes you in but we didn’t pay for that.

Finally we heading back to Seoul to my relief.  The tour bus dropped me at a stop near the subway .  I thought they were going to return me to the hostel where they picked me up.  No problem.
         I returned back to my neighborhood. The streets were a bustle of activity yet it was fairly quiet.  Very little street traffic off the main roads.  They were crowded with rush hour traffic.  50 Million people is the Provence of Seoul and around 12 million plus in the city.  When you are entering the city, you are surrounded by huge Hi Rise apartment buildings in every direction.  I couldn’t imagine living in one but that is getting to be the norm now days.  Small town life is scarce and becoming  too costly if the town has anything to offer.  Where do the children play?

          I visited a beautiful Coffee Cafe next door to the hostel. I had a Club Sandwich with  fresh ground and brewed Ethiopian Coffee…mild , medium or strong.  Each cup is individually ground to your taste then drip brewed and served in a porcelain cup.  It was all very good. I had been presented with a menu listing all the coffee they had…very extensive…and the different ways I could have my coffee ground, brewed and served.

Cotton Candy in a Cup

Awesome Coffee Shop

       David Holden, my rock star friend had responded to my request for a visit.  He is taking me out to dinner on Sunday…tomorrow.  Tonight he was performing in another concert and has two more this coming week that he invited me to.  Unfortunately I have to view them on You Tube as I will be in China by Wednesday.  I would have staying longer if I knew it was going to be this nice.  The weather has turned from  a Typhoon to beautiful somewhat warm Sunny days.  Tomorrow I’m returning to the downtown area and exploring another Palace and a beautiful pedestrian neighborhood. Monday, a lot of Touristy things are closed.

               The information desk had only one Korean lady that spoke no English.  I tried to request the subway stop for the palace , even showing her the subway map.  She called the English speaking guide on the phone.  I heard nothing but a far off distant voice.  I pointed to the Palace in the brochure and she took the phone and explained to the other what I wanted then gave the phone back to me to hear a distant voice but no comprehension of what she was saying.  I again gave her back the phone and pointed to the Palace and then the subway map.  She talked to the lady again and then pointed to the spot on the map to go trying to explain I needed to transfer along the way.  I realized that and thanked her then left the Cultural Center (Shopping Mall) and returned to the subway.

        I made my transfer and got off at my stop and expected a bus to take me to the Palace because it was no where in sight and no signs.  I tried to board one bus and the driver shooed me away.  I got directions from a local coffee shop to proceed down the street.  I assumed to the bus stop a ways down.  When I arrived I saw nothing in the stops on the sign that indicated a palace so asked a couple of Korean gentleman that were waiting for a bus. They discussed this and checked the bus signs also until one realized the Palace I wanted was just around the corner.  Sure enough there was the ticket booth and entrance to this mammoth Palace so well hidden from the city view.

       My legs that had cramped up and stopped working had been forced into motion and I was over the intense cramps and pain in my ankles.  My mind was also on what I was seeing at this World Heritage site.  I just kept walking and taking pictures along the way.  Hours passed and I hadn’t been to the Secret Garden, the furthest point and most interesting in the complex.  I arrived but was told it was not opening until 3:30 but I could visit the Palace grounds.  Palace grounds! What was I just visiting?  Oh that was where the peons who served the head of the Dynasty…he actually lived next door.  OK I had time so bought and entrance fee and started on another walking tour…except this one was up hill and downhill and up hill.  I needed some water.  The sun was in it’s glory and it was hot.  I’d walked over 2 hours in the sun without any food since early this morning.  I downed a couple bottles of water and slowed down my pace.  I completed the tour a half hour before the Secret Garden opened so went to the “snack bar” and had a Green Tea Ice Cream and another bottle of water before returning to buy another admittance ticket for the Secret Garden.  The first admittance was $1…second $2 and for the Garden was $5.  This was a guided tour in English with about 20 people.  The first couple I met was from Uzbekistan. Another couple from Korea that had been to Flagstaff and Sedona but .not the Grand Canyon?  This hike was an hour and a half up and down hill.  I skipped the last part and choose to wait for them to return rather than see the last site.  Too much of a climb and my legs were sore…as well as my feet.  I did feel good about my accomplishment.

      I left the compound and took a break on a park bench when the couple from Korea shouted “Come on Move it!  I jumped up and joined them on the way to the Subway.  They were entertaining a business man from Atlanta named Bill Bronson who had been in Seoul for 3 weeks and travels frequently to China as well.  He was a very polished , well off, intelligent, successful business person who was also very friendly and we hit it off.  I told him about my trip to North Korea and Beijing.  He was telling me about Beijing and I mentioned I heard you almost have to wear a Spacesuit in order to go there and survive.  I had hoped to take a train out of Beijing and go somewhere for a couple days before having to return to the US.  He highly recommended a city where the Beijinger’s go for the same reason.  He said I would be the only Westerner there and would love it.  It was on the way to Shanghai.  This is exactly what I had hoped for so made a note of it and will try and go there.  I ducked into the coffee shop just before the subway to thank the man who assisted me with his directions by purchasing a cup of coffee at his shop that only sat 4 people but was top of the line.  He just closed and was cashing out the register.  My luck.  I was hoping to try his coffee.  Seoul has the BEST COFFEE SHOPS ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD.  That is coming from one that has five different coffee makers at home and uses them all.  I have never seen a city with such outstanding coffee.
       I got on the subway and returned to my neighborhood.  When I got off the subway it was around 6 pm and crowded in the streets.  A bukster handed me a card for a restaurant called the Blacksmith Pizza. I was hungry so decided to go look at the menu.  It was on the second floor in a building next door.  I thought it more than I wanted so was leaving when I notice a sign for Texas Holdem that was on the 5th floor.  I decided to investigate and walked in to a game room like none other .  It was Checker’s , Backgammon,  Chess, Chinese Checkers, etc …all at tables with young couples playing serious table games like we did in the fifties.  I asked the manager and he said Texas Holdem was the name of the place because it was a popular game but they had no gambling or Texas Holdem…only real games where people came to spend an evening.  Wow.

          I went back  home and booked a tour of the DMZ for the next day.  It was my intention to also visit Panmunjom also but I needed a three day notice to clear security.  He asked if I could go on Wednesday as it was now Friday and the weekend was not possible to get security clearance.  Monday they were closed and Tuesday was already booked.  I settled for the half day DMZ only tour.

     The restaurant next door was celebrating it’s opening that night.  A Roast Chicken BBQ place that appeared to be packed.  I decided to go and sat down only to be told it was an hour wait due to the crowds.  I when to the BBQ Chicken Maru just  down the street.  It was busy also.  It looked like a fast food joint that served beer.  I sat down and looked over the menu.  Chicken, Chicken and Chicken. Nothing else.  They had maybe three side dishes but the entrees were only Chicken…just like the place I just left.  So I ordered Chicken…and Beer.  The waiter , there was only one for the entire 65 seat dining room, brought a beer with a dish of mustard and what looked like sugar cubes but were spongy.  Every table has a button glued on it to press for service.  I noticed the same thing at the last restaurant also.   I didn’t know if it was like a beeper or a light or what but after a while I decide to press it.  It made a noise like a ring tone but not loud or not offensive…hardly noticeable but in 2 seconds the only waiter was at my table.  I asked it I was supposed to eat those sugar cubes or mix them with the mustard or what?  He explained the mustard was for the chicken (something new) and the sugar cubes were pickled radish squares to nibble on with my beer.
       Well it turned out they were great. Soon the waiter brought me a plate full of Chicken.  A bit spicy and Roasted over a grill.  Mostly small pieces of Wings and Legs.  It was getting messy until I noticed he brought me two forks.  I looked around to see people were forking the chicken and biting the meat off while on the fork or pulling the pieces apart with two forks but no one was eating with their fingers …except me.
      I finished and pressed the button again.  It was kind of fun to see this waiter just pop up in 2 seconds.  Oh I just wanted my bill…pay at the cashier.  He has the bill…I deliver the order.  Very efficient actually,  I paid about $15 for two beers and a plate of chicken.
       I decided to stop for coffee on the way home.  I ordered a Latte and the girl handed me a buzzer like you get when there is a long line at Applebee’s and your waiting for a table. Then one second later it was vibrating so I turned it in and took my coffee.  I was the only person in the place.  When I went to Dunkin Donuts my first breakfast in Seoul it was the same thing…and I was the only person in the place then.  Strange but thoughtful…like the button on the table. DMZ tomorrow.

      Wow what a send off.  Everything had been accounted for.  David reflected that he has done this so many times that he had it perfected.  Then Steve, his ride never showed.  It seemed like a long wait so David asked a passerby what time it was.  He panicked when he discovered it was 6:15am….fifteen minutes late.  He left his bag on the sidewalk and ran up to the 5th floor , turned his phone back on and called but only got a message service.  He locked everything up and returned to the street, took his bag to the gate and requested the gate keeper to call a taxi.  They said 20 minutes before they could get someone.  He ordered the taxi and ran out to the Street entrance to meet the ride when he spotted a taxi pull up to the light.  He hailed in, crossed the street and off they went.  He was not the one David had called but said it was the first time  he was ever hailed in Phoenix.

       David requested  United Air terminal but when arriving he realized it was a UA flight but on US Air so had to circle around to another terminal. This is not going well.  He checked his bag and got his boarding pass and ran up to security. but couldn’t find his passport.  Thinking it was back at the  ticket counter, he started back when someone handed him his passport he found on the floor.  Going through the x ray he tripped the alarm, took off his Med Alert necklace and tripped it again,  Took off his belt and tripped it again…then the TSA person told him to remove his shoses and he got through.  Finally on the plane with one bag checked for Seoul.   Hope his connecting flight goes better.
        It did.  He had to take a transfer bus to a different terminal but US Air had the bus waiting and a staff directing you.  I arrived in time to get a cup of coffee to take on with me while we waited for 300 plus passengers to board this monster.  I was in a window seat looking out at the wing in seat 42K with a petite Korean lady next to me and a man in the aisle seat.  I slept a little but didn’t want to ruin my Jet lag plan.  The plane departed Wednesday at 11 am from San Francisco and flew 10 hours through 6 or 7 time zones and crossed the international dateline.  I arrived at 9pm San Francisco time but was 3pm Korean time but it was Thursday not Wednesday.  I was planning on staying up then get a good nights rest and the next day I would be normal.

            I read a lot then the plane landed, immigration and customs no problem so now I needed money.  Taking both ATM cards to the machine and both were rejected….another machine and then another.  I took the Euros I purchased in Scottsdale  for my North Korea tour and cashed them for Won.  I needed to pay the hostel in cash and had to have money for food and transport.  I found the bus, paid and arrived at my destination.  I wanted to get rid of the suitcase and then find a bank.  I paid for the room and only had 20000 Won left…around $20.  I bought a coffee for 5000 Won got on the internet in my room and called Merrill Lynch and complained about my credit card not working in the ATM.  She said it wasn’t a Debit card and next month none of my charges count for Frequent Flyer miles. I explained I had called before I left so this wouldn’t happen and no one said my Credit/Debit card was now only a Credit card and not tied in to Merrill Lynch Brokerage only Bank of America. Now I need to call E-Trade and find out why that didn’t work.  The gentleman said it should so I went out to try it again but by this time, the ATM was behind locked doors.  I went down the street to another but it was all in Korean and no English so I decided to wait until tomorrow.  Wish me luck.

          What a difference a day makes.  Got up early but the bank was closed so stopped at Dunkin Donuts and used my Credit Card to charge breakfast…coffee, a heart stopping Creme and Jelly filled donut, bottled juice and a bagel with processed cheese, ham and egg.  Needless to say, I tried to take a walk down to the subway but legs cramped and ankles pained so I returned to the room and went back to sleep.  I awoke at 11am and visited the same bank again…bingo…it was my choice of withdrawals.  Bank machines don’t alway recognize brokerage houses so if you withdraw from Credit Card or Savings…Nada…but Checking accounts are recognized and I did get money.  I deposited 30000 Won…about $30 on my T-Card for travel around Seoul…then jumped on the subway and used it to go to a Cultural Center stop.  It turned out to be a Shopping Mall but had a tourist information office…so I strolled in to get directions to one of the ancient palaces that was a World Heritage site.